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SubscribeOh No... Fungus or Ick?
AngelZoo
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Registered: 16-Dec-2003
female usa
I see a raise white spot on one of my blue danio's fins.

I've had ick before... the spots looked much smaller and there was several of them. All fish which were treated died.

I'm not sure what this is yet, should I wait longer until I can more clearly identify it? However if it is ick, waiting might be worse, though I'm afraid to medicate for ick.


Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:36Profile AIM PM Edit Report 
Cory_Di
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*Ultimate Fish Guru*
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Registered: 19-Dec-2002
female usa
At the very least, add Melafix and/or Pimafix. Some infections can start out as a white spot. Look in on the fish very often to see if more spots are showing. If so, then don't wait - get Rid-Ich Plus in the water before more hatching ich can attach to the fish (this is one of the safer ich meds). If you have sensitive fish, you may want to dose at half strength. Make sure you add an extra airstone if possible and don't raise the temp if you are working with any product containing formaldehyde (formalin). It is a gas and reduces oxygen in the water. When temp goes up, it also has less available oxygen so it is a doubly whammy. Never combine with any copper either - very deadly. Copper can't be removed with activated carbon, so if you use something like Coppersafe, you need to do daily water changes (25% same temp), to remove it before adding something containing formalin.

Ich is highly rare in established aquariums where fish are not subjected to a sudden chill. I've never had it in my tanks, but I've always respected the guideline I found in some fish disease books of +/- 1F for 24 hours. People often do the finger test for incoming water during water changes. However, what is important is how much the overall tank temp drops. If it goes down 3F, for example, you are asking for ich. If it goes up several degrees, a low lying bacterial infection like columnaris can mushroom rapidly. In many cases, I'll lower or raise temp +/-1F every 12 hours, but with some heaters, this is difficult. The larger the tank the slower the rise or drop. On small tanks, it can change much too quickly for fish to tolerate. This is because their body temp = water temp. They don't self regulate.

What is the stock list on this tank? Catfish, inverts? These can be adversely affected by ich meds.

How about parameters? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temp)?



Last edited by Cory_Di at 08-Dec-2004 18:02
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:36Profile PM Edit Report 
AngelZoo
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Fish Addict
Posts: 771
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Registered: 16-Dec-2003
female usa
Ok, this is a 30G Extra High. It's been set up in this location since Sept 18th, 2004. Previous to this at our other home, it had been set up since about last Dec.

Ammonia: 0
NitrItes: 0
NitrAtes: 5
pH: 7.0
Filter: Aqua Clear 200
Heater: None - hasn't had one for over 6 months now.
Temp: Stays regular at about 73 Degrees
Fish: Gold/Zebra/Blue Danio's, Kulie Loaches, Honeycomb Tita, CAE, Snails (don't care about the snails).
Last Water Change: 2 days ago at 30%, removed and cleaned live plants *due to algea problem*.

I am continually checking on all of them.

Edit: I have both Melafix & PimaFix, I will does with PimaFix now, thank you.

Last edited by AngelZoo at 08-Dec-2004 18:35
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:36Profile AIM PM Edit Report 
Cory_Di
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Registered: 19-Dec-2002
female usa
Actually, the two together work best.

If you have live plants in there, any ich med will likely kill the plants. Hopefully, it is not ich.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:36Profile PM Edit Report 
brtaylor2000
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male usa
what ever you do dont use super ick cure. That thing wiped out half my fish and i only used half the dose. I will be stocking on ick away hopefully that will help if i get another break out. Also put your airstone on the higest level you can I learned from my mistakes.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:36Profile AIM Yahoo PM Edit Report 
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