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I have been using a powerhead for a diffuser in one of my tanks. The CO2 is fed into the intake. The venturi is still there also making a loop, but the Rio 600-800 series pumps have a special impeller, instead of 4 flat blades, these have 6 flexible blades that are optimized for fine bubble production.

Note these are not the same regular Rio 600/800 pumps.

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=TA3191

No modification is needed, simply attach the CO2 line to the inlet and connect the other inlet to the the venturi.

These are superior to common powerheads for this application and production of mist.The key is the impeller, these are quite good, but ideally one of those needle wheel skimmer impellers would be best.Maybe they will sell those later.

If you direct the powerhead down into the plant beds from near the top of the tank , this will give you the best efficiecy.

No reactor cup needed(plant leaves act as a baffle), simply plug the powerhead into the light timer. CO2 comes on when you need it, off when you don't. No reactor tube means less space.

Cost 15-20$, ease of use: very easy for both gas tanks or DIY CO2 sources.
I would also suggest these for driving reactors if they are in the gph flow range you need.

Regards,
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com

Tom,
Sounds like a very efficient alternative to other diffusion methods. I am experimenting with co2 injection and I have simply placed a micro-bubble airstone right instide my eheim ecco intake strainer. It's invisible and so far so good. I have heard of some worried about damaging the impeller or a killing of the bacterial colony using my method, so your method using simply a powerhead would eliminate those concerns. I've been using my method for about 2 weeks now without a problem and there is no equipment visible whatsoever. I have a eheim spraybar positioned horizitonal with the spray directly at a 45degree angle toward the plants.

My Scapes

I've recently changed over to using a glass diffuser instead of a reactor. I love it. Works remarkably well, despite the "myths" of them being inefficient and outgassing. Using your own suggestions on locating the spray bar maore then makes up for that.

Has every other method beat hands down IMO, cheaper $10-$15, no powerhead needed, less space used , almost invisible although it's the one piece of tank equipment I don't mind seeing as they are a pretty attractive piece of kit, need less gas to get the same levels. Much more consistent then the reactors, which used to always fill up with gas for me and drop in efficiency. No problems getting down to a 6.6pH and is very very stable. Plants love it, never looked better. Ammania Gracillis that was thin and yellowish is now fat and pink.

Granted the powerhead you describe is a good option for those that find the diffusers hard to find or those using DIY mix which may not produce enough pressure to operate the diffusers efficiently.

It's good to see there are some good cheap options availble to get good diffusion. Shame most of us have probably already wasted $40-$50 on reactors that really aren't that efficient.

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Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

bensaf,

Could you post a pic of your set up??

plantbrain,
I might have to try this one out. Right now I am using a bubble lader and it seems to be working pretty well. I haven't tested any levels but my plants are doing well and my fish are not freaking out.

55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric

I've designed dozens of CO2 devices, more than I care to fess too:-)

I think each has it's utility.
Main thing is have the user be able to acheive the CO2 goals.
Nutrients are easy, so is light.

CO2 is the sticker.

Non CO2, non carbon enrichment methods are very successful by avoiding the CO2 gas.

So I try and take a good look every few years at CO2 and try and rethink the wheel.

I rattled on about the mist method, now this and there's another one coming down the road.

Also, just the fundamental ways we approach testing and achieving a good CO2 level for the plants.

Too many folks have issues with this problem.
I've begun the simply tell folks not to rely on the test kits, but rather dial the amount in with the test kit.....then add a little bit more, slowly, to achieve the best effect. It's basically eyeballed at the end.

I use the Sweetwater air stones, best damn airstone I've used in 30 years. 1.70$ does as well as the Azoo CO2 disc(better in some respects).

But the active part of the powerhead is a key thing, and nice needled wheel powerhead, a very small one would be ideal.

BTW, both the Sweetwater and the powerhead option will really make the Hagen ladder look obsolete!

You can also run a loop of 1/2" tubing from the powerhead on the outside of the tank, much like a garden hose holder stand, to give the mist more contact, but I think simply blasting into the leaves is a better idea and less stuff in the tank. You can hide the powerhead pretty easily.

Other thing about the powerhead and ther sweetwater stones, no backpressure at all, means you can use them very easily with DIY brew CO2.

The other thing: the powerhead method allows you to turn off the CO2 at night when it's not needed.

Unless you buy a solenoid for 40-70$, or have one already, this might be a better option.

It also adds more current when you need it most, during the day.

Regards,
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com

Tom,

I like the idea to have less large sized entities in my tank to do the same trick (or even better) than my existing setup with a PlantGuild reactor.

The one thing that concerns me about this system is actually the one that you praise about it – the current it creates. Not having tested it directly (but I have a Rio 200) I would assume that an output of 200gph (if I am not mistaken) is rather strong and would tend to blow thin leaved plants almost flat to the substrate, or at least strongly to one side. What is your experience in that regard?

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

You can blast the current into a piece of wood, side of the tank, into the gravel, add the spray bar to the output etc.
If you use a spray bar, have the bar positioned vertically, this will hide a spray much better and provide a nice current pattern as well. This is good for small/med tank sizes, larger tanks can have the powerghead down low and the spray along the back bottom right above the substrate.

I personally like the swetwater diffuser fine stones, they run 1.70$, produce as fine as mist as any disc type diffuser, has zero backpressure, and smaller than most disc.

The current from a filter, spray bar etc can be used to blast the mist around the tank.

Main thing is to provide several cheap options for CO2 diffusion and delievery that work well with DIY and gas tank CO2.

Nice thing is, you can plug the powerhead into the light timer to shut the CO2 off at night.
Means you get to add more CO2 during the day when you need it(you never need CO2 at night).


Regards,
Tom Barr

www.BarrReport.com


Regards,
Tom Barr

Thanks Tom,

You just gave me a few new ideas on how I can position my spraybar and how - and where - I could add a powerhead without blasting all my plants to one side of the tank.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Is it noisy? Thanks.

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