FishProfiles.com Message Forums

umm panic help please now...err..ahhh!!!! I don't know what to do!
the male peppered cory in my mated pair is looking really bad.
He had what looked like red spots below his dorsal fin the other day and part of his tail fin was missing. I asked the peeps at the LFS and they said it sounded like he'd been in a fight. Give him good clean water, little bit of stress coat and he'd be good.
The tail fin is ragged and now how what looks like a sizable large white growth on the damaged part. I can't see any redness on him now but having trouble catching sight of him. As soon as I come near he hides. I know this requires medication but I don't have a quarantine tank! I've an old 2 gallon tank that's empty but no filter, heater or anything else required to set it up.
On another site, someone suggested Pimafix and Melafix, as being safe for plants and inverts. The only things I have on hand are maracide and furacyn. Anyone have suggestions?
I've got live plants, various snails and red cherry shrimp in the tank as well, which is part of the problem.

Okay, fin rot is treatable but we do need to move fast. Can you please supply us with ammonia, nitrAte and nitrIte numbers? Also have you done a water change lately?
Melafix won't harm plants or snails, I've used it plenty of times in my tanks, but IME it's not strong enough to treat true fin rot. Maracide I've never used to treat for finrot although I've used it for ich in the past with both plants and snails in the tank.
Because of the white growth it sounds like it may have a fungus, andy chance we can get pictures?

^_^[hr width='40%']"I'm alright, I'm alright
It only hurts when I breathe"

ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 30
pH 8.1
I know nitrates are high, i'm doing my best to keep it down by cutting tap water with DI water. The tap has 20 ppm of nitrate (well water). Taking it slow as I'm trying to reduce the pH gradually as well.
It's time for the weekly water change anyway, so it'll be a bigger than normal one snce he's sick.
I'll try to get a pic, he hides every time I come near.
I've heard salt baths suggested as well, would this work? My water might be a little screwy already as we run a water softener, using solar salt.

Leslie and I used Melafix to help treat GoFish last fall with a white fuzzy growth that was taking him over, and we were quite successful, as he is still with us today. I've used it to treat fin rot on guppies also and been successful, just be sure to raise the temp a tiny bit, and follow your directions...best of luck, Heidi

"I've got a great ambition to die of exhaustion rather than boredom." Thomas Carlyle

well at the suggestion of people on various sites and the local fish stores, I'm trying the melafix/pimafix combo.
I also took a water sample to the store for them to test. Guess they have a more sensitive test than i do because they picked up something i didn't:nitrite.
Did a 25% water change, getting every bit of mulm i could find, removed any sort of dead plant. Added seachem's Stabiltiy (the bacteria stuff) to help with anything I missed and added Amquel+.
Now to find the cause...
Thanks for the help ladies!

Pimafix/Melafix is something you can try. But, if you find him deteriorating quickly, then use the furacyn that you have. I have used full strength furacyn on habrosus cories, sometimes referred to as dainty or peppered. There is one other species some refer to as peppered, so I'm not sure which one you have. Mine are tiny, even as adults (1/2 - 1 inch). I have them on the third and final dose of furacyn to treat potential barbel infection and I'm amazed at how well they are doing. But, given your inverts, that would not be wise in the main tank.

If need be, quarantine this fish in a rubbermaid bin, if you don't have a spare 5 or 10 gallon. Drop in an airstone (use a check valve to prevent backflow), and use a lid. A cave or plant will provide security.

If you transfer the fish with as many gallons of water from the main tank as you can without depleting 30%, it will be least stressful. Then top it off slowly to make up the rest and make sure it is the same temp.

If you don't have a spare heater, wrap the bin in a blanket to slow its descent to room temp and keep in the warmest room possible.

good idea with the rubbermaid! If this doesn't work I think I'll try it. I'm leaving him in the main tank right now so he can hide if he feels the need. His mate hasn't left his side either, it's adorable. Trying to reduce his stress.
He's a C. Paleatus, also known as a peppered cory. Still young and fairly small, but old enough to have spawned 4 times in the past month.

The stress of being alone is one of the challenges with these guys. It could prove so stressful that he just clamps up and shuts down. It's up to you, but you may consider moving both partners in there together and give them a few fake plants in there with a cave.

I'm very pleased with how well these guys are handling the furacyn. If you err in dosing, be sure to err on the side of too little. Furacyn claims to be safe for scaleless fish and I'm finding that to be true.

What we need to watch for is any flicking from any of your fish, especially the sick one. Was it brought on by some type of unseen parasite, such as a protozoan infestation? I think the important thing is to rein in the infection, then consider parasites.

flicking?

Flicking, they'll flick or brush up against plants or tank decor alot. You'll probably notice it if you see it, they'll be acting different.

^_^


[hr width='40%'] "Ah, yes," said the toad. "You've got Nac Mac Feegles!"

Flicking is the way they scratch an itch . Cories will roll to the side, then abruptly brush up against something, usually the gravel. You need to sit in front of the tank for a while during their active periods and just watch their behavior. Other fish will get close to an object like a leaf, air line, or whatever, and then rub up against it rapidly.

Flicking or flashing is often a sign of parasites, but other things can cause fish to itch as well. pH fluctuations, nitrites, and even some fertilizers will cause it.

He's looking much better now, the white is nearly completely gone and he's a bit more active.
I haven't noticed much flicking, maybe once every couple weeks. I had noticed it and was keeping an eye on it. avne't seen them do it recently.
But the white clouds seem to be..shimmying I guess is the right word. They still in one spot a lot of the time and seem to move as if they;d be swimming but don't go anywhere.
What are the usual causes of this?

Do you have the ability to check ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temp?

We really need to look at all of these. When more than one fish is showing symptoms, it is all the more important to look at the environment and see if it is being caused by something there.

If you don't have a specific tester, take a bag of water to a fish store and ask them to test for the above. We need numbers so please record them if you have to do this.

I'll get the numbers for you tomorrow (technically today as it's nearly 2 in the morn. I have to go to work tomorrow...at the LFS! Since shimmying can be caused by low temps, I tried raising the temperature a few degrees. At 76 right now, and the fish seem much happier. Oddly enough, the white clouds who are supposed to like the colder temperatues are the ones who responded the most to the higher temp, much more active.