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I finally bought test kits. I expected drastic results with the hardness of the water as I had tested during initial setup when I moved, but WHOA..

Tap (well) PH 8.0 KH 18 (320.4 ppm) GH 22 (391.6 ppm)
90 Cichlid PH 8.0 KH 18 (320.4 ppm) GH 27 (480.6 ppm)
29 gal CO2 PH 8.0 KH 14 (249.2 ppm) GH 19 (338.2 ppm)
10 gal Oto PH 8.0 KH 11 (195.8 ppm) GH 19 (358.2 ppm)


This test was taken same day the co2 ran out in the 29.
None of the other tanks have co2.

Have some questions.
1. Is formula for Gh AND Kh 1dh = 17.8ppm ?
2. Why is the 90 gal such a high gh compared to the
other tanks and even higher than the tap ?
3. What is the average kh fish prefer ?
4. What is your analysis of this and what needs to be done
for the well being of my fish ?

I may have to move soon and although I'll prob get way better water quality (softer and better buffering) The major change in the above values I'm concerned will shock my fish..

Thanks in advance,
DaFishMan.




[span class="edited"][Edited by DaFishMan 2004-08-09 00:12][/span]

The Amazon Nut...

Hi,
The values you have posted are not that all out
of wack for water that comes from limestone country.

Since the fish and plants are doing well in the tanks
(I don't recall seeing any distress posts from you)
I would tend to not do anything and continue normal,
regular, water changes.

The master test kits come with a phamphlet that
says for a given value, "most plants" and specifies
types of fish (tetras, live bearers, etc) all in
generalities.

You can soften the water with distilled, or RO water,
and you can make it more acidic by using peat, but
it will be a continuous process once you start.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Thanks for the great advise Frank as usual.
I hope all is well in your tanks too. Nice of ya to notice I haven't had any posts of sick fish..

Yup, it's well water and I'm assuming a limestone 'hold tank'. Can you believe I drink this stuff ? Mind you I run it thru a britta... I was mixing some RO water before but believe me, it's alot of extra work.. Not going there again, it's a good amount of time for me just to do water changes and nitrate testing for 3 tanks. I have to carry all the buckets outside so I don't fill the septic. At least now I get to test my own water without having to rely on going to the LFS, which now charges for testing..

For this type of water vs the types of fish I have, I've been extremely lucky not to have more probs then I do..
I have a few sensitive fish such as clown loaches, and more lately otos..
Thanks again !

The Amazon Nut...

Hi,
Rgr the well water and holding tank.
I'm getting ready to retire, in four years, to
our home at 10,000 feet inside the Colorado
Rockies. I have a well there, but the water
percolates through fractured granite and other
igneous as well as sedimentary rocks. It gives
us some "interesting" water and will have to
be treated. Radon is present, as well as high
iron content. Our federal agency specifies that
the iron content should be no higher than 0.08
for safe consumption. Ours is 0.083 and stains
the sinks and comodes. So we will have to treat it
and the end result could be something completely
different from what we currently have.

While we to have a septic tank, we also have a
leech field and don't have to worry about "over
filling" the tank. We use the aquarium water,
drained from the tank(s) to water our garden.
The terrestrial plants and vegetables love it.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--