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SubscribeTreating ich with salt?
foj1428
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Fingerling
Posts: 43
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Registered: 06-Apr-2005
female uk
I've just noticed an outbreak of ich is starting in one of my tanks, probably due to a new fish added at the weekend which I didn't quarantine (oops!). I absolutely can't make it to my LFS anytime before next weekend to get any treatment, however I do have some aquarium salt and was wondering if I'd have any success using this, at least until I get something else? Has anyone tried salt to treat ich? Or have any useful info?

Tank size - 20gal
Occupants - 2 cherry barbs (one infected), 4 platys (two infected), 1 male betta (infected)
Parameters - ammonia 0, nitrIte 0, nitrAte 10, pH 7, temp 24.5 degrees C

Thanks in advance!
Post InfoPosted 20-Mar-2006 23:55Profile MSN PM Edit Report 
luvmykrib
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female canada
The traditional method of treating ich with salt goes like this: Begin to gradually raise the temp in the tank to 30C, add the aquarium salt at the dose recommended on the box. The higher temp speeds up the life cycle of the parasite making it move from the encysted stage (where it is protected by the fish) to it's free-swimming stage (now it's vulnerable). The salt causes it to have problems with osmosis and regulating it's moisture content and kills it off. To be sure you have got all stages treatment must continue for 2 weeks. This method is hard on the fish, mine don't like temps above 28C, they have a harder time getting oxygen at higher temps. The salt could tide you over until you can get to some meds. Jungle Labs Ich guard and Ich Guard 2 work well without raising the temp. With the med you will need to take the carbon out of your filter, and after the treatment is done put a new one in for a week to clear the med out of the water. Wal-Mart usually carries this med.

A good way to clear the parasite out of the tank is to have it fish free for a week at 20C or above, without fish as a host the parasite dies off. The higher the temp the quicker the die off as the parasite speeds through each life stage until there are no parasites left. During this time you would support the biological filter using fish food or pure ammonia like in fish less cycling.

"If you're afraid you'll make a mistake, you won't make anything."
-Family Circus
Post InfoPosted 21-Mar-2006 00:58Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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*Ultimate Fish Guru*
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male australia au-victoria
I know it can be used but it would be the last thing I would ever use personal choice only.

Certainly buy a good brand white spot cure and follow the instructions exactly as recommended.

Other things that you should do are increase the temp this will speed up the life cycle of the parasite. Turn the lights off, helps to reduce stress, Reduce feeding even once every third day will not hurt at all. A very good thing to do is add extra airation this been found to be benifical.

I also would add Melafix and Pimafix as directed.

Finally the tank is infected and therefore it must be treated as well, I would continue to treat the tank for at least two weeks after the last white spot has disapeared.

Then you can start a 30% water change twice a week for at least three weeks. Prepare your water in advance.

All this just might seem too much but it should remove 100% of the parisite and not loose any fish at all also clean the tank of the parasite.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
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Post InfoPosted 21-Mar-2006 01:57Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
crazyred
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female usa
Word of warning here, cherry barbs are very sensitive to high salt levels and I killed 5 out of 6 of my cherry barbs by using salt to treat ick. I found out only after several were gone and I did some online research and found out that cherry barbs are not good with salt. Mine had their fins eaten off by the salt and they never recovered. Only one lone male survived it and he looked pretty bad until I bought him some more friends.

I would reconsider salt for your tank and go with Quick Cure or another ick treatment....and definitely turn up the heat.


~~Melissa~~
"Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder."
Post InfoPosted 21-Mar-2006 16:25Profile MSN PM Edit Delete Report 
longhairedgit
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male uk
Yeah the whole salt treatment thing sounds dicey to me too, Id go with a treatment I know to be effective , like Esha Exit, and take as few risks as possible.
Post InfoPosted 21-Mar-2006 17:01Profile MSN PM Edit Delete Report 
foj1428
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Fingerling
Posts: 43
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Registered: 06-Apr-2005
female uk
OK, I think I'll stay clear of the salt!

If I get a treatment specifically for ich and get some Melafix and Pimafix as well, should these all be used at once? I've never had an ich outbreak before (lucky me!) so I'm not really sure what to do!

Until I can get to my LFS I have switched the light off and will reduce feeding and gradually increase the temp so hopefully things will be ok!
Post InfoPosted 21-Mar-2006 20:36Profile MSN PM Edit Delete Report 
foj1428
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Fingerling
Posts: 43
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female uk
I have another question:

How quickly/slowly should the temperature be raised? I know sudden temperature changes stress fish.

Also how long should the temp be kept high?

Thanks again!
Post InfoPosted 22-Mar-2006 00:23Profile MSN PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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male australia au-victoria
I would raise it 1c every 12hrs and keep it at that temp for at least until you have completed the treatment. That includes the after treatmrnt. Then slowly reduce the temp the same way.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW
Post InfoPosted 22-Mar-2006 05:21Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Bob Wesolowski
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Mega Fish
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Registered: 14-Oct-2004
male usa
Foj,

Very few additives or medications should be used in any sort of combination in your aquarium. The reasons are:
o Medications are beneficial at a recommended dosage and often deadly at another dosage, combinations will increase the dosage in the aquarium.
o If you use drug combinations, how will you know which med alleviated the symptoms and which med killed your fish?

Use the ich recommended med by:
o Do a 25-50% water change and vacuum the substrate,
o Remove carbon from your filter,
o Boosting water temperature to 82-84F or about 29C,
o Treat at 50% of the recommended dosage,
o The med will call for a second dose, at that time do a 50% water change and vacuum gravel,
o Treat at 50% dosage.

Continue the treatment plan for a minimum of two weeks to ensure that you have killed all of the ich at every stage of its life cycle. The rise in water temp will shorten the life cycle to 3-5 days and prevent the organism from completing the infection cycle.



__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
researched from Steven Wright
Post InfoPosted 22-Mar-2006 14:09Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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