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I'm in the process of setting up a 46 gal bow front. At the moment, I only have 30w light fixture, giving me less than 1 wpg. There are a few stems of hygrophila difformis (covered in diatoms) and aponogeton undulata (which are doing quite well). I set the tank up a little less than a month ago. It's housing two WCMM, two otos, and a sailfin molly. I want to set up a planted tank, but I'm being as patient as possible so I don't screw it up. So, instead of being really annoying starting too many threads, I'm going to ask all of the questions that have been bothering me for a while now.

Right now, my 10 gal is acting as a plant repository. It has two 14w CF bulbs and it has: sagittaria subulata, lilaeopsis brasiliensis, hygrophila difformis, myriophyllum aquaticum, and vesiculara dubyana. Oh, and corkscrew val. Some of the plants were given to me by the nice lady at the LFS. There are also four platies, one molly, and a betta coexisting quite happily. Obviously, some of the plants that are in the 10 gal are going to outgrow it, but I don't really have anywhere else to put them for the time being.

The only reason I was so ill-prepared for the 46 gal is because my 38 gal started leaking before Christmas, and the 46 was a gift from my mom and step-father. Anyway, had I planned on getting a new tank, I would've figured all of this stuff out beforehand. A few days after Christmas, I ordered a Fluval 304, a new heater (250w Visi-Therm Stealth), and a pH test kit (finally) that should be here on Thursday.


A photo of my 10 gal
My pitiful 46 gal before removing some dying wisteria and the java moss and adding the others.

I've been taking pictures and logging everything that I've done like crazy.


Questions:
1) What would be the best substrate to use in the tanks? I was leaning toward Eco-Complete, but I've heard that it's not best for long-term use. For aesthetic purposes I'd prefer it to fluorite, but if fluorite's a better substrate, I'd go with the fluorite.
2) What can I do to ensure that the plants in the 10 gal stay as healthy as possible until I move them in the 46 gal? I know that I have to get a new and better substrate, because right now I just have annoying pink and black gravel. The wisteria is doing fine in it and has rooted itself pretty well, but I can't imagine that the microsword will be doing very well for long. I'm not sure about the sagittaria.
3) What's keeping me from putting the plants in the 46 is mostly lighting. I would love to buy 192w CF fixture, however, it's too expensive. Plus, seeing as these are my first planted tanks, it seems a little premature to dive into a high-light tank without knowledge of CO2, fertilization, and everything else required to maintain a healthy planted tank. But at the same time, the plants I have may require more light. I should learn these things anyway. I don't know! How much light should I have for the 46 gal if I want to put the plants that I have in the 10 gal into it? And what else should I do to maintain the tank with that amount of light?

Basically, I guess I'm just wondering how I can keep the plants as healthy as possible until I can move them into the 46 gal. And to develop a gameplan for the new tank. Even with my lack of knowledge, this whole process is surprisingly exciting for me. So yes. Advice? Suggestions? Anything? Sorry this was so long!

Last edited by dsa at 10-Jan-2006 03:57

dsa,

Welcome to the fun of planted tanks .

To question 1: I have used neither Eco Complete nor Flourite (I use a Laterite base layer in the gravel) but if you are really keen on the Eco then I would not know why you shouldn’t be able to use it sufficiently.

Question 2: There is not much more you can do to help the plants in the 10 then what you do now. Make sure that all plants that require more light actually have access to it (and are not shaded by the Wisteria for example). I assume you don’t add any fertilizers and carbonates to the tank. Depending on your tab water it might be a good idea to do frequent (once a week) large (50% ) water changes to add maybe some nutrients from the tab. If you can afford it then Flourish Excel would be good to add to the tank (carbon source) once a week or so.

Question 3: Yeah, lighting is always a problem. The more light you get the greater the balancing act. But on the other hand the more plant options you have. I think that all plants that you listed should grow nicely with 130w as well (2x65w fixture, if available and cheaper), and even with a 1x96w unit (maybe with the exception of myriophyllum, but I don’t like that plant anyway ). The problem here is that you haven’t made up your mind on future requirements, like if you are going to add CO2 and what plants would be your favorites. So let’s say you get the 96w and all grows ok but later you want more growth and decide on adding CO2 – now you need more light and a new fixture, meaning the investment in the 96w is lost. BTW, there is no rule that says one has to add CO2, it is just an option, but I believe you knew that.

I am very glad that you find this process exciting because that is what it should be. Don’t stress yourself out and enjoy the ride .

Hope this helps,

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

LF,

I was thinking about making a DIY CO2 system for the 10 gal, but various people I've talked to said that it would be overkill. I saw Flourish Excel at the LFS and was going to buy it, but I wanted to make sure it was necessary before I actually purchased anything. Would CO2 be overkill for the 10 gal?

I definitely want to have as many plant options as possible. I guess my main concern with having so much light is just balancing everything out. However, since lighting can be such an expensive investment, I want to get as much as I can so I don't have to spend more money to upgrade later. I wouldn't mind on adding CO2 and everything else, it's just a matter of acquiring all of the appropriate equipment that'll slow me down.

Thank you very much for the advice. It help to put my mind at ease.

--dsa