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I have a bala shark that is sick. His lower fins have turned red. I will try to attach a photo but it might not work. Can anyone help? Thanks!
Sara

HI Sara and welcome to fishprofiles.com

Many things can cause fish to show such redness so we have lots of questions for you to answer. We generally like to start by looking at the environment and water quality before even considering bacterial infection. If something is "off" in the water, meds can make it worse.

What size tank is this?

How long has it been running?

When did you purchase this fish?

How many fish are in the tank and what kind? Provide lengths for fish that grow larger, like the sharks and tell us what kind of shark is he. What does he look like if you don't know. Use our Profiles section to search *shark* and see if you can pick it out.

Very important is to understand: Do you know if it is "cycled". (see Nitrogen Cycle and New Tank Syndrome Explained)

In order to see where you are in the cycle, we need to see the following readings (you can take a bag of water to most fish stores if you don't have one or more of these tests).

Ammonia:
Nitrite:
Nitrate:
pH:
Temp:

What do you add to the tank? Salt? pH adjuster? Fertilizers? Water conditioner for chlorine/chloramine?

How often do you do water changes? When was your last change? High nitrates can cause redness in the fins, as can other natural toxins.

Copy and paste this so you can answer. Give us what you have for now if you don't have it all, then come back later. Either I or someone else will come in to help you further.

In order to help you with meds and other things, can you tell us what country you live in?

Diane

[span class="edited"][Edited by Cory_Di 2004-07-15 09:36][/span]

What size tank is this? 10 Gallon

How long has it been running? a little over a year

When did you purchase this fish? 2 months ago

How many fish are in the tank and what kind? 5 guppies and 3 ghost shrimp. I have noticed that one of my female guppies has also turned red.

Do you know if it is "cycled"? No

What do you add to the tank? Salt? no
pH adjuster? yes- Jungle pH increaser
Fertilizers? yes- Stress Zyme
Water conditioner for chlorine/chloramine? yes- Stress Coat
I also use AlgaeFix. I have used all the products since I started.

How often do you do water changes? once a month

When was your last change? Last weekend

Please help me.

Oh and the shark is a Bala Shark (Balantiocheilos melanopterus). They are also know as Silver Shark and
Tricolor Shark. Thanks
Sara

do you ave propper test kits??

ammonia
nitrite
nitrate
pH
Hardness

proper testing is absolutely neccesary


I know that some sources say that once a montth is frequent enough for water changes, but really, can they be to frequent?? I do a 20% water change twice a week, and more often if i'm trouble shooting.

No I do not have a testing kit. Should I get one? about how much are they?
Sara

I agree with Mike.

Also, a bala belongs in a much bigger tank, like a 50. Here, read our profile on Bala Shark

Note the size to which it will grow. It is a slow grower, but depending on it's size, will need a much bigger tank in another year or so. Also, it will begin to turn real cranky if it is in a smaller tank, like a 10.

Your problem could be nitrates and a drop in pH. pH adjusters don't do much of anything other than yoyo the pH. These are not toxic unless they are 100ppm or higher. If really high, they could cause the redness you describe. We really need to see those test results fast. If you go to a fish store, pick up some Maracyn and Maracyn-two to keep on hand. These are good to keep if there is a bacterial infection. If ammonia and nitrite are zero and if nitrates are less than 40ppm, and if pH is not really low (below 7) then you can dose these meds together after removing the activated carbon. However, you should have an ammonia test kit to measure for ammonia while medicating.

I'm thinking that with monthly changes the nitrate could be really high and the pH may be dropping. There may even be some ammonia, depending on how big this bala is (please tell us how long he measures). In other words, the tank could be going through "old tank syndrome".

Do you gravel vac when you do water changes?

Has your power gone out in recent weeks for more than an hour?

Keep talking and we'll figure out what is going on, but we really need those test results. Also, please take some time to study the nitrogen cycle so you understand how good bacteria keeps naturally occuring toxins in control. We'll answer any questions you have after you read it.

Are you an adult? Or do you have to rely on someone else to take you to the store?

Also, in the meanwhile, you can help the situation out a little. Bag some water for the fish store. Then, do a partial water change of 15% or 1.5 gallons with the same temp water. Make sure it is same temp. Repeat this again tomorrow and the next day. If the tank is going through old-tank syndrome, we can help the situation with these water changes and maybe the fish will start to improve.

It is important to bag some water before we start these changes and to get it checked to day. We need to see where the pH, ammonia, and nitrAtes are at before we start. Please take a pencil with you to the fish store and paper to write down the numbers. Let us interpret them, please.

Skip the pH adjusters, especially if you are using tap water. This can really stress them. Tap water is usually hard enough and with the water changes, hopefully, you will see it gradually raise.

Are the fish eating? Are they acting normal?

Oh - and the kH reading Mike speaks of would really help us if we see the pH is low.

[span class="edited"][Edited by Cory_Di 2004-07-15 11:52][/span]

I am 14. I do use a gravel vaccum when I do a water change. My bala shark is about 3.5 inches long. My sister said she can take me to petsmart. I was going to get another tank but I guess I should get a test kit about how much are these test kits?

This is one of the best and cheapest http://www.petmeister.com/item1538.htm

For now, make sure you have ammonia and pH. Make sure the pH tester is capable of going down to at least 6. You can buy the same brand.

Have the fish store test your water for nitrAtes, nitrItes (not the A and I - don't mix them up), and kH (carbonate hardness). You may need to go back in a few days to retest these unless you can have a tester on hand. If you can afford 3 testers, I would get nitrates, if they show your nitrates to be really high (100ppm or higher).

I really think your tank is crashing. 3.5 inch bala is a big change on a little tank like that. Let's see the numbers. If you can afford to pick up Maracyn and Maracyn-2 that will help to have on hand. But, you can skip buying it, if the fish store shows elevated ammonia, really high nitrates and a low pH (below 7). We will work on water quality and see if that improves their redness. Let the fish store check all of those values for you. But, write them down. I can't stress this enough. We can't interpret "Ok" or "within range". It is meaningless.

Good luck

I seen you had another thread going and that one will be locked so we can get it all into one thread.

Some fish stores will take fish back, but until the redness is gone, you cannot return him. Also, if your tank is crashing and pH is really low, we need to get your pH back up. It may be wise to ask teh fish store for a reading on the bala shark tank they have there to compare it to yours. You should be at a similar level. DON'T use pH adjusters. Small daily water changes, same temp, are the best way to get it back on track.

This is so confusing!!! Ok so I will take a sample of water to petsmart and get some test strips. Can I get a complete kit? Or which ones do I get?

Buy these at the very least and they are not "strips". Strips are more costly and have fewer tests. They are harder to read. These bottles will last you a year. Hit these links from PetSmart.

Ammonia

Nitrate

pH Tester

Have the fish store test your water for kH and nitrIte.

I was simply saying that you should have them test the water for all of those tests since you will take a bag in. Otherwise, save some of the bag water for yourself so you can get a baseline of where we were when we started.

This is all science. Your tank was probably fine with the few fish and ghost shrimp you had in there. Now that the 3.5 inch bala was added, it threw things off and I think it may be too much on the tank. You can get by for a short while with frequent water changes, like weekly. BUt we need to get things back in line first with small daily changes. You will need to look at your numbers daily until that happens. This is what the test kits are for.

We were all confused at first. You'll learn. Shoot from the hip aquarium keeping and guestimating is ok. However, taking a scientific approach is what will keep your fish healthy. IT starts with knowing where your tank is at with all of these tests.



[span class="edited"][Edited by Cory_Di 2004-07-15 12:52][/span]

Ok. I do not know if this helps but I had the shark first. then I added the ghost shrimp and guppies.

Ok - either way, that tank is headed for trouble with the current stock and the redness is supporting that, be it bacterial or from chemical burns (ammonia, low pH, etc).

Get us those readings as soon as you can.

What kind of filtration is on this tank?

I do wish you had followed my request to get the numbers:

But, write them down. I can't stress this enough. We can't interpret "Ok" or "within range". It is meaningless.

What is "a little high" for the nitrates????

Not all aquarists understand the effects of high nitrates because it is only recent that scientists have come to an understanding that they dilate blood vessels and produce redness. Depending on how high they are, "weekly" may not be enough for now. Daily changes for several days will get them down to 10-20ppm which is what you should target. If those nitrates are up around 100ppm, I know weekly changes just won't cut it. Don't make your water changes based on time. Make it based on a target for nitrates.

What was the pH??? "Normal" can be 6-8 which is a HUGE range. What is "normal" for one fish, is "not normal" for another. a 0.2 difference in 24 hours is all they can handle. So, a drop from 7.8 down to 6.8 can be lethal if it happens in anything less than a span of several days.

I do hope the ammonia and nitrite "normal" were zero-normal and not "a little elevated zero". We get this all the time here. Someone will tell us these things are in normal range only to learn later that there was a slight elevation. This is a big deal.

Stick around fishprofiles.com. We have people of all ages here and kids as young as 9 and 10 who understand and can talk about the nitrogen cycle, ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. My 11 year old nephew does testing on his tank regular and understands the nitrogen cycle. Don't just keep fish; understand the science behind it.

[span class="edited"][Edited by Cory_Di 2004-07-15 19:43][/span]