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Ok so i have a 35 gallon reef tank, cant decide on what light i should get (cost isnt an issue) what do you think

the Orbit compact fluorescent with lunal lights 130 watts

the Dual Satellite compact fluorescent fixture 130 watts

the Aqualight pro HQI/compact fluorescent/lunar light fixture 280 watts

the outer orbit HQI/compact fluorescent/lunar fixture 280 watts.

what do you think?

www.responsiblethrashers.com

Depends on what kinds of corals you want to keep.

Personally I'd recommend a MH pendant, and then some supplemental lighting, like maybe a couple Actinic O3's.

That will give you great color and allow you to keep basically anything you want, including SPS and clams.

-Formerly known as the Ferretfish

Al though MH's are good. i think on smaller tank you can get a better spectrum with the T5's.

the outer orbit HQI/compact fluorescent/lunar fixture 280 watts /:'

would 280 watts be too much for my 35 gal.?

www.responsiblethrashers.com

nope.

haha, there's no such thing as too much light

I still suggest a halide pendant, you can get a 150 or 175 watt one, and then actinics for supplemental lighting, but T5s do have nice color.

On my 4' tank I will be using T5s as supplemental lights to my halides.

-Formerly known as the Ferretfish

i wasnt sure if too many watts would sunburn my corals. 280 watts that what 8 watts per gallon in my tank.

www.responsiblethrashers.com

i had ten watt per gallons

8 watts per gallon is fine, trust me.

EDIT: I'll have about that on my tank.

Last edited by Ferretfish at 29-Jul-2005 14:37

-Formerly known as the Ferretfish

when you look at it, even 1000w halides dont even come close to the PAR, or LUX that the sun has at noon. The only time you can have too much light is if its heating up your tank....then you just need to find a way to keep the tank cool

8w? 10w? I had 39wpg over one tank and 13 over another. Everything was doing fine.

And Ferret, quit cheating....you know that your 8wpg doesnt count because you are using halides

BTW, wpg isnt really a good way to judge light...PAR and LUX are better ways that are more accurate. Even then you need to take into account the depth of the tank, clarity of the water, height of the light from the tank, etc.

*edit.....almost forgot..even though there really isnt any such thing as too much light. Remember that corals and their zooxanthellae have a saturation point to where it doesnt matter how much more light you give them they still wont grow fast/stronger.

Last edited by DarkRealm Overlord at 10-Aug-2005 21:58

And Ferret, quit cheating....you know that your 8wpg doesnt count because you are using halides

I know I know...sorry. :-/

WPG is really a terrible rule, especially in marine tanks b/c there's just so many lighting options, and you really have to take depth into consideration. I guess it's okay as a general guideline, but blahh.

Nate, it's too bad that the average hobbyist cant afford a PAR meter. In LIRA we have a club one that we all share though. (Question - do they have LUX meters? I hear people talking about PAR more than LUX) Now that I think about it, do you really need one as long as you pick out lights that are fitted to your tank and intense enough for what you want to keep...and if you keep up with your bulb changes?

-Formerly known as the Ferretfish

IMO, yes you still need one....different corals would prefer different PAR values, so it is nice to be able to take measurments in different depths of the tank, difference areas of the aquascaping (such as under an overhang, etc) to see where your coral would be happiest. It is true however that most if not all of the corals that we keep can/will adjust to almost any area of the tank.

Its just nice to be able to know PAR levels at different areas of the tank for coral placement and optimal conditions.

BTW, they do make a LUX meter..a good one will run around $500

Understandable. Thanks.

If you were to buy a PAR meter...which would you get?

-Formerly known as the Ferretfish