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Newcomers to Central American Cichlids are usually faced with certain choices as a 'first Cichlid' from this geographical region, and one of the less fortunate aspects of this selection is that the more commonly available fishes tend to be, shall we say, rather feisty. Some experienced aquarists reading this will regard that as a woeful understatement, but again, one has to remember that these fishes are highly developed, intelligent creatures, with well-developed social hierarchies, intricate breeding behaviour and parental care of offspring, and a VERY strong desire to see those offspring have a fighting chance in what is, in their natural home, a "rough neighbourhood". The mid-sized Mesoamericans not only have to cope with the usual range of Cichlid predators, ranging from big Catfishes, Belonseox belizanus (a ravenous livebearer whose appearance leaves one in NO doubt about its intentions, and which will attack anything up to half its own size) and in some places, juvenile crocodiles, but face predation from bigger Cichlids also, such as Parachormis dovii and some of the other larger Guapotes. Consequently, these fishes have evolved, over several million years, to be tough little critters, in many cases utterly fearless in defence of their offspring, and intolerant of anything that they perceive to be a threat to said offspring. And, like their larger cousins, the mid-sized Mesoamericans have to compete fiercely for 'real estate' when preparing to breed, as the ideal sites for spawning tend to be at a premium, and competition for them is, in some cases, literally cut-throat. Even four week old fry are not averse to reducing the competition by eating their smaller brethren, which means that sorting fry by size becomes imperative with some species, and individuals attaining sexual maturity (males especially, but the females can fight like alley cats in defence of their interests too!) make it pretty obvious that they are in the mating market - usually by resorting to internecine warfare if their quarters are too cramped!

Again, the problem in the aquarium is one of understanding. All too often, some of these Cichlids are bought as "cute" juveniles, placed into a wholly inappropriate community aquarium full of small Characins, Platies and the like, and the moment the Cichlids have acquired some body mass, havoc ensues. Consequently, the fishes are tarred with the reputation of being psychotic, when the fault lies with the inexperienced fishkeeper who did not research the needs of the Cichlids, and their compatibility with other fishes. Perform this task properly, perpare an aquarium suited to their needs, and they can become wonderfully enjoyable fishes, attracting legions of devoted fans around the world. BUT, and I cannot emphasise this too strongly, the aquarist needs to plan ahead (yes, I'm on that theme again), and engage in the research.

Given what I've said above, it should come as no surprise to discover that the mid-sized Mesoamericans are territorial. This is putting it mildly! So, the aquarist intent upon keeping these fishes should be thinking ahead, and planning a spacious home for them, one tailored specifically to their likes and dislikes. Water chemistry (particularly among those species that have been tank-bred for generations) tends not to be too critical, though species from waters flowing over limestone will prefer slightly alkaline and moderately hard water. More important from the standpoint of managing aggression, however, is the furnishing of the aquarium and the maintenance temperature. Mid-sized Mesoamericans become MUCH more aggressive if the temperature is elevated, because temperature rises are regarded by these fishes as a signal to begin breeding, and the "bad tempers" tend to flare most spectacularly during breeding! So, for maintenance, keeping them at something more moderate, such as 23C or 24C, will help cool the flaring Latin tempers! Additionally, aquaria for these fishes should be furnished in such a way that individuals can claim territories without being constantly in view of rivals. When planning the aquarium for these fishes, one approach I would recommend is this: draw a "plan view", and work out how to place rocks, bogwood etc., in such a manner as to break up the aquarium from a "line of sight" viewpoint. Basically, if the fishes can't see each other all the time, they are less likely to come to blows! Furthermore, arranging cover in this manner also increases the chance that individuals lower in the pecking order will have somewhere to escape to.

Once the "furniture plan" has been devised, the next step is to make sure that the carefully arranged furnishings cannot be destroyed by the occupants. Several of these fishes excavate the substrate as part of their breeding behaviour, and some are underwater bulldozers on a scale that contrasts sharply with their more modest size. Several will, indeed, try to rearrange the decor to suit them, which should come as no surprise given the level of intelligence these fishes possess - they know what they want, and quite often set out to obtain this in a determined and resolute manner! With these fishes, one has to engage in a certain amount of psychoanalysis, work out in advance what they are likely to be thinking, and plan accordingly. So, for those fishes that utiliise caves for spawning, which in the wild they will enhance by appropriate substrate excavation, planning the furnishings so that the need for excavation is a minimum in advance will pay dividends later on. And, given that some of these fishes WILL dig, it may be prudent to consider some form of 'engineering bracing' to maintain the stability of the furnishings - sometimes, this may even involve cementing some items to heavy slate to make them immovable!

Next step: filtration. These fishes have heroic appetites in relation to their size, and an equally astonishing capability to produce filter-clogging waste at the other end. Keeping the water clean and free of pollutants will also mitigate aggression, as this is another signal that these fishes use when deciding whether or not to hold the peace or launch into battle. Basically, pollutants equals competing fishes in the mind of the typical Cichlid, and if the level sensed is right, a Cichlid will decide that eliminating opponents carries a low risk to itself, and behave accordingly. Juveniles crowded in dealer aquaria have their instincts suppressed because the level of pollutants tells them, even if they can't see the other fishes, that there are too many opponents for warfare to be 'low risk'. Knocking off the odd one or two opponents is relatively low risk - taking on a small army is very high risk! Consequently, keeping the water clean not only contributes to the health of the fishes in the usual direct manner, but also persuades the occupants, via the aforementioned signalling, that they do not have to go into battle to eliminate unwelcome competition. So, one should be looking at spacious aquaria, with carefully planned furnishings providing caves and other hiding places, and efficient filtration. And, I cannot emphasise this strongly enough again, plan ahead for the total adult size of the fishes. The newly set up aquarium may be spacious enough for 16 juveniles, but once those juveniles become adult, chances are it'll only be spacious enough for 6. And, they will reduce their own numbers accordingly, as described above, before that stage is reached. Plan ahead, don't overstock, and many of the outbreaks of internecine warfare that are possible with these fishes (and likely if kept in inappropriate conditions) will be prevented at source.

So, you've followed the above advice, and you have six bouncing juveniles in a large aquarium. Then they start growing. And mature. Suddenly, it's breeding time. They are pairing off. And their territorial demands increase accordingly. What was a peaceful aquarium, carefully managed by you, can suddenly become an underwater recreation of the Tet Offensive. It may not happen - if you've planned well enough ahead, they might still coexist with no more than occasional ritual posturing. On the other hand, they might decide that the babies they're planning to have will stand a better chance of survival if the opposition is liquidated. Some fishes are more militant in this regard than others. Even within a species, there will be variation, and you might just find yourself having to cope with a set of little psychopaths from the extreme end of the spectrum for your chosen species. Be resolute, and act decisively. If you DO have particularly intolerant fishes in your aquarium, then you'll simply have to thin out the numbers yourself, and find homes for the others, before they thin out their own numbers in a more brutal manner. If your fishes keep the peace, however, then breathe a welcome sigh of relief, but remain vigilant!

Mixing species is possible if space permits, but, be prepared for even more problems if you decide upon a "Cichlid community" instead of a single species setup. Species mixing can be very successful, and result in a stunning display of colourful Cichlids engaging in nothing more dangerous than ritual posturing, keeping those colours shiny and vibrant. Get it wrong, however, and you're back to wielding the big stick to separate the warring factions. Consider this to be very likely should a pair of Cichlids in such a setup start spawning, and be prepared to act as decisively in separating the combatants as they do in wiping out perceived threats to their forthcoming babies.

However, if you have provided enough space, carefully planned furnishings, etc., they may surprise you by raising a family amid the other companions without pressing the red button and going straight to DefCon One. And if they do, pat yourself on the back for the moment on a job well done, while remaining eternally vigilant. Because ... the moment you let slip on the vigilance, that's the moment they'll choose to start charging at each other with fixed bayonets. Trust me - I've seen Convicts in action and when they decide it's time to hoist the battle colours, they do so with a vengeance.

The next problem to be facced once well-conditioned adults breed is the fry. There will be LOTS of them. 500 is a reasonable number for a Convict spawn. Big Dempseys can produce 2,000. And somehow, you're going to have to keep that lot fed. Size wise, this isn't a big worry, because a lot of these Cichlids have fry that can take surprisingly large live foods from the word go. Newly hatched Brine Shrimp will suit most of them fine, and some of them can even take half-sized Daphnia at a surprisingly early age. But if you're faced with 2,000 plus Dempsey fry all clamouring to be fed, you'll have to culture the Brine Shrimp and the Daphnia on an industrial scale to keep them happy! And long before they reach saleable size, you'll have to make a painful decision. Namely, culling. One answer is to let the big fry snack on their smaller siblings. With some species, this is a definite possibility. Looking at it from a purely mercenary point of view, it reduces the need for you to culture food on a large scale, removes the worry of where to house all the fry as they grow, and means you'll probably end up with around 200 juvenile bruisers out of an original spawn of 2,000. But that's Nature red in tooth and claw, and with Cichlids, it gets pretty red at times. It's a decision you'll have to make sometime, whether to let them cull each other, or do so yourself, unless you're lucky and have colossal amounts of fry rearing space for them all. If this upsets you, these fishes probably aren't for you.

On the plus side, however, you'll be treated to a stunning display of advanced parental care, in many cases models of devotion that should make several human beings hang their heads in shame, accompanied by awesomely brilliant adult breeding colours on the part of the parents, and a real sense of empathy watching them if you too have spent sleepless nights changing nappies and tending to your own offspring. Plus, watching the Cichlids herding their fry and fending off potential threats is a lot less messy .

Now, it's time for the mini Baedecker tour. Quite a few of these fishes are commonly available, some less so, but all can be guaranteed NEVER to be boring ... !!!

Convict Cichlid - used to be known as Cichlasoma nigrofasciatum. I'll worry about the name changes some other time! Probably the most commonly available mid-sized Mesoamerican. Available in selectively bred colour forms, as it has been domesticated for years. And, as the most commonly available species, the one that usually gives Cichlids a bad name when inexperienced newcomers drop them in with Neons and Guppies. In a species or "Cichlid community" aquarium containing other robust and rowdy companions, with decent space provision and thoughtful decor, likely to put its militancy on hold, but when breeding, can be ferocious in defence of its eggs and fry. In the wrong setting, however, it can wreak havoc on an epic scale. Usually cited as reaching 4 inches, but can sometimes grow to 5. Easiest of all to breed, and one of the longest domesticated of all Cichlids. Too often taken on by novices, but a reasonable choice as a "first Central American" for those who launch into the enterprise with their eyes open and the brain cells fully engaged!

Jack Dempsey - name changes abound! Once known as Cichlasoma biocellatum, then Cichlasoma octofasciatum, now it's changed Genus again. Gorgeous in adult colouration, and can be a real pet, displaying a level of intelligence that shames quite a few people I know . But, and this is a BIG but, remember how it came to get its name. Boxing fans old enough to remember Jack Dempsey, one of the last white men to hold the title of World Heavyweight Boxing Champion, will tell you that the moment he entered the ring, the red mist descended, and with a vengeance. He had a reputation for ferocity in the ring that wasn't matched until Mike Tyson came on the scene. This fish is capable of appalling brutality if badly kept, and will routinely liquidate opponents in crowded aquaria. Given space and careful planning, it will coexist peacefully with other ruffians, but watch out, because when the red mist descends, it packs a punch worthy of its namesake. Reaches 8 inches, and is thus one of the largest of the 'mid-sized' Mesoamericans. Domesticated for years, will spawn readily, and can produce thousands of offspring. Likely to show excavation tendencies, especially when caring for fry. Big ones absolutely ADORE earthworms! Also, Braz Walker in his 1970's pocket book has a special affection for this species, as is evident to anyone who reads his words on the fish (pages 212-214).

Firemouth Cichlid - scientific name Thorichthys meeki, another "old Cichlasoma" that's been moved, and one that I can remember! Drop it in with Guppies, and mayhem ensues. Alongside the Convict and the Dempsey, however, it's placid. Males are territorial, make no mistake, and the flaring of the bright red branchostegal membranes when two males perform their "you look at my woman and I'll bash your head in" routine is stunning. Can reach 6 inches, but usually nearer 4-5. Less militant it may be, but it will still scrap with the best of them if it's in the wrong setup. Will dig pits for fry, but on a suitably modest scale. A good "first Central American" for those forewarned and forearmed, and a pussycat compared to some of the big bruisers it is related to, but again, should NOT be bought by ill-informed newcomers and dumped in with Guppies!

Rose Breasted Cichlid - a newcomer, still referred to in some books as Cichlasoma longimanus. Not particularly militant, but its size (8 inches) means it can dish out trouble when it's time to rumble. Unusual rose-hued belly and warm colours make it a fish of distinction. Also rare. Not considered aggressive, but one of the Cichlid books quotes Dr Paul Loiselle, who says that this fish will plonk eggs down on a solid surface and dare any other fish to do something about it! Also a rather industrious excavator!

Gold Top Cichlid - I've mentioned this in another Central American Cichlid thread already. Basically a Firemouth with a different colour scheme, exhibiting almost identical characteristics. Rare, deserves to be better known, and when compared with Dempseys, for example, is practically docile. However, it can look after itself, and will again cause mayhem in a badly chosen setup. If you're an experienced Cichlid keeper, and can find this rarity, it will prove rewarding.

Tricolor Cichlid - again known in most of the literature as Cichlasoma salvini, look around for the latest name change! In breeding plumage they are gorgeous, but they are in the Dempsey class as regards tenacity and strength of territorial instinct. Breeding pairs can be savage toward anything perceived as a threat. A good way to deflect this toward a 'safe target' (works for Dempseys and other bruisers too!) is to drop in a couple of dragonfly larvae for the parents to exterminate. An old trick dating from the Innes book days, it works a treat, giving the parents the double satisfaction of defending their fry, destroying a threat, and gives them a meal into the bargain. Reaches 6 inches.

Jade Eyed Cichlid - another one from the Cichlid book from my library, and at 5 inches, another good mid-sized Mesoamerican. Breeding couples can be bad tempered, but usually not too militant. I've already mentioned this in another thread as a vastly underrated fish, deserving to be better known, and this species will immediately appeal to experienced Cichlid keepers because of its unusual colours and good fertility. Produces large broods. Undergoes colour changes when breeding, when females start to look like Convicts, which may cause some management problems if the two species share an aquarium! First time parents can be bad tempered with other fishes while 'learning the ropes' (as mentioned in the other thread) but their aggression is reputed to mellow somewhat with experience. Otherwise, a good "Beginner's Central American".

Intermedium Cichlid - still referred to in the literature as Cichlasoma intermedium, this 6 inch species is VERY distinctive. A peaceful species, possibly even more so than the Firemouth in this company of Cichlids, and a favourite among German aquarists. Basically a white fish with orange on the head, and a large black L-shaped marking on the body that means it cannot be mistaken for anything else - I can't think of another freshwater fish with even remotely similar markings! Thanks to the shape of this blotch (intense in breeding dress), I cannot help but think this should be called the Pipe Wrench Cichlid, because that's what springs to mind when looking at that L-shaped blotch! Not easy to breed, but worth the effort.

Panama Cichlid - referred to in the books as Cichlasoma panamense, this is a fish of contrasts. Juvenlies are pretty dull, but the adults are different again. At 4 inches, one of the smallest of the Mesoamericans, and a real jewel when it takes on its adult colours. Best described as 'peaceful but tenacious', a pair will defend a brood against much bigger opposition. Broods tend to be small (100 is considered a large brood with this species) but they are cared for devotedly. One of the few Mesoamericans that may be safe in a setup other than a species aquarium or Cichlid community, provided companions are chosen with care (i.e., too large to eat!).

Bandit Cichlid - listed as Cichlasoma sieboldii, this is an attractive but troublesome species. Troublesome because non-breeding individuals are pretty peaceful. When breeding, however (at which time they acquire a 'bandit mask' over the face, hence the name) they undergo a real "Jekyll & Hyde" transformation, and breeding pairs are best placed in their own aquarium. Usually open spawners on a sand substrate, they will also lay on flat slates. Usually reach 6 inches in the aquarium but if given enough space, can reach 12 - making them the biggest of the species featured here. Best left to an aquarist with prior experience of smaller and less problematic species, but to an experienced Cichlidophile, could prove to be a species worth adding to the collection.

Finally, some names to check out from the old Innes book, which probably became invalid years ago, but which are allied to some interesting fishes. Cichlasoma cutteri from Honduras at 3 inches is the smallest of the fishes featured here, and is reputed to be almost as docile as the Flag Cichlid, Laetacara curviceps. However, I suspect that the name has LONG since changed, and who knows what this fish is called now! Allegedly capable of raising a brood in a community aquarium without loss or damage to parents, fry or other inmates, which makes it rather special if it can pull this trick off repeatedly! Then, there is Cichlasoma tetracanthus, the Cuban Cichlid, a name which has been used confusedly in Europe in association with the True Texas Cichlid, Herichthys cyanoguttatus, but which in the Innes illustrations differs in body depth from this latter fish. It isn't carpintiseither, because that fish isn't found in Cuba! The Cuban Cichlid to which Innes refers under the name "Cichlasoma tetracanthus" is a fish of 'average' militancy, but with a particularly strong desire to uproot plants even out of the breeding season, and which apparently displays a lot of blue and green colouration in breeding dress, similar to carpintis. The body depth is markedly different, however, and if someone can clear up the identification woes with respect to this fish, then I'd appreciate the update to my knowledge base!

Once again, I hope my foray into the world of Central American Cichlids proves useful to those planning upon keeping these fascinating fishes, and I look forward also to some kind person resolving some of the aforementioned taxonomic woes!

Enjoy!


[span class="edited"][Edited by Calilasseia 2004-08-02 09:20][/span]

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Another excellent article.

As for the confusion between the Texas Cichlid (Herichthys cyanoguttatus), Pearlscale cichlid (Herichthys carpintis) and Cuban cichlid (Nandopsis tetracanthus) well let's see. As a juvenile, the cuban cichlid will look closer to a jaguar than a texas. As the fish matures, the Cuban will still have some resemblance to a jag but should develop an overall white or light grey coloration with a black splotchy pattern all over the body. See this picture for a mature male cuban cichlid.

As for H. cyanoguttatus and H. carpintis well the easiest way to distinguish them is that the spots on H. carpintis are much larger than H. cyanoguttatus. Also, traditionally the H. carpintis' spots are more of a green color than the more blue colored spots of a true Texas cichlid. Here]http://www.tangledupincichlids.com/images/escondidomale2.jpg[/link] is an adult H. carpintis 'Escondido'. Basically the 'Escondido' refers I believe to the collection location and race of the fish. Most species are collected in several different regions and are often classified by their location. [link=Here is a pair of H. cyanoguttatus and if you examine both pics you can see the difference in the size of the spots all over the body.

You also mentioned Cichlasoma cutteri which is now known as Cryptoheros cutteri. This species is very closely related to Cryptoheros spilurum. In fact there are many people that believe they are the same species and that the cutteri is just a rarely seen color morph. We'll have to wait for further study by the experts for a definite answer.

Jason

Thanks for that Jason - so it's a Nandopsis ... some day I really WILL have to visit the big Cichlid sites and revise the taxonomic mess of my data files

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

YOU should make portfolio and sell it over this sight. I would buy one. EXCELLENT articles.

Cal, there is only one site you need to check out and that is this one. From what I can tell this is the most updated taxonomic listing of all cichlids.

Jason

Excellent! This article will be announced.

Jason, the site you posted is excellent, BUT ... I can't find Thysia or Thysochromis in the African Cichlids section! Otherwise, it's excellent - I'll be browsing this one a LOT from now on!

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

I'm not 100% sure if they are as updated as far as africans go. They also didn't have the Teleogramma genus listed. They have recently updated quite a few pics of new world cichlids so they may currently be working on updates for Africans as well.

Jason

Wow!!! Great article.

great to read - but as a new comer to fish in general please could someone tell me how to ounce CICHLID so I don't look daft in the LFS?

Thank you.

Anita.

sick-lid

thank you

Wow, good article ! This is the thread to read for anyone into cichlds as the water quality / aggression link may apply to almost any cichlid I would think.. That was a real thought provoker.

Since the main cichlid experts are in here..
(and this is slightly off topic, my apologies)
What are your thoughts on this African Cichlid ?
Pelvicachromis Sacrimontis
Have any of you kept them before ?


The Amazon Nut...

Never encountered it. A new species for my database!

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Never kept or heard of it, but I'd suspect it can't be too far from P. pulcher (kribensis) or P. taeniatus. Most of the Pelvicachromis genus from what I understand is very closely related and should be cared for in much the same way.

I know that doesn't help much as it is mostly speculation, but if I encountered the fish you asked about I would buy it and care for it as I would care for a krib.

Jason

I have one, I had 2. Instead of putting more about this into this non-related thread, I will pm you.. There is one pic of it on my site, click on my www. I will add more. It's a larger direct relative of the Krib, yes.

[span class="edited"][Edited by DaFishMan 2004-09-03 22:46][/span]

The Amazon Nut...