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  L# Algea Question
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SubscribeAlgea Question
Posts: 108
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Registered: 16-Jul-2004
male usa
What is the difference between green and brown algea, if there is any?
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:53Profile PM Edit Report 
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male usa us-virginia
The color between the two types of algae, perhaps?

Brown algae is typically found in new tanks, and is pretty common in all kinds of setups. I can't speak for saltwater, but most freshwater tanks have had brown algae at some time or another.

Green algae can come in many forms, from suspended, to stringy, to annoying green spot algae. Green algae seems to be harder to take care of than brown algae, and more of a nuisance.

And when he gets to Heaven, to Saint Peter he will tell: "One more Marine reporting, Sir! I've served my time in Hell."
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:53Profile MSN PM Edit Delete Report 
*Ultimate Fish Guru*
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male malta
I taught that the difference is too much light or few light. I don't know, but i heared this somewhere.
Member of the Malta Aquarist Society - 1970.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:53Profile MSN PM Edit Delete Report 
Communications Specialist
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Brown algae = diatoms

Diatoms start off sparse, but have a good habit of spreading through the tank pretty rapidly.

While it is common in most new tanks, the cause is excess nutrients and silicates. These can get into your water from some tap waters, some rocks, and foods. I've also found that increasing the lighting helps SOME, but the root of the algae is the nutrients. A high quality food and regular maintainance is your ultimate weapon against this stuff.

Green algae is going to happen, like it or not. I feel it's a sign of a healthy aquarium. Most algae eating fish will much on it, but some manual removal will be inevitable. It's one of several kinds of algaes, and will be present wehre there is nutrients and light. To control it, watch your feeding and limit your lighting photoperiod to 8-10 hours a day. Too much algae can cause serious problems in your tank, so don't get it get out of control. A lot of fish will pick at the algae, and it's useful in their diet. Fish like mollies will happily munch it from the back of the tank, so be sure to leave it untouched

Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:53Profile Homepage ICQ AIM MSN Yahoo PM Edit Delete Report 
Small Fry
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female usa us-mississippi
I know this is a very old post but quite helpful. I suspect that my tank is too healthy on that respect. Too much for my algae eater even. I need to do a manual clean from the looks of it. Is it possible that it might be causing my pH levels to drop also? I used to have about 8 cichlids to this 20 gal tank and now there are 4 and one is showing signs of dropsy. One of the others that died had hole-in-the-head disease. I am pretty sure that it is overall poor water quality. It has been a long time since I have done a much needed water change.
Post InfoPosted 05-Oct-2009 12:00Profile ICQ AIM MSN Yahoo PM Edit Delete Report 
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female usa
More info is needed before someone can help you.

What is your Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and PH levels?

What kind of filter do you have? Heater? Is your tank a 20L or 20H?

Please provide this info before someone with more experience (NOT me) can assist you with your question.
Post InfoPosted 06-Oct-2009 03:34Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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male usa us-colorado
EditedEdited 07-Oct-2009 14:28
As a 6 year member it might be a safe assumption that
your tank has been up and running for quite some time.

The first thing that comes to mind is Old Tank Syndrome.
Commonly called OTS, it results from a marriage of poor
water quality, resulting in build up of organic waste,
a drop in pH, and the build up of Nitrate.

Hole in the Head disease is most prevalent in tanks with
very high nitrate levels (generally over 100).
Dropsy is also another disease that can occur in "Old"
water (a high nitrate reading).

One has to be reminded that a tank is a living creature.
Unless you are maintaining a true Natural Aquarium, espoused
by Diana Walstad in her Ecology of the Planted Aquarium,
the water must be changed, preferably on a weekly basis,
and at the same time the gravel must be cleaned. Today,
we use a device similar to the Python Siphon for gravel
cleaning. Mentally divide the non-planted parts of the
tank into 4 sections, and with each weekly water change
vacuum a different section. That way, within a month
the entire gravel bed will be cleaned, the water quality
maintained, and the nitrate levels will stay down in a
zero to 20 level.

In most of our tanks, we must do water changes, they are
our way of duplicating nature (floods, rain showers,etc.).
That way we can approach duplicating nature.


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 07-Oct-2009 14:26Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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