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 L# Planted Aquaria
  L# CO2 and PH
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SubscribeCO2 and PH
elilk
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Small Fry
Posts: 6
Kudos: 3
Votes: 3
Registered: 11-Mar-2008
female australia
EditedEdited by elilk
Hi guys,
Just wondering if anyone knows whether when using diy co2, your pH will stabilize after dropping, or does it keep dropping? I'm using API test kit but the lowest pH it shows is 6, and that's what I'm at so I need to know if it is going lower but I cant see it..
I'd like to put some endlers or shrimp in there eventually but need to stabilize the pH first.

pH was 7.2 before Co2 started
2.5 gallon bowl
freshly planted with Hairgrass
15 watt flouro 6500k
Seachem Flourish
1.5 litre DIY Co2 1 bbps
GH 250ppm
No fish yet so I'm assuming no ammonia nitrite, or nitrate.

Thanks, Elise
Post InfoPosted 25-Feb-2009 13:40Profile PM Edit Report 
FRANK
 
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Moderator
Posts: 5108
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Registered: 28-Dec-2002
male usa us-colorado
EditedEdited by FRANK
Hi,
When using the DIY CO2 injection, you get an initial surge
of CO2 output because the mix is new. As the mix ages
alcohol forms (the CO2 is the result of the fermentation
of the yeast and sugar mix) and dilutes the mix and the
CO2 output drops off gradually until none is produced.

In a 2.5G tank, the output of a 2 liter bottle would
produce that effect. It's simply too much CO2 for that
small a tank. It would overwhelm the tank.

Your best, and really only, solution is to use a liquid
Carbon such as Seachem's Excel. Just a teaspoon or two
will maintain the carbon where it should be and not
affect your pH. The injected CO2 forms a weak acid and
that is what lowers your pH.

Frank

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 25-Feb-2009 17:40Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
elilk
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Small Fry
Posts: 6
Kudos: 3
Votes: 3
Registered: 11-Mar-2008
female australia
Thanks frank,
Maybe I'll experiment with a very small bottle and not much yeast..(because I'm stubborn) if it still doesn't work I'll start using liquid form. Just to clarify, if a constant amount of co2 is being injected, the ph will drop to reflect that amount, and as long as it remains constant it won't keep dropping?
cheers
Post InfoPosted 27-Feb-2009 04:48Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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*Ultimate Fish Guru*
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Registered: 26-Apr-2003
male australia au-victoria
For something that size I think you might find it difficult to regulate and I dont think you will have much room for any error
I only use Seachem liquids Flourish Excel and Iron one ml each per day. The Potassium 2ml twice a week and nitrogen one ml twice a week.
These amounts were worked out for me by Seachem when I sent them all my Parameters.
I also use Seachem fert tabs as recommended added every 3 months

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
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Post InfoPosted 27-Feb-2009 07:45Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
FRANK
 
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Registered: 28-Dec-2002
male usa us-colorado
EditedEdited by FRANK
Hi,
Yes, IF the rate of injection remains constant THEN
the pH will stabilize at "A" reading - as long as the KH
remains the same.

When you inject CO2, it forms a weak carbolic acid which,
of course, lowers the pH reading. How much a specific
amount of CO2 will affect the pH reading depends upon the
Carbonate Hardness (KH) of the tank as the carbonate will
try to buffer the acid (neutralize it).

Use Baking Soda to maintain a KH of 4.

With a bottled system, you can set the rate of CO2 injection
By the use of what is called a "bubble counter"
http://www.aquadirect.com/store/product.php?productid=17308&cat=1000&page=1
One adjusts the needle valve on the regulator so that
you are injecting say, one bubble per second, and then
note the pH change over several hours. By plotting the
pH vs the KH on a chart, you get the CO2 saturation of
the water.
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm
Aqua Gardeners keep their tanks within the "green" area of
the chart.

Thats how it works with a "bottled" system consisting of
a tank, 2 stage regulator, bubble counter, and a CO2 diffuser.

With a DIY system, there is no way to store the excess
CO2. If you try, then because of the parts used, the
hose connections spring leaks, or (worst case) the plastic
2 liter bottle blows up (believe me, you DON'T want that
to happen!!!) *Sorry, personal experience snuck into
the discussion.*

When you mix the yeast, sugar, and water, there is a surge
in CO2 production, then as the mix ages, the amount of CO2
given off drops off. For a 30G tank, it will take two
active generators, in series, to produce enough CO2
to make a difference.
And, You will need to have two more bottles that you can
throw together to replace the two active ones.
Frankly, I tried the DIY CO2 route for a month on my 30G
tank, and while it made a visible difference in the plants
and plant growth, it was a real CHORE to keep up with the
system and life became full of cleaning bottles, prepping
mixes, and repairing leaks. After a month, when it was
obvious that injected CO2 worked, I bought a bottled
system and have never looked back. The 5 pound bottle that
I have lasts 6 - 7 months at one bubble per second, and
costs me $9 and some change (tax) to refill.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 27-Feb-2009 17:06Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
elilk
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Small Fry
Posts: 6
Kudos: 3
Votes: 3
Registered: 11-Mar-2008
female australia
Thanks frank, Awesome reply
Keithg, I really don't want to do that much dosing for this tank, It's just a little side project.
I Also have a 50 gallon I've been Diy co2ing as well, I think your right about the bottle system Frank I may just have to look into it (woohoo tax returns!) the two tanks are too far apart to share though and the big one needs it more.. oh well wish me luck I hope I don't explode anything, it sounds nasty!
Post InfoPosted 28-Feb-2009 04:34Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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