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Hey how much difference is there in Seachem Stress Guard and Seachem Stability? They both state they promote slime coat to reduce stress and helpful bacteria for the tank. I know it's got to be something obvious that I'm missing.

TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now
Kelly ;o}

Hi,

Stess Guard:
http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/StressGuard.html

StressGuard™ is the premium slime coat protection product. StressGuard™ will reduce stress and ammonia toxicity whenever handling or transporting fish. StressGuard™ binds to exposed protein in wounds to promote healing of injured fish and to reduce the likelihood of primary and secondary infections. StressGuard™ is compatible with all medications except those that are copper based. StressGuard™ is not amine based and will not interfere with Purigen™ or HyperSorb™ regeneration. StressGuard™ does not coat resins or clog filtration like competing “slime coat” type products can.

Stability:

[link]
http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Stability.html[/link]

Stability™ will rapidly and safely establish the aquarium biofilter in freshwater and marine systems, thereby preventing the #1 cause of fish death: "new tank syndrome". Stability™ is formulated specifically for the aquarium and contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria which facilitate the breakdown of waste organics, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Unlike competing products, the bacteria employed by Stability™ are non-sulfur fixing and will not produce toxic hydrogen sulfide. Stability™ is completely harmless to all aquatic organisms as well as aquatic plants, thus there is no danger of over use. Stability™ is the culmination of nearly a decade of research and development and represents the current state of the art in natural biological management.

One (Stress Guard) builds up (fortifies) the mucus
coating on fish while the other (Stability) jump starts
the Nitrogen Cycle in your tank.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Thanks, I was having a brain fart. Couldn't make a connection somewhere.

TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now
Kelly ;o}

I have been using Stability for a few years now, I use the recommended dosage at every water change on both tanks. When I do the monthly Eheim Pro11 cleaning I double dose then. One thing Seachem told me is that Stability keeps the good bacteria in excellent health and by doing that you will have far less problems.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

Okay, now what about Seachem "Prime" and "Clarity"? Has anyone used that? What's the difference between Prime and Stability? I know I'm asking a lot but after the cloudiness from the last change and I'm running low on API Stress Zyme +. The cloudiness has gone away but I want to do aleast one more DEEP gravel vac before the month is out. I hadn't realized how much crud was in the under layers between plants. And I still have more trimming to do.

TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now
Kelly ;o}

SEACHEM

All this information was obtained from Seachem

Prime™
is the complete and concentrated conditioner for both fresh and salt water. Prime™ removes chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Prime™ converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form that is readily removed by the tank’s biofilter. Prime™ may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Prime™ detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them. It will also detoxify any heavy metals found in the tap water at typical concentration levels. Prime™ also promotes the production and regeneration of the natural slime coat. Prime™ is non-acidic and will not impact pH. Prime™ will not overactivate skimmers. Use at start-up and whenever adding or replacing water.

Sizes: 50 mL, 100 mL, 250 mL, 500 mL, 2 L, 4 L, 20 L

Why It's Different
Nearly all companies manufacture a product that removes chlorine. None of those, however, can compare in quality, concentration, or effectiveness to Seachem’s flagship product: Prime™. Prime™ is the most concentrated dechlorinator on the market. A single 100 mL bottle will treat 1000 US gallons of tap water. Prime™ will remove both chlorine and chloramines from municipal water supplies.

Prime™ also contains a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic. It is very important to understand how those two functions work together. All dechlorinators operate through a chemical process known as reduction. In this process, toxic dissolved chlorine gas (Cl2) is converted into non-toxic chloride ions (Cl-). The reduction process also breaks the bonds between chlorine and nitrogen atoms in the chloramine molecule (NCl3), freeing the chlorine atoms and replacing them with hydrogen (H) to create ammonia (NH3).

Typically, dechlorinators stop there, leaving an aquarium full of toxic ammonia! Seachem takes the necessary next step by including an ammonia binder to detoxify the ammonia produced in the reduction process.

Be very careful when purchasing water conditioners. If your municipality includes chloramines in the water supplies, a standard sodium thiosulfate dechlorinator is not enough. Prime™ promotes the natural production and restoration of the slime coat rather than relying on artificial or non-native slime compounds. A further bonus for the ref hobbyist—Prime™ will not overactivate protein skimmers.

Directions
Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 0.8 mg/L ammonia, 1.2 mg/L chloramine, or 3.3 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.
*********************

Clarity
Product Description
Clarity™ is the ultimate clarifier for both fresh and saltwater. It employs an advanced polymeric flocculating agent that is both reef and plant safe. Clarity™ is the only clarifier on the market that does it all! Clarity™ will clear all types of clouding including, but not limited to, chemical clouding and particulate clouding (i.e. stirred up gravel bed). Freshwater and Marine. Plant and reef safe.

Sizes: 100 mL, 250 mL, 500 mL, 2 L, 4 L, 20 L

Why It's Different
Many companies manufacture multiple products to clear up each type of cloudiness and each different environment (e.g. freshwater, marine, reef, etc.). Some companies have developed products that will clear most types of cloudiness, but their application requires two separate bottles of product. Clarity contains compounds that will clear all types of cloudiness in all environments. Clarity contains both precipitating and flocculating agents in the same bottle, enabling all types of cloudiness to be removed in one dose.

How it Works

A simulation of Clarity's™ flocculating agent at work. Once tiny particles of matter have clumped together, it is a simple matter of mechanical filtration to remove the residue.
Upon adding Clarity™ to the water, you will see a cloudy haze begin to form. This is normal and means that Clarity™ is beginning to work.

The water is filled with tiny pieces of floating matter that were not visible to the naked eye. Clarity™ makes those pieces of matter begin to clump together. As they clump together they form larger peices of matter that are now visible, hence the cloudiness. Once this matter has clumped together, it is a simple matter of mechanical filtration to remove the residue. Matter that was once too small to get caught in filter media is now in large enough clumps.

Directions
Use 1 capful (5 mL) for every 80 L (20 gallons*). In some situations the cloudiness may increase slightly after adding Clarity™, however this is normal and is a sign that Clarity™ is actively working. Rapid clarification will follow. In the case of chemical or particulate clouding clean filter filter floss or cartridge after tanks clears. (Note: The 2 & 4 L container’s cap is 10 mL)

****************
Stability
Product Description
Stability™ will rapidly and safely establish the aquarium biofilter in freshwater and marine systems, thereby preventing the #1 cause of fish death: "new tank syndrome". Stability™ is formulated specifically for the aquarium and contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria which facilitate the breakdown of waste organics, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Unlike competing products, the bacteria employed by Stability™ are non-sulfur fixing and will not produce toxic hydrogen sulfide. Stability™ is completely harmless to all aquatic organisms as well as aquatic plants, thus there is no danger of over use. Stability™ is the culmination of nearly a decade of research and development and represents the current state of the art in natural biological management.

Sizes: 50 mL, 100 mL, 250 mL, 500 mL, 2 L, 4 L, 20 L

Why It's Different

Illustration of Stability's™ bacteria on biofiltration material. stability contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria
The bacteria used in competing products are inherently unstable. The conditions necessary for their growth and development fall into a very narrow range of temperatures, pH, organic loads, etc. When any of these parameters are not strictly within the proper range, the bacterial culture quickly crashes and dies. Stability™ does not contain any of the aforementioned bacteria.

The bacteria strains in Stability™ have been in development for over a decade. The necessary conditions for growth of our bacterial strains encompass a very broad range. When other bacteria begin to die off (usually from high organic loads caused by the undetected death of an organism), Stability™ simply works harder and grows faster! The strains function in fresh or saltwater. Stability™ contains both nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria, a blend found in no other product. Additionally, Stability™ contains facultative bacterial strains which are able to adapt to either aerobic or anaerobic conditions. The bacteria in Stability™ are non-sulfur fixing, another innovation in the industry. Most other bacterial supplements will form toxic hydrogen sulfide under the proper conditions. Stability™ will not, ever.

Directions
Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 40 L (10 gallons*) on the first day with a new aquarium. Then use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 gallons*) daily for 7 days. Fish and other aquatic species may be introduced at any time as long as dosage is maintained for 7 days. For optimum biofilter performance use 1 capful for each 40 L (10 gallons*) once a month or with each water change and whenever introducing new fish or whenever medicating an aquarium.


Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith




Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

Hi Kelly,
Its been nearly a year now since you joined FP. Remind
me again, what is the substrate in that tank?
What is the nitrate reading?

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Planted tank, Nitrate reading: 5. I have blue aquarium gravel. The bag doesn't say what size, but I know it's smaller than pond pebble size, but larger than fine gravel or walkway gravel. Most pieces seem to be between 1cm and 1 1/2cm.

TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now
Kelly ;o}

OK, I've got a small bottle of Prime already. (got it months ago) I want to get a bottle of Clarity. But I'm on the fence as to whether I should go for a larger bottle of Prime or to get a bottle of Stability.

TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now
Kelly ;o}

Hi Kelly,
The reason I'd asked was your discussions about the
murky water. If you'd used Flourite, or one of the
plant soils, that would be normal. With regular
gravel either you did not wash it really well enough to
get rid of the dust when you first added it. Or, you have
allowed mulm to build up over the time through lack of
through gravel vacuuming. Or, you don't have a good
routine set up for gravel cleaning.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Guilty on all 3 counts. First count---> My husband put the gravel in. Since the package said "pre-washed"... He didn't rinse the gravel. Second count----> After the plumbing issues, we didn't have a way of vacuuming the tank for a few weeks. Third count----> I've had a few tragically ill family members. I haven't been able to follow my usual cleaning routine.

TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now
Kelly ;o}

Hi,
Honestly, with these economic times, and with other
expensive hobbies, I tend to make good investments
rather than frequent ones.

Sounds weird, but I would rather "invest" in a really
good filter, a good gravel vacuum, etc. That I can
use "forever," than continually purchase bottles of
chemicals that change, or condition, the water.

A good Diatom filter, run for 2-4 hours can clear an
opaque tank (muddy) like magic. The water will turn
crystal clear - really.
http://www.aquariumguys.com/diatomfilter.html

Once you get a tank "stirred up" try one.

These things are not designed for 24/7 running. Just
set one up, turn it on, and come back a "movie" later
and the tank is done.

They are expensive, and you only use them, say, once a
quarter, but they work wonders.

As far as gravel vacuuming is concerned, I would look at
the nitrate reading to determine just how through you need
to be. If you have live plants in the tank (more than just
a token few) then you would want the nitrate reading around
10. A few token plants, then between 0 and 5.

The nitrate is the end product of the nitrogen cycle and
the decay of organics within the tank. You don't want it
at 40 or over. You can maintain a good nitrate reading
through water changes, and vacuuming the gravel. Simply
look at your tank and divide the non planted parts into
four sections. With each weekly water change, vacuum a
different section, that way, at the end of the month, you
will have cleaned the entire tank.

Yeah, I know it's easy for me to say...

Frank

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--