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Chaos,

I didn't mean to imply that you were definitely overfeeding, I just meant if you can cut back it will only help, but truthfully it's the light plant mass thing IMO.

Don't go cheap on the add'l plants, buy alot and just plant some and others float.

I would do alot of water changes if you can. Like three a week 50%. That will cut back on the nh3 in the water column.

As far as the lights. I don't want to kill your HC and I think it needs good light. I've never had it so I'm sure the others will chim in. That 4 wpg on for 9 hours is definitely a problem. based would be 2wpg for 9 and 4 wpg for like 3 or 4. Maybe there's a technical way around the situation.






My Scapes

based would be 2wpg for 9 and 4 wpg for like 3 or 4. Maybe there's a technical way around the situation.

Like imposing on my work at home mom? I doubt she would mind much, but I would prefer a different solution. I could turn 2wpg on a noon, 4wpg at 6 when I get home and then all of at 9? Does that sound better?

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

It's a mess.

I'm going to be brutally honest here so if you can't take, look away.

It's a mess not because of lights or overfeeding or any other fanciful notion.

It's a mess because it's been badly set up and badly maintained.

I have the diy co2 and some generic fert which is NO3 source mostly.

What generic fert ? Mostly No3 , what else ? Is it an aquatic fert ? If not chances are it may have some urea or Nh4 in there which will just feed the alage.

Not adding P yet ? Any micros going in ?

You have no regimen for dosing, it's hit and miss. No doubt the yeast mixture is behaving the same way. You've no reactor.

Basically you're whole fert regime is unbalanced and out of whack. The set up was rushed. You started with only some of the components (no Co2) and today are still missing some.

Now you can try to figure out lights and bio colonies until the cows come home but it ain't going to change squat. You've created and maintained an environment that is advantageous for algae and not plants.

Clean it up, clean it good. Bleach rocks,and in tank equipment and do a bleach mild bleach dip (19 parts water 1 part bleach for 2 minutes) on Anubias.
Start again, this time have a stable fert routine with a complete set of nutrients, if you are missing one the other are rendered useless, keep the co2 mixture fresh and find a way to dissolve your Co2. Keep up with water changes and keep the tank/equipment/glass clean.

Do this simple routine and you will avoid this mess. In a tank that size it takes less then an hour a week.

Anything else or just picking and choosing what you want to do will not work.

Or you can sit around pondering the mysteries of bio-colonies and lighting schedules and watch the tank go down the tubes.

Tough love.Being cruel to be kind. Add your own cliche here.

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

I guess the screws in the tank, should have been an indicator that something was amiss.

I'm certainly not going to disagree with anything Bensaf said, because it's true. All those things need to be in place to truly have a healthly, growing planted tank.

But with those lights, and virtually no plant matter, even if all those things are done, I still thing your in a world of hurt, algae wise. There is simply no plant mass to do anything with all those good ingredients. Where would it go. Without the high light and limited mass at least the algae would be from this dimension and something we could wither away with that sound advice from Bensaf.

I think we should create a scary tank thread. I have a few pics from an old tank that would probably qualify and chaos you have a few good ones from page 9, when my son got spooked.

My Scapes

Bensaf,

After leaving work I was considering putting up on the forum a post mentioning that I can take real criticism, because it did seem like things are going more wrong than they should if I was approaching this right and I wasnt sure if this was or was not fundamentaly my fault.

So.... It turns out it is my fault. Im sure you are right. My two previous tanks did not provide any expirence thats really relavant to this. They were ~1 wpg tanks without live plants and there were never problems like this. Anyway I never did the reading I intended to on plant nutrition and I didnt get a good picture of what is needed.


Ok, well enough of that. Ill approach this like a chemist from now. I can follow procedures and things but Ill need good information on this. So if you know a web page or other specific resource on plant nutrition that is a must for me to read I would like to know.

The specifics I can give you for now. The fertalizer is not miracle grow or anything.
It is this I said generic because my LFS doesnt seem to have much for plants, no phophate fertilizers and nothing that said micros on it so I assumed this was a decent product but from reading I dont think any of you use this. That is the only fert I have.

Ill order whatever I need to do ferts correctly and I would appreciate advice on which products specificly I should get to cover my plants needs.

I think CO2 is actually good now. I am using the sponges in the filter in my tank to trap the CO2 amongst moving water. The airstone in the picture is for air at night. Unfortunatly my previous flirtation with that acid buffer product is still messing up my test results (readings are way to high). Hopefully in a few water changes this will change.

For the bleach, what mixture ratio for the rocks and thermostat? It is possible the impleller can come out but the tank is pretty much one piece otherwise. Also, the whole anubias or just the leaves?

What is the order the restart should proceed though? Getting the proper nutrients first and begin dosing then do the bleaching?

Or you can sit around pondering the mysteries of bio-colonies and lighting schedules and watch the tank go down the tubes.

So, I really dont want to do the above, But your going to be getting rather a few more questions.

Chaos

Edit: Tetra, It still sounds like getting a few more of the anacaris makes sense.

I do think the screws are an entirely different thing though

You could add the BBA expirement tank, if you saw that one.

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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Ok lets work this out

You can do the bleaching first. The rocks equipment you can use pure bleach if you wish, just make sure to rinse well and soak for a bit in de-chlor. For the Anubias hold in the solution by the roots try to keep the roots away from the solution. Again rinse well.

Make sure normal bleach , no color or fragrances added.

Don't touch the HC.

You can just do a 3 day blackout to kill the algae , the anubias will be fine but I doubt the HC will survive.

Before you start up co2 again, you need the nutrients on hand. If you don't have all the nutrients do not switch on the Co2. Turn down lights to 2 wpg, if possible, turn down intensity not duration.

I'm not sure about the Kent product. I think it's micro type, probably very little N. If you could post a list of ingrediants it would help.

You need a source of N - Kno3/Stump remover or Flourish Nitrogen, a source of P KH2PO4 ?Fleets Enema or Flourish Phosphorous. A decent liquid fert like Flourish Regular or Tropica Master Grow.The Kent may be ok but would need to see the ingrediants.

That's it. No chemistry dgree need once you have those the ability to use a spoon is all that's needed But feel free to research and increase your knowledge.

For a tank that small making up liquid solutions of the N and P may be a good idea because of the small doses.

In the meantime I'd be adding about a rice grain sized portion of KNO3 and a smidgen of KH2PO4 3 times a week. Add about 3-5ml of the liquid fert 3 times a week on the alternate days to the N + P.

With small doses you really are better making a liquid solution for more accurate dosing. I'm in office and am pressed for time maybe somebidy else can talk you thru that, if not, I'll try to do later.
Flourish Nitrogen and Phosphorous is a very economical alternative for such a small tank and by far the easiest to dose.

Apart from that keep the Co2 good. Change the mixture regularly, don't wait for the output to drop, stability is key. Make sure it's being dissolved in the water.

50% water change weekly. Keep glass and filter clean.
Iwagumi's are challenging to start up due to the low plant mass. Personally I'm of the belief that a lot of plants at the start is critical. Especially in your case where HC is slow compared to glossos or hairgrass. Fill the tank with weeds, you don't have plant them, keep them in pots if you like so you can remove them later easily. Try not to shade the HC.

As the HC fills and spreads remove the other plants.

Keep up on this routine (30secs a day to dose, 30 mins each week for WC and cleaning) and things will come up good.

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

I'd be adding about a rice grain sized portion of KNO3 and a smidgen of KH2PO4

I don't want to sound hyppocritical (sp) but don't you mean it the other way around? Isn't a smidgen much more than a rice grain and as such there should be less KH2PO4 than KNO3?

Just checking to make sure

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

According to the US Department of Weights and Measures, a smidgen is equal to 1/4 rice grain. So in US terms Bensaf was right.

But he could be talking about Indinesian units, in which case he could be wrong...

Either way, chaos just needs a little bit of this stuff

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Back in the saddle!

the US Department of Weights and Measures, a smidgen is equal to 1/4 rice grain

Ha, you live and you learn

I was thinking that there is actually a grain and the kind of rice I eat fits easily in a smidgen spoon (if crumbled up). Anyway, I am too lazy to test out.

Thanks NowherMan6

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Isn't a smidgen much more than a rice grain and as such there should be less KH2PO4 than KNO3?

I have no idea. I didn't even know a smidgen was an actual measurement let alone that the US government had a department for these kind of things. I meant a very wee bit. Nowhwere will probably do a google on "wee"

Anyhow.........

Better to make a solution and add a given amount of mls, easier to measure. You can make up a solution using the nutrient calculator here http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_dosage_calc.htm

Dose 5-10ppm of NO3 3 times a week. 0.5-1.0ppm of PO4 3 times a week.

CO2 CO2 Co2 Co2

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

If you guys want to get technical

Dash 1/8 tsp
Pinch 1/16
Smidgen 1/32
Nip 1/64

It's a freaking ESTIMATIVE INDEX

My Scapes

Dash 1/8 tsp
Pinch 1/16
Smidgen 1/32
Nip 1/64
very wee bit 1/128



Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

No chemistry dgree need once you have those the ability to use a spoon is all that's needed

I am actually about 90% of the way to having my B.S. in chemistry. so thats good

Ill read this more throughly tonight, everything seems fine except the part where I might kill my HC. Ill remove it from the tank if I need to but Its so hard to find I dont want to seriously risk it if at all possible.

Choas

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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

I'm not sure about the Kent product. I think it's micro type, probably very little N. If you could post a list of ingrediants it would help.

I have that fertilizer to, and it's also the only thing I use. Its ingredients list is this:

SOURCES OF NUTRIENTS

Sodium Nitrate, Magnesium Sulfate, Boric Acid

OTHER INGREDIENTS

Deionized water, humic acid, kelp extract

I've only been using this for a week, so I can't tell if its really doing much to my plants...

Thanks.

Yep the Kent doesn't look to be much help. There's no real micros in it and the content of N is an unknown.
Much better to use KNO3 as the N source and a fert that will provide a broader range of micros - Flourish or TMG.

Your problem is definately , 100%, a nutrient issue.

Get this in line and you'll have few problems.

I don't think 48watts is a huge amount of light. With the nutrients in line shouldn't cause major problems.

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

Bensaf

It actually lists the content of N in a little corner on the label as 1%. I gather though that you prefer solid NO3 and PO4 and a liquid micros? Ive got to say, im going to end up wishing I had an analytical balance at home. Not that I will need it, but I love the accuracy.

ill show you guys a list of what I am looking to buy before I do so I end up with the right stuff.

Chaos

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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Hello all

you are loaded with all kinds of algae, the only one missing seems to be BGA.

So, about that BGA... A little showed up on some of the HC in the front (its limited to about a half inch square). Im blacking out the tank starting tonight, as perscribed, but I have heard that BGA is pernicous so if the blackout wont kill it I can remove it physically. Oh, come to think of it the HC has survived one period previously where it went through a few days at least in the dark to get here. Is there anything I should do as far as dosing, feeding fish that I should/shouldnt do during the blackout?

The bleaching scrubbing and water change will need to take place tomorrow (no appropriate bleach)

I was doing reading and decided to check up on my tap water quality. This is data from the water treatment plant. I am only showing the ones that I know apply, or might.
mg/L = ppm, ug/l = ppb

Fluoride mg/L 0.93
Nitrate mg/L 2.05
Phosphorous mg/L 0.30
Sulfate mg/L 26.1
Copper µg/L <10
Iron µg/L 16

The rest is here
In case there is anything else worth seeing

So, there are more nutrients comming with my water than I expected.

Im going to check with dc metro area fish store and see if anyone has the solid no3 and solid po4 salts and liquid micros. If anyone knows a store in the dc mero are which stock this stuff that would be helpfull.

Everything sound good with the plan?

Chaos

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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

The tap water looks fine.

KH is a little low.

GH is about 3dgh which is enough but shouldn't be any lower.
Mg is spot on at 4ppm. Calcium is 15-30ppm, should be ok for the plants you have.

So that just leaves the NPK and Micros.

I doubt you'll find the KNO3 and KH2PO4 at an LFS. Try a hydoponics store or order on-line very cheaply from www.gregwatson.com.

The micro fert should be easy enough to find at a decent LFS. Go for something like Tropica Master Grow or Flourish (Regular). A 50ml bottle should last you +6months .

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

KNO3 is available locally at Lowes home improvement stores in the form of Green Light Stump Remover, but since you're probably going to wind up ordering the KH2SO4 from gregwatson anyway you might as well get the KNO3 there as well, it's cheaper and finer in grain I think.

Don't waste money getting the flourish products for K and N.

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Back in the saddle!

As discussed you could order all you need from greg watson. For your 12 gallon by the time you run out of the one pound bags you won't have any hair left. It will last forever. Gregwatson also sells Flourish for the micros.

Or you could get the stuff locally, as nowher mentioned the greenlight stump remover is potassium nitrate and is usually found at Lowes you could also use a Fleet Enema for the po4 which I'm sure you could get anywhere. It's debatable whether you need to dose so4 separately becuase the amount you get in the no3 is pretty much inline with EI standards.

My Scapes

Nutrients on ze way!
I probably could get the stuff localy, at a decent lfs, but at a convienent LFS? unfortunatly no.

Shipping Method: UPS Ground
--------------------------
Product ID: Nitrate
Product Name: Potassium Nitrate 1 lb.
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $2.17
--------------------------
Product ID: PotassiumSulfate
Product Name: Potassium Sulfate 1 lb.
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $2.17
--------------------------
Product ID: PotassiumPhosphate
Product Name: Mono Potassium Phosphate 1 lb.
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $3.42
--------------------------
Product ID: Flourish
Product Name: Flourish
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $7.95

It's debatable whether you need to dose so4 separately becuase the amount you get in the no3 is pretty much inline with EI standards.

Ive got to say, this expirence being what it is, Im going to spend the 3 dollars and have the sulfate.

--- On a side note I wonder how much KNO3 you can buy before they are required to report you to the FBI. They do that will all sorts of thing in chem labs and I assume they do it with this.

-- On the main point is ther eanything else I should remember to do with the black out?

Chaos

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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Wow, I followed that link and the prices are great! I may be ordering myself soon!

"If you're afraid you'll make a mistake, you won't make anything."
-Family Circus

On a side note I wonder how much KNO3 you can buy before they are required to report you to the FBI.

Don't worry, they made an entry about you as soon as they saw your latest full tank pictures .

Anyway, KNO3 in itself does not contain enough K to balance the N, it is the combination of KNO3 with Potassium Phosphate that creates the balance (and I think there is quite a bit in Flourish as well). So if you dose a lot of Potassium Phosphate (what is your tab P? ) then you will for sure not need the Potassium Sulfate. But I am with you, these $3 will not kill you .

I am no expert on black-outs at all, never done one, so no useful info from me.

Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Chaos,

Just to make sure that I am on the right track, or to make sure that I am way off (either way, I would like to know):

I just saw your entry in the algae outbreak thread in the general forum. As tetratech said, you are a good sport .

But you made a comment there, and earlier you made a similar one here to, that makes me believe you misinterpret one of your algaes (or I am wrong, possible to). All the brown slime are diatoms, this is not Staghorn algae. I just want to make sure. I know the Dr. said something that can be interpreted as identifying the slime as Staghorn, but if this is really what he meant then I believe he is wrong. Your brown slime is based on silica and as long as you are getting more and more of it there must be some food source for it.

Here is a close-up of your own Staghorn, just to show the difference:

Attached Image:

Staghorn Algae

---

Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Anyway, KNO3 in itself does not contain enough K to balance the N, it is the combination of KNO3 with Potassium Phosphate that creates the balance (and I think there is quite a bit in Flourish as well).

OH LF your so precise or is it retentive. Most of the K is coming from the n03. You will had a "smidgen" more from the P and maybe the Flourish. In fact the K in the no3 alone brings the K to N ppm levels to a 4 to 6 ratio, which is pretty much inline with EI guidelines, plus of course what you get from the tap, flourish and P.
Remember your only dosing like 1 to 10, 1 to 8 P to N, so you can't be getting that much from that "smidgen"

My Scapes

OH LF your so precise or is it retentive

Didn't your forget the a*** word before retentive?

I guess I am a little of both , but seriously - I think part of it is the second language thing, it makes me tend to take words too literally. This has good and bad sides and most people, like my wife, have learned to live with a guy who does absolutely nothing if the request/question/anything is phrased loosely.



Ingo

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Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Hey,

I am clear what is the algae and what is the diatoms now. Though, what you circled on the top of the anubias is roots from the anubias, the bottom circle is algae.

Anyway I know what is what know. I looked em all up again, problem was no pictures of diatoms and the stagorn I found was little ammounts which didnt resemble mine.

Chaos

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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

I think I linked this before. This is a thread on APC showing excel treatment on staghorn with some very nice photos.

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/showthread.php?p=94640#post94640

My Scapes

Chaos,

Below is a link for a guide to starting up an aquarium that I've been looking over. The first pic on this page shows how bad what appears to be diatomic algae can get. It's an interesting guide, full of some what appear to be good tips.

http://www.vectrapoint.com/main/manual/bms9.html

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Back in the saddle!

I need to be a bit more awake when I write things What Ingo circled in the photo is indeed what I meant with Staghorn algae. Chaos, both circles are staghorn, neither are roots, I can see only one root in the upper circle.

Dr. Yeah, i see now that that is also staghorn, the pictures in tetra's link were helpfull with that, because it looks so much different from the other aglae in my tank.

Nowhere. Thats a very helpfull link. While I am now 4 or 5 weeks into my tank, I am at about the week 2 stage in that article. So I am doing the blackout and then begin nutrients. If only I had an army of shrimps.....

Thanks guys, particulaly the algae ridden 'nature aquarium' tank makes me feel better. And I think I am back on track, which is good.

Chaos

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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

I still would consider breaking it down and starting over. If you're not up for it that's understandable, but it's something that can be done on a Saturday when you have a few hours of free time. You only need a bucket holding container for the fish and a little cheap filter to run while they're in there. Just pull it all up, rinse it out, bleach what needs to be bleached, rinse, dechlor, replant and you'll be good as new. It'll only take a few hours and you can rest assured you're making a complete clean start. No decaying ammonia producing dead algae every which place to worry about (oh yes, there will be lots after a blackout)

This time you can start over with lots of hungry stem plants in the back and floating. I think that website does a pretty decent job at showing how to set up a new tank. (except for that part about the shrimp - sure, put 200 ammano shrimp in the tank, then when you're done, put them in your special shrimp tank for later! yeah, right... )

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Back in the saddle!

Hello all!

The bleach / scrub down went well. All the algae I could reasonably remove is gone. The rocks are super clean again and the anubias got the right amount of exposure to bleach. (my bottle of bleach said extra strong and I killed the arachnis testing my concentrations)

I will get more of the arachnis or some wisteria to get the plant mass up significantly.

Nowhere- Im going to try to avoid needing a total restart. I will make sure to keep up with the decaying material via water change, it would be bad to have a big NH4 spike at this point.

Chaos

Edit: Oh, I got a chance while bleaching to see my anubias really closely which was nice. There were mabey 8 new leaves between the five plants and some new growth at the end of the risomes which makes me optamistic about their growth in the right conditions. I noticed a few holes in one of the leaves (this is my low K indicator bensaf?). well all should be well in the near future.


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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Well done, Chaos. Get a lot of cheap, fast-growing, nutrient-sucking plants like anacharis, hornwort, watersprite, hygrophila polysperma, wisteria, and you're good to go. With that size tank, you will probably only need to get a bunch or two of each. Get comfortable with the proper dosing routine for the tank with those plants (they're also good indicators if you're lacking one nutrient or another) and then slowly replace them with the plants you really want.

Anyways, looking forward to a G-rated picture of your tank in the near future.

P.S. Holes in anubias is most probably potassium deficiency as you said.

-P

looking forward to a G-rated picture of your tank in the near future

I'll second that

Glad to hear it went well. Get the plants, let them settle in for a week, then start your dosing. Remember, you're going to get diatoms again, but this time try to stay on top of them. You can scrub them off and pick the stuff out if you can, stay on top of it and don't let it get settled in. For the time being stay on top of ammonia levels, this is bad not only for the fish but can cause algae issues as well. WCs if necessary. Keep us posted

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Back in the saddle!

G-rated ( g for green? ) pictures you say? I suppose I can help.

Things are doing well for the blackout. Mabey the algae is ok more than I would like but the HC will live which is a priority too.

Interstingly, one of my lemons is much healthier than ever before. It is very very yellow that is.

My lemons tasted their first bloodworms under my care and they liked them (who is supprised?) Hopefully they will all color up well in the near future to super bright like the other. I didnt have the lights on long enough to really try to photograph the fish, but ill get pics of it on sunday.

As you can see the HC is looking healthier, though BGA on this piece.

Attached Image:


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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Anacharis reins supreem!!

Attached Image:


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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Good news everyone!

Time to actually figure out the ammounts involved in my new ferts regimine. Ill probably also try to find MSDSs on these. I am particularly intersted in weather or not any of these absorb water out of the air, which could cause the crystals to cake together or degrade in some way.

Can someone guide me to a site that has how much fert in spoonfuls per gallon to get a specific ppm value?

Mabey that was clear, thanks,

Chaos

Attached Image:


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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Chaos,

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/fertilator.php



My Scapes

Or if you want to put your chemistry knowledge to good use:
http://users.ev1.net/~spituch/Chemicals/chemicals.html

-P

Hey all,

Im thinking through what I want to do for dosing. I will probably go with standard solutions that allow me to dose the same volume of liquid from each. That will take some math but will make life easier for me.

More importantly, I am thinking about adding a 'ground crew.' I can easily keep up with algae on glass and stones but not as easily with the fluffy stuff on algae. Nutrients should slow down the growth, but some of it is still around (I doubt its all dead after the blackout). So I was thinking about getting some ghost shrimps. My lfs has some as feeders (I couldnt find any other species other than bamboo [filter feeders]). The info I oculd find on ghosts said they are good as far as any detritus goes and that they will eat threadlike or fluffy algaes so they may be helpfull. The LFS just relocated and the shrimp tank is a bit cloudy (white cloud not green) and I dont know if that is bad or not so I wont getting any without hearing comment on that point.

Anyway it seems like a good idea to get some maitnence animals and I think the shrimp might be ok. while the aquaruim isnt perfect for shrimp yet, at least I wont feed them to anything so I guess thats ok.

Let me know what you think.

Chaos

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- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

If you could find them, the cherry shrimp seem to be the most tolerant of water conditions and eat the largest variety of algae.



My Scapes

My lemons are having an intersting morning. Yesterday when I turned the lights on to feed them I got a little worried because one of my males had a bulge between the pectoral fins. I was worried that it was sick, some kind of infection or something but I am no longer worried.

My female was carying eggs. Apparently my mature lemons are one male and one female. They have been mating for about the last hour. I see mabey 2 surviving eggs. The juveniles are quick at picking up whatever eggs are being spawned, the adults too to some extent. They are still going through the spawing behavior at this point but I think the female is out of eggs ( I dont see her drop any ). I gather this who series of events was brought on by the bloodworms I fed them. I didnt think that was possible but now that I found [link = This paper]http://www.ctsa.org/upload/publication/CTSA_142631672855600603648.pdf[/link] it seems clear that one good protein meal might be all that is necesary as it says females can spawn every 4 days. It is intersting though that the lemons are not getting along well right now, they are more agressive then I have ever seen them, particulalry the female chases the juvaniles around.

Im going to look through my pictures and see if I have any good ones of the breeding.

As for the 2 eggs, if they are viable I dont have the means to care for them, which is unfortunate, but if this keeps up I would need quite a set up to take care of anywhere near all the fry these two could produce.

As far as the cherry shrimp go, I think they would be a good perminant edition, but I would have to mail order them or pay very high prices, 8$ per at a lfs to special order them.

Also, there was some sort of white worm that went for a quick swim while I was watching the spawning. It was mabey 5mm long an 0.5mm in diamater. it swam in a spiraling motion and settled down into the gravel before one of the fish could eat it. This is the first one of these I have seen and dont know if this is ok or bad.

Ill update ferts and stuff later today when I get a chance to do all the water chemistry tests.

Chaos

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Unfortunatly the lemons move very very quickly with the spaqning so I could not get that good a photograph.



Attached Image:


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If there were any eggs that made it this is it.



Attached Image:


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Wow Chaos! Congrats!
I noticed my barbs did the same thing after I recently fed them bloodworms, the frozen kind. I didn't get to see any eggs as they 'did it' while we were sleeping. My female barb got all fat, then the boys chased her all over the tank for hours, in the morning she was skinny again and they looked happy and satisfied. She's been holding those eggs for a very long time. All it took was higher temp, the addition of CO2 to lower pH and a good protein feed. I'm not going to try to raise any if they do it again, the rest of the fish can have some good live food for a change.

The tanks looking much better, not as 'horrifying' as it was. Ghost shrimp don't live for very long, just to warn you, they only live a few months then that's it. Mine lasted through 3 moltings. The amano, yamato and cherry's all live longer I think, I'm not sure how much longer, I was discouraged after the ghost gave up the ...ghost! But it would be a great short-term solution for cleaning up the tank. Get as many as it will hold!

"If you're afraid you'll make a mistake, you won't make anything."
-Family Circus

Hey,

Thanks, I actually didnt see her depostit any eggs, but the behavior is unmistakeable. I will get a few of the shrimp tonight, as the water quality looks good as far as NH4 NO2 go.

Chaos

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Hello,

I got me some little friends. I officially have an army of shrimps, a small army, but they eat the fluffy stuff and will help keep things clean. ( I do understand new nutrient schedule will need to be responsible for most of the algae reduciton but these guys can clean out stuff I could never reach.) also, they were almost free which is nice.



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How many ghosts shrimp did you get. Have you observed them eating the algae. I have a few of those along with amanos and cherries. Unfortunately in my tank I almost never see the cherries or the ghosts they are also hiding in the blanket of wisteria I have. The amanos seem to prefer higher ground and move about the dw and plants. The Wisteria is several layers thick, but because of the leaf structure there is enough room for small fish and shrimp to move about freely through the layers and feel protected.



My Scapes

Hey,

I got a few, 12 or so. They are hard to count, and they kept moving in the bag, but that is close.

They do eat the algae which has been so troublesome for me. I have seen them do it. They all started to fill up with green shortly after I released them.

Oh, I can see mine (well they are in the open at least) because there isnt really anywhere to hide in my tank. There is a lot more plant mass than before, but at this point most of them have been hanging out on the HC squares. Because I cant actually watch them I have been enjoying their presence alot allready because they are so active. They dont really butt heads with the lemons, but they will become defensive if one gets to close.

Chaos

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