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COuld some one explane to me the steps in doing a water whange with a python siphon/filler. I've only used a bucket and let me dechlorinater sit in there for a few but how would you do that with this as the chlorine entering the tank will kill everything right

Hi,
I've been using a Python darned near since they came on
the market. While I'm draining the water, I'm scraping
the glass sides of the tank, and also lightly vacuuming
the gravel. When I've drained out the desired amount of
water I turn off the ball valve just behind the head of
the python and walk back to the sink where it is connected.
I open the ball valve and drain the hose. Then I adjust the
faucet for a temperature (running out the bottom of the
valve) to match as closely as possible the temperature in
the tank. Once that is reached, I close the ball valve
again, twist the valve on the body to fill, and set a
towel over the connection to the sink. I then walk back
to the tank and add enough dechlorinator for the amount
of water that I'm replacing, and then open the ball valve
releasing the fill water into the tank.
When done filling, I close the ball valve, and walk back
to the sink and twist the valve back to drain. I then open
the ball valve, and walk the length of the hallway to
straighten out the hose, and then starting from the head
of the head of the python I coil the hose over my arm
walking back to the sink. When I reach the sink the hose
is drained, and I turn off the water.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Awsome! Thank you so much! I'm so thankful for this site!!!!! About how much and when should I change on my 55gal cichlid tank?

Hi,
Wow, you sure ask "loaded" questions...

There is no specific answer. The reason for that is that
there are so many variables, all of which amount to how
much waste, solid and liquid, is generated in the tank.
Is it over-loaded, under-filtered, over-fed? Are they
messy eaters (leaving pieces of food to settle to the
bottom. Is it heavily planted, or just a few token plants?

If your nitrate reading is below 40 (preferably 0-10 or
even 20) then you would be fine with a 20%-50% change
weekly.

Things like what kind of fish are they, how big, how much
body mass, etc, will all affect the Nitrate reading as well
as the factors I mentioned above so I think I'd key on the
Nitrate reading. High nitrate readings (40+) indicate
a need for regular, through, aquarium maintenance including
water changes and vacuuming the gravel.

If you are starting out with a high nitrate reading, then
I'd go with 50% changes once a week and see if the reading
drops. If it does, then I'd continue on the once a week
until I got it down to 10 or less, and then see what
happens if you skip a week. If the change goes back up too
high, then I'd stay at once a week.

I'm sure you get the idea.
Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

you should go to your lfs and by a master kit, or at the least a nitrate test kit.then do your water changes based on your rreadings.

You will soon find out one way or another there is and never will be a firm set of rules for fish keeping especially when it comes to water, filtration, feeding and many more requirement for a tank.
Naturally there are some fish that should be kept with certain fish a good example is angel fish and neon/cardinal tetras. But you are asking about water changes.
Over the years I have always tried to stick to a strict rule of doing water changes now I am changing 45lt for the 300lt tank and 15lt for the 42lt tank. Now one of the reasons for this quantity of water is 3-15lt water containers for the 300lt and 1-15lt for 5the other tank.

How often depends on the tank, its inhabitants and the filtration plus\ a few other things. The big tank is powered by a Eheim Pro11 also has a god UGF system and the small tank a good sized HOB.
I can afford to miss a week or two with the big tank providing I do top ups but with the small tank I am pushing it a litle and it must be done weekly.

For your tank you are not using a water storage system but taking it directly from the water supply.
What you will have to do is calculate the amount you want to and MUST take out. Measure the amount you take out by using a measured water container.
When you have done this mark a place on the tank that you can see easily when doing a water change. In the large tank I use the top of a stick on thermometer and the small tank a very small piece of stick tape up next to the stick on thermometer.
I would think about 30-40% and high as 50% if required.
It will take a lot of experience and water testing to get it right. To start off with it could be either too mush or not enough if you got it perfect first attempt fantastic. The results will not be after one or two water changes but again if it is fantastic.

I hope this all helps you and does not confuse.
This is a question that should be asked by all beginners and fully under stood by all fish keepers.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
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Keith

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