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  L# Please help. Water conditions going down the tubes.
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SubscribePlease help. Water conditions going down the tubes.
kmpaton
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Registered: 26-Feb-2005
male usa
I posted a while back about my Jewel Cichlids lack of energy. Well, hes doing worse.

He only swims to the top to feed and struggles then. When not eating if he trys to swim he just plops down anywhere and lays there.

Now I have a planaria infestation to boot.

Info:
20gal High
PH 7.0
Ammonia 0.0
NitrIte 5.0
Nitrate 0.0
Temp 77F

Aquaclear 30 filter (foam, carbon, biomax)

Ive been doing weekly 20% changes since I set the tank up a little over a month ago, so that might be the problem. Too many water changes too soon.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Report 
sham
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female usa
How much of the gravel are you vacuuming when you do water changes? Planaria is often the result of uneaten food or alot of waste build up. It's a common pest in fry tanks. I don't think the water changes are the problem. Overfeeding with no cleaning of the substrate could be. With no nitrates the tank could still be cycling or your test kit is off. Did you shake the bottles? Have you changed filter cartridges or cleaned the filter since it was setup?
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
openwater
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male canada
NitrIte 5.0


Are you sure NITRITE was at 5 or was it NITRATE. There is a mjor difference between the two.

Sounds like the tank is not cycle if the test result are correct. I can understand why the jewel is sick also. He is suffering from major nitrite posioning.

RETEST WATER AGAIN, if unsure go to lfs and have testing done there.

If nitrite is that high and really at 5, do a water change of at least 50%. Then add some salt according to directions on box. Salt will help reduce the toxicity of the nitrite. At 5ppm or mg/l nitrite most fish will not last long.

STOP FEEDING for a couple days.!!!

Water changes will slow down the cycle process, but are sometimes nessecary to maintain safer water quality as in your case.
Remove and any organic debris from tank.

Dose with New and Improved Cycle (NIC), biospira, or any other biological starter. This will help speed along cycle.

What are the other tank mates? Is it planted?


Last edited by openwater at 14-Apr-2005 18:33
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kmpaton
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male usa
Yes its NitrItes.

I vaccum the gravel on every water change.

I just dosed it with Biospira.

I shake the bottles and follow every direction. Im using the Aquarium Pharm. Master test kit.

Just the Jewel in the tank ang no live plants.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
openwater
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From what ppl claim biospira works wonders. Did you do that water change? Did you add aquarium salt? That amount of nitrite is really toxic.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kmpaton
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male usa
I did a water change last night.

Im going to test again tonight after I do another 50% water change since I put Clout in to deal with the planaria.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Bob Wesolowski
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male usa
What you are witnessing in your tank is the final phase of the cycle. You stated that you set-up your tank "a month ago". Given 0 ammonia with 5.0 ppm of nitrite, your tank is not mature enough to support your jewel.

Dosing with biospira may help. Doing water changes will help to minimize the stress on your fish. Use Prime at 5 times the normal dose to detoxify your nitrites.

__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
researched from Steven Wright
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kmpaton
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Ive been using Instant Ocean as the salt Ive been adding. Is this ok or just use any type of aquarium salt?
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Bob Wesolowski
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male usa
KM,

I don't see any reason for you to add salt. You need to reduce the level of nitrites and to de-toxify the nitrites. Salt will not affect the toxic level of nitrites.

Now, step away from the salt. Do a 50% water change to reduce your level of nitrites. Use Seachem Prime at 5 times the normal dose to detoxify your nitrates.

Do NOT use AmmoLock or salt. Monitor your nitrite level. Prime will NOT reduce your nitrites, it will molecularly bond them so that they are not as poisonous.

Last edited by bob wesolowski at 15-Apr-2005 11:35

__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
researched from Steven Wright
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kmpaton
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Bob,

Thanks for all the help.

I used salt because Ive read that it will make the Nitrite less toxic.

On my lunch break today I stopped by my LFS and picked up Prime and Cycle. At home I did a 25% water change and put 5ml of Prime in.

I will do another 25% when I get home as I didnt have enough time to do the full 50%.

So at 1ml per 10 gal (20 gal tank) I should be using 10ml of Prime, correct?

Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
sham
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female usa
Salt does help with high nitrites to a point but I've never used it.
If your vacuuming the entire tank every water change your slowing down your cycle. Even in an established tank you only do 25% and no more than 50% or you could end up with a mini cycle. I do 50% since I also have biowheels and haven't seen any ammonia or nitrite afterward. Without the biowheels I'd be sucking out a good portion of the needed bacteria. Biospira is a bit hard to get ahold of but will work and New Improved Cycle helps but won't fully cycle a tank like biospira can. Watch your nitrite levels and do water changes if necessary.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
SpecialK
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female usa
Some debate about salt on here... if you use salt, do not use something like "Instant Ocean" or any other products for saltwater aquaria. Use the aquarium salts for freshwater use.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
openwater
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Without the biowheels I'd be sucking out a good portion of the needed bacteria


A great majority of the bacteria grows on filter media, decor, gravel glass and etc. You would have to worry more about altering water parameters suchs as ph, kh, gh, and etc than you do about losing bacteria when performing large water changes.

I don't see any reason for you to add salt. You need to reduce the level of nitrites and to de-toxify the nitrites. Salt will not affect the toxic level of nitrites.


There is a large amount of literature that suggest salt reduces the toxic affects of nitrite in the amount of one tablespoons per 10 gallon

if you use salt, do not use something like "Instant Ocean" or any other products for saltwater aquaria. Use the aquarium salts for freshwater use.


I use Instant Ocean in my cichlid tanks. If you use Instant Ocean you have to watch for a p.h. increase. The ph is higher than tap water. Docwell's Aquarium salt is marine salt used for freshwater aquarium.

Im going to test again tonight after I do another 50% water change since I put Clout in to deal with the planaria.


I would suggest against using chemicals to kill planaria. They will come back unless you fix the root problem causing them. Reduce feedings and perform proper water maintenance
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kmpaton
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Roger that guys and gals


Thanks
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
sham
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Most bacteria may be in the filter but if I vac 100% gravel I will get ammonia in the next day or 2. It's always been suggested to me to do 25% gravel vac every time and no more. I've also been told not to vac gravel at all while the tank is first cycling. If the bacteria wasn't in the gravel in high amounts then everytime you changed a filter cartridges on filters without biomedia you would end up with a mini cycle. Since that doesn't happen on my 20g or 10g tanks with no extra media in the filter there has to be enough bacteria in the gravel to keep the tank cycled.
Post InfoPosted 26-Jan-2006 11:19Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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