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what do i need? i was thinking of changing over my 50g (which was formerly fw) into a fowlr tank. i have a fluval 204 and 404, as well as a whisper 5(? i think?) hob filter (the one with two baskets of media). i still need to get substrate, and probably some lighting i'm sure. i have ~3wpg worth of lighting, it's all fluoro with some compact fluoro lighting. haven't decided on fish yet, i just want to know what equipment i should invest in, and the proper substrate before i start getting into it more deeply.

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"That's the trouble with political jokes in this country... they get elected!" -- Dave Lippman

It sounds like you have plenty of lighting for a fowler tank. Lighting isn't as necessary for the live rock to do it's job, and for it to look nice with coralline algae I think calcium is more important than light. Either way you have plenty of light.

The one thing I'd invest in if I were you is a nice protein skimmer. I like the aragonite for a substrate. Get a decent salt like Instant Ocean. Maybe a couple powerheads to keep up the water flow around the rock. That would be most of your filtration if you invest in enough live rock.

You could think about getting a sump for extra water volume, refugium, and hiding heaters and what not, but that's probably not as important as it would be in a reef tank. You could probably go with the canisters instead as long as you keep up with maintanence and don't let nitrates build up from debris in the filters.

HTH

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

so, canisters instead of powerheads you're saying? both canisters at once, or just the 404? the 404 is way too powerful for that tank for fw fish (as i learned to my dismay) but if i need plenty of current it sounds perfect for fowlr.

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"That's the trouble with political jokes in this country... they get elected!" -- Dave Lippman

I guess I meant using the canister instead of a sump, because you won't need the refugium/extra water as much as you would in a reef tank. I'd still be careful about cleaning those filters often though. Let the rock do the biological filtration and just use the canister as water movement and mech/chem filtration.

I think I'd just use one canister(your pick I think) and one powerhead for water circulation. Two canisters to clean out once a week or so doesn't sound like a bunch of fun. But those two would be plenty of water movement. With the fluvals I thought you could adjust the flow settings...at least you can with mine. If that's the case I'd tend to use the 404 and lower the flow if it seems the fish are getting blown away, which probably won't happen.

Last edited by mattyboombatty at 10-Oct-2005 12:55

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Your lighting is fine, and actually is probably over-kill for a FOWLR. I would be sure to have one of the NO fluorescents as an actinic bulb.

I would definitely have a skimmer, as this will lower your need for water changes and such. As it removes protien out of the water, that if left in there will break down and cause an increase on the bioload and in the end an increase in nitrates. Which in SW fish can be hazardous.

Definitely use the Aragonite, or some other calcium/coral based sand. As this will leach calcium into the water and help to buffer the ph.

I would not use Instant Ocean salt for a FOWLR tank though. As this salt has extra additives aimed for reef tanks. It actually has additional calcium and other stuff. There is no need for this in a FOWLR setup, so why pay the additional cost of the salt if it is not needed. Some people swear by it, and if your prefference decides on it, then it will do no harm. But IMO it is just a waste, and not needed. You will be spending the most of your money buying salt for the first few months anyway. As you will need many more water changes when you start out, than when your tank establishes itself.

IMO, for a FOWLR, your best bet is a wet/dry. No other filters besides the LR and the skimmer. The wet/dry will allow more biological bacteria growth. Thus allowing for more fish, or just a better environment for the fish. If you get a good one, or build one, get one that will allow the skimmer and heater in it. The wet dry also allows you to place other types of filters and additives in it, and thus not having them in the main tank. If the need ever arises, you can place bags of filter media in the wet dry, where they will get a high flow of the water, and thus do a better job. Things I am talking about are Phos-ban (phosphate control), carbon (to remove any meds), ph buffers, and anything else you migh need.

With a FOWLR, the increase in current is not a neccessity, unless you have it blowing into and behind the LR. The fish don't need it. The reason for it behind the LR, or blowing into it, is to keep any detritus from building up within the LR. If it builds up in or on the LR, it can cause death of the bacteria growing in it, and decrease your biological filter, and if/when desturbed, can cause an ammonia spike. In a SW tank, an ammonia spike can be extremely devistating to the ecological system.

HTH.....

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There is always a bigger fish...

And two more things to add;

Firstly,
Remember this always, KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid.

Secondly, and probably the most important things to remember, are these three things;
PATIENCE!
PATIENCE!
and more PATIENCE!


WELCOME TO THE DARK SIDE!



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There is always a bigger fish...

in your description of the wet/dry, it sounds very much like a refugium type setup. would i just be better off getting (or making if possible) a refugium for filtration instead of a wet/dry?

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"That's the trouble with political jokes in this country... they get elected!" -- Dave Lippman

In a sump you can have a wet/dry built in and also have a refugium. I would build your own....make it about 60% of your main tank capacity. It's usually pretty cheap to use a rubbermaid container (food safe) and modify it to your own needs. I had an extra tank sitting around, so I used that for my sump.

I recommended the current for enhanced bio filtering of the live rock. The rock simply can't filter waste efficiently if there isn't enough current through/around the rock.

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

A wet/dry is simply some kind of materials that have a lot of surface area (bio balls, but can use anything with high surface area), in the open and not submersed in water. Then the water is dripped over this material in the air. Thus highly oxygenating the water, and constant flow over material. You can actually have a refugium with this set up on top of it. As the water goes out of the tank, it is then dripped over the bio-balls, and then into the main refugium. This is a highly used setup. For more detail on how the wet/dry works, visit your lfs and see an actual wet/dry filter. Most all lfs that sell SW fish will have some on display. They can more define how they work with you looking at them. This can give you the idea of how to set one up on top of a refugium.

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There is always a bigger fish...

so i guess the next question is: what are some good books you would recommend that i should read?

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"That's the trouble with political jokes in this country... they get elected!" -- Dave Lippman

"The New Marine Aquarium" by Michael S. Paletta is a good (very)general overview of the saltwater hobby describing set up, filtration, lightning, upkeep, major families of fishes, and what not. This isn't a textbook and is not very scientific, but shows many of your options and is a great starting point.

"Marine Fishes: 500+ Essential-To-Know Aquarium Species" by Scott W. Michael is a great reference for the most commonly found marine fish. Gives ease of care, reef compatibility, and brief descriptions of requirements and temperment on every fish.

The same company as above has another book entitled Marine Invertabrates by Ronald L. Shimek and is very similar - except it covers inverts and not fish.

Last edited by mattyboombatty at 11-Oct-2005 11:49

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Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Personally, I only have a few SW books, and they are the older ones, at least for fish only. Everyone elses recomendations would be better than mine. My newer SW books are all on corals and such. The Marine Atlas is a good one if you want pics and such, but not much info other than that and where the fish come from.

SW is probably the fastest growing area of fish keeping right now, with all the new discoveries and such. We are still learning how to keep SW aquariums in good health, and there are new ways being developed every day. I would suggest any of the books you find to be the latest versions or to be the most up to date.

In SW fish compatability is usually left up to 2 things. What fish will fit into other fishes mouths. An easy one. And which fish are aggressive to other fishes. Because of the large number of different SW fishes out there, it is usually best to start by picking a couple of fish you are interested int the most, and actually asking about them on the net, either here or at reef central. And then you cannot always be guaranteed a good compatability. As many individual SW fish have their own attitudes.

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There is always a bigger fish...

well, i've always been interested in lionfish, but i know 50g is not sufficient for an adult lionfish. so from there i just thought i'd see what's out there and go from there.

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"That's the trouble with political jokes in this country... they get elected!" -- Dave Lippman