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 L# Water Quality
  L# Getting ready to Cycle....
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SubscribeGetting ready to Cycle....
DMDyne
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male usa
Ok, here's my water results after having the water in my tank for 24 hours.

Test Kit - 8.4 ph, .5 ammonia, 0 nitrIte, 6 general hardness
Test Strip-8.0 ph, 0 nitrIte, 40 nitrAte, 180 alkalinity

I know I should be trying for 8.2 ph (for cichlids), 0 ammonia, 0 nitrAte, 0 nitrIte. But what should my alkalinity and general hardness be?

I'm thinking of throwing some Otto's in the tank to assist with it's cycle but I need to know what I'm shooting for. Thanks for all input!
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile AIM PM Edit Report 
FRANK
 
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male usa us-colorado
Hi,
The General Hardness (GH) and Carbonate Hardness (KH) are
not affected by the cycling of the tank. The hardness is
a measure of the amount of Calcium and Magnesium ions that
are in the water(GH) and the amount of Carbonate ions that
are in the water (KH). These depend upon the initial values
of the tap water, and what type of ornaments and substrate
you used.

If you have rocks in the tank such as Limestone, or some
sandstones, or a substrate such as crushed coral, crushed
dolomite, or crushed oyster shells then the GH and KH will
climb over time.

Alkalinity and GH are tied together as the higher the pH
climbs toward the 8.something range, the harder the water
is. You can't have a pH of 6, and a GH of 11-22.

To sustain a pH of 8.2 or in the 8s for the Rifts, you
should use one of the substrates I mentioned. Any of them
will take your lower pH tapwater and raise it into the 8s
slowly enough to not shock your fish, and maintain it
during normal water changes. I'd also include rocks that
are limestones in the tank.

I'm not so sure that "Ottos" would survive in a tank with
a pH/GH that high, but I'm sure someone with more
experiance with that fish will read your questions and
write a reply.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Shannen
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male usa
They might be able to adapt, but I strongly suggest you do not use otos for cycling.

They can not tolerate the cycle swings, and will most def die.

If you want to use fish, try something hardy like zebra danios or a couple of comet goldfish.

Just make sure you can do something with the fish after they have completed your cycle, other than flushing it.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
DMDyne
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Yes, I have a second tank - a 20g long. The reason I had chosen Otto's for Cycling was because they are able to stand such high pH levels. So what ever my cycle fish are will be immediatly going into the second tank before I put in my Cichlids.

I'm pretty sure my LFS has Zebra Danio. If not, I know they do have Giant Danio. Will the Gaint Danio work as well?
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile AIM PM Edit Delete Report 
Shannen
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I'm pretty sure the Giant gets too big to be kept in a 20 and have a decent school of them.

If a 20 is what you have, and you don't want to take them back (give) to your LFS. Don't use goldfish either.

Stick with the tried and true Zebra Danio.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Babelfish
 
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female australia us-maryland
Honestly I wouldnt' go with ottos. I know that its been done before but the one person I've heard of using them for cycling a tank was someone that's kept fish for probably longer than I've been alive ...or almost .

Go with the zebra danios. IMO if acclimated properly they should be fine with that ph. Since you already have a tank running use filter media from that tank, or some of the substrate in a netting bag or small shallow bowl to help speed the cycle along and make it less stressful on the fish.

^_^
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And though it&#8217;s red blood bleeding from her now. It's more like cold blue ice in her heart.
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Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile Homepage AIM MSN PM Edit Delete Report 
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