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Algal blooms can be a variety of colours, depending upon the identity of the organism that has multiplied uncontrollably in the aquarium. Some are unicellular drifting algae, some are motile (i.e., possess small hairs known as flagella, used for propulsion), and some are multicellular colonies (e.g., Volvox). All of these organisms will multiply at a phenomenal rate if [1] they find their way into your aquarium, and [2] they find an excess of nutrients to feed upon. Nitrates are one nutrient that they feed upon, but a more likely scenario is a sudden increase in phosphates from some source. This triggers algal blooms with frightening speed and efficiency. Ask any marine aquarist.

An extreme example (and one that you definitely do NOT want to see in a marine aquarium) is the algal bloom caused by an organism called Gymnodinium breve, which is a dinoflagellate distantly related to the Oodinium species responsible for fish diseases. Fortunately, I have yet to hear of this appearing in a home aquarium, because it is the organism responsible for the phenomenon known as 'Red Tides'. This usually occurs when the organisms find themselves in waters that are heavily eutrophied (i.e., overloaded with nutrients) and phosphates are usually a more significant trigger than nitrates with this organism. The BIG problem with Gymnodinium breve is not just its fecundity (it can reproduce at a rate that outpaces some bacteria) but the ecological knock-on effects it causes when it is eaten. Because it produces a substance called Brevetoxin B, a potent neurotoxin that propagates up the food chain, and is lethal to vertebrates in tiny quantities.

Needless to say, you won't be seeing this in a freshwater aquarium (thankfully!). But you will encounter a range of other troublesome organisms if conditions are suitable for their multiplication.

You mention that your furnishings consist solely of fake plants and inanimate objects of one sort or another. The absence of live plants has probably contributed to the bloom. With live plants in an aquarium, nitrates and phosphates are mopped up to an extent, which makes live plants a valuable addition to the freshwater aquarium where possible. Even so, partial water changes are still needed to keep nitrates and phosphates under control.

Since you do not have live plants at this stage of the game, you can, as suggested, black out the aquarium for 3 days after an 85% water change. This should kill off the algae as they are unable to photosynthesise in total darkness. However, total darkness will be required: even a small chink of light entering the aquarium on a constant basis could be enough to keep a small population alive, which will bloom again once the blackout is removed.

Once the algal bloom is dead, you will then have the problem of a mini-cycle as the biological filter adapts to the sudden appearance of lots of dead algal cells. Which will potentially stress your fish further. Then, once the mini-cycle has completed, you then have to deal with the new nitrate load (yet another large water change) and set about acquiring some fast-growing live plants to mop up phosphates in future.

Hope this little lot helps you nail the bloom and keep future ones at bay.



Last edited by Calilasseia at 20-Mar-2005 18:44

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Well, if you have guppy moms and dads, you can expect baby guppies at least every 3 weeks. Keep that in mind.

There's no reason you couldn't put the plants back in tonite, is there? The tank needs total darkness for 3 days, so I wouldn't even be tinkering with it, other than to do the water change.

Make sure you match the temp very closely with such a large change.

That is why I am freaking out right now, I jsut took all of the plants and all of the decorations out so that I could clean the whole tank really good and try to get rid of the algae prob then I realized there were babies. Yes, I think they are guppies. Do I need to try to remove them? Or let them fend for themselves?

What kind of fish are these? Are they guppies? Do you have some dense fake plants you can put down so they can hide? If you have green water, they will make a meal of it .

There are fake plants you can buy that give fry hiding spaces.

http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441777354&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302030106&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023693&bmUID=1111533647301

Don't fret if some disappear, it happens all the time. You could get overrun so fast you wouldn't be able to keep up. The strongest will survive if you have hidey places for them.

Last edited by Cory_Di at 22-Mar-2005 17:23

Ok, I just did levels before changing water and they were, nitrite- 0 nitrate- 40 amonia -0 I have never checked levels myslef before just taken it to the lfs to test. Are these levels good or bad? Also as I was doing water change I realized one of my fish had babies, what do I do now? they are so small I could suck them up with the syphen or the bigger fish could eat them! HELP ME!???

Fishy,

Do a 50% water change in the morning and a second in the evening or the following morning. A water change of 85% may be too much if your fish are not accustomed to large water changes.

Live plants are very easy if you choose easy plants. Tropica has a great website full of plant information at http://www.tropica.com. The ADVANCED SEARCH button in the top right corner allows you to plug in the information on your tank. Remember, choose EASY plants.

Yes, CO2 is a great addition for a planted tank, but I will tell you a little secret. I have a planted 125 gallon tank and... I don't have CO2! The lights are bright (over 3 watts per gallon), the plants are healthy and I don't have algae.

Sometimes hobbyists overthink things. Notice the false start on driftwood in this thread. We forget to ask questions. We think everyone should be equipment geeks. Oh well, the fish are pretty and a little knowledge can go a long way with a siphon, a bucket, fesh water, one of those scrubbie things and a pretty good website with information!

__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
researched from Steven Wright

I forgot to ask, is it safe to do a 85% water change? Or will it shock the fish?

Lilfishy, I dragged my feet for two years on DIY co2. In order to take the plunge, I just bought a simple Nutrafin system, but people here can teach you, with pictures how to make up a DIY setup. It's easy. All you need is fresh yeast. If you do buy the Nutrafin system, don't use their yeast. Use 1/4 tsp of fresh, dried yeast from the store. Mine was 2 years outdated when I got the box and I didn't know it. The system wasn't working right until I got fresh yeast. It helps curb algae.

If you want to do it, it is wise to know your kH and pH first.

Last edited by Cory_Di at 21-Mar-2005 11:07

Only certain difficult plants need CO2 injection. There are a number of species that don't need this at all. Java Moss and Java Ferns are two of the easiest to keep alive in an aquarium.

Other plants that will thrive without CO2 injection include Water Wisteria, Hygrophyla and some species of Amazon Swords. All of which I've cultivated successfully without CO2 injection. My fish provide them with all the nutrients that they need.

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Thank you so much for all of your help! I will test water tomorrow and do 85% water change and then black out the tank to see if that works. No, it is not near a window at all, it is on the opposite side of the room. I am a little confused about getting live plants because I read that you have to inject them with Co2 and have no idea what that means or how to do it. I would like to get some, but have little knowledge on what they need. Any advice on that matter? Thankyou for all your help!

I really need help, I can not believe I am having probs already but, I started a 29 gal tank a few months ago now all of a sudden my tank has such a dark color to the water that I can not even see through it. I have done partial water changes all along, cleaned plants, tried everything to try to get it clear, I don't know what else to do, can you help me?

Is your tank near a window that is allowing the sun to shine on the tank? It's sounding like a mega algea bloom.

Dan


Dan

I wonder if it is a really bad algae bloom. Algae blooms can look like pea soup. YOu may also have something called cyano bacteria growing in the tank. It can be blue-green, dark purple, and even black I think. My nephew had cyano in his tank and it was a dark red/purple. Grew fast like soft slime and coated everything.

Your fake plants can do well in a mild bleach solution. I put about 1/4 cup in about 2 gallons of water and just let the fake plants soak in there. Check after 15 minutes and then again at 30 minutes. Remove what you must mechanically.

If it has a green tint at all, then you need to address it as an algae bloom. Cut all light to the tank for 3 days. Cover the tank with a dark towel or blanket, but be careful so that it cannot wick out water. Feed the fish lightly on day 2, and then see how the tank looks after 3 full days of darkness.

How many hours a day do you have the light on?

Lets start there. There are products on the market to treat it, but first we do it as least invasive as possible. When you do your water changes, be sure to gravel vac deep - to the glass. Do 1/3 of the tank one day, do another 1/3 a few days later, then do the last 1/3 a few days after that. Pull things out when you do these sections so you can get it good.

I'd like to know parameters too, but with an 85% change, we really won't know what it was. Specifically, nitrate. However, my nephew had an algae bloom and his nitrate was only 5ppm. I can't imagine just how much nitrate this stuff was consuming. .




Last edited by Cory_Di at 20-Mar-2005 15:22

Does the tank smell like anything?

What are your water parameters?

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I'm not your neighbor, you Bakersfield trash.

The color of the water is brownish/greenish, very murky looking, clearer at the bottom and the worst in the middle. When I took out the fake plants that I have and cleaned them, the color was almost black coming off. Also the filter I have to a topfin 30 and when I wiped the area where the filtered water comes out, that was also almost black. I do not have any wood in there just fake plants and a small neon colored cove. Can I safely do a 85% water change without hurting the fish?

What color is the water? More Brown, Green, or other?

Last edited by Cory_Di at 20-Mar-2005 14:06

I would leave the wood where it is and just add activated carbon to the filter. It will clear your water (if the problem is tannins, that is).

drift wood can change the water color. try doing a 85% change and then try putting on another filter for awhile.

If you do have driftwood and did not pre-soak the wood for several weeks prior to placing in the tank then the tannin in the wood is leaching out into the water.

If this is the case you may want to remove the driftwood and soak in a large container with warm water changing the water and least once daily until the water appears to stay clear.

The only alternative to the above would be to continue doing water changes and running your filters with charcoal to help clear the water.

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Water, taken in moderation, cannot hurt anybody. -- Mark Twain

Are you running a HOB filter? Do you have anything like drift wood in the tank?

Dan


Dan