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I got one of those master freshwater test kits and tested my water results are as follows:

PH: 6-6.4
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: crazy high 7
Nitrate: 10

I double checked all the tests to make sure I was reading the proper ones. What do I need to do now to get the ammonia to drop? And I guess my Nitrate needs to be lower also, I don't know.

And also I put a gallon of tap water into an empty water jug, left the lid off of it and let it sit for 48 hours. I also tested that water and those results were:

PH: 7.6
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
Nitrate: 0

Other than the PH being high is there anything else I need to test it for before I use it for water changes? Will a PH down lower my PH levels or is there something special I need to do to lower it? Oh and one more question, should I put stress coat in the water? Sorry so many questions.

Hi,
Well you got a good kit! Now the results.
That is sure not what I was expecting after your .25
comment!

I gotta ask, please don't be upset, are you color blind?

The nitrate of 10 is not bad, especially if you have a
bunch of plants in the tank. They need nitrate and will
soak some of it up as they grow.

As you suspected the white water and high ammonia are
indicators of a tank that needs help. Water changes of
4.5 gallons every day (if you have the time) or every
other day or at least twice a week, will help clear the
water. In your other post, I believe you said that the
tank had been set up for over 2 months.
Something has upset the Nitrogen Cycle and it will have
to be reestablished. One of the conditioners that contains
the starter bacteria might help you jump start the cycle
again. Do a water change and add the bacteria following
the instructions on the container.

You might want to draw a clean glass of water, let it sit
out for 24 hours (no kitty spit or dogie drool) and test
it. See what that tap water reads for ammonia. Also
a trip to the LFS with a sample of tank, and tap water
would be a good idea and see if they can duplicate your
test results.

Frank

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

The results were right. The results on top are straight from my tank and the ones on the bottom are straight from my tap after sitting for 48 hours. I kept checking the tests against the color card 5 times plus to make sure I was reading them right. Bizarre I know.

On my tap water once I get the PH where I want it will it be safe for my water changes or should I worry about the chlorine and heavy metals in it? Would I need to add stress coat to every water change?

I will get some bacteria aid to add to the tank and I will be doing water changes everyday or other every other day once I get my tap water PH where I need it, after I put it in a gallon jug and let it sit at least 24 hours. Oh and it has been set up for 6 months. Should I rinse the filter media before I add the bacteria?

If I'm not mistaken "Stress Coat" has bacteria in it, as well as declorinator. So, yes you will have to add it with every water change. BUT only for the amount you are replacing. [You can also buy something strickly for declorination and only add the "Stress Coat" once a month or so.] I wouldn't worry terribly about the PH of the tap water as it seems to change with the chemistry of your tank. Worry more about the chemistry in the tank. Test your water before each time you do a water change and if possible after. {you might want to wait a few hours or so} You will have a better idea of how the water chemistry is changing. (4 better or worst) There may be something in your tank that is lowering your PH naturally.

In the 6 months you've had the tank set up have you "rinsed" your filter? You probably should but only "rinse" it in the water you've taken out from a water change. This way you don't kill your good bacteria. Tap water usually has chlorine in it and it will destroy good bacteria as well as bad. You want to preserve the "good bacteria" in your filter as much as possible.

TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now
Kelly ;o}

Yeah about that filter rinse... My local LFS told me to rinse it in my tap water. I partially rinsed the filter sponges only to get the slime off of them, but I didn't rinse the filter media, the bio-max or pre filter, or the one other media can't remember the name of it. I'm going to hope I don't crash my tank. I need my PH to stay between 6.0-6.5, which it currently is now. Once I get my ammonia levels down will my PH go up, if it will how do I go about keeping in the low 6 range?

I just took a sample of my tank water and my tap water to my LFS, and they got the same results I did when I did the tests at home.

Yeah about that filter rinse... My local LFS told me to rinse it in my tap water

Knowing what you know now and the excellent advice you are getting here on FP I think you should think twice about that LFS. That advice is enough to completely kill all the fish in your tank.

I have a 5ft tank and I have a Eheim Pro11 canister filter. I completely pull it down and wash every thing in the old tank water every month. I do clean the inside of the canister from the tap water and that is all. That might seem too much but by doing that the filter is always running at 100% efficiency. The more junk you have in the filter the harder the filter must work to keep every thing clean and work effectively

I also add a measured amount of Seachem Stability at every cleaning and water change this keeps the good bacteria healthy.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

I went to another LFS and they told me to buy AmQuel plus and Biozyme and ad them every day for a week and not to do a water change till the beginning of next week. Should I continue to use those products but add water changes to it?

BTW Keithgh your tank is awesome!

Zeketaz
Thank you for those comments I think I will have to spend some time and update those photos.

To be honest I have no knowledge of those products, and it would not be correct of me to give you advice about what to do.
PM Frank he might know of those products if you are in the USA

If it was Stability I would double dose the first time then as directed and do a 30-40% water change every 3-4 days.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

Hi,
Kelly, here is the blurb on Stress Coat:
http://www.aquatichouse.com/Water%20Conditioners/StressCoat.asp
It, and other products like it, are designed to enrich
or strengthen the mucus coating on the body of the fish.
Abrasions from netting, scrapes against ornaments, and
attacks by other fish can damage that coating and make
the fish vulnerable to infection or parasites.

Zeke,
I'd be inclined to follow the advice of the second LFS.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Thanks Frank. That AmQuel plus is some really stinky stuff it makes my whole house smell like hard boiled eggs and dirty diapers. Is it supposed to smell that bad? Also since my first dose of AmQuel yesterday my bala has become more active. Is this a good thing?

LOL,
Yes, it does have an "odor" to it. It is, after all,
bacteria that is used to start the Nitrogen Cycle which
does breakdown the waste products in the tank.

It might be too soon to tell about the shark. Normally
a return to "normal" activity is what you want. Now, if
you overdosed the tank, it could be trying to get out!
Let's "assume" the first!

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Will the AmQuel add the beneficial bacteria to the filter if it's missing? If it does I won't need to add Biozyme will I?

Hi,
No, I would not "double dose" the tank, that will throw
everything off. Both do essentially the same thing.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

My Bad Frank! "Stress Zyme" has the bacteria; "Stress Coat" is to promote the health of slime coat. I confuse myself sometimes. But don't the "plus" bottles add bacteria too?

TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now
Kelly ;o}

I'm happy to say my ammonia is finally dropping, but my PH is also very low. It's around 6.0 if not lower.

Hi,
Now the next step is to determine the cause. Is it that
way straight from the tap? Draw a clean glass of water
from the tap, and let it sit out over night ( no kitty
spit or doggie drool) and test after it has had the chance
to degas.

You can increase the pH (only) by adding some Arm & Hammer
Baking Soda to the tank. Be sure to use the baking soda
without any additives.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

My PH from the tap (after sitting 48 hours) is between 7.2 and 7.6. How much baking soda should I add?

Hi,
For water with a pH of 7.2 to 7.6 I would not touch it.
It's perfect for just about 90% of our fish. Only African
Rift fish who need pH's in the 8, or some few who
need water in the 6's would cause me to shift the pH.

I'd leave well enough alone if I were you.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Okay, now I'm confused. In the beginning of the topic you stated you wanted to "keep the PH at about 6-6.4." Your tap water is 7.2-7.6, correct. Don't add baking soda unless you want to rise the PH. It appears there is "something" in the tank that lowers your tap water. If you want the PH to stay in the sixes.... let it be. If you want to raise the PH, then by all means add the baking soda. If you want to lower it... go with peat.

I think when you rinsed the filter with tap water, you added to your problems and sent your tank into a mini cycle. It looks as if you are on your way with repairs though.

TTFN --->Ta-Ta-For-Now
Kelly ;o}