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terranova    Fish Master Posts: 1984 Kudos: 1889 Votes: 229 Registered: 09-Jul-2003   | Did this in some of my free time.  It needs work, it needs comments, it needs help, but I think it's got a good foundation. My goal was to help newbies, instead of having to write a novel of a post each time somebody starts with "I really want to set up a marine tank..."So here it goes--- __________________________________________________ Thinking about starting some sort of marine tank? Hold up! A basic article on starting marines… Some call it the dark side of fish keeping. Others will tell you, “Once you go salty, there’s no turning back.” Typically, this is true. If you thought your freshwater tanks were addicting, think again. The vivid colors of the saltwater fish, inverts and corals are like no cichlid or tetra. They are truly unique and exquisite, and keeping some of these animals requires great care. Something about the fascination of the sea lures many aquarists in to experience a whole different side to the hobby of fishkeeping… Before starting a marine tank, there are several things to consider. One, are you sure you can make this commitment? The maintenance on saltwater tanks can be much more tedious than that of many common community tanks in the freshwater world. In addition, do you have the money to pay for this? Saltwater tanks are considerably more pricey than freshwater ones, initially and in the long run in most scenarios. This is not a cheap hobby. Do you have enough patience and the eager will to learn? A wise aquarist once said, “In a reef tank, only bad things happen quickly.” A majority of new tanks don’t last much longer than a couple months because of the lack of patience. If you have answered yes to these questions, you are quite possibly ready to dive into a whole new adventure. With marine tanks, bigger is better. Why? Wouldn’t it be easier to start with something small, and then go with something bigger? NO!!! These are the most common mistakes by new marine aquarists. It is not a good idea to start small. In bigger tanks, it’s easier to maintain a stable system. Your water quality will be much easier to keep in tip top shape and there is a lot more room for error. In marine tanks, errors tend to be costly. Yes, initially a bigger tank will cost more, but in the long run it will be worth it! When you purchase your tank, you will probably think it to be pretty big and satisfying, but within a couple of months you’re going to hit yourself for not going one size up. And so, this is where we hit the common aquarist disease, MTS. Multiple tank syndrome. It’s basically unavoidable, and there’s no official cure. You may be able to prolong it, but you can never get rid of it. Another common misconception, made by newbies, is that saltwater fish are so much more delicate than freshwater fish. This isn’t entirely true, it’s more that they aren’t as adaptable to shady conditions. The water chemistry is harder to maintain in marine tanks than it is in freshwater tanks. There are more parameters to look at, and more considerations to be made. The reason that the fish are pricier isn’t because they’re that much harder to keep (in most cases) but that they may be found in great depths in which divers must put themselves in great danger in order to collect them. The majority of marine fish in the aquarium trade are collected right from the ocean, whereas freshwater fish are almost always commercially raised. It is important to buy tank raised marine fish when possible. This helps keep the hobby alive while reducing the amount of creatures we must take from the wild. In addition, tank raised fish are more adaptable to aquarium life, therefore having a better success rate. Now you may ask, what is considered a big tank? Personally, I think anything over 50 gallons is a good number to go with. It is important to consider that when choosing a fish tank, you typically don’t want to pay attention to gallonage, but rather surface area. More surface area means more room for the exchange of gases, which means a healthier and happier tank. It is also important to consider what kind of set up you are planning, which will be explained in further depth later. For example, if you are planning on a FOWLR or reef tank, you do not want a narrow tank, but rather something that will be wider and allow for good rockwork. Consider the space you have, and go with the biggest tank you can fit AND afford. That’s your best bet. When choosing a marine tank, it is not always a good idea to buy used tanks. You run many risks here, and the chances that you will be able to find a drilled one, or one without tempered glass that is in good condition are pretty slim. Go with a new tank if you can, that way you are assured that there aren’t any cracks or peeling silicone. Try to get a reef ready tank, that is one with a built in overflow. The most successful reefers, coral propagators, and keepers of marine animals are the ones who get involved with the hobby. Hit the library, read all the books you can. Order some of your own books too, they can be very helpful and nice to have on hand. Make friends with the post it note and mark down things that interest you, or that you would like to learn more about while you’re reading. Browse around to find a reliable local fish store (LFS), and talk with some of the experienced people there. The internet is a great resource tool, but old fashioned books work better sometimes. Always check the copyright date to make sure the information you are absorbing is accurate and updated. The best book 5 years ago may be a terrible read now; new advances and current knowledge are always nice to know about. Join or find out information about a local aquarium club. This is a great way to get connected with people who share your interests, who have learned from their mistakes, and tend to be very experienced. Don’t be intimidated; reef clubs are typically very welcoming and try to make each member feel at home. Reef clubs are also a great way to get equipment; there are often raffles and people who have spare equipment just laying around. You can participate in frag swaps and learn a great deal from being involved in a reef club. Often, you will receive “connections” and this may be just the place to find that new frag you wanted… When keeping marine aquaria, you basically have three tank options. FO, FOWLR, or reef. Each is unique and can provide it’s owner with superfluous joy if set up correctly. The first type of tank, FO, stands for fish only. This is the easiest type of marine tank. It has, like its name implies, no corals and usually no inverts. The typical FO tank has some sort of marine substrate, and synthetic or dead corals for décor. Filtration is usually accomplished by a canister filter or a good quality HOB (hang on back) filter, or a combination of the two. Like all marine tanks, circulation should be provided. Lighting depends solely on your own preference. Simple fluorescents will do; you need enough light only to satisfy your goals and achieve the look you desire. The second type of tank, FOWLR, stands for fish only with live rock. This is the second easiest type of marine tank to care for. The difference between a FO tank and a FOWLR tank is that in the latter, you do not need a filter to provide your biological filtration. This is what the live rock does. FOWLR tanks are often the kind of set up we need for keeping larger aggressive fish, such as triggers or groupers, that tend to be anything but reef safe. Live rock, ironic as the name sounds, is a living biological filter. It provides a home to dozens of microscopic organisms, to plants, to corals, to all sorts of critters. Some of the most amazing hitchhikers can be found in fresh shipments of live rock, the possibilities are endless. Live rock typically demands more intensive light when compared to a FO set up. For effective biological filtration in a marine tank by LR, you want to go with at least a 1lb/1gal of the most porous rock available. The less porous the rock is, the more you will need for effective filtration. It’s as simple as that. Common high quality LR in the aquarium trade today is that from Fiji, Tonga, Marshall Island, etc. In addition to constantly filtering your tank your LR will provide a space for live foods, such as copepods and mysid shrimp to cultivate. Some fish, such as the treasured mandarin fish, will not survive without this natural food. LR is basically the foundation of your tank--- It’s a bed for corals and anemones, it’s a place for your fish to scavenge and your inverts to hide, it’s a place for healthy algaes to grow, it’s a thing no marine tank should be without! It adds to the natural appearance of the tank, and makes everyone feel at home. Put in a pound per gallon to start, and then add more to fill out the tank as needed. Make sure that new rock going into established displays is cured first. In new tanks, LR is a great way to cycle. The third and most difficult type of marine tank is the reef tank. These are often the tanks that make our jaws drop and eyes widen. They consist of complex rockwork, fish, and countless other critters. Reef tanks are home to our softies, our LPS and SPS corals, the occasional anemone, clams, tube worms, feather dusters, the list goes on and on! Depending on what you plan to keep, water quality, lighting and circulation suddenly become the most critical aspects. Light intensity must be extremely high for many of the SPS corals, such as those from the Acropora family. Several types of Tridacnid clams love the light as well. Typically, lower light corals still require a minimum of at least 3wpg. Moderate light corals should have around 4wpg, and intense light corals should have over 5wpg. Lighting in the coral reef tank can be achieved in many different ways. Some names or options you might here are fluorescents/compact flourescents, T5’s, HO (high output), VHO (very high output) and MH (me Corals more than anything else will require some sort of current in the tank. The elimination of “dead” spots in marine tanks is achieved by the use of different types of powerheads and/or wavemakers/surge devices. Yet again, the types of corals you are planning to keep and the amount of money you are willing to spend will decide how you circulate your tank. It’s wise to look into manifolds and units like Oceans Motions and Tunze for ideas. FOWLR and reef tanks bring us to a new type of filtration, protein skimming. These special filters are designed for saltwater tanks only, and remove a majority of the “nasties” and organic pollutants we may see (or not see!) in our tanks. Ever take a trip to the beach and see foam wash crashing along the shoreline? A protein skimmer is the aquariums way of accomplishing this act. There are several things to keep in mind when choosing a skimmer. One of course, depends on how much you’re willing to spend. A good quality skimmer will often be a little pricey, but well worth the investment. When browsing skimmers, pick the right type of model, either HOT (hang on tank) or an in-sump design. Go with a design that allows for easy maintenance. Depending on your tank size and bio load, you will need to empty the skimmer cup usually once a week or so. An efficient model should be easy to clean, pleasing to the ear, and adaptable to your system. No two tanks are exactly the same, so a skimmer that works well on one tank may not be as effective in another. Keep in mind that it is always better to over-skim than to under-skim to some extent. It’s generally safe to always go at least one size up from the one that “fits” your tank. Protein skimmers are not a necessity in marine tanks, but they certainly have their benefits. Types of water purification are often tried in marine tanks to further purify water and solve algae problems. This means RO, DI, and a combination of the two. Reverse osmosis units blast water through a semi permeable membrane in order to break the molecules down and eliminate contaminants. De ionization units often work in conjunction with RO units to even further purify the water. You can buy your own RO and DI units if you are willing to invest that money. Or, many local fish stores will sell you this purified water by the gallon. The only downside to this is lugging 5 gallon buckets back and forth. As with any fish tank, temperature control is a big issue. In order to get it “just right” we need to use heaters and sometimes chillers. The general rule for choosing a heater is 5watts per gallon. With larger tanks, it’s often better and necessary to use multiple heaters. Make sure that the brand you choose is durable and reliable. Check out product reviews and manufacturer guarantees. Get fully submersible heaters with exact temperature dials so that there is no guesstimating involved. In addition, have an accurate thermometer so you can make sure your heaters are working well. Tanks that get too warm because of lighting and excessive heat produced by pumps and other equipment may need a chiller. Chillers vary in price mostly by size and brand. Tanks in rooms without air conditioning are often good candidates for chillers. A tank with a temperature too high (or vice versa) may suffer devastating effects, but it’s important to remember that the best temperature is a stable one. Some people love the feeling of sand in between there toes, others cant stand it. It’s the same with fish tanks. Some corals, clams, anemones, etc. require a DSB (deep sand bed) in which to bury their ba All new tanks must go through the nitrogen cycle. The nitrogen cycle is started off by the addition of ammonia, which is toxic to fish. To combat the high ammonia levels, a bacteria called nitrites will form. These too are toxic to fish, so our nitrates will soon form to combat them. Nitrates are toxic to fish too, but at much higher concentrations. The tank is considered cycled with the ammonia and nitrites are at zero, or undetectable, and the nitrates have risen to a controllable amount. This can take anywhere from several days, to several weeks, to upwards of over a month. Cycling time depends on the method you use, and the size of your tank. It used to be common to cycle marine tanks with hardy fish, typically several common varieties of damsels. This is often considered somewhat cruel though, so there are alternate ways. You can drop in a cocktail shrimp from your grocery store, as these are from the sea but already dead. There are a lot of beneficial bacterial additives proven to reduce cycling time. Such products would be things like New & Improved Cycle, or Bio-Spira. These are good things to use in FO tanks. In FOWLR and reef tanks, the best way to cycle seems to be with LR and/or a combination of LS. LR rarely can be purchased when it is 100% cured, so why not just cure it in your main display, while cycling at the same time? It kills two birds with one stone, and although the tank may not be gorgeous for the first couple of days, it will soon. In order to monitor the levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, pH, and more, you will need test kits. Many local fish stores provide testing of aquarium water for free, but it is always best to have your own. This way, you don’t need to run out in the event of an emergency, and you don’t have to worry about getting to the store at a specific time. For a first tank, it is advisable to get a master test kit. In a saltwater master test kit, you want to make sure you get ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, high range pH, and KH, or alkalinity. For reef tanks, you also might want to considering having a lab quality test kit (yes, there is a price to pay for accuracy!) for calcium, iodine, strontium and magnesium. But wait! Isn’t there something else we should be testing for…? How about the salinity, or SG (specific gravity) of the saltwater? This can be done in two ways, by using a hydrometer or a refractometer. Whichever you choose should be calibrated amongst one that you know is accurate. This means asking your LFS or a fellow aquarium owner or friend for help. False readings can be fatal, accuracy is key. I’d recommend hydrometers for community style FO tanks. They are relatively cheap and easy to find. Refractometers are definitely pricier, but well worth it for tanks containing rare coral frags and/or rarer specimens. Usually it’s safe to calibrate a hydrometer and then test it with the refractometer weekly for continued accuracy. All in all, the basic water chemistry of a marine tank should be somewhere in this range: Temperature- 78*F-82*F Salinity- 34-36ppm SG- 1.023ish pH- 8.2-8.3 Alkalinity- 6-11dKH Ammonia- zero NitrIte- zero NitrAte- <20mg/L Phosphate- <0.05mg/L Calcium- 375-475mg/L Dissolved Oxygen- >6.90mg/L Remember that there is more than one way to do things, and the ocean is a very diverse place. What works for one aquarist may not work for another. Remember that stability is crucial. Sumps, fuges, refugiums, what the heck are all those things?! You may or may not have heard these terms before, as they are one possible similarity between freshwater and saltwater tanks. Though much more common in marine tanks, they do exist in both. Remember we talked about RR tanks? Those tanks have a special overflow, which travels down into another holding container, called the sump. Sumps are very beneficial to reef systems. Not only do they dramatically increase water volume, helping to stabilize conditions, but they hide equipment, such as skimmers and heaters, provide a place for live foods (those pods and mysid!) to grow, provide a home to macro and microalgae, the choices for sump usage are endless. Inside the sump, you may have a connected refugium. This is typically the area where the plants and algae are kept for vegetable filtration. Often plants will help to suck up nitrates and do their natural part in filtering. Set ups like this will typically have a sand bed and a couple of pieces of live rock too. Depending on what you want to use your sump for depends on how you set it up. Typically the lighting doesn’t need to be anything above standard flouros. Most of the time the sump is underneath the main display, so nobody ever even sees it. I think that covers most of the basics…now for the fun stuff. Stocking!!! For the last time, your entire set up is ba Corals are nearly a whole different story. Not only will you need to know their dietary needs, that expands to whether or not they are photosynthetic, which relates to the light intensity they need, and placement in the tank. In addition, some require higher flow rate than others. If you have poor circulation, it does not make much sense to choose corals that are used to frequent tidal changes. Note their stinging ability, and especially in the case of anemones, note any aggression. Yes, it may look pretty and happy in the display tank at the store, but chances it’ll look that way in your tank? That’s what your job as an aquarist is to find out. Acclimation…anyone who has kept fish before knows how important the acclimating process can be, especially to more sensitive fish and inverts. Acclimation time of saltwater critters should always take at least one hour, longer can never hurt. There are basically two methods of acclimation. The easier one is the floating bag method. The more difficult one is the drip system. Each aquarist usually ends up modifying their own way of acclimating. For best results, all new specimens should be quarantined for at least 24 hours following acclimation. Other random things to think about. Generators- what are you going to do in the event of a power failure? Just remember, the key to success is very simple. Have patience, be committed, and be willing to spend money. Heck, I think my fish eat better than I do! A dedicated aquarist is one who is willing to be creative and always thinking. Do not be sucked into the “buy now, upgrade later” policy, it’s no good. Keep in mind that in a reef tank, nothing happens quickly. Dive into resources, take advantage of every book, magazine, documentary, etc. There’s no such thing as a stupid question. Understand that in this hobby, nobody is truly an expert. There are so many areas to learn about, nobody can possibly know everything. This hobby requires that you’re constantly on your toes, and constantly learning. Todays hot equipment can be tomorrows garbage! All in all, have fun with it. Enjoy your slice of the ocean! It’s a true privilege to have something this close to nature thrive in your own home. Appreciate it, care for it, love it. Quick things to remember---(thanks to Anthony Calfo and NERAC) -Dilution is the solution to pollution, water changes are key! -Form follows function! Helpful links: http://www.marinedepot.com http://www.marinedepotlive.com http://www.drsfosterandsmith.com http://www.liveaquaria.com http://www.reefcentral.com http://www.oceansmotions.com http://www.phishybusiness.com http://www.thatfishplace.com http://www.purearagonite.com http://www.saltwaterfish.com http://www.wetwebmedia.com http://www.algaeba http://www.coralrealm.com http://www.fishba http://www.reeffrontiers.com I’d like to leave off with this quote by Anthony Calfo, which I call: The Fishy Psalm “I pray that your sacrifice into captivity, and that of all our aquarium dependents, is for a truly greater good. Through education, discipline, responsible husbandry and respect for life at large, perhaps we may return more than we’ve taken.” -Ferretfish ©2005 ___________________________________ EDIT: For grammar/spelling, formatting, making things "clickable." Last edited by Ferretfish at 25-Apr-2005 19:58 Last edited by Ferretfish at 25-Apr-2005 19:59 -Formerly known as the Ferretfish  |
 Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 |     |
iltat Mega Fish Posts: 1076 Kudos: 1216 Votes: 0 Registered: 14-Oct-2002  | Well, one thing that stuck out to me was that nitrite is not a bacteria, it's (I believe) NO^3, a chemical compound... Other than that, my only recommendations are to break some of it up a little better (kinda with chapter markers), link some terms to definitions (if it was on a seperate page, not this forum), and bold or italicize some of it... Otherwise, fantastic article sweetie! PM/email/msg me if you have any questions/comments regarding me or my knowledge or if you want me to read a thread. |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 |     |
| terranova Fish Master Posts: 1984 Kudos: 1889 Votes: 229 Registered: 09-Jul-2003 | Well, one thing that stuck out to me was that nitrite is not a bacteria, it's (I believe) NO^3, a chemical compound... Really? Hmprh. They give us the impression that it's a bacteria in biology...I'll check up on that and reword it if necessary. Other than that, my only recommendations are to break some of it up a little better (kinda with chapter markers), link some terms to definitions (if it was on a seperate page, not this forum), and bold or italicize some of it... Yeah, maybe I'll headings for it. When I typed it, I did it in word, and I had things bolded/italicized/underlined but I didn't put in the mark up for it so when I posted here it just got lost.  What definitions would you like to see linked...? Thanks Billy.  [hr width='40%'] Life’s tough, Get a helmet. -Formerly known as the Ferretfish |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 | |
SheKoi Fish Addict Posts: 667 Kudos: 553 Votes: 4 Registered: 11-Feb-2004  | Great artical NO3 is a chemical compound produced by nitrifying bacteria, that feed on ammonia and NO2. So when cycling we are increasing the numbers of these bacteria, once ammonia etc = zero this means that the amount of bacteria using ammonia equals the amount of ammonia produced by the fish. www.blooming-brilliant.co.uk |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 | |
| iltat Mega Fish Posts: 1076 Kudos: 1216 Votes: 0 Registered: 14-Oct-2002 | I'll be analyzing throughout the day (since I can sneak some FP time at work now that I'm changing projects and they removed a lot of the blocks off of the internet...and my class is terribly boring... Thought I would mention this one right now, while I have 5 minutes or so to kill before work...With marine tanks, bigger is better. Why? Wouldn’t it be easier to start with something small, and then go with something bigger? NO!!! These are the most common mistakes by new marine aquarists. It is not a good idea to start small. In bigger tanks, it’s easier to maintain a stable system. Your water quality will be much easier to keep in tip top shape and there is a lot more room for error. In marine tanks, errors tend to be costly. Yes, initially a bigger tank will cost more, but in the long run it will be worth it! When you purchase your tank, you will probably think it to be pretty big and satisfying, but within a couple of months you’re going to hit yourself for not going one size up. And so, this is where we hit the common aquarist disease, MTS. Multiple tank syndrome. It’s basically unavoidable, and there’s no official cure. You may be able to prolong it, but you can never get rid of it. This paragraph is a little broad. While it definitely applies to marine tanks, it also is very evident in freshwater systems. I wouldn't include this paragraph (completely) in this article for a focus aspect. Decide whether your focus is on freshwater keepers who are moving to the dark side or complete newbies to aquariums. Deciding which will be your main focus will help determine how much beginner-type material you need to include (such as commenting on MTS )...PS: ADAM/MODS, in order to prevent racking up my post count, I'll just edit this post as necessary (hopefully) as I finish my editing of the article... That also means to just read this post for the next day sweetieEDIT 1.................................................... For example, if you are planning on a FOWLR or reef tank, you do not want a narrow tank, but rather something that will be wider and allow for good rockwork. Regarding this statement, this is where definitions and explanations come in handy. This statement mentions the common saltie term of FOWLR. Now, I know that FOWLR stands for Fish Only With Live Rock, but this is the first time FOWLR appears in your article. On the VERY FIRST appearrance of an acronym such as this, it should be followed immediately by the definition of what that aronym stands for. After that, the acronym can be used without concern, though I would recommend that every time FOWLR appears, a link be attached to another page that includes all the definitions/acronyms, just in case the person forgets... Also, by explaining what the acronym meant, you set up the perfect opportunity for your first definition. This would also be the first time that the term live rock appears. A hyperlink to a definitions page would be nice in that spot again... The most successful reefers, coral propagators, and keepers of marine animals are the ones who get involved with the hobby. Hit the library, read all the books you can. Order some of your own books too, they can be very helpful and nice to have on hand. Make friends with the post it note and mark down things that interest you, or that you would like to learn more about while you’re reading. Browse around to find a reliable local fish store (LFS), and talk with some of the experienced people there. The internet is a great resource tool, but old fashioned books work better sometimes. Always check the copyright date to make sure the information you are absorbing is accurate and updated. The best book 5 years ago may be a terrible read now; new advances and current knowledge are always nice to know about. Join or find out information about a local aquarium club. This is a great way to get connected with people who share your interests, who have learned from their mistakes, and tend to be very experienced. Don’t be intimidated; reef clubs are typically very welcoming and try to make each member feel at home. Reef clubs are also a great way to get equipment; there are often raffles and people who have spare equipment just laying around. You can participate in frag swaps and learn a great deal from being involved in a reef club. Often, you will receive “connections” and this may be just the place to find that new frag you wanted… This is a great closing statement for the article. It appears pretty close to the front of the article, but the attitude of it, which is directing people to more information makes it an ideal closer. Also, another perfect spot for a definition when you use the word frag for those who are curious what a frag is... This is the easiest type of marine tank. Errrr...I wouldn't necessarily say this is THE easiest under all circumstances. I'd recommend saying that this is GENERALLY the easiest (otherwise, someone who attempts to run an FO and has all their fish die may not feel comfortable with trying FOWLR because, "If I couldn't keep the easiest type alive, there's no way I could do FOWLR."... Lighting depends solely on your own preference. Simple fluorescents will do; you need enough light only to satisfy your goals and achieve the look you desire. ...or the specific requirements of your fish...e.g. deep-water fish... Common high quality LR in the aquarium trade today is that from Fiji, Tonga, Marshall Island, etc. I wouldn't put etc. in this statement since I don't know what would qualify as etc... The third and most difficult type of marine tank is the reef tank. These are often the tanks that make our jaws drop and eyes widen. I would be careful with opinions. The tank that makes my eyes widen and jaw drop is a shark tank, not a reef tank. I don't really have much interest in reef tanks, so this is kind of a tough comment to back up... Light intensity must be extremely high for many of the SPS corals, such as those from the Acropora family. I actually don't even know what SPS corals are. I know there's another type (and it's mentioned in your article), but as reef tanks don't really interest me as much, I've never researched these. As it is, the only explanation as to what these are is that you include the family names. Might want to go a little more in-depth with these... All in all, the basic water chemistry of a marine tank should be somewhere in this range: I'd put a disclaimer in here that states that it may be different depending upon the inhabitants... I'll return for Edit 2 in a bit... Last edited by iltat at 26-Apr-2005 18:37 PM/email/msg me if you have any questions/comments regarding me or my knowledge or if you want me to read a thread. |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 | |
| terranova Fish Master Posts: 1984 Kudos: 1889 Votes: 229 Registered: 09-Jul-2003 | Thanks Billy. While it definitely applies to marine tanks, it also is very evident in freshwater systems. Indeed...that may be true, but I think it's much more important in marine. It's a LOT easier to set up a ten gallon fw than a ten gallon sw...and be successful. That's why I stress it. Yes it applies to both, but it's more important in marine IMO. [hr width='40%'] Life’s tough, Get a helmet. -Formerly known as the Ferretfish |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 | |
DarkRealm Overlord    Moderator metal-R-us Posts: 5962 Kudos: 2166 Registered: 23-Sep-2002  | Liana...I would add something about when cycling how it is important to watch ammonia and nitrite levels and take action with a water change if they start to rise to high. With uncured rock this WILL happen. Water changes are needed because the ammonia and nitrites will kill of weak critters, or ones that are not at a high population on the rock. Also note that doing water changes may make the cycle take longer and that the bioload handling wont be as good as it would have been if they would have let the ammonia stay high. Stock slowly! PH, alk, and calcium are very important when cycling....it is believed by some that it doesnt matter, but it does! Im not saying that the levels have to be perfect, but one should do everything they can to keep them as close to "normal" operating conditions. No need for a drop in PH to wipe out a whole species of critters that could benefit the tank. Stocking of the new tank....many people, myself included believe that you should wait a minimum of 6 months before introducing any plankton eaters/carnivores....Use the first 6 months to add fish that graze on algae if you wish, and take the time to let the tank stablize. If you introduce carnivores too soon, many critters will be wiped out by the fishes natural picking at the rock. Let them build up to health populations before adding carnivores. Ill post more later...Im beat from moving all day. Over all, great article! Im proud of how much you have learned over the course of the last couple months  [hr width='40%'] Hoping you are dreaming of me too... Someday the miles will be less and we will dream together Your heart and mine Always and Forever... |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 | |
| terranova Fish Master Posts: 1984 Kudos: 1889 Votes: 229 Registered: 09-Jul-2003 | Billy...you mean there's more coming? Oh great.  No, I do appreciate your help. It's just frustrating, ya know? I'll take into consideration some of the things you said. I thought I explained what FOWLR was? I guess that may have been later down in the article. Oops. >.< I'd make a terms/definitions page...but I'm not really sure how to do that...If you want to help me, then by all means lets do it. Nate...some very good points you've brought up. It's hard when writing an article, because there's always more you can add, but it's hard not to get in over your head. Also, at this point, some things just come so naturally in your own brain, you don't even think to state them. Ya know? My goal for this was to make it sort of a crash course for newbies. It's basically a collection of everything I've learned so far, without going into greath depth. It's so long that I'm feeling even to lazy to make corrections. >.< And I still have to go through and bold/italicize/underline things. Uggg... It's a good thing we have the week off from school!  Thanks for the tips, both of you. I'll be working on it. Maybe when it's finished Adam will post it. [hr width='40%'] If genies were real and wishes came true, I’d rub the bottle and be holding you, I’d close my eyes, wish upon a star, open my eyes, and there you are… -Formerly known as the Ferretfish |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 | |
| terranova Fish Master Posts: 1984 Kudos: 1889 Votes: 229 Registered: 09-Jul-2003 | Oh...forgot to mention this. One of my friends in my reef club has this big thing against the wpg rules in marine tanks, because of all the different types of bulbs and whatnot. I dont really blame him. So I edited the article in Word and replaced all the "wpg" business. Do you guys think I should do that here too? Think it'd be better, or do you think I should just leave it the way I have it? There's so many ways to do things in this hobby. Why does it have to be so confusing all the time?!? :%) [hr width='40%'] If genies were real and wishes came true, I’d rub the bottle and be holding you, I’d close my eyes, wish upon a star, open my eyes, and there you are… -Formerly known as the Ferretfish |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 | |
| DarkRealm Overlord Moderator metal-R-us Posts: 5962 Kudos: 2166 Registered: 23-Sep-2002 | WPG is an OK tool to use to get a general idea except when using MH. You might want to point that out, and also point out that depth of the tank will factor into that also. For a beginner who doesnt really understand lighting that well wpg is a good reference. [hr width='40%'] Hoping you are dreaming of me too... Someday the miles will be less and we will dream together Your heart and mine Always and Forever... |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 | |
| DarkRealm Overlord Moderator metal-R-us Posts: 5962 Kudos: 2166 Registered: 23-Sep-2002 | I'd make a terms/definitions page...but I'm not really sure how to do that...If you want to help me, then by all means lets do it. Just do it as a seperate post and you can add the link to your article. AC=Activated Carbon, or Alternating Current ALK=Alkalinity, measure of buffering capacity of water BOD=Biological oxygen demand BTA=Bubble Tip Anemone Ca=Calcium CaCl2=Calcium chloride CaCO3=Calcium carbonate Ca(OH)2=Calcium hydroxide CBS=Coral Banded Shrimp CC=Counter current(when referring to skimmers) CC also = Crushed Coral CCS = Chocolate Chip Star Cl=Chlorine CO2=Carbon dioxide CO3=Carbonate CTA=Cellulose triacetate, type of RO membrane Cu=Copper CYANO=Cyanobacteria DC=Direct current DD=Downdraft, type of protein skimmer DI=Deionisation, type of water purification DIY=Do it yourself dKH=Degrees of carbonate hardness, measure of alkalinity DO=Dissolved oxygen DOC=Dissolved organic compound DSB=Deep sand bed Fe=Iron FO=Fish only FOWLR=Fish only with Live Rock FW=Freshwater GAC=Granular Activated Carbon GAL=Gallon GPH=Gallons per hour GSP=Green Star Polyps GPL=Green Polyp Leather HCO3=Hydrogen carbonate HO=High output fluorescent light HT=Hospital Tank HOT=Hang On Tank HYPO=Hyposalinity I=Iodide I2=Iodine ID=Identity IO3=Iodate IR=Infrared, type of light with longer wavelength than visible light KALK=Kalkwasser, German for calcium hydroxide solution or limewater KI=Potassium iodide LFS=Local fish store LHS=Local hardware store LPH=Litres per hour LPS=Large polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral OR LPS=Local Pet Shop LR=Live rock LS=Live Sand LT=Litre MEQ/L=Milli-equivalents per litre, measure of alkalinity Mg=Magnesium MG/L=Milligrams per litre MH=me MJ = Maxijet powerhead MO=Mail order Na=Sodium NaCO3=Sodium carbonate NaOH=Sodium hydroxide NH3=Ammonia NH4=Ammonium NNR=Natural nitrate reduction, reef setup technique NO=Normal output fluorescent light NO2=NitrIte NO3=NitrAte NSW=Natural seawater O2=Oxygen ORP=Oxidative redox potential PBT=Powder Blue Tang PC=Power compact, high intensity fluorescent light pH=Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, equal to -log[H+], (7 acidic, =7 neutral,)7 basic PH=Powerhead, water circulator PO4=Phosphate QT=Quarantine Tank PPM=Parts per million, equivalent to mg/l (milligrams per litre) PVC=Poly vinyl chloride, used for piping/plumbing RO=Reverse osmosis, type of water purification RO/DI=Reverse osmosis, followed by deionisation, type of water purification RTN=Rapid tissue necrosis SAL=Salinity SG=Specific gravity SHO=Super high output fluorescent light, equivalent to power compact fluorescent Si=Silicon SiO2=Silicon dioxide SPS=Small polyped Scleractinian (stoney) coral Sr=Strontium STN=Slow tissue necrosis SW=Saltwater/seawater TDS= Total Dissolved Solids TFC=Thin film composite, type of RO membrane UV=Ultra violet, type of light/ultra violet sterilizer VHO=Very high output fluorescent light W=Watts [hr width='40%'] Hoping you are dreaming of me too... Someday the miles will be less and we will dream together Your heart and mine Always and Forever... Last edited by DarkRealm Overlord at 28-Apr-2005 00:25 |
| Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:40 | |
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