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I have a oscar that seems to have trouble breathing,and stays a top of tank,also not eating like it usually does. I have done my regular water changes and chemistry is ok. Any ideas as to what is bothering him?

Usually that is a sign of a lack of oxygen in your tank, or the temperature may be too high. Do you have a HOB filter? Any airstones?

Don't know what an HOB filter is. I have no air stones. Is there a quick remedy to get more oxygen in tank? I do have bubble sticks but have yet to install.
Thanks jacnyr

what kind of filtraton have you got?

can you install those bubbles sticks ASAP

any abnormal things on his fins?

I have 55gl. with 12 inch oscar,5 inch jack dempsey,3 inch firemouth. I have 2 60 gl. rated filters,one whisper one topfin.
I could and will set up the bubble sticks.
Thanks, jacnyr

p.s. He is more pale looking with what appears as holes on back of head. Nothing as regard of his fins


Last edited by jacnyr at 09-Jan-2005 19:55

It sounds like he has hole in the head disease. This disease is common with cichlids.

Here is a link regarding the disease:
http://www.aquariumfish.net/information/hole_in_the_head.htm

And another:
http://www.worldcichlids.com/diseases/Adamhith.html

HITH is usually caused by poor water quality and/or improper diet. What do you feed your cichlids?

Also, what are the exact numbers for your water paramters?

---

I'm not your neighbor, you Bakersfield trash.

First I would like to thank all whom replied.
I have been feeding him Hikari cichlid pellets,wardley's same, and lately some JumboMin food sticks from Tetra(47%protein).
I have always checked the water chemistry and most recently had 0 ammonia,7.0 ph,80ppm nitrate.
I went to other web site and it was mentioned that too much gravel may cause some problems. My girlfriend insisted on adding so it would look "nice",so at present there is 2-3 inches.
55gl. tank
1-oscar-12"
1-jack dempsey-5"
1-firemouth-3"
I have 2 flow through filters rated at 60gl.
Thanks again ALL!
jacnyr

I know some test kits don't have it, but can you get a nitrite reading? If you don't have one, take some water in a bag to the fish store and ask them to read it. WATch them test and get the actual number, not a description.
While all fish are sensitive and should react to it to some degree, they are still individuals. I had only one white cloud out of six react to nitrite when my tank was cycling and they are hardy to it. But that tipped me off when he was piping up near the filter intake where oxygenated water was highest.

If there are nitrites, pick up some freshwater aquariums salt (rock type like doc wellfish) and put one-half to one full dose (see package) into a disposable container with holes poked into it (make sure there is no detergent residue). Sink it and it will slowly dissolve. This inhibits nitrite uptake into the bloodstream. Don't do this if you already add some type of cichlid salt.

Also, 80ppm nitrates - that needs to be brought down. You want to target that number to be less than 40ppm. We once thought it was harmless even at high numbers. Testing has been done and confirmed that high nitrates cause blood vessels to dilate and will cause deteriorating health and less ability to fight off infections.

If your nitrites are zero (0.25 is not zero), then I would suspect this fish has possible gill parasites, if he continues to be at the surface and if he is breathing rapidly in comparison to normal. Parasite Clear Tank Buddies is highly effective for this, IF you find a box with Praziquantel listed in the ingredient list. It was reformulated last year and some stores may have old stock. Follow directions for Gill Flukes as it has to be dosed a few days apart. He just may have been weakened, but others can catch it. Ditto with the salt, if there are flukes. It will be soothing and helpful.

Are any "feeder" fish going into this tank, or has it happened recently? If not, I commend you for using good, nutritious choices in the pellets you picked. If yes, then you are exposing your fish to any number of pathogens and something that is not as nutritious as many woudl believe. I've seen mouth fungus, true fungus, ich, and only God knows what in those disgusting tanks. Some feel that HITH is supported by one-sided diets too, like fish only. I've known several people to have healthy, happy, and georgeous Oscars just feeding them such pellets. However, if you like to have them enjoy them hunt, then quarantine the prey a few weeks or raise your own. Feed them highly nutritious foods and your Oscars will benefit.



Last edited by Cory_Di at 12-Jan-2005 23:38

He has not had anything to eat for over a week now. I am most certain that HITH is now fatal for him. I have installed the air sticks and checked water myself and even went to store with sample,only the nitrates were at an 80ppm that I thought might be a problem. His eyes are now cloudy and less movement.
I have heard that it is not transfered to other fish so I have been hopefull that a miracle my happen.
It is strange how the jack dempsey and firemouth react as they seem to know that something is wrong.
If nothing happens in his favor in the next couple of days I will have no choice but put him out of his misery.
My 12" Oscar,he will be missed.
Thank you all for your help.
jacnyr

that sort of sounds like what happened to my 6in oscar, i had to put him down

HITH does NOT need to be fatal. There are a number of cures for it, but the first thing you need to do is follow the earlier suggestions and GET YOUR NITRATES DOWN. Large Cichlids will suffer from ill health with any nitrate level above 40ppm. In some cases a level of 40ppm or high is fatal. You are at DOUBLE that level, so you need to fix that NOW. I'd remove those air sticks, as they are chemical and might react with the other meds you should start to use.

First step is to do a 40% water change. That will replace a lot of the depleated oxygen and also reduce you nitrates significantly. Use something like ammolock or another water treatment, and try to match the water temp with the tank temp as closely as possible to reduce stress on your fish.

Next step is to try and get him to eat. I would be feeding him a diet of either pea's (frozen ones shelled) or your Hikari pellets soaked in a good liquid multi-vitamin. Better multi-vitamins will have a lot of B, C and D vitamins in them, all of which help with HITH. You need to feed soaked pellets one at a time, or the vitamin will just disolve into the water and not reach the fish. Soak the pellets until they are firm but moist.

Next step is to get a bigger or another tank. A 55G with all of those fish is really not big enough. It would be big enough for the Oscar on his own, but nothing else. Following the 40% water change, do 15% changes daily until your Nitrates are back below 20ppm.

HITH does NOT have to mean death. The fish can be saved, though it might suffer some scarring. Start the above process, and see how it goes. If you really care for your fish, then the above process (though time consuming) will provide you with good results.

This is from http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/hdhith.htm

"The fish can be treated by isolating to a separate tank and adding either Dimetridazole (5 mg/litre) or Metronidazole (7 mg/litre). In some countries (including the UK), these are only likely to be available via veterinary prescription. The treatment will probably need to be repeated a few days apart, with a 20-30% water change between each treatment. Medicated food is useful for treatment, but this can be problematic if the fish is not feeding. Direct injection near the affected area is likely to prove very effective, but should only be attempted by an appropriately qualified person. In the UK, Waterlife Octozin may also be used for HITH disease"

Last edited by jester_fu at 18-Jan-2005 18:29