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I did some searches, but I would like some input from you guys.

I have always used water straight from the tap for my water changes, the smaller tanks get the bucket system since the Python is too much. (I add dechlorinators though!)

OK, so here are my thoughts....I have an extra powerhead. So if I use a tube w/ the powerhead attached, I can use that to fill my tanks, correct? I may need to get a stronger one, so I'll have to test it out.

What do you all to hold the water while it's aging? And where do you keep the containers??

Our local water is supposedly some of the best in the country, drinking-wise. And I have mentioned before, it is VERY soft w/ a pH of 7.2 (even a day later).
I would like to up the GH and KH of my water, as both are basically 0....I'm thinking the aged water system gives me a chance to treat that water, prior to adding it to the tanks....good idea? (After I get my tank's raised as well, that way they would match.)

Sorry for all my questions, LoL
Christina

The system I use to store water is a 32 gallon Rubbermaid container with a heater set to the temp I want...

A submersible pump, the best thing ever invented, with a 10-foot length of clear plastic hose allows the tank water to be pumped outside and the water in the can to be pumped back into the tank. Easy.

The pump is a Little Giant, series 2E-38N.

Baking soda can always be added to stored water to bring up the mineral content but, of course, the dosing will also raise the pH.

--garyroland.

Last edited by garyroland at 21-Oct-2004 15:25

Thanks Gary.

I had someone tell me on another forum to add crushed coral to my filter to raise the KH...?

Here is my line of thinking...the less I add to my tank water, the better. And if I do mess with the water to raise the KH and GH, I would rather do it without the fish! I will figure out what I need to do, "fix" the tank once...then I can take care of the water before putting it in the tank tehre after... Or is that not the best idea?

Any input on these products?
Kent Liquid R/O Right (supposedly raises GH)
Hagen pH Stabilizer (raises KH, but I think pH as well)

Rare is the water out of the tap that contains zero minerals...

But, it's always best to keep trops that enjoy soft water. That way no maneuvering of GH, KH or pH takes place.

Since adding chems is always risky business and most likely never works anyway, it's best to leave the water alone.

Any mineral rocks added to the tank or the stored water will eventually raise the mineral content of the water.

However, with zero mineral content of the water, the increase would be minimal or insignificant.

Tropicals presented with pH/hardness-altering chems suffer a metabolism conflict due to the ever changing pH of chemically treated water.

--garyroland.

--Vero Beach, Florida.

At the moment I only have three 10 gallon tanks. So I only need to store 6 gallons of new water. All I use are empty 1 gallon water jugs. And I store them inside my one stand.
In a couple months when I get a larger tank running, I'll have to find a better way. Like garyroland said, a large plastic storage container is the easiest way to go when large water changes are needed.

When testing my tap water, it may initially have some readings for KH and GH, but very low. (The tests I have...add a drop, then add more until it changes color...never takes more than 1 additional drop, if that. More often, I'm done after the initial drop.)

I am worried about the low KH, simply due to the buffering issues.

Water with low mineral content usually has a low pH also...

I would guess your water has more mineral content than you realize.

At the mineral content you claim, the pH should be in the 6.0 range, not 7.2.

--garyroland.

gary,
I have tested my water w/ 2 of my own pH test kits, and had a store test as well. It's always the same between the 3 tests.

I haven't had my KH and GH double checked. I have to go by the LFS at lunch (hehe, it's right in the middle of my 3 mile drive from work to home), so I'll have them test and see if it matches. My pH again as well.

I have the Hagen Master Test kit and some Aq. Pharm tests as well.

I'll post back w/ the results.

Alrighty...

Should be interesting.

--garyroland.

OK, here we go...we both had the same results for the 50 gal tank.

My 50 gallon tank (4 South American Puffers) w/ plants and flourite substrate (tank was set up 1.5 weeks ago):
pH 7.4
KH 10 ppm
GH 30 ppm

Water from the tap (same results for immediate and waiting 24 hours):
pH 7.0-7.2
KH 0-10 ppm (changes to end color on 1st drop)
GH 0-20 ppm (changes to end color on 1st drop)

I have that Kent product that raises the GH....I started to use it when I first set the tank up, but stopped after adding only a small amount. I decided to wait and research.

My puffers prefer harder water, which is why I want to increase that. The KH due to stability.

A tank just set up a week and a half ago has not had a chance to cycle...

And, four Puffers in a 50-gallon will not supply the required ammonia for nitrifying bacteria to feed on, slowing the cycling process or not allowing the process to start at all.

Since the tank is new and you're not dosing NIC, there will be a problem in measuring hardness.

Dose the New Improved Cycle to jump start the cycle and add a few more fish for a proper ammonia supply.

Then after a couple of weeks, do some testing. I suspect the readings will change.

--garyroland.

gary,
Actually the tank is cycled, I used media, water, and decorations from other tanks and added Seachem Stability. (It is similar to Cycle, speeds up the process.) I'm waiting on my Bio-Spira, which I will be adding as a safety measure. (Puffers and cycling do not go together!) I have actually been doing tests daily to keep an eye on them, and I had some traces on nitrites once, now gone. Nitrates are present at a low level. None of my tanks ever go over 5 ppm for nitrates.

Those are the only fish that will be in the tank, I may eventually get a BN, but that's it). I have been feeding them 3-4 times a day, due to low weight (and treating w/ Discomed 2x for IPs).

Now, I have a total of 9 tanks. All the rest are cycled. All of those show the same readings for GH and KH as my tap water... And I test for everything at least once a week on all my tanks. (Hagen Master Kit)

So...ignoring the 50 gallon tank....ideas on why my 8 other tanks have those readings?

Obviously the minerals that create carbonate hardness (KH), carbonate and bicarbonate ion concentrations, are extremely low...

The general hardness (GH), the measure of calcium and magnesium ions dissolved in water are also very low.

Aquariums with low KH, 50ppm or less are usually acidic.

What baffles me is the 7.2 pH. Acidic water, especially with that a low a reading, should read pH's in the 6.0 range and lower.

For some reason the buffering is holding steady which tells me the calcium traces, although minimal, are causing the pH to stay almost neutral.

There's really nothing, short of dosing baking soda, that can safely increase the KH.

--garyroland.



Last edited by garyroland at 22-Oct-2004 20:58

Thanks Gary.
It's odd, since other people around town have different water test results, I have yet to find any like mine. And I have used my test kit at their house, as well.
I'll just play around and see what results I get before I start messing around with the tanks.