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Babelfish![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 ![]() ![]() ![]() | *scratches head* well unless I have a brother I didnt know about ![]() ![]() Ok, there's debate about the long term use of cycle. We used to have a member here (passed away a few years ago) that would dose cycle with every water change. From my understanding, long term a tanks beneficial bacteria may end up being out competed by other forms of bacteria causing the ammonia to not be converted properly causing all sorts of wonkyness. His theory on dosing weekly with cycle was that you maintain the good bacterias in large enough populations that other less good bacteria will never get a foothold. That being said, I've never used cycle on a regular basis and can't really support it or claim that it's necessary. For me it's good to have on hand for emergencies, such as power loss for a few days, or after a heavy medication dose. Good thing you've got an extra set of remembering there ![]() ![]() ^_^ ![]() |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Wingsdlc![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fish Guru What is this? Posts: 2332 Kudos: 799 Registered: 18-Jan-2005 ![]() ![]() | It is hard telling if the yoyo's will play night with the shrimp or not. I have two skunk loaches in my 55G with a breeding colony of Cherry shrimp. The loaches sure do not seem to be putting a dent on the shrimp population if they are eating them. I have not caught them attacking a shrimp but I am not sure what happens at night in the tank. One thing the shrimp have going for them is that my tank is quite densely planted so there is plenty of cover for the shrimp to hide in. Moral of the story, you could try it but be prepared for the shrimp to become part of the food chain. 19G Container Pond [IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Babelfish![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Pull any rotting or dying plants. Just like the animal waste the plants will cause an ammonia spike, and that's not what you want in a new or cycling tank ![]() Once the plants have the right light and nutrients, they may make a comeback. However you may also lose a lot of them due to lower light and lack of CO2. ^_^ ![]() |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | I actually had the water tested today ammonia .5 alkalinity 120 hardness 150 nitrite 0 nitrate 0 ph 7.2 I checked on CO2 pills, but got "Leaf Zone" instead. ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, Your tank is only now just beginning to cycle (ammonia .5) and with a reading that low, it could actually be a false reading due to the cycling chemicals that you have added. I would NOT add any addition fish until you see the ammonia climb (it can reach as much as 6ppm, during the cycling process) and the nitrite begin to appear (it can reach as much as 10ppm in a cycling tank). Cycling a tank generally takes 4-6 weeks... Wait before adding more fish. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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Babelfish![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 ![]() ![]() ![]() | What frank said ![]() No adding fish till the tank is fully cycled ![]() I never had much success adding ferts of anykind, made worse algae issues. CO2 tabs don't supply the right type of co2 IMO. However if you want to get rid of spare cash I can tell you my address ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ^_^ ![]() |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Frank and Babel Just wondering as the tank is cycling I've been doing water changes and adding water as it evaporates. Does that make a difference in cycle time... I've had this tank up and running since November 1st. ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, Yes, regular water changes in a cycling tank can lengthen the time it takes for the tank to cycle. As the waste products accumulate and the bacteria that eats it increases things will come to a even keel and the tank will settle down. When you dilute the "soup" with fresh water changes then things take a step back. Top off water does not necessarily do that as you aren't removing any water just replacing what has evaporated and the accumulations continue to increase. The only time I would do a water change is if the fish start showing stress from the cycling process... gasping at the surface, rapid breathing, or fish that would normally be swimming laying on the bottom. Ammonia can reach a 5 and nitrite a 10 in the process. Watch the fish, they will tell you when you have to change the water. It takes 4-6 weeks to cycle a tank with the the correct ratio of fish mass to water. You should test your water and see what the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings are now. Had you posted them along with your question we would be better able to help you. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Test results: Ammonia 0 Nitrate 20 Nitrite 10 Total clorine 0 Alkalinity 80 PH 6.8 I think I will buy my own test kits next week. This guy gave me a hard time about writing it down. I'm not quite sure he knew what he was doing. He recommended Seachem Prime to knock down the Nitrate & Nitrite. ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, Assuming (we all know what that means ![]() readings are correct, they are telling you that the tank is not yet fully cycled. The Ammonia AND Nitrite must both read zero before one can say that the tank is fully cycled. Once cycled, in a fish only tank, then you would want to "manage" the tank (water changes and gravel vacuumings) to bring the Nitrate down to zero. In a tank with plants then you have some "slack" there as it is recommended that one keeps the Nitrate between 5 & 10. You are nearly there, the ammonia is 0 and the nitrite is well on its way out as the nitrate is starting to climb. Honestly, I would not use any chemicals on the tank. Everything you are doing is working - Why mess with it? Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() ![]() PH 7.2 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 1 Nitrate 0 My husband is adamant the filter/case has to be cleaned. I have to agree. (the insides are quite slimy with algae) ![]() ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Babelfish![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 ![]() ![]() ![]() | If the filter is clogged to me that means the filter cannot handle the load being put through it. Always Always use tank water! It's the safest. In the case of your filter, most of what's in there is your bacteria that you're trying to grow, the bacteria clings to every surface; sides of the tank, substrate, plants, decor, and especially the filter. That's what the sponges or noodles or bioballs or wheel on a filter is there for, giving the bacteria a place to live! By rinsing it you end up washing all that good bacteria you've put you fish through so much for away. Having nitrite in the tank is reasonable at your stage of cycling, how many weeks has it been again? 3? 4? you're almost there, I'd highly suggest waiting till the nitrIte is gone and the nitrAte is present. Removing any bacteria at this point just sets you back and makes the poor fish suffer longer. Can you remind us what sized filter you're running on the tank? ^_^ ![]() |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Aquaclear power filter for 40-70 gallon aquariums. The box says it filters 300 gph. It's a HOB system with mechanical, chemical and biological inserts. (foam, carbon, and biomax) It's not really clogged. It's just you can see the algae in the intake tube and on the outflow rim. When you lift the lid it's a thin flim on the lid. Basically no different then on the glass of the tank, but we can scrub that off with a sea sponge/scrapper. My husbands a bit of a neat-nic with his pets and it has rubbed off on me(just a little). ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, We should probably go over some basics with you. First, the filter. A filter rated from 40-70 gallons should be fine for a 55 as that is just about in the middle of its range. However, the fish you say you are going to house in that tank are all large fish. Large bodied fish, and fish that are not only messy eaters, but also large waste producers. I don't think that particular filter is going to do the job that you want it to do. I'd skip the HOB style and purchase a canister. You mention that the inside of the filter is covered in slimy algae. Is this a sheet of algae like a blanket that smells, or is it green hair algae that is flourishing? If it is the smelly sheets of algae, it is probably BGA and you will need to eliminate it. Unfortunately, the easiest way is to simply kill it. An antibiotic, Erythromycin will kill it. The problem is that because the medication is an antibiotic, it can be lethal to the bacteria that perform the Nitrogen Cycle. Too little, and the algae will continue to thrive, too much and you have to recycle the tank all over again, just right, and you will partially kill off the beneficial bacteria, but they will grow back in time. The beneficial bacteria colonies actually live throughout the tank. They live on the sides and surfaces of the tank and any ornaments. They encrust each grain of gravel, and live on the surfaces of the filter and its media. Most of the colonies actually exist in the tank and on the gravel. The filter is the next larger reservoir for the colonies. Lastly, you seem to have set a deadline by which you will start adding the main fish to the tank, and you seem adamant. That bothers us as frankly the tank has not cycled. It's not ready to house those fish. You have to have the tank fully cycled. The Ammonia = Zero, the Nitrite = Zero, and the Nitrate = some reading less than 10. Now, once the tank is cycled, you can't just toss in those fish all at once or even one kind, once a week. With each addition of these larger fish, you have to give the tank at least a week for the Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate readings to come back to their "normal" readings... That is 0,0,something less than 10. Before adding more fish. This is not a hobby for folks who are impatient. You have to wait for nature to take ITS course. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Thanks Frank. I can wait. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Babelfish![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 ![]() ![]() ![]() | What frank said ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Ok, next, take the instructions and rip off the part about replacing the carbon every month, keep that and send the rest through the paper shredder. You should never need to replace the foam in a filter, the ones that come with the AC filters is really tough and will take lots of squeezing twisting and rinsing. I've never been a fan of amrid ect, I'm assuming that's what the biomax is, does it say exactly what it does? In my AC filters I run two blocks of foam. Every few water changes one gets squeezed out in a bucket full of used tank water, which then gets poured into the garden (the plants with : ![]() Keep the tank as lightly stocked as you can for now, that lets it mature more fully before adding more fish, and when you do add them do it slowly to let the tank mature to the new population. Like frank mentioned you're stocking some fairly heavy fish in the tank and the filter may not be able to keep up. If you're noticing a lot of waste on the bottom of the tank when you do a gravel vac you may wish to increase the frequency of your water changes and covering a smaller portion of the gravel with each change. You may also wish to consider a second HOB, or a powerhead to increase the chances of the filter picking up the waste before it settles too much into the gravel. There's lots of options out there. Oh, and one last thing, the filter will get gucky, that's part of keeping fish, it's just a matter of how gucky it gets. If the filter isn't strong enough for the load it may get blocked and grow all sorts things (even fish). If its running normally you should notice a brownish buildup after a few weeks that you end up rinsing away in used tank water. ^_^ ![]() |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, he's been keeping fish longer than I've been alive ...errm yeah.. ![]() ![]() Carbon's use in filtration systems has been going on for decades. When I first started in the late 50s, all the average person had for filters were small HOB filters that contained what looked like glass wool, and "activated" charcoal. Instead of a pump to move the water through the filter, we used a lift tube that had an attachment for an air hose from your vibrator air pump. You adjusted the flow of air so that you had bubbles of air and water pulling the water from the tank into the top of the filter. The charcoal la the the "filter floss" as it was called was the last la of filtration before the water was returned to the tank. The purpose of the charcoal was to trap the organic compounds as well as some heavy me removing it from circulation. Depending upon the fish, your husbandry, and the flow through the filter, the carbon had to be replaced at some regular interval. That was because after a certain time of immersion, it was "saturated" and instead of being a chemical filter, it became strictly a mechanical (particle) filter. That was a long long time ago... Today's filters really do not need carbon and it's use is mainly a hold over from decades past. We now know the importance of regular water changes and todays filters have huge amounts of surface area that will house the bacteria colonies necessary for the Nitrification Cycle. Today, there are only two reasons to run carbon in a freshwater tank. To remove the remnants of medications after a disease and to remove tannins from fresh driftwood (turns the water yellow in color - some folks hate that). When done treating a tank for disease, virtually every medication recommends at least one Large water change, and then the use of carbon to remove the last vestiges of the medication from the tank water. All of them say to remove the carbon from the filter during treatment. When adding driftwood to a tank, the wood will leach stannic acid into the tank water. This acid will lower the pH of the tank and also turn the water yellow in color. It does not turn the water cloudy, it's as if you are looking at the fish through yellow colored cellophane. It is not harmful to the fish, but many dislike the "look" and add carbon to their filters to remove it. Additionally, using carbon in a heavily planted tank that you are fertilizing is not recommended because the carbon will remove some of the components of the fertilizers from circulation and deprive the plants of the needed elements. Unless you are trying to do one of those two actions, you would be better served to add an extra block of foam to the filter as Babel recommends. That will increase the surface area for the bacteria colonies and won't need replacing for years and years. Adding Bio Max to your tank (filter) is like adding RIDEX to your septic tank. It "refreshes" the bacteria colonies with fresh bacteria. The theory is sort of akin to needing new bacteria for the existent bacteria to breed with so you don't the same populations breeding with each other (problems with inbreeding) and progressive weakening of the colonies from the inbreeding. I, personally, don't think that we need to be concerned about it because we simply don't leave tanks set up for a long enough period for that problem to take place. Another reason for using it is ba that rinsing out the filter and its media with chlorinated water will weaken the bacteria colonies and the new stuff jump starts the nitrification process. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() Frank, you've been working with aquariums before I or my husband was a twinkle in the eye of our parents. ![]() ![]() ![]() Bablefish, okay you have to go really, really slow with me. ![]() Okay do you mean... I'm to squeeze and swish into the bucket with the tank water. Or do I squeeze and then rinse with tap water. I think can manage the 2 foam switch setup, I'm sure. Lastly (For Now!) If I remove the carbon, do I keep it until I need it? (after medicine treatments) And how do I prepare/store it until I need it (if I can keep it, that is)? Do I let it air dry? rinse it? if I rinse it do I rinse it in tap or tank water. ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Wingsdlc![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fish Guru What is this? Posts: 2332 Kudos: 799 Registered: 18-Jan-2005 ![]() ![]() | Okay do you mean... I'm to squeeze and swish into the bucket with the tank water. Or do I squeeze and then rinse with tap water. I think can manage the 2 foam switch setup, I'm sure. Question 1 ~ Use a bucket with some tank water in it. Your bacteria colony will thank you for it. Question 2 - How long has the carbon been in the filter? If it has been in there for more than a couple of weeks it is probably no longer active and has become a mechanical/bio filter instead of a chemical filter. Even if you pull it out of the filter and let it dry it will not regenerate or anything like that. I would recommend buying the bulk carbon and a media sock to put it in. Just keep this on hand if you ever need to add it to the filter later. 19G Container Pond [IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() Ph 7.6 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Since the newt shows no inclination to eat anything alive. (it prefers frozen brine shrimp) And it hasn't made any attempt on the ghost shrimp (which loves to eat his poo). ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi Kelly, Gosh the Demon is loose!!! If ever there were candidates for the dreaded disease M-T-S it is you guys! Please allow me to digress... In many respects fish keeping is much like stamp collecting. When I got my first album and a bag of 1000 stamps, I was excited beyond belief. I jumped into it and was determined to collect every stamp I could from all over the world. Eventually I realized that I could never do such a thing and I decided that I would collect just stamps from one country. Next I realized that I'd never accomplish that goal either, so I settled on collecting mint (brand new) stamps from that country starting with the year of my birth and going forward. But, gosh! There are soo many stamps... Mint stamps, Plate Blocks, Air mail, Postage Due, First Day Covers... The list goes on and on... I'm sure you saw the analogy early on. Like the Peter Principle in which everyone rises to the heights of their maximum inefficiency, we all seem to settle into the heights of our maximum amount of available money and time before "reason" settles in. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I've seen some "Blue mystery snails" (Apple snails?)at Pets***t. But I think they would be easy targets for the yo-yo's. (if we ever get them) I don't want to spend a lot if it's just going to become feed. ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, Many of our members have the MTS in their tanks and I suspect that someone would be glad to send you a few. However, as you said, despite their living primarily in the gravel, the yo-yo's would make short thrift of them. Skip the snails with those fish. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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Babelfish![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 ![]() ![]() ![]() | I remember adam being overrun with MTS in his largest tank, and that was stocked with half a dozen clown loaches and cichlids. Only way the tank isn't still overrun with MTS is that its sitting empty, collecting dustfishies. A followup on the sponge squeezing scenario. City water kills tank bacteria. You never want to rinse your sponges under the tap if you get water from any sort of water treatment plant. Some houses with wells also add or process their water. Even houses with water tanks may filter or otherwise process their water. You would probably know if your water is treated at all. Currently my tanks run on rain water collected into two large tanks on the side of the house, no treatment whatsoever. Even with that I'm still in the habit of running water into a bucket from the fishtank, squeeze and rinse the sponges in that (depending on how long it's been they can be pretty mucky) then do the rotation and back to the filter. I agree with the bulk carbon ![]() On the fish purchasing, keep in mind that the smaller schooling fish are schooling for security and thats why we generally suggest schools of 6+. Some fish are more shoaling but they still like to be in their larger groups if they've got something bigger and more aggressive than themselves in the tank. ![]() ^_^ ![]() |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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Kellyjhw![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish My bubble... Posts: 405 Kudos: 217 Votes: 471 Registered: 22-Nov-2008 ![]() ![]() ![]() | ![]() TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now Kelly ;o} |
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