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what products have you used to treat them? He is currently in a 10 gallon (55 almost done with fishless cycle) with one other dojo loach and three guppys. He is the smaller of the two loaches (about three inches, the other one is about four) and he is the only one that appears to have it. I have another 10 gallon I can put him in (empty breeding tank), but it is not cycled. Should I seperate him for treatment??
Thanks

I did some research and read about people doing a salt/raised temp treatment. Your supposed to use marine salt to get 2 ppt and raise the temp to 86F for 10 days. They say it's great for loaches, but mine are dojo, and I worry about temps that high. I keep my tank at 72F. Would they survive this?

Don't ever do that "research" again...

Some old and archaic salt remedies are still in the hobby and I can't for the life of me figure out why.

"Rid Ick Plus" should take care of your ick problem and the whole tank must be treated. Follow product directions.

There's been a rash of ick breakouts lately, a sad response by fish that are either chilled or badly taken care of.

Heaters, heaters, heaters, are required in all tanks for tropicals to allow for a constant, repeat, constant water temp. Even a slight variation of two degrees down can trigger the ich parasite to attack a weakened fish.

--garyroland.

thanks gary. I traced it back to a water change three days ago. I had been kind of iffy about the salt/temp treatment since I had never heard of it on this site before. I'm heading out to look for rid ick plus now.

There is a high heat treatment where no meds are used but for large tanks only...

If you'll keep your tank and new water at a consistent and dead-on matching temp, your fish will love you.

--garyroland.

I wasnt able to find any Rid Ick Plus here, but I got a product called Quinsulex by Aquatronics. It says it's for scaleless fish and community tanks. I'll let you know how well it works.

Never heard of it but who knows?? It may be OK...

--garyroland.

I have to agree with the rid-ich plus. Not overly strong and seems to get the job done. Agree with the heating too. I have a tank that fluctuates from 80.3F to 80.5F during the course of 24 hours. That's as big a fluctuation as I would want to see in my tanks. If the room the fishtank is in goes from 70F at night to 79F during the day or something, keep the heaters at 79F even if the fish "prefer" a temp of 74F according to your research. They'll thank you for it by not breaking out.

Small gallonage tanks, unheated, drop in temp quicker than large tanks of about 45 gallons and up...

It's the rapid fluctuating temps that stress fish the most, breaking down their resistance to disease.

--garyroland.