FishProfiles.com Message Forums

I think my phosphate is high...don't have a test kit yet though. I have a type of red algae in my 55g, possibly beard algae. If my phosphate is high, what is a good phosphate remover?

55g planted tank with AC 70 filter

8 head and tailights
4 rummies
1 BN
1 angel
1 German Ram
1 otto
8 corydoras sodalis/trilineatus
6 panda cories
3 yoyos

130w of light from coralife compact fluorescent light

What could I use that would be ok with the fish and plants?

Last edited by GirlieGirl8519 at 14-Jan-2006 23:44

*Kristin*

Kristin,

Don’t assume high phosphates; make sure that this is the case before you decide on a treatment. Adding chemicals to reduce phosphates can cause other problems, for example: destroy the phosphates and you have a nutrient imbalance with nitrites and low plant uptake, aka other algae troubles.

As for testing: test the tank and the tab water.

Ingo

---

Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Beard algae is not caused by phosphates. It's a lack of Co2.

Do not use a phosphate remover as they usually suck up Nitrates too.

If you are doing regular water changes use Flourish Excel as a carbon source. As well as improving the health of the plants it's got side effect of killing beard algae.

If not injecting Co2 there's only 2 methods that will be consistently successful - no water changes OR dosing Excel and water changes.

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

bensaf,

Explain this no water change thing? Basicly will the algea use up everything in the tank and die off?

55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric

Explain this no water change thing?

What, again ??

Algae, like plants, need and like CO2. We get around this by either injecting CO2 to a high and stable rate, this is to the plants advantage allowing them to outgrow and squeeze out algae. Where Co2 injection is not an option, low and stable levels are preferable.

Note I keep stressing stable. The problem with water changes is that tap water is rich in Co2. By doing water changes we are giving a short weekly shot of Co2, which disappears quickly. The problem is these sudden shots of Co2 do nothing for plants but aid algae greatly. By avoiding water changes you avoid these sudden surges and keep everything more stable. Just top up for evaporation and do a water change every few months.

Of course most find it difficult to mentally come to terms with no water changes. But why do we do water changes ? To dilute nitrates to prevent build up and to protect fish. This is fine in a fish only tank. But in a well planted tank nitrates aren't going to build up, so water changes are just a habit.

Seachem Equilibrium will keep the GH up if needed.

There's pros and cons to this method. It is very low maintenance and generally works very well, probably the easiest method to be successful at. But growth is painfully slow so you need patience. But once the plants get to where you want them they look good for a long time. It's better done with low/moderate light, so there's a limit on the amount of species that can be grown, but it's still a longer list then most think. The tank can get quite gunky without the EC's , some don't like that some aren't bothered. Fish stock needs to be kept on the low side, some don't like that.

It's a good method and one that is ideal for certain folks.

For those with multiple planted tanks it's great. Nobody can handle having a lot of Co2 tanks running at the same time. Too much work, you'd need to retire and never leave the house, having a trimming scissors surgically implanted into your hand would almost be a neccessity. Most with multiple tanks, will only have one or two with Co2 , the rest would be non-co2/no water changes.

If you can't handle the no water change, whether it be because of the gunk, or just plain 'ol neurosis, then Excel is the way to go.

Look up Tom Barr's non Co2 methods.

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

Thanks guys. I will just try to be consistent with my ferts...which include Excel...because I haven't been. I wouldn't mind the no water changes...I would have to gravel vac though (I have a gravel vac that only vacs...no water taken out). My BN is quite wasteful and I have to clean up after him alot.

I came up with the phosphate idea because after my algae stuff was identified as possibly a type of red algae...I searched it and most sites said high phosphates were one cause.

I will try the Excel and hope it goes away. That stuff is awful looking. I have pictures in the Water Quality section.

*Kristin*

Take my advice and test your dechlorinator. The dechlorinator which i have been using for over 2 years now has been adding phosphates into the water all that time. I am going to switch over to Seachems Prime and use peat to maintain a stable pH. You can take a look about this in my thread in the planted tank section.
http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/Planted%20Aquaria/67954.html?200601161339