FishProfiles.com Message Forums

hi everyone.

as you may or may not know i've been having an agale issue with my 55g tank thats newly setup.

originally i had the tank in direct sunlight so i emptied it and moved it, i had a light on the tank thats 30W 15K

after the move.. it started up again, so as advised on the forums i got myself a aquaone CF700 Cannister filter to help my 800L HOB. i thought that would fix it...

nope, a week after i added that cannister and did a water change i put a make shift backing on the tank to stop light reflection... this hasn't helped much. so i went out and got myself a normal fluro tube.. 30W but 6-7K i think.. just got it from the hardware store.

i knocked my lighting down to 8 hours a day if that. and i'l still having issues. now that i have eliminated all my equipment as the cause i have to look at other thing.

i REALLY want to plant it. but i have silver dollars in the tank and they'll go nuts for the plants. making it a waste of money.

i dont thnk its the water as i'm running 3 other tanks and they dont have this issue. i have a 3 fter in my room thats crystal clear! it only has a couple rocks in it and a paradise fish. sould my silver dollars live in that tank happily? it also has a coral sandy substrate?

ammonina in the tank is 0
nitrate is 12.5 and the nitrite is 0
the nitrate in my tap water is 12.5

heres here i'm at:
[link=http://
www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/Water%20Quality/58304.html?200504182002]http://
www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/Water%20Quality/58304.html?200504182002[/link]

i'm really running out of ideas. i know its not harming the fish. but it is hardming the visula spectical..

Algae eater? bristlenose pleco?

i have an oto in the tank.

i still can't understand how my 3fter can be crystal clear and my 4 fter is having all these issues..

it's very frustrating.

I could be wrong, but one tiny otto in a tank that size wouldn't be able to keep up, I should think.

Ottos also like to be kept in schools, I'm told. Maybe get a whole whack more ottos?

really?

they are poo machines yeah?

if i can afford it i might get a few BN catfish.

anyways its the water thats green, from my understanding otos can;t do anything about that

if the water is green u could try giving it a week of darkness.. dont turn the light on for the whole week and keep the tank coverd with a cloth during the day.. during this do some waterchanges to reduce it coming back.. without light it will give it less chance of growing back while replacing with new water..

r0b3y


Last edited by r0b3y at 19-Apr-2005 01:04

tried that already mate.
i did it over 3 days.

it cleared it a little but it wasn;t long before it came back

i have this algae treatment but i dont wanna use it cause it might kill my fish.

stuquarium

Try and do a bit of problem solving, the answer is there and it is posible a very simple problem

Write all this down as you do it.
Start of by testing the tap water.

All this must be done with each tank.

The type of lights used, and how old they are
Time lights on and off also at what times.
The amount of natural light in each area.
Tank temperature.
Room temp Min and Max
Species of fish and how many
Types of food used.
Aquacape of each tank. plants, DW type, substrate, any other bit & pieces
Distance light is from top of water.
Distance light is to bottom of tank.

There is possibly more than I have listed here.
I think you will only solve the problem by analizing all the tanks and compare it to the problem tank.

Please let me know how you go.
You can ring me any night after 6.30pm
Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

try putting plants in to compete with the algae for food, although algae in a new tank is commonplace, maybe also try reducing the food and check for phosphates

thanks keith. i'll email you the stats. so you can think about it.. i'll be out from 7 to 9.
cheers

for all those curious heres the stats

The type of lights used, and how old they are

Lights on 3ft .. 15W biolux
Lights on 4 ft 30w NEC

Time lights on and off also at what times.

5pm-11pm every night. All tanks

The amount of natural light in each area.

3ft. – 10% natural light.
4ft – 40% natural light. Tank in corner at other end of room from windows

Tank temperature.

3ft 79F
4ft 81F

Room temp Min and Max

Anywhere from 11- 30+C it is Melbourne after all. – both rooms.

Species of fish and how many

3ft – 1 x paradise.

4ft –
2x Silver Dollars
2 x Green Sevrum (1 juve)
3 x Molly
2 x Platy
3 x keyhole cichlid
1x kribnesis
1x oto
1 x flame gourami
2 x red eye tetra

Types of food used.

Tetra Color topical flakes
TetraMin tropical flakes the rich mix
Frozen beef heart
Green peas.



Aquacape of each tank. plants, DW type, substrate, any other bit & pieces

3ft –
coral sand substrate and a few small rocks.

4ft –
brown gravel substrate
plant pot broken into pieces
fake wood long
fake plant
a couple of small rocks all used in 3 fter without problems

Distance light is from top of water.

3ft - 4 cms
4ft – 6 cmx

Distance light is to bottom of tank.

3ft – 45cms
4ft – 48cms

There is possibly more than I have listed here.
I think you will only solve the problem by analizing all the tanks and compare it to the problem tank.

Please let me know how you go.

Here ya go!! ??

What can you make of it ?

Stuart

I got the e/m and sent a reply with some concerns.
Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

received and replied

any one have any opinions on this?

Stuart and I talked for some time on chat Wed afternoon.
This is where Chat is at its best.

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW