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Ok, for now, I'm just going to ask about my 30G tank, because it's the worst.

The algea is back again. I've had it on and off, but typically been able to get rid of it pretty well.
I moved back around Sept 18th, and thusly had to set the fish tanks up again. I kept the sand bet wet, and kept the filtration wet etc, Ammonia, NitrItes are 0, and NitrAtes are reading about 10(the lowest my test goes).

I do not over feed, and keep up with weekly WC's, and Gravel Vacs, not over stocked.

I've switched to using Florish Tabs only (they do not have phosphate). And did a 30% WC last night, Gravel Vac, and rinsed off my plants, and added 8 new plants in.

This morning, there is brown algae all over my old plants, brownish hair algae on a lot of them, some BGA, and what might be white hydra on the glass now too!

I've turned the lights off, will keep them off for 2 days, and covered the tank up to block any possible sunlight.

What else can I do now?

What kelvin and watts are the lights, and how long are they left on.

The cnynobacteria is due to low nitrAtes/little water movement (different than surface agitation). Remove as much by hand as possible during your lights out...make sure you have the water moving enough in the tank, and that nitrAtes never drop below 10ppm.

^_^
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"The cnynobacteria is due to low nitrAtes/little water movement (different than surface agitation). Remove as much by hand as possible during your lights out...make sure you have the water moving enough in the tank, and that nitrAtes never drop below 10ppm."


If I, and many other advanced hobbyists, cannot tell you what causes Red Slime Algae (cyanobacteria), I doubt that statement means much.

I can tell you what nourishes Red Slime Algae, nutrients, of course, like decaying plant matter, food, etc., but I cannot tell you where the stuff comes from originally.

If a hobbyist was able to eliminate all nutrients (nitrates) in a tank, the Red Slime Algae would have to depend on photosynthesis to propagate.

The Red Slime will use all the nitrates it can get to fluorish.

--garyroland.


Last edited by Tammy at 12-Nov-2004 14:47

Whoa there. Garyroland, do you have any advice for this situation?

At any rate. I have a AquaClear 200 running on the tank at "top speed". I also have 2 air stones in each corner of the tank (it's a 30 Extra High). So I've tried to do what I can to help with water movement.

I'm using 2 Hagen Power Glo lights not sure the watts... 15 each? I can look when I get home.
I also have an additional regular Florescent light running on there, probably also 15watts.

The lights are normally on for 12 hours, then off 12 hours, they are on a timer.

Angel...

I would go with Babel's suggestion and also keep your lights on a timer where they are on only 4 hours a day for the next month.

Gary...

You can voice your opinion tactfully without being demeaning.



Last edited by Tammy at 12-Nov-2004 14:51

WHOA! I come back after a long sebaticle, and see that though there are a many new and exciting things happening on this wonderful site! And yet, some things I guess will never change, LOL

As for this thread, well I agree with ya all, and yet I disagree with you'all. IMO and experience, the cause of cyano to grow has multiple determinations. It is actually a bacteria that can photosynthesize. One of the most agreed upon reasons for any algea and cyano out break in a plant tank, is the decrease in "things" needed by the complex plants and thus these plants have a lower uptake of nutrients, causing an increase in these nutrients, and finally making a perfect place for the algea. Some of these "things" are lighting, fertilizer, CO2, ect.

One reason for spurts of cyano is the idea of old lights, that were bright lights. In other words, bright lighting as for plant tanks that need changed. As lights age, they deminish, drop their PAR readings, and their wave length actually changes, usually to that which the cyano likes, and not that, that the other plants like. When this starts to happen, the plants start to not take up as much nutrients as they usually do, and they start growing slower, and even start dieing off. As they need the high PAR levels and required wave lengths and CO2, in order to photosynthesize. When this occurs, the cyano has an abundance of nutrients now, and will explode with growth. After a thourough cleaning, I would suggest you place new bulbs in your lighting fixture. And, for a temperary time, use only one bulb. The best way to keep cyano, and most any algea from growing, is to make the tank the best place for the other live plants, and they will in turn out compete for the nutrients the algea need.

Some more info to help; using the correct specturm of light for your plants will help them grow better than the algea. CO2 will also help your plant growth tremendously, and decrease the algae growth. You do not need a CO2 tank, as there are several CO2 makers out there that work tremendously well, and made just for your tank. This I use on several of my 29 gal plant tanks with very bright PC lighting on them. http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=118&PROD_ID=01076900020101 I actually lost several plecos in those tanks, when I first started using this system, as they did not get enough to eat, and I did not realize this until it was too late. Now, there are no plecos in any of those tanks, and I have not had any algea of any kind in them, for a couple of years now. If you go CO2 though, be sure your lights are new and changed every 6 months. You can always use the "old" lights on other tanks till they completely die.

As for the higher current, well you may be taking more of the CO2 out of the tank as well. Thus, decreasing the growth and uptake of the plants, and thus increasing the availability of extra nutrients in the water. I remember trying the increased current thing several years ago, as was suggested to me as well. In just a few weeks, the plants and entire substrate were covered in the stuff! I got so agrevated that I moved the fish, took off the filter and gave it a good cleaning, then used it on another tank, and just let that tank sit till I had time to tear it down and start over. A couple of weeks later there was no cyano left in the tank, and the plants had all recovered. But I still tore the tank down and steralized it. Anyhow, in the end, what I had done was increased the CO2 levels by having no movement at all at the surface, and removed the source of increase nutrients. I actually have a couple of plant tanks that have no filters, or bubblers or anything to move the water with, and the fish do great in them. And, there is very little algea, if any at all. Mostly the only algea I get in these tanks is hair algea, but hair algea is considered a more complex plant.

As for the hydra, you probably imported that into the tank from the new plants. Should have QTed them. The best way to get rid of them is to pick them out.

IMO what to do is; get new bulbs, use only one for a week or so, get the CO2 system I showed you (but don't set it up till you turn all your lights back on), do a thourough cleaning of the gravel and as much of the algea/cyano you can get off the plants, take the air bubblers out, keep your filter running, hold off on the fertilizer till you get all the lights back on and the CO2 in place, and continue your normal water change routine.

HTH.....

_____________________________________________________________

There is always a bigger fish...

Interesting replies as I count four problems or symptoms in your tanks:

1. Brown Algae
2. Hair Algae
3. Cyano-Bacteria Algae
4. Hydra

Acid Rain had the most complete repsonse given the information that was provided. I recommend:

1. Brown Algae. Forms in soft brown clumpy patches. In the freshwater aquarium, these are usually diatoms. Usually indicates a lack of light or an excess of silicates. Increased light levels will usually make it disappear. Easily removed by wiping the glass or siphon vacuuming the affected area.

2. Hair Algae. You described this as "brown" but "hair" algae is not brown. Hair algae is often bright green with darker forms coming as "brush", "fuzz" or "beard" algae. See http://faq.thekrib.com/algae.html#cyano for descriptions. Mollies, barbs and otos may eat what you have or you may need to manually remove it. Could you give more information?

3. Cyano-Bacteria Algae. Grows rapidly in blue-green, slimy sheets. Spreads rapidly over almost everything and usually indicates poor water quality. However, blue-green algae can fix nitrogen and may be seen in aquariums with extremely low nitrates. Sometimes seen in small quantities between the substrate and aquarium sides. Will smother and kill plants. This is actually cyanobacteria. It can be physically removed, but this is not a viable long term solution as the aquarium conditions are still favorable for it and it will return quickly. Treatment with 200 mg of erythromycin phosphate per 10 gallons of water will usually eliminate blue-green algae but some experts feel it may also have adverse effects on the biological filter bed. If erythromycin is used for treatment, ammonia and nitrite levels should be carefully monitored. I have used erythromicing to kill this stuff. Follow directions and you will be fine. By the way, this simple plant-animal is naturally occurring in every environment.

4. Hydra. Cute little critters that gouramis will clean up.


__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
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Nitrate alone is all to often blamed for BGA, and I completely agree with acid rain's post here.

One thing to keep in mind while battling BGA is that they are VERY resourceful little creatures. It's actually quite astonishing, they are very unique in that evolution has made them an organism that is neither animal nor plant. Capable of photosynthesis but technically not a true algae. Quite interesting from a scientific perspective, but annoying to have in your tanks.

One thing that acidrain posted that is probably the most important to note is that because of its resourcefulness, BGA is capable of utilizing nutrients and lighting conditions that more complex plants are simply incapable of surviving off of. In a perfectly balanced and maintained planted tank, BGA and other forms of detrimental algae are almost never a problem because the alga are simply outcompeted byt more complex organisms.

Actually I have seen some "folk antidotes" for BGA involving bacterial starters like NIC. Some aquarists hold that beneficial bacteria will also outcompete BGA. This has not been proven but since I started dosing NIC weekly on my 29 gallon planted tank, I haven't seen a speck of BGA.

One thing to watch out for is Dissolved Organic Compounds (DOCs). DOCs are commonly introduced through the tank with low quality foods, especially frozen ones packed in a gelatinous medium. One way to cut down on them is to always make sure frozen foods are rinsed in tank water before feeding. Any uneaten food should ALWAYS be removed from the tank, as it will slowly leech DOCs into the water. Dead or dying plant matter can do the same, so it is important to trim plants regularly and remove any yellowing leaves. BGA love DOCs, and IMO this is usually the most common cause of infestation.

Probably the most effective long term way of eliminating BGA entirely is with a UV sterilizer, but this is not always a cost effective option. UV sterilizers are decreasing in price slowly, and are a good investment on large tanks especially.

The nitrate debate rages on but I have seen BGA in both low and high nitrate tanks. IMO it's not the nitrate specifically but if it's there the BGA is more than happy to feed on it, if it's not there they will feed on something else.

Check your tank and tap water for phosphates. Phosphates are a common precursor to most forms of algae. If your phosphates are high, make sure you're not overfeeding and the tank is being properly maintained. Phosphate removers are readily available and may be necessary as well.

Diatomatic Earth filters will remove nutrients that detrimental algae rely on to survive but again, these are pricey and not all that necessary with proper tank care and maintenance IMO.

Water changes, water changes, water changes. I can't stress that enough. While you have an algae problem it may be a good idea to increase your water changes to 25-35% weekly. Vacuum the substrate thoroughly to remove any detritus. Also thoroughly rinse your filter media to remove any waste that might be leeching DOC's and other nutrients into the water. I don't necessarily agree with removing the light, the forms of algae you are dealing with are generally able to survive low light conditions.

Erythromycin will definitely rid your tank of BGA in a hurry but I tend to avoid using it if at all possible. If the original cause of infestation is not corrected, the BGA will return with a vengeance and it will negatively affect your "good bacteria." Sometimes in really severe infestations it is required, but manual removal and tank maintenance are far superior. The choice is up to you.

To remove BGA and other algae from plants and decorations manually you can do a bleach or hydrogen peroxide dip at around 5-10% for 5 minutes or so, being careful not to immerse the roots. rinse them well in dechlorinated water to get rid of any excess chlorine.

Well this is getting really long, feel free to post any further questions and Good Luck.

Well my 5.5G isn't doint all "that" bad right now. Still some specks of BGA here and there. I will probably do another water change again soon, though it's a tad harder now because there is "surprise" fry in the tank.

I have NIC and I love the stuff, perhaps I will start dosing with that each WC (even though my tank is cycled) to see if there is any change.
I only feed high quality foods, and I'm very religious about keeping dead plant matter and such from lingering in my tank.

I have Seachems De*Nitrate running in my filter, though only a small amount, I have not noticed a difference in algae growth since using this. So to stay if this product does or does not work, would not be fair at this time.

However, I am considering buying Seachems PhosGaurd, to remove Phosphates and silicates. I'm sure that all of my tanks could use it as all of my tanks seem to have an algae problem right now, perhaps the new home I've moved too has very different water.

Thank you all very much for the more indepth help, I learned some things I didn't know

Ok I did go ahead and purchase some of the Seachem PhosGuard and put it in 2 of my tanks.
I turned off the airstones in my 30G. So we'll see what comes of that!

For my 5.5G (the one with bga) I dosed with NIC, and also put the Phosguard in. Hopefully THIS will work.