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	goldfish temp
nboschwilson Hobbyist Posts: 142 Kudos: 174 Votes: 0 Registered: 30-Oct-2003	I was wondering what temperature fancy goldfish (black moors, orandas, fantails, etc) do best at. I have heard some debate on this issue and was wondering what some other people thought. Thanks<br>
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00
littlemousling Conchiform Posts: 5230 Registered: 23-Aug-2003	Somewhere around 68-72 is safest; they can't take the extremes that long-bodied goldfish can very well, but they're still coolwater fish. -Molly Visit shelldwellers.com!
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00
MegTheFish Banned Posts: 167 Votes: 1 Registered: 03-Aug-2004	I have fancy bodied goldfish and the temp as been as low as 65 and as high as 70 and they don't seem to mind.
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00
littlemousling Conchiform Posts: 5230 Registered: 23-Aug-2003	70 isn't high for them . By extremes I really meant below freezing (under ice with a hole for oxygen) or above 90 - that is, the temperatures that comets don't have a big problem with but fancies can't take. Fancies can still handle a very wide range of temperatures - I accidentally left a Ryukin in my pond through last winter and he came through - but the usual best temperatures are in about the 68-72 range. -Molly Visit shelldwellers.com!
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00
bharatk Hobbyist Posts: 57 Kudos: 43 Votes: 3 Registered: 04-Oct-2004	last week I had ick in my tank so kept the temp 82 F. But the goldy was just fine and even recovered completely from ick. I keep the temp between 78-80 F. If I dont swith on the heater, the tank temp will never go below 24 C through out the year.
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00
Cory_Di Ultimate Fish Guru Posts: 7953 Kudos: 2917 Votes: 25 Registered: 19-Dec-2002	Here it is from the experts themselves, Dr. Erik Johnson, DVM (Koivet) and Richard E. Hess, in their book, *Fancy Goldfish: The temperature at which we should house our Goldfish collections is the subject of debate. While it's true that Goldfish of most varieties are extremely adaptable to a wide range of temperatures, there is considerable evidence that Goldfish do best in the mid to high seventies. This temperature range has several clear advantages. Now, without going on to type verbatim, several more paragraphs, the three things they discuss are: 1) Water warmer than that mentioned does not carries far less oxygen. 2) Temps in the stated range are optimal for nitrifying bacteria. Colder temps hinder efficiency of the bio-filter. 3) Stated temp range ensures proper fish metabolism and normal activity without unduly increasing their oxygen demand. While I have known about this, my 36 gallon tank has no heater and is stable around 72F. I have not experienced any problems with my bio-filter, but I only have 2 fancy goldfish that are approximately 3.5 inches each in there ATM. They will eventually be moved to 90 gallon or larger. Incidentally, the goldfish book I quoted from, is the best I've seen thus far: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0834804484/qid=1102934934/sr=8-1/ref=pd_csp_1/104-4040500-7455920?v=glance&s=books&n=507846 Last edited by Cory_Di at 13-Dec-2004 04:50*
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00
GandB Enthusiast Posts: 207 Kudos: 592 Votes: 68 Registered: 09-Dec-2003	I agree Cori-D, my Fantails are kept between 72-74 degrees. I have noticed a decline in activity at temperatures around 65 degrees. I may have to get that book. -Keith http://www.ozarkgames.com
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00
Cory_Di Ultimate Fish Guru Posts: 7953 Kudos: 2917 Votes: 25 Registered: 19-Dec-2002	It is the absolute finest of golfish books, and actually, one of the best allaround fish books because much of it applies to general fish keeping. I bought this book before setting up my goldie tank and followed many of the suggestions. For example, many who keep goldies eventually have to deal with "rockitis" because goldies love to sift through gravel and spit it out. Sooner or later, a rock gets lodged in it's throat. They tell you how to deal with it, but more importantly, how to prevent it. As a result, I used a single layer of roughly 1/2 inch pebbles (12.5mm). Too big to get into the average goldies mouth. The single to 1.5 layers are necessary to prevent buildup of nasties that get easily trapped. It's not nearly as attractive as other substrates, but safer over the long haul. It covers illness, treatments, breeding, types of goldies and is loaded with pics. A terrific value for the low price. It's also coauthored by two leading authorities: Dr. Erik Johnson (aka Koivet) and Richard Hess. Excuse my disorganized tank . I pull those fake plants out about every 6 weeks and gravel vac really good in between the weekly water changes/gravel vacs. Cory_Di attached this image: Last edited by Cory_Di at 18-Dec-2004 11:14[/font]
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00
littlemousling Conchiform Posts: 5230 Registered: 23-Aug-2003	The problem I have with the big gravel advice is that eventually, the goldfish is quite big enough to get big gravel lodged in its throat. If you start with small gravel, you can keep plants, and the goldfish is very quickly out of the stage where that could pose any kind of problem. But big gravel works for a while, anyway. -Molly Visit shelldwellers.com!
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00
GandB Enthusiast Posts: 207 Kudos: 592 Votes: 68 Registered: 09-Dec-2003	I use the smaller gravel because I heard the same thing(as we all know that goldies like to 'clean' the gravel), and didn't want to be fishing gravel out of George's throat. -Keith http://www.ozarkgames.com
Posted 26-Jan-2006 12:00


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