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TW![]() ![]() Fish Master * * *Fish Slave* * * Posts: 1947 Kudos: 278 Votes: 338 Registered: 14-Jan-2006 ![]() | This question may be lengthy (sorry), but I’m not sure what is best procedure. I have a 75 litre tank, entering it's 2nd week since setup. Not long after setup, I regretted size & shape of my tank & longed for a bigger & particularly longer (current tank is taller than it is long). So I have a 155 litre on order - should be here soon. Plan is to tfr the old water & plants across to the new tank & I’d like to help the recycle period along. My old tank is being traded in so, unless my tank is fishless, I won’t have the luxury of a leisurely approach to the new setup. I don’t think I can transfer the old filter to the new tank, as both tanks are the type where it was a package deal, with biological wet/dry filters & lights built into the hood. Both filters have spray bar (different length for each tank) dripping the returning water over 3 la Thanks, Robyn ![]() Cheers TW |
SheKoi![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fish Addict Posts: 667 Kudos: 553 Votes: 4 Registered: 11-Feb-2004 ![]() | congrtats on new tank - trust me it will not be long before you want a bigger one - i started with a 10g now in process of setting up a 72g. anyway - i would try and transfer as much of the filter material as you can, with some of the new material, plus if your removing the gravel add some of it into the filter as it will aid the bacterial growth in the filter - don't bother with the carban, only use it to remove and medication used - it absorbs chemicals but after a while it will begin to lose them back into the water. i would take to gold gourami back they can grow large and he probably want like the cycle process. with old water add it to new tank then fill rest up with water that has been treated to remove clorine and it about same temperature. Bacteria don't really live in the water they will be attached to rocks plants, sides of tank. so need to get filter going really quick if have moved material over. platies are a good fish to start with, i'd get 2 after the tank has been running on it's own for at least 1-2 weeks just keep checking the water for ammonia, nitrate levels etc. if want to grow plants try flourite or eco complete they are substrates made for plants they hold loads of nutients for them. some eco completes come already cycled containing bacteria which might help - i've never really believed the bacteria can survive months in a bag, but what do i know. anymore questions just ask shekoi Last edited by shekoi at 17-Jan-2006 07:34 www.blooming-brilliant.co.uk |
LITTLE_FISH![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ***** Little Fish ***** Master of Something Posts: 7303 Kudos: 1997 Votes: 670 Registered: 20-May-2005 ![]() | Robyn, I read here a few times that one way of getting the gravel from an established tank to help in a new tank is by placing it in a stocking and resting it on the substrate. Then, after a few weeks, you simply remove the stocking. This way none of your “old” gravel and new one will get mixed up. The problem here is that your “old” gravle is not really old – like two weeks – and as such it is doubtful that bacteria in sufficient numbers have settled on it already. I don’t think it would harm, but it might not help either. Your sole fish is a gold gouramy, that, if I am not mistaken, is a color variation of the blue gouramy. This fish can be even 6 inches long, at least that is what I read in a magazine this morning, so way bigger than 8cm. If you don’t like to keep the fish then now would be the time to return it and then you would have no problem with starting the new tank, right? Let’s hear some more opinions on the gold gouramy though before concluding that what I say is right. Oh, they are supposed to be hardy and good cycling fish, that is what my LFS says. I would in any case fill the new tank all the way and run the equipment. Although I cannot give you the time it would take for all the bacteria to die in a “stale” tank, it is way less than a day. Platies are cool, but will breed like mad. Given that you have plants, aka hiding spots, even if you don’t care for the fry they will survive and within a rather short time you will have to worry about what to do with the ever growing population (and I am right at this point in my 29G). You asked if 3 males by themselves (other thread) would be fine and I don’t know, sorry. Building up the fish load slowly is a good idea, no need to rush anyway .Hope this helps a little, Ingo |
TW![]() ![]() Fish Master * * *Fish Slave* * * Posts: 1947 Kudos: 278 Votes: 338 Registered: 14-Jan-2006 ![]() | Thanks Shekoi & Ingo Thanks for reminding me re my query on 3 platy males from the other thread Ingo - I forgot to ask that. I'd prefer not have fry - at least for a while, so does anyone know if platy will be happy in an all male shoal. Starting with 3 & buiding to 5 or six?thanks, Robyn ![]() Cheers TW |
FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() | Hi Robyn, Congratulations on the Premium membership, and getting the hang of starting new threads. The earlier answers will take care of the shifting tanks. As far as the substrate is concerned, I can provide some more reading for you. For the depth, how much to purchase, this will help: http://www.plantedtank.net/substratecalculator.html For the type of substrate material, this is a pretty good article. In the end, the choice is, of course, yours: http://home.infinet.net/teban/substrat.htm#peat Generally speaking it is a good idea to use a substrate that will contribute something to the well being of the plants besides being something that they can anchor in. Regular aquarium gravel, and sands, are basically just quartz (SiO2) and are inert. They furnish a bed of "stuff" for the plants to grow roots into and anchor. The other substrates such as Fluorite, Laterite, Eco Complete, etc, all provide nutrients for the plants over a long period of time. The most common nutrient that they furnish is iron (Fe). Some "last" longer than others. Amano uses a substrate that he discards after the show life of each tank. I prefer to use Fluorite. Others use a clay called Laterite, and place a la the tank, and then "cap" it with a la or gravel. Welcome and I hope this helps... Frank ![]() Last edited by FRANK at 17-Jan-2006 09:51 -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
TW![]() ![]() Fish Master * * *Fish Slave* * * Posts: 1947 Kudos: 278 Votes: 338 Registered: 14-Jan-2006 ![]() | Thanks everyone – you’ve helped a lot. Will put a little gavel in the filter, as you suggest shekoi. My old tank / filter didn’t come with instructions & (pardon my complete ignorance) when you say “don't bother with the carbon” – which part of the filter is the carbon. Is that the black sponge (that sits on the ceramic noodles” or is it the white fluff contained in a small fr Thanks, RobynCheers TW |
LITTLE_FISH![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ***** Little Fish ***** Master of Something Posts: 7303 Kudos: 1997 Votes: 670 Registered: 20-May-2005 ![]() | Robyn, I know nothing about Australian sources, sorry ![]() But about your filter media, without ever having had this specific type (I use AquaClear filters on my small tanks): The white fluffy thing is a mechanical filter. It simply traps debris The noodles is a biological filter that serves as a host (large surface are in all the noodles) for beneficial bacteria And the black stuff is a chemical filter, Activated Carbon. It binds things in the water until it gets clogged up and needs to be replaced. So far so good? Ingo |
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