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Hi everyone,
Recently one of my neon tetras seemed to have mouth problem. It looks as if the mouth is growing cotton wool!
It is now swimming around but cant have any food intake.

What seems to be the problem and what medication should I use?

I have sensitive fish like clown loaches and rummy nose tetras in the tanks.

Should i set up a hospital tank just for the little fellow?

any input would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

A gram negative disease, Maracyn-Two should be dosed, a broad spectrum antibiotic, and soon...

Not being able to eat the trop will die.

--garyroland.

Yes, isolate this fish ASAP. The best way is to move the fish into a reasonably sized container (5gal is good for a lone neon), WITH as much of his own tank water as you can spare, without depleting more than 25-30% of the original tanks water. Keep the container in your warmest room and if there is a big temp difference in the tank temp and room temp, wrap the thing in a towel to slow its drop. An incandescent lamp near the container is good for a few degrees too. Temp fluctuations kept at 1C max per 24 hours are the least stressful. Make sure there is an airstone and a fake plant to make him comfortable. The plant can be placed to provide an area of rest with low current. Always use a check valve with the airstone/airline if you cannot place the air pump higher than the water line (power goes out, water siphons out).

Mardel recommends Maracyn (erythromycin), not Maracyn-2 for Mouth Fungus (columnaris bacteria). This is the same as Body Fungus (see link below from Mardel). Maracyn (minocycline) can be dosed along with it to prevent or kill secondary infections that are resulting.

However, in AUS I believe you will have a hard time getting any Erythromycin.

Alternatives in isolation would be Tetracycline, Sulfa-based meds.

While Melafix and Pimafix are good, once mouth fungus takes a grip, I'd go the more aggressive route with antibiotic. It can kill quickly so don't be surprised if you lose him. If others feed on him when he dies, their risk goes up. This is why isolation is so important.

If you don't have freshwater aquarium salt, consider purchasing Doc Wellfish Freshwater Aquarium Salt. Predissolve some in a bottle partially filled (like 1/4) with hot water and a drop of conditioner. Once dissolved, add cool conditioned water. Dribble in the solution slowly over a two day period for a full dose (1Tbsp per 5 gallons). Salt helps hinder the bacteria and replaces needed electrolytes, giving the fish a boost. However, all things must be gradual, including raising salinity and decreasing it.

Mouth fungus can be aggressive. It is very important this fish is isolated and you watch for any others with the condition. He may have injured his mouth (unless he is a new purchase) and it lead to infection.

Only if the infection spreads, en masse, to more members of the tank, than is practical to treat in quarantine, would I dose the tank. In any event, monitor daily for ammonia while using antibiotics, beginning two days into treatment and following through up to 3 days following treatment as there can be a delay in the response of good bacteria. It is wise to have some bacterial starter like New and Improved Cycle, should you need to medicate the main tank.

Hope this helps

http://www.mardel-labs.com/mardel/f_amedi.html


Last edited by Cory_Di at 18-Jan-2005 11:18

Being in Australia you may also treat with an over the counter fungus med for true fungus, not Melafix...

--garyroland.

Fungus on the mouth is more likely to be "cottonmouth" or as we call it officially, columnaris bacteria, rather than "true fungus", aka Saprolegnia. I would not treat it as a true fungus. Some of those products contain things like methylene blue, which are not effective for columnaris (or has very little effectiveness), or formalin, or malachite green. All of those things may work ok on true fungus, but have limited capabilities against the most likely cause - bacteria.

Acriflavine/trypaflavine are chemicals that are effective against columnaris infections, and also to some extent, true fungus.

Thank you all for the responses. I will see what I can do. I normally have pretty bad luck if I put a fish to hospital tank. They normally die after the process. Will get to fish shop and see what they can offer me for treatment here in Western Australia.

Cheers

Sometimes it is the stress of transfer that finishes them off if they are really sick. However, that stress can be mitigated.

By using as much of the original tank water as possible, the water is the same. Anything subtle, or not so subtle, is eliminated from the equation, including "tastes" or "smells".

Ensuring temperature is within 1F, either way, best eliminates temp shock. Using the same thermometer to test both tanks will rule out any variation seen in different instruments (which I have found can be off several degrees).

Making sure they have a fake plant, cave or other things to help them feel secure. For schooling fish, I have even placed a mirror against the glass to give them the false impression of company.

Adequate oxygen levels too - like extra airstones are helpful, provided there is still a quiet, flow-free area of the tank to rest.

Gradually increasing salt and other additives is also helpful, versus dumping it all in at once. Even most meds are slow dissolving taking many hours to completey dissolve. This means they can't get too much in their blood stream too quickly.

Anyway - just a few ideas on less stressful transfer.

Hi all,

I'm just coming back to give you all an update on the condition of my neon. And also, seek for more advises.

After 1 month of treatment in a 10g Hospital tank (with water half filled), my neon doesnt seem to get better.

The only medication I could find is

"Aquachem Phenoxine"- Broad Spectrum Medication
For cold water and Tropical Fish
Active Constituents:
2-Phenoxyethanol 17.6 ml/L
Formaldehyde 37% 28ml/l
Brilliant Green 0.24 g/l
Malachite Green 0.08 g/l

The medication is for the prevention and treatment of
-white spot, fin and tail rot, slimy skin disease, body and mouth fungus (Saprolegnia & Flexibacter columnaris)

I did partial water change every 3 days and feed the neon crushed fish flakes. But I dont think he can eat it.
Please see the link for the photo of my neon and his cotton mouth.

http://www.qyhouse.com/mouthprob.jpg

Today , I started to feed him on newly hatched baby brine shrimp. I dont know what else I can do to help him. Is the medication the right one?

Any suggestion welcome.