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cichlidmad![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish Posts: 399 Kudos: 874 Votes: 1 Registered: 20-Aug-2003 ![]() | I know this probably have been covered before but... Does anyone know of points I should consider for my tanks when I move? I will be bagging all the fish (individually whenever possible) and acclimate them as new once I get the tanks running on the new place. Should I keep the substrate, decorations and filter wet/damp? And how long will the bacteria be able to survive? ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Babelfish![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 ![]() | Bacteria should be able to survive about an hour+. If you have a battery operated airpump that will help keep the bacteria oxygenated. My suggestion is to get as many pails, or what I've found to be really handy is the rubbermaid storage totes with the sealing lids. Save as much of the water as possible, especially if your water is going to be a different ph. I'd try to keep the tank cycled, however maybe have a bottle of biospira or Cycle on hand just in case. HTH a bit .^_^ [/font] ![]() |
cichlidmad![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish Posts: 399 Kudos: 874 Votes: 1 Registered: 20-Aug-2003 ![]() | I think the water, if not exactly the same pH would be similar (7.4/7.5). I have a "few" tanks and three are minimum 40UKG. Not sure if I'd be able to get anything big enough to store the water from these and the others. |
Babelfish![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 ![]() | If the waters likely to be pretty much the same, then you may not have to worry about it quite as much. I'd still suggest taking some with you, and or acclimating as if they were new fish. Remember, it's not just the ph of the water but everything else as well. But, since you mentioned the water is likely to be similar, I'd concentrate on keeping the bacteria alive so you don't have to worry as much about cycles and mini-cycles. I'd suggest one or two ( you mentioned they were on the large side) airpumps per tank to help keep the water and bacteria oxygenated. Leave enough water to cover the substrate. Just keep in mind that the shifting water as the tank is moved will cause a different type of pressure on the seals than they are designed for. ^_^ ![]() |
cichlidmad![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish Posts: 399 Kudos: 874 Votes: 1 Registered: 20-Aug-2003 ![]() | Thanks Babel! |
terranova![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fish Master Posts: 1984 Kudos: 1889 Votes: 229 Registered: 09-Jul-2003 ![]() | From Dr. Foster and Smith: "Moving your aquarium can be an arduous task, but with a little planning, the correct handling, and the proper supplies, your fish should make it to their new home with minimal upset. The following guidelines enable you to walk through the process mentally, alerting you to any precautions you need to take to help ensure a smooth transition. Preparation *Discontinue feeding your fish two days prior to the move *Establish a checklist of items you'll need at you new destination, such as pre-mixed saltwater *Acquire several clean 5-gallon buckets that have not housed chemicals or detergents *Designate a space in the moving truck closest to a door for easy access to your aquarium and equipment *Your aquarium should be the last thing you pack, the first thing you take out and set up *Move yor fish seperately from the aquarium Moving fish and other livestock When moving less than one hour from your home, bad your specimens incividually the same way your pet store does. (You may even be able to purchase or ask for the bags there.) Once bagged, keep the fish in the dark to relieve stress. If moving a distance of 1-6 hours away, again bag the fish. But this time, you'll need to add pure oxygen to the bags, supplied by you local fish store. Call ahead of availibility, and agree upon a time. Live plants can be transported in bags, too, whith some of the original aquarium water. Wrap leaves in wet newspaper to prevent drying out, or make sure the plant is completely submerged. Maintain water temperature for you fish and other specimens by placing them, in their sealed bags, within a sealed cooler. Moving the Aquarium When taking down the aquarium, save as much of the water as you can. Use 5-gallon buckets with lids to transport water. Reusing your water cuts the cycling time considerably once you restart the system, and decreases the likelihood of a toxic ammonia spike. Pack your pumps, heaters, and other equipment the way you would pack fragile appliances. Remove the gravel and water and place in 5-gallon buckets to alleviate the stress on the aquarium seams resulting from the bumps and bouncing during transport. Keep your filter media and sponges immersed is some of your aquarium water, as well, to minimize disruption of the bacteria colonies within them. This too helps reduce cycling time. Home at Last Whether your new destination is withing your existing home, or a new location all together, you'll need to work quickly to get your aquarium operating again. Fill it with as much of the old water as you were able to save. Top off with freshwater or pre-mixed saltwater, add a bacterial additive to accelerate cycling, and then get your filters, heaters, and other equipment running. Add your plants and decorations, and test your water parameters. If acceptable, add your livestock after proper acclimation. By following the suggestions above, your chances of success are great. Plan ahead, and move efficiently. Your fish depend on you!" -I edited out the paragraphs about moving within your home or moving more than 6 hours, so if anybody needs them let me know. HTH ![]() ~FF~ EDIT: Spelling...:%) [span class="edited"][Edited by ferretfanatic 2004-08-23 09:16][/span] -Formerly known as the Ferretfish ![]() |
cichlidmad![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Big Fish Posts: 399 Kudos: 874 Votes: 1 Registered: 20-Aug-2003 ![]() | Thanks for that ferretfanatic! Would you be able to add the part when it would take up to 6 hours? |
goldfishgeek![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fish Addict Posts: 667 Kudos: 412 Votes: 38 Registered: 27-Oct-2003 ![]() | when i moved it was a disaster, i couldn't set the tanks quickly and had to re cycle all of them, my pH was wildly different, from 7 to 9. I thought because we where moving wasn't far and had the same water plant etc it would be the same. if i was your i would double check. i wish i had. good luck, GFG ![]() Never be bullied into silence. Never allow yourself to be made a victim. Accept no one's definition of your life; define yourself. Harvey S. Firestone |
terranova![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fish Master Posts: 1984 Kudos: 1889 Votes: 229 Registered: 09-Jul-2003 ![]() | Okay, this is con't from: "Moving the Aquarium For moves further than 6 hours, take our your gravel or substrate and big it with some aquaurium water. Either clean or discard your filter media, but if you do this please remember that your system will have to be treated as new when starting it up again. This necessitates a complete cycling, and only a few hardy species of fish will be able to withstand the cycling process. You should make temporary arraangements for you other fish until the aquarium has properly cycled. My move is scheduled to take several days. What am I going to do with my fish? Some pet stores, for a fee, board fish during a lengthy move. Some will even pack and air-ship them for you once you've arrived. You could ask a friend to board them. Some owners choose to sell their aquarium inhabitants and start over when relocated." HTH -Formerly known as the Ferretfish ![]() |
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