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i have only plain blue gravel substrate. im wondering (silly) if i really need to put fert in my aquarium??? i have 20g and 10g planted tanks.

20g:
Bacopa caroliana
Hygro red
Java moss
Cabomba green and red
Rotala nanjens and rotundifolia
i have 2.2wpg and diy co2(9-15) ph is 7-7.3 and kh is 5

10g
Corkscrew val
Pygmy chain sword
Egeria densa
Java moss'
Bacopa caroliana
Rotala rotundifolia
i have 2.6wpg, no diy co2 ph is 8 and kh is 5

suggestions welcome....thx

Last edited by tankie at 10-May-2005 10:49

Last edited by tankie at 10-May-2005 10:56

Maybe up your CO2 a little and measure your nitrates. Try to keep them in the 15-20ppm range.

The best thing to do with ferts, I've learned from others and now through experience, is to wait and see if your plants show that they need it. Then start out doing half the suggested dose, then move upwards from there. If yuor plants are growing just fine and if you're supplying macros, theres no need for extra ferts IMO

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In addition to what has already been said....
I've found more harm comes from dosing ferts when you're not running CO2. CO2, even a DIY unit will allow the plants to use more of the light energy rather than the algae. There's only a limited ammount of light that the plants can make use of without having co2 added to the tank. Adding the CO2 allows them to use more. If you combine a no CO2 situation with ferts...well lets just say my experience with it hasn't been plesant .
Read thru [link=this site]http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_nutrient.htm" style="COLOR: #EB4288[/link] for info on nutrient defincency .

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suggestions welcome....thx

You'll get the best suggestions from you plants. As nowhere said watch them and they'll tell you what's needed and when.
It's very difficult to tell if somebody needs to add fert or not. Too many variables - light, plant load, fish stock, tap water etc. Observation is a better method.

Nitrates is important so keep an eye on that, make sure it doesn't drop below 5ppm. If the Nitrates are ok chances are the other macro nutrients are too.
Cacium and Mg can be checked by measuring GH. If you have 4 degress or more of GH you are fine for those.

Micros are impossible to measure (with the exception of Fe if you have a really good test kit). Adding unneccesary micros in the form of a liquid fert can sometimes do more harm then good. The good news is that micro defiencies usually show up quickly and can be rectified just as quickly.

Watch the new growth. If it's coming out fresh and green all should be well. If coming out pale, yellow or stunted you may have a problem.

If the plants are doing ok, just leave it be, don't fix what isn't broken. As the plants become more established problems may arise if they consume more nutrients then is provided naturally. So just watch the plants and react accordingly.

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