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vaag![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fingerling Posts: 44 Kudos: 15 Votes: 4 Registered: 22-Sep-2003 ![]() | Recently I've noticed an increase in algae in my tank. What fish could I add that would help take care of that? Or is there anything else I could put in there to help get rid of the algae. I have a 29 gallon currently with 6 rainbows and 6 cories. Planning on getting a few more rainbows. I am planning on changing all my rocks on the bottom soon. (Not sure if new rocks would make a difference, but just want new ones...anyway) thanks!! ![]() |
Calilasseia![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() *Ultimate Fish Guru* Panda Funster Posts: 5496 Kudos: 2828 Votes: 731 Registered: 10-Feb-2003 ![]() | Try Otocinclus. Excellent small sized algae eaters that will coexist happily with your existing stock. Get a team of 4 or so and turn them loose on your algae. You'll need to read this article to get the best from your Otocinclus. Enjoy! |
keithgh![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() *Ultimate Fish Guru* Posts: 6371 Kudos: 6918 Votes: 1542 Registered: 26-Apr-2003 ![]() | vaag Otos will certainly eat the algea. There are many types of algea, a desc You also want to establish what is causing the algea, it could be the water, lighting, even a feeding problem. You must prevent the algea otherwise the problem will get a far greater problem and that is some thing you will not want. Keith ![]() ![]() Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do. I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT? VOTE NOW ![]() VOTE NOW ![]() |
tankie![]() Fish Addict Posts: 857 Kudos: 848 Votes: 230 Registered: 15-Mar-2005 ![]() | ottos for brown...just bought mine when i cant really get rid of the algae in my tank....in just 12 hr period... almost all of the algae r gone.... |
vaag![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fingerling Posts: 44 Kudos: 15 Votes: 4 Registered: 22-Sep-2003 ![]() | Thanks for the help!! Keith... the algae is orangish. It is on some of the large rocks and the lighthouse that is in the tank. There was some on the sides of the tank, but i scraped it off using the algae scaper. It hasn't come back or at least very little. What can cause algae? If it is going away should I still get otos or should I wait a little and see what happens with it? We had some problems with the tank a while ago (LONG story) but now that we are doing water changes weekly things seem to be getting better. |
keithgh![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() *Ultimate Fish Guru* Posts: 6371 Kudos: 6918 Votes: 1542 Registered: 26-Apr-2003 ![]() | vaag Some interesting points I just read. It can be caused by exclusive use of Grolux lighting, heavily poluted water, even too much frozen food, and overfeeding. It can also be imported into a tank via plants. As you can see there are many reasons for algea to form. I would let the tank settle first then possibly get 2-3 Otos to keep it under control. Keith ![]() ![]() Last edited by keithgh at 29-May-2005 01:11 Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do. I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT? VOTE NOW ![]() VOTE NOW ![]() |
Calilasseia![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() *Ultimate Fish Guru* Panda Funster Posts: 5496 Kudos: 2828 Votes: 731 Registered: 10-Feb-2003 ![]() | As well as checking nitrate levels, it's advisable to check phosphates as well. If you have an excess of phosphates in the water, an algal bloom will almost certainly result. Marine aquarists now go to the extent of using anti-phosphate resins such as RowaPhos to keep phosphate levels down in reef aquaria to stop nuisance algae destroying expensive corals, which they will do quickly if they get a foothold. I suspect it won't be long before phosphate management becomes a regular part of freshwater fishkeeping too. By the way, you say your algal growth is orange??? I'd send a sample to a biology lab and get the organism identified conclusively, because I've never seen an orange alga in even the worst mismanaged FW tank. I can't even recall hearing of one in SW. Red algae, yes, but orange??? This puzzles me, and for the time being, also worries me a bit. I'd seek professional help with this one just to make sure ... |
vaag![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fingerling Posts: 44 Kudos: 15 Votes: 4 Registered: 22-Sep-2003 ![]() | Well it is orangish/brown. I check water for nitrates. How can I test for phosphates? Will LFS do that for me? Thanks for all your help!!! If it isn't algae what else could it be that is orangish/brown? |
fishguy![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Enthusiast Posts: 152 Kudos: 189 Votes: 8 Registered: 01-May-2004 ![]() | There are phosphate testing kits are easily available. Your LFS should prolly have them. You test them the same way you would for nitrates, ammonia exc. If you are using tap water you probably do have phosphates. I would recommend getting RO if you can, but if thats not available get distilled. If in fact you do have phosphates you should do a water change using distilled or RO. PS: You could also try a UV sterilizer. |
sham![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Ultimate Fish Guru Posts: 3369 Kudos: 2782 Votes: 98 Registered: 21-Apr-2004 ![]() | It's brown algae that has been somewhat dyed or color changed probably by water conditioners. If I use certain water conditioners like stress coat it turns my brown algae orange. I thought maybe it was because my tapwater is high in iron. It gets a similar color to the rust water that comes out of the barn faucet. Brown algae is usually not a cause of things like overfeeding or light but comes from your tap water conditions such as high phosphates or silicates. It likes hard water and mostly occurs in low light because in higher light the green algaes take over and out compete the brown. Most fish will eat brown algae and otos just love the stuff. Sometimes it will go away on it's own after a tank has been setup for several months. |
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