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2 things.

Harliquins have apparently been reclassified so they are no longer a rasbora.. but i have no idea what they are

And Kuhli loaches stay small too but do have a tendency to scoot up into your filter.

For animals, the entire universe has been neatly divided into things to (a) mate with, (b) eat, (c) run away from, and (d) rocks. - Terry Pratchett

Ah, yes, heard about the reclassification of our old friend the Harlequin. Still makes a good beginner's choice though. And if it isn't a Rasbora, then what on earth do we do with Rasbora vaterifloris, the Sri Lanka Fire Barb?

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

IMO the Trigonostigma genus (Rasbora heteromorpha's new genus since 1999) can still be considered a rasbora genus, since it's other members are all fish that have also been only considered rasboras (eg T. espei, T. hengeli).

--------------------------------------------
The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian.

And doubly so if the new Genus is still in the Subfamily Rasborinae ...

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Fish Species For Beginners

After I posted the Things To Avoid topic, one of my respondents suggested that I post a topic that was, in effect, the flip side of the coin, namely species that could be recommended to a beginner. So, after due deliberation, here is my considered list of suitable species.

Preamble

The first note, before launching into the species list, is this: virtually all of the fishes listed here are relatively small fishes. Some beginners may be fortunate enough to begin with a large aquarium, and may therefore be equipped to tackle somewhat larger species than those listed here. However, I would personally advise against moving straight to bigger fishes for one very good reason: small fishes are in the main more manageable. And, for those beginners with a large aquarium, small fishes offer the possibility of a truly stunning display, particularly as many of the 'recommended' species in this list are shoaling fishes. With a large aquarium and small fish species, one can have large shoals (12 or more of a given species) and the resulting display will look truly spectacular, especially in the case of a large shoal of Cardinals, Rummy-Noses or Harlequins. If the beginner is fortunate enough to start with a 6 foot aquarium, stocking this with shoals of 20 or so of Tetra or small Barb species will contribute enormously to the "river in the living room" effect!

Plus, by restricting one's choices to fishes that mostly remain under 3 inches long as adults, there are likely to be fewer compatibility worries. One of the maxims that a beginner should adopt early on in the game is this: big fishes will eat small fishes. If the small fish can fit in the big fish's mouth, chances are that's where it will end up. If all the fishes are of a similar size, this removes at a stroke that particular complication. The fewer complications a beginner has to cope with at the start, the better: the learning curve will be less steep, there will be more chances of success and fewer routes for the dreaded Murphy's Law to apply. So, at the start, stick to smaller species, and move on once skills have been acquired with those. Once again, I'm going to harp on my familiar themes of exercising patience (as I did with my current main aquarium), and doing the research before launching into creating and then managing what is, after all, a complex living system.

Having said the above, I'm going to recommend that beginners adopt the naturalistic approach from day one, and strive to create a realistic looking natural body of water for their fishes. Which, in my book, involves live plants and bogwood furnishings. This might seem at variance with the maxim above about avoiding extra complications, but is in my book good practice for one compelling reason: fishes are happiest in natural looking surroundings. Put fishes (certainly the species I'm going to recommend) in an aquarium with live plants and strategically arranged bogwood, and they'll be happier from day one because this kind of aquarium will more closely resemble their native waters. If fishes are in natural looking surroundings, they'll be less stressed, and if they are less stressed, they'll be better able to ward off diseases and cope with minor management mistakes on the part of the beginner. Live plants have another plus point: they absorb nitrates and phosphates from the water as their nutrients (although there are limits on their capacity in this regard) and make for a more complete biological cycle in the aquarium. Oh, and as I've mentioned bogwood, make sure it's cured before putting it in the aquarium. Remember what I said above about patience - bogwood takes three months to cure properly, but if that patience is exercised, the end result will be happier fishes. Plus, if the beginner sets out in advance with the idea that a fair amount of waiting is needed, this will also make the necessary practice of incrementally adding fishes easier to adjust to! The 'waiting period' also gives the beginner time to hunt around and find furnishings that more closely dovetail with the 'mental map' of the finished aquarium. Which means that if the aquarium starts to 'look right' from day one, the beginner will be more passionately committed to keeping it humming nicely!

Right, after that preamble, now for some species. Most of my choices will be eminently suitable for a live-planted and bogwood decorated aquarium, as they will originate from natural waters with those features.

Characins

LOTS of species to choose from here! First of all, I'll recommend the Board's perennial favourite for cycling, the Black Widow Gymnocorymbus ternetzi. This is one of the most 'bomb-proof' aquarium fishes available. If these die, then there is something VERY seriously wrong in the aquarium! Next, there are the perennial favourites from the Genera Hyphessobrycon and Hemigrammus, along with one or two odd ones from other Genera, which are old established aquarium favourites. Before going further, one warning I shall issue concerns Neon Tetras: these are TINY. Choose companions with care if choosing Neons, as they are more likely than most other Characins to end up as another fish's lunch if housed with the wrong companions! Don't put Neons in with fishes that grow to more than 2 inches long for safety, which means NO Dwarf Cichlids if Neons form part of the squarium stock!

Good species to choose include: Neons (with the above warning in place), Glowlights, Cardinals ( I have these), Lemon Tetras (again, I have these, and recommend them highly), Rosy Tetras (these are lovely), X-Ray Tetras, Head And Tail Lights, Black Neons (this is another 'bomb proof' species), Flame Tets, Red Phantom Tets, Black Phantom Tets and, if the budget will stretch to them (as they can be expensive) Emperor Tets. I would NOT recommend Penguin Fishes to start with as they can be nippy, Serpaes have a reputation for being bad tempered among some Board members, and although I have kept Rummy Noses happily for 7 years or so before acquiring my Pencil Fishes, they can be e to transport shock and should be acclimatised carefully. Consequently, I'll advise beginners to go for these only if they plan the purchase in advance, and make sure that the Rummies receive as few frights as possible on the way home.

Finally, if the beginner can find them, I'll give Beckford's Pencil Fishes a vote, because mine have proven to be pretty tough little characters. Keep an eye on them though, some males can become 'wife beaters', and ideally a shoal should contain more females than males.

Oh, all of the above should be kept in shoals of 6 minimum, and if space allows, shoals of 12 or more make a wonderful spectacle!

Barbs, Danios, Rasboras and Friends

Zebra Danios are one of THE beginner's fishes, and not far behind are Pearl Danios. Zebras look good in big schools, so DON'T buy less than 6 at a time! If planning a big shoal for a larger aquarium (say 20 for a 6 foot aquarium), then obtain them in batches of 6 or so at a time. Remember, buy fishes incrementally, build up the load on the biological filter gradually!

Among the Barbs, good choices are Cherry Barbs, Gold Barbs, Checkerboard Barbs and, if this rarity appears, the Golden Dwarf Barb,Barbus gelius, which is likely to be VERY rare, but stays tiny and makes a good companion for Neon Tetras.

Only buy Tiger Barbs if [1] they are in a decent sized shoal, and [2] there are no long-finned fishes in the aquarium alongside them. Tiger Barbs have a well deserved reputation for fin nipping. Other than that, they are hardy, attractive and lively.

Among the Rasboras, Harlequins are one of the staples of the trade, and most are pretty hardy tank-bred specimens. If the Redtail Rasbora, Rasbora borapetenis, turns up, or the Eye-Spot Rasbora, Rasbora dorsiocellata, then these are excellent choices well worth snapping up!

Then, there are White Clouds. These are bomb proof, on a par with Black Widows mentioned above under Characins. If these start dying, then again, this is an indication that there is something SERIOUSLY wrong in the aquarium!

Catfishes

The one Genus of Catfishes that everyone thinks of here is Corydoras. If a fish could embrace pacifism, these certainly would. Corys NEVER attack other living fishes, are SUPERB bottom dwellers, and deserve a LOT of respect from their keepers. Pick one species and get a group. DON'T mix and match ones and twos of different species, as they are happiest in good-sized social groups of their own species. Purchase around 4 of each species minimum. If space allows, buy a group of 8, or if the aquarium is really spacious, buy 6 each of three species.

Good choices among the Corys are: Bronze Catfishes, Peppered Catfshes, Skunk Corys (arcuatus) and Leopard Corys - often sold as julii, but usually more likely to be trilineatus. If true julii are on offer, snap them up! Beginners can choose small Corys such as habrosus orpygmaeus, but if doing so remember they have greater social needs than the larger Corys, and these should be in a group of 8.

Next, algae eaters. And the fish of choice here is Otocinclus. Ideally, buy these only when the aquarium has been running for a couple of months and algae is starting to make its presence felt, and acclimatise them carefully, as quite a few suffer rough handling at the wholesalers. Better still, put small rounded pebbles or bits of bogwood in jars on the windowsill and grow algae on them before buying Otocinclus (my infamous "Otocinclus Pet Rock" method of farming algae treats for them). If Otocinclus have algae to eat from day one, they'll settle in to a new aquarium much more easily.

Loaches

There's only one loach I'd recommend for a beginner, and that is the Pigmy Chain Loach, Botia sidthimunki. The reason? It stays small, eats snails just like Clown Loaches if needed, is peaceful with most other fishes, and won't outgrow the aquarium. DON'T buy Clown Loaches! These can reach - wait for it - EIGHTEEN INCHES in the wild. Juveniles may look beautiful, but they need space, and LOTS of it. In Borneo, riverside villagers harvest the adults for food. A big Clown Loach can feed a family of four. Which makes it too big to include here! Pigmy Chain Loaches on the other hand won't exceed 2 inches. A word of warning though: they are expensive, and here in the UK where I live, they are OBSCENELY expensive, but worth it ...

Livebearers

Out of the "Big Four", stick to Guppies and Platies. The reason? Mollies and Swordtails can reach substantial sizes. I've seen female Swordtails 5 inches long. Sailfin Mollies can reach nearly 6 inches. Plus, Mollies do best in hard, alkaline water or even brackish water.

As an alternative, if they are available, try members of the Genus Limia. These are hardy, stay a reasonable size, and as a bonus, are good algae eaters.

If keeping Neon Tetras, a good small livebearer companion is the Glass Livebearer, Quintana atrizona. But, this rarity is hard to find, likely to be expensive, and Americans will have extra trouble obtaining it as it comes from Cuba!

Rainbows

There is a small Rainbow Fish available, and that is the Australian Rainbow Fish, Melantaenia mccullochi. Pushed out of fashion by the recent influx of exotic (and usually big) Rainbow Fishes from Irian Jaya, this one should be looked out for, as it is an EXCELLENT beginner's fish - 2 inch maximum size, genuine rainbow colours (and in direct sunlight, a blast of iridescent brilliance that will blow anyone's socks off!), exemplary community manners and easy to breed into the bargain. Why this isn't more readily available is a mystery to me, as it's one of the best beginner's choices around.

Gouramis

Only two recommendations here for a community aquarium. The Dwarf Gourami, Colisa lalia, is one, but if buying these, watch the males, they can be pretty rough on the females once they start getting frisky and want to breed. And, they have a penchant for 'wife beating' during mating. Other than that, they are reasonably peaceful in a commuity aquarium. A better choice is the Honey Gourami, Colisa chuna. Males don't beat up the females, and in breeding dress, they look gorgeous. Both of these are usually sold as male/female pairs, but a better combination is one male with three females if possible. In the case of Dwarf Gouramis, this ensures that one female isn't constantly harassed by the male.

Cichlids

Yes, there are some Cichlids that can be recommended to the beginner. Needless to say, all small ones. But, my recommendations may catch some people unawares. I won't recommend Apistogramma species or Rams, as they can be nippy.

First of all, the Golden-Eyed Dwarf Cichlid, Nannacara anomala, and its relation the Lattice Dwarf Cichlid, Nannacara taenia. Both of these species are underrated, in the case of anomala positively gorgeous, peaceful in a community aquarium and far less likely to turn on small Tetras and similar companions than Rams or Apistos. However, watch them if they start to breed: in this case, females beat up the males!

Next, Thomas's Dwarf Cichlid, Anomalchromis thomasi. VASTLY underrated, gorgeous in breeding dress, far more peaceful than Kribs and unlikely to fight amongst each other even at breeding time unless cramped in a too-small aquarium.

Finally, the Flag Cichlid, Aequidens curviceps. If there is such a thing as a pacifist Cichlid, this is it. Excellent community fish, exemplary manners, excellent colouration, unlikely to fight even at breeding time, and when breeding, usually provides exemplary care of fry and young, making it possibly THE Cichlid choice for the beginner. If it can be found, snap it up, as it is beautiful, well-mannered and has almost none of the infamous Cichlid vices associated with big bruisers such as Dempseys.

And with this little list of recommendations, I'll leave you to savour the above and enjoy!


Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

A title I've won on several boards FerretFanatic

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Cal I think you win the award for "makes the longest posts" but nevertheless accurate. I think I'm going to refer this to a couple of people.

-Formerly known as the Ferretfish

Korkanium, this should keep you and DoJo happy

I've just acquired a book on Rainbow Fishes, which has opened my eyes to some new beginner possibilities, some of which I've already mentioned above. And, it's expanded my knowledge base species list by a substantial margin into the bargain. While this post properly belongs in the Rainbows & Killies forum, I'm putting it here because this is where beginners will head for, and I'm aiming this at beginners to let them know that there are some wonderful fishes that they can keep in hard, alkaline water, without the headaches that certain Rift Lake Cichlids will bring!

Derek Lambert has written this book, which is part of the TFH Publications collection (ISBN 0-7938-0376-4, 4.95 UK in paperback), and it includes numerous photographs of assorted Rainbowfish species breeding. The Rainbow Fishes provide an answer to those of my critics who bemoan my avoidance of hard, alkaline water fishes (with one or two livebearer exceptions such as Platies), and if anything, the Rainbow Fishes, several of which not only live up to, but surpass their collective name, are even more stunning to look at than the Rift Lake Cichlids! They also have, from the beginner's standpoint, the advantage of being peaceful shoaling fishes, that provide a sweeping spectacle when the swim up and down a long aquarium.

The only problem with some of the newer influx of Rainbow Fishes (particualarly the Irian Jaya species) is size: some can reach 5 inches in length. For the beginner starting out with a large aquarium, these are immediately recommendable, but once again, it pays to do the research and check which are the bigger ones! There are, fortunately, some small ones as well, and some of these are little jewels that sparkle with colour, but a caveat has to be issued here. Among the smaller ones, there are some gorgeous fishes, which can live in a wide range of aquaria with varying water chemistry parameters, but they should only be moved from one body of water to a different body of water, with different parameters, carefully. Time should be taken acclimatising some of the smaller ones to one's aquarium, if the water at the dealer's differs significantly from the home supply. With this caveat in place, I shall take the risk of recommending them, and exhort the would-be keeper to check if the dealer's water matches that of the home aquarium.

Once suitably acclimatised, Rainbow Fishes will occupy the midwater regions of the aquarium, and dart up and down in co-ordinated shoals. They need swimming space, but also, plant thickets strategically placed for shelter. Bogwood decorations with Java Ferns growing upon them will serve this purpose admirably, and also give the more adventurous species an 'obstacle course' to swim around, adding to the spectacle as light flashes off their iridescent scales and fins.

The majority of Rainbow Fishes are considered easy to care for, and will also pay dividends to the careful beginner in terms of breeding when mature, as one or two species (such as the Australian Rainbow Fish, an old favourite known as Melanotaenia mccullochi) are ready spawners and require only a modest effort toward conditioning. In return, the breeding colours of these fishes are awesome to behold, and some of the newer species also possess spectacular finnage - see some of these in breeding dress and you'll NEVER want to see dyed fishes again, as Nature has excelled herself with these beauties, some really do exhaust superlatives when they display and spawn!

Now, I'll list some species, along with some remarks about size, and special notes about acclimatisation where necessary.

Bedotia geayi - The Madagascar Rainbow. 6 inches SL. Suitable for community of larger fishes, don't keep with Neons as the Neons will end up as lunch!
Glossolepis incisus - Red Rainbow Fish. 6 inches SL. Again, large quarters and similar sized companions a must.
Iratherina werneri - Threadfin Rainbow Fish. 2 inches SL. Suitable for a modest aquarium with small companions, but better left to a more experienced fishkeeper - graduate to these after a year with less demanding Rainbows. Worth the wait though - they are gorgeous!
Melanotaenia fluviatilis - Murray River Rainbow Fish. 4 inches SL. Usually only attains 3 inches in the aquarium. Also prefers cooler temperatures than most - its native waters sometimes drop to a mere 50F!
Melanotaenia boesemani - Boeseman's Rainbow Fish. 4.5 Inches SL. Adaptable and imposing 'two-colour' Rainbow Fish, good for the beginner with a good sized aquarium.
Melanotaenia herbertaxelrodi - Lake Terbera Rainbow Fish. 5 inches SL. Temperature range 70F to 76F, a good choice for alkaline water but should have similar sized companions in a community.
Melanotaenia lacustris - Lake Kutubu Rainbow Fish. 5 inches SL. A good beginner's species for those with space, and a must for those who like blue fishes!
Melanotaenia mcculochi - Dwarf Australian Rainbow Fish. 3 inches SL. The one that is usually recommended as THE beginner's Rainbow Fish. Peaceful, hardy, eats anything, a ready breeder.
Melnaotaenia nigrans - Black Banded Rainbow Fish. Orignally this name was misapplied (see below). The true M. nigrans reaches 3 inches SL. Another excellent beginner's Rainbow Fish.
Melanotaenia duboulayi - Duboulay's Rainbow Fish. For years mis-named as M. nigrans, is an imposing species in its own right. 3 inches SL.
Melanotaenia praecox - Dwarf Neon Rainbow Fish. 2.25 inches SL. A small and brillliantly coloured fish that Lambert describes as 'a smash hit when it first appeared'. Another excellent beginner's Rainbow, eats well, breeds prolifically, and when mature, is stunning to behold!
Melnaotaenia splendida australis - Western Rainbow Fish. 4 inches SL. Ideal for the beginner with a spacious aquarium, but keep with similar sized companions as they can be boisterous, and push smaller fishes out of the way at feeding time.
Melanotaenia splendida splendida - Eastern Rainbow Fish. 5 inches SL. Needs a large aquarium, and also needs to be kept in a shoal of at least 10 individuals. Otherwise a good beginner's choice, but likely to be expensive, especially if bought in numbers! Very variable in colour.
Melanotaenia trifasciata - Banded Rainbow Fish. 5 inches SL. Needs a spacious aquarium, but otherwise undemanding. Numerous geographical races with colour variations exist, making positive identification somewhat difficult, but relatively undemanding from the standpoint of care.
Pseudomugil connieae - Popondetta Rainbow Fish. Less than 2 inches SL. Acclimatise with care! However, once carefully acclimatised, hardy, grows and breeds well, and is a stunning jewel of a fish. Will live with Neon Tetras in acidic water if acclimatised slowly, but usually prefers harder, slightly alkaline water. The same notes about acclimatisation and water chemistry preferences applies to all the Pseudomugil species.
Pseudomugil furcatus - Fork Tailed Rainbow Fish. Less than 2 inches SL. Another sparkling jewel, hardy once acclimatised, lives well with small companions.
Pseudomugil gertrudae - Spotted Blue-Eye. 1.5 inches SL. Excellent tiny Rainbow Fish, needs careful acclimatisation, but once acclimatised, hardy and another living jewel that will even rival Neons in brilliance!
Pseudomugil signifer - Pacific Blue-Eye. 2.5 inches SL. Again, acclimatise with care. Wide temperature range of 68F to 80F. Does best in slightly alkaline water.
Telmatherina ladigesi - Sulawesi Rainbow Fish. 3 inches SL. Hardy, does best with similar sized companions, likes plant thickets a LOT. Adults can be stunningly beautiful.

Note that while the Melanotaenia species may be readily available, the Peudomugil species are likely to be rare and expensive, but WELL worth seeking out. Likewise, Telmatherina ladigesi is fairly commonly available, and if cared for properly, becomes utterly stunning in appearance! Other odd ones to look out for, similar to the Irian Jaya Melanotaenia species, are assorted members of the Genus Chilatherina, including Chilatherina axelrodi and Chilatherina fasciata.

And now, an illustration that we aquarists have a role to play in conservation. Melanotaenia eachamensis, the Lake Eacham Rainbow Fish, had been kept and bred in captivity by numerous Australian aquarists. In 1987, it was discovered that alien introductions to its native waters had propelled it to extinction. Professional conservation organisations were able to source fishes from the aquarists for a restocking exercise, which sadly failed because the alien fishes had not been removed. On a happy note, M. eachamensis has since been found living wild in other water bodies, but it illustrates how the aquarist is a force for good in conservation!

Beginners wanting to know more can look up the following organisations:

UK - British Rainbow & Goby Society
USA - The Rainbowfish Study Group Inc.
Eurozone - Internationale Gesellschaft fur Regensbogenfische (based in Germany)
Australia - Australia New Guinea Fishes Association (ANGFA) - also recommended as a premier source of information outside Australia, the oldest and best established of all Rainbowfish societies around the world.

These societies are a MUST for the serious Rainbow Fish breeder, especially those wishing to aid conservation, as they provide specialist information on geographical varieties, collection locations (sometimes accompanied by GPS data!) and in the case of ANGFA especially, have the scientific clout to perform DNA profiling!

Finally, if any of you on this board encounter an ignoramus who thinks dyed fish are a good idea, do a Google search on Pseudomugil connieae, look for pictures, and demonstrate that with fish species that are this gorgeous courtesy of good old Mother Nature, we don't need tortured glassfishes and dye-injected Cichlid hybrids!

Enjoy!


[span class="edited"][Edited by Calilasseia 2004-07-17 08:46][/span]

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

" detect signs of racism against North Americans"

That confuses me. Which race are North Americans, exactly?

the master race from outer space ]
(song by the vandals)

[span class="edited"][Edited by korkanium 2004-07-16 10:18][/span]

wow nice online community
great info.. prolly took you a while to write it up
im going crazy trying to figure out what fish to put in there. i was wondering why all your fish recommendations are mostly small.. around 2". also why only the 2 choices of gourami? i was thinking of getting some blues.
well all my fish choices have been schooling fish but i want some thatll be well on their own
whats bogwood and where do you get it? its it like drift wood that makes it acidic?
finally .. Corydoras or Otocinclus? (since you said to get 3-4 of them)

DoJo, you might like to know that there ARE some Rift Lake Cichlids I'd feel somewhat happy about recommending to an aquarist with limited experience, but these are far from common in the trade even in the States, where Rift Lake Cichlids are big business, and are therefore likely to be a tad expensive.

Cyprichromis leptosomais is one of several members of the Genus from Lake Tanganyika, which poses virtually none of the aggression problems that would be faced by keepers of Neolamprologus leleupi or the Julies. In fact, wait for it, it doesn't behave like a 'normal' Cichlid at all. It's a shoaling fish. It should be kept in decent sized groups, as it behaves more like South American Characins, forming tight midwater shoals. This means, of course, that it's going to be a multiply expensive purchase, and when seen washed-out in a dealer aquarium because [1] the specimens for sale are juvenile, and [2] are kept in bare surroundings where they can't show off their colours, people are apt to wonder why they're so expensive. Put eight or twelve of them in a Tanganyika set-up, let them settle in, feed plenty of live food and watch them mature - then the reason for the inflated price tag becomes obvious. Mature Cyprichromis are resplendently beautiful, and sky-high desirable among Rift Lake keepers 'in the know'. Males in breeding condition are gorgeous. And, you can have more than one male without fights breaking out. Try this with Julies or Daffodil Cichlids in anything but a very large aquarium, and open warfare will result!

A newcomer with hard, alkaline water could, in theory, keep Julies and Neolamprologus, but said newcomer would have to be prepared to learn a few things before doing so. Such as making sure that there is only one male of each of these species surrounded by several females, or alternatively making sure that they are all males leading a bachelor life, so to speak. Put two or more males together with females, and havoc can ensue as the males launch into macho posturing in an attempt to compete over the females - in the wild, they have lots of water and hiding places to run to if they lose the battle, but in an aquarium there's frequently nowhere to run to or hide. The result is that the losing males end up torn to pieces. Julies can also become "wife beaters", which is why I hesitate to recommend them to beginners, as they can cause some headaches even for the experienced Rift Lake keeper.

Shell-dwellers are small, more likely to be sociable, yes, but ... only if you give them enough shells. And finding a large collection of suitable shells might prove problematic for some people, especially as the tide has turned against shell collecting for ecological reasons, and educating government bureaucrats to make a legislative exception in the case of dead Tanganyikan snail shells will take time that the beginner hasn't got. Try getting a piece of legislation of this kind through the UN - it'll be a severe test even for any professional lawyers or politicians on this board. What's more, people in Florida, for example, will be aware that the Fish And Wildlife Service take a dim view of people just popping into the sea outside their beach homes and collecting shells. It's not as bad here in the UK, and I suppose that anyone willing to brave the chilly sea waters of Britain's coasts could find suitable substitiute shells, but would you go diving in the north of Scotland in December?

Of course, the best answer of all would be for some enterprising individuals to bring back live Tanganyikan snails and cultivate them in captivity. Hey presto, shell problem solved. But until that happens, keeping shell dwellers could again prove problematic for the newcomer who wants to do things right from the start. And Australia is notorious for its very strict interpretation of conservation legislation, this having been brought about by thoughtless alien introductions and one or two notable extinctions among the native fauna that the Australian authorities are keen not to see repeated. This will make the prospective shell-dweller keeper's life even more of a headache. As any of the Australians on the board will tell you, there are lots of fish species they'd like to keep but can't, because the government trembles over the thought of any of them getting loose and adding to the list of native extinctions. Plus, they're taking flak from some quarters over their rabbit control policies, and because they're under siege over that, they're not in the mood to relax legislation to please fishkeepers, who rightly or wrongly are seen as a 'minority interest' group, and one with near-zero clout at the ballot box.

Furthermore, if one wishes to guarantee to throttle a newcomer's enthusiasm from the very start, a good way of doing this is to recommend that he or she launches into an exotic set up with expensive inmates, only to have them all keel over and die when the inevitable beginner mistakes kick in. And, chemistry is against you here, DoJo, it's nothing to do with race - Rift Lake fishes need hard, alkaline water that is fairly warm, the very parameters within which ammonia is most toxic to fishes. That unfortunate simple scientific fact makes me wary of recommending a Rift Lake setup to a newcomer, alongside the fact that the Cichlid fauna of these lakes consists of specialised fishes with, in some cases, demanding requirements. And even the hardy ones will keel over if an ammonia spike hits them. I don't want our Transatlantic cousins to feel put upon in any way, in fact, I want them to enjoy success so that they'll be in a position to educate the ignorami in politics, and use their hard-won education to see that future conservation legislation is wisely thought out, because the US is the biggest customer in the western world for aquarium fishes, and if the US screws up, it affects us all. It's down to those key concepts I keep banging on about in various posts of mine - plan, learn, plan, learn, make sure the intellectual spadework is done before a penny is spent. A few hours spent in careful planning before a penny is spent generally saves weeks of heartache afterwards. If a beginner is willing to wait for two months or more while an empty aquarium cycles, fending off moans from spouse and children, and then stock incrementally with carefully chosen species, having done the research and become mentally prepared for the task at hand, then yes, I'll happily say go and get those Julies you've set your heart on. But ONLY if the research has been done, and the requisite expert advice has been sought. Which is what we're all here for on this board, after all! I've written enough to keep quite a few aquarists happy, and I do this for fun, and for the warm glow it gives me thinking that I've helped someone out there successfully keep sparkling happy fishes in a resplendent miniature "window on the reef" or whatever. But I'll err on the side of caution, and recommend that newcomers cut their teeth on something bomb proof before launching into something more exotic. I'm sure Shini would have a word or two to say, for example, if a beginner came in and said, "Can I start off with a Potamotrygon motoro freshwater stingray?" I knew they were difficult before coming here, but since Shini mentioned that they're actually difficult enough to give even hardened Discus keepers headaches, I've upgraded my own knowledge base accordingly, because I wasn't aware before Shini mentioned it that freshwater stingrays were that difficult. Even those of us with years of experience behind us can learn something new!

Oh, and while on the subject of upgrading my knowledge base - Shini, what's a Rhinopias?

DoJo, Cichlids are among the most behaviourally complex (and therefore interesting) of fishes. And with that behavioural complexity comes unexpected headaches. Beginners are likely to do best if they start with something less complex and work their way up. After all, you'd be a bit wary of taking a holiday flight abroad if you thought there was a possibility that your 747 or Airbus was in the hands of a novice! And you wouldn't point a beginner to aviation at an F-15 and say "why don't you give that a try?" Similarly, just because I've racked up 500 hours on Comanche Gold 3 on my PC, this doesn't qualify me to join the US Army's helicopter gunship squadrons. Although, having left university studying mathematics, and along the way becoming acquainted with the physics of helicopter flight, I might stand a better chance than most.

And having said that, I have just one question to ask - now that Herb Axelrod is facing time for tax evasion, and his position is vacant, can I have it?

PS : I've just found some more fishes that are small, live in hard, alkaline water, and are GORGEOUS to look at. Rainbow Fishes of the Genus Pseudomugil. Pseudomugil connieae is a technicolour blast, and should be available on the American market. If you can find it, snap it up, it'll be somewhat expensive but SOOO worth it!


Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Ya like my sniper kitty? lol. I'd tell you where I got it from, but sniper kitty doesn't like me giving out information like that, and I don't want to make him mad! *glances up at adjacent buildings' windows*

Slightly off topic : Jake, your little avatar is a hoot. Where did you get it?

Menawhile, DoJo, while much of the USA may have water suitable for Rift Lake fishes, I'd hesitate to recommend them because they can pose additional headaches for the newcomers over and above the 'bread and butter' fishes. And in any case, there are quite a few lovely fishes that will live in hard and alkaline water that won't pose the same problems - the Sulawesi Rainbow, Telmatherina ladigesi, is a splendid example

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

detect signs of racism against North Americans

That confuses me. Which race are North Americans, exactly?

Well, Mbuna like water with a hardness of 108ppm (minimum), so that shouldn't be a problem. Besides, I'm starting to detect signs of racism against North Americans.

Hmm ... coming from a country where the majority of water sources are soft and slightly acidic, with a few notable exceptions, Rift Lake Cichlids are something of a speciality niche over here. Plus, even the small ones need substantial quarters, because they're territorial. And I certainly wouldn't advise beginners to jump straight into Mbunas, because they require prior experience on something less demanding. Likewise, I'd be cautious about recommending shell-dwellers, even though they're small, because again, they need hard, alkaline water resembling that of Lake Tanganyika, and ammonia is more toxic in such water than in soft acidic water. Even a small ammonia spike in such an aquarium will prove problematic, and may prove overwhelming to a newcomer.

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Why? I know most of us that come from the USA have water perfect for them? Rift Lake cichlids are good beginners' fish, providing they have money and are willing to learn how to care for them. I mean, they're hardier than many commonly kept beginner fish like neons, and they wouldn't hurt a fly (they'd kill it). And those colors. And they're small enough to fit in a 29 US gallon tank!

Probably because they're Rift Lake Cichlids, and I wouldn't advise a beginner to start with Rift Lake Cichlids!

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002

Why dontcha add African Yellow Labs to the cichlids list? They're small, peaceful, and hardy, too.