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L# Freshwater Species
 L# Tetra Talk
  L# Rummy Nose
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SubscribeRummy Nose
bettachris
 
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i want to get some rummy nosed tetras, and this will be first in dealing with these fishes.

now i been looking around in books, and ran across something.

a) is there really a difference between true rummy nose and false?

b) what is the physical and keeping difference exist

c) what do u suggest for a 30 long (empty now, but with a school of cards)
Post InfoPosted 19-Jun-2006 04:43Profile Homepage Yahoo PM Edit Report 
sirbooks
 
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Yes. There are physical differences between each of the three species. They can be pretty subtle, but they are there. Basically Hemigrammus bleheri is the most common rummynose, and has the best and strongest red color. The other two species don't have as large of a red area on the head, and it is often not as brilliant.

There isn't really a difference in keeping any of the three species, though you'd be lucky to find other than H. bleheri. Just keep the water very clean, and low in dissolved solids.

I'm not sure what you mean by this. How many? If this is going to be a typical community tank, then maybe eight rummies.



And when he gets to Heaven, to Saint Peter he will tell: "One more Marine reporting, Sir! I've served my time in Hell."
Post InfoPosted 19-Jun-2006 05:17Profile MSN PM Edit Delete Report 
zachf92
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male usa
the false rummynose is different from the brilliant rummynose and the banded rummynose in that it is larger- sometimes even capable of reaching over 3in!
Post InfoPosted 19-Jun-2006 05:43Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
Calilasseia
 
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male uk

On a tangential note, if you're getting Rummies, take precautions.

In other threads on Rummies, I've cautioned people to check the provenance of their stock. Singapore stock is frequently 'hot housed' to raise the fry to a saleable size in a shorter time, and unfortunately, not every wholesaler has got the message and 'winds them down' to more normal temperatures before shipping them to retailers.

Even if your wholesaler DOES 'wind down' Singapore stock, or ships locally bred ones that don't suffer from this problem, transport shock is acute in these fishes. Bruce Moomaw cited in another thread that the stress pheromones of these fishes are particularly powerful, and they can literally end up dying of fright. The way to mitigate against this is to ensure that once they are bagged, they are kept in total darkness during transit. You can do this simply by wrapping the bags in several layers of newspaper and securing it with sticky tape, or if you have one of those insulated picnic boxes for keeping things cool, you can put the fish bags in that (it'll keep them warm too). Polystyerne foam boxes or 'Poly Boxes' are the aquarist's greatest friend here - people who transport large numbers of fishes to fish shows collect Poly Boxes specifically for fish transportation. These are worth their weight in gold if you can get them!

If you're a bit handy with paper, scissors and sticky tape, you can make a Poly Box from polystyrene ceiling tiles. Takes a bit of skill, but it can be done, and is a LOT cheaper than buying them!

Oh, and once you have even a home made Poly Box, it will be a valued asset in transporting ANY fishes, let alone species that are sensitive to transport shock like Rummies. It will maintain stabler bag water temperatures (polystyrene foam is an excellent insulator) and it will keep the fishes darkened and calm during any journeys. A good Poly Box is essential for transporting sensitive fishes, and if you ever move into saltwater, you'll be very glad I told you how to make your own Poly Boxes to custom sizes when you start transporting things like Chaetodon butterfly fishes and Purple Queen Anthias!


Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002
Post InfoPosted 20-Jun-2006 14:12Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
bettachris
 
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umm.. that wouldnt be good if they all died on the way home.

i am going to a wholesaler to pick up some fish on mon, and i did already order them.(i believe these fish are coming from Asia, but i dont know if the sinapore thing applys.)

i will double bag them and wrap them in newspaper and they will go with the others in a sytro box. inside a cardboard box.

is there anything i am doing wrong for the trip, and what should i espically look at while they are in the tank. like eyes etc....
Post InfoPosted 21-Jun-2006 22:21Profile Homepage Yahoo PM Edit Delete Report 
Calilasseia
 
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One of the beautiful aspects of Rummy Nose Tetras is that they act like "mine canaries" - they signal if something is wrong.

Happy Rummies have lovely ruby red faces ... like this one from my previous collection. The moment they're upset, they go pale.

Perform acclimatisation in subdued lighting when you get them home. Leave the lights off for a good two or three hours while they settle into the aquarium. Increase the light levels gradually if that is possible, then see if they'll eat. Best thing to do if you can when getting them, is pick up a couple of bags of live Daphnia - then feed the live Daphnia to the Rummies after acclimatisation. First of all, live food boosts your fishes wonderfully, and in the case of your Rummies, will help take their minds off the fact that they've just been moved. Nothing like little edible yummy treats hopping before their eyes to get them in the mood to settle in!

If they're kept dark in transit, don't receive too many jolts on the way home (no hitting speed bumps at 70 mph if you're driving a car!) and acclimatised carefully once they're home, they should colour up nicely. Live food should speed this process. Usually, Rummies I've bought have become acclimatised within 8 hours, but then I'm a 20 minute cycle journey from the LFS. If they haven't started to colour up within 24 hours, they've probably had a shock before you bought them. Be patient with them - they take their time sometimes, but if they're decent stock, they'll respond to TLC.

You'll also notice, when they ARE acclimatised, that they go pale when you do a water change and gravel vac, and look very pale and frightened immediately afterwards. Don't worry. Once they realise they're now in fresh, clean water, they'll colour up again. They're easily spooked. Once they've had the water change & gravel vac, and they're settled again, they'll show their appreciation for the nice clean water by turning a lovely ruby colour around the face.

Oh, if you get good ones, and look after them well, they last a long time. I had one that lasted 8 years, the lone survivor of a shoal of 8 - the others in the shoal lasted over 6 years.

Panda Catfish fan and keeper/breeder since Christmas 2002
Post InfoPosted 22-Jun-2006 04:51Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
janenenc
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I have 4 rummynoses in my tank (which they share with neon's, black phantoms & Pristella's, a cloan loach & a bristlenose) and find that they are often pale when I first turn on their tank light in the morning, but soon colour up once I feed them. I've had them for about 3 years now and I remember when I bought them home they were almost completely white in colour. During that time I think I've lost one or two rummynoses but haven't bothered replacing them.
Post InfoPosted 05-Jul-2006 03:23Profile MSN Yahoo PM Edit Delete Report 
GirlieGirl8519
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female usa
Most all tetras, or really fish lose color when the lights go out.

Rummies will be pale when stressed. Many times in the stores they will be really pale.

Bettachris, if you haven't gotten them yet, I'd only put a couple in each bag. If you put a big group together, the stuff they release when stressed will be less. Many times that is what kills them during transport. They release more than other tetras. Sorry I can't think of the proper name of the stuff. Keep them in the dark also.

*Kristin*
Post InfoPosted 06-Jul-2006 01:54Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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