FishProfiles.com Message Forums

I saw that auction before and was thrown by the lord of the rings reference. These plants, with 30 leave are probably much larger than the ones I was looking at, thanks,

Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Fair enough, but I thought I'd bring it up anyway - just from the standpoint of, it really does take these little plants a long time to grow.

Also, will these be the only plants in there right now? I know it's hard to hold off on planting a little bit at a time (just to have something alive, as you say) but, there may be distinct advantages to setting everything up first and planting everything all at once rather than planting as you go along, namely it helps fend off algae right from the start. A little patience may save you some headaches down the road.


and LF, yes it is a long way, but they have some plants you can't find too often in the USA... plus anubias is a tank, def. hardy enough to survive the trip...

Last edited by NowherMan6 at 10-Jan-2006 12:32

---

Back in the saddle!

I think i will probably go ahead an order the petite. If, as the tank cycles I begin to have trouble with algae or nitrates or something I can get a medium sized plant from the LFS to consume those nutrients. Hopefully I will locate some HC (Im folling every lead I can think of right now) and have that planted. Also the anubias I am getting was grown out of water so I will need to transition it, or could even keep it out of water for a little while if i need to.

Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Also the anubias I am getting was grown out of water so I will need to transition it, or could even keep it out of water for a little while if i need to.

No problem. Anubias grow pretty much the same in water as out of water. They don't really need any transition. Somebody once said they are so slow growing they don't even realise they're underwater.

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

I have almost secured my source for nana petite nad I believe I will have a source for HC in the next day or two and am very excited.

One question, Nowhereman, in another thread mentiond that cloudyness in water could be a bacterial bloom, at the beginning of the tank. Right now there is a bit of white cloudyness in my tank and I was wondering if that was what this is. If it is bacteria it makes me nervous because I havent introduced any bacteria so anything growing is probably a contaminant. I will mention though that this cloudyness was left after some silt got stirred up. I only worry because it got stirred up a little before and became totaly clear, not foggy that time.

Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Chaos. It's normal for the tank to take on a cloudiness for a few days. When did you add water and start filteration?

My Scapes

Somebody once said they are so slow growing they don't even realise they're underwater.

I believe that's from the Tropica website...


...ugh, you know you're mental when you can recognize quotes from the tropica website...


Anyway, Chaos - it may just be from the inital stirring up of silt, as you call it. The only reason I'm not sure if it's a bloom is because I've only heard of bacterial blooms occuring when there is ammonia present, during cycling. You don't have to ADD bacteria, it'll just get there on its own. It's floating around in the air, in the water. It helps to add bio-spira or whatnot when starting up a new tank because that puts a big fat colony of bacteria in the tank already, but given a source of food, these bacteria will multiply on their own regardless of how they get there.

Regarding your cloudiness, it could be a number of things - dust from the substrate, from the rocks in the tank, it could even be an algae bloom....

Any one with more experience with bacterial blooms, please chime in here - I've only cycled one tank in my life, I could be wrong about the above.

---

Back in the saddle!

Well a bacterial bloom basically develops because their is too much waste for the biofilter to handle. So if your feeding alot and add too much fish etc you might get a bloom. Did you start the tank with carbon? What's in it.
Check your nh3 numbers.

My Scapes

Well, this is the thing, I pretty much got the tank ready to go more than a week ago, then realized that I couldnt get any of the plants locally and started looking for them. As it is the tank has no biological activity I have added, no fish, plants or anything. There is DW, rocks, and substrate. I dont have a test kit yet, but I am willing to assume that the NH4 is the same as the drinking water. There is no carbon in the tank b/c i expecte to have used the biospira by now and it says not to use carbon for a while after you start up the cycle.

Like i said I have located my plants, but they wont be here for probably 7 more days at least. Should I drain the tank and let everything dry? I was hesitant to do that because I dont think I should let the gravel sit with stagnant water. Though I wouldnt mind if I had a chance to rinse the gravel again, that is if I removed it from the tank which would be messy. Physically draining the tank is easy, Im just wondering if anyone knows a reason I shouldnt, for the time untill I get the plants.

Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

No reason not to tear it down if you want, just don't leave the light running if there's nothing in there, try to keep it dark - otherwise you invite the risk of algae right off the bat, which would put you in a hole from the start.

EDIT: Actually, if everything isn't as you want it i would dare say it's better to tear it down and reorganize now before anything living goes in the tank, including bio-spira...

Last edited by NowherMan6 at 12-Jan-2006 16:25

---

Back in the saddle!

Hi all,

Little Fish- I looked and you were right about the composition on the left, I think I can fix it easy enough but we will see.

Bensaf- Ill accept no substitutes for what ever plants I decide on. I think im getting a little to ansey (sp?). Too fidgetey, I mean. Ill try to head towards a zen aquarium planning thing where I dont feel the desire to put anything I can in the tank just because it is near by.


For my education, can you guys point me to a website on amano. The one i keep seeing is a magazine and im not sure if thats the best place to see his stuff, or other aquariums. Mabey there is a site that has a bunch of good ones I can look at? that would be intersting.

Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Hello All,

Ive been reading and planning for a while and finally have my new aquarium, a Nano Cube 12 DX setup. I dont know what plants I should use and have quite a few other questions about planting in general.

My aquarium is 12 gallons and measures a little bigger than a 12" cube. It has 48 watts, 4watts/gal and flourite substrate. Puictures of how I plan to setup the hardscape are below. Also the location of filter intake (top left) and output (top right) probably need to be taken into account while choosing plants. I expect to add a diy CO2 system at some point in the near future after the plants are setup.

I think I would like the aquarium to look well planted, but cant use so many plants that the fish I get will not have much space to swim. I think having somthing like glosso as a foreground, or something else rather short, and then a few plants in the back behind the DW would work well but I dont know too much about this.

My local store has an ok selection of plants but they also seem to come with snails which concerns me. They are very small ones and there are some babys in the water (I think thats what look like big paramecium swimming around). I dont really want to have the snails and Im not sure if I should look for a different source, internet perhaps.

Also, at the moment the substrate is very dusty, or muddy. I added it to the tank carefully after rinsing it some but it still made a bit of a mess with the water. I let the silt settle and was able to clean things up a bit. Is that silt nutritionally important for the plants? I ask because everytime I go to disturb the plants to set somthing up or vacume it is going to make a rather large mess. If its not important I think I can remove most of it without much troubble.

Thanks for the help

Chaos


The tank, Nano Cube 12 DX

Front view with me modeling the wood

Side view

Other Side view

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Yes, those "nano" cubes are very nice looking tanks.

My fish question is which light set do you have. I know you have 48watts, but do you have the freshwater planted bulbs or the saltwater. Most people get this tank with the saltwater setup which means you have a dual bulb half looks white and half looks blue (actinic). The actinic won't do much for the plants, so if you have that bulb you really don't have 4wpg, if you have the freshwater bulbs (6700k) than yes you do have the full 4wpg and I would highly recommend co2 from the start or you will have algae problems with that kind of light. In fact if possible I would only run half of the lights until you get the co2 going. The ability for the plants to use waste and ferts will be limited and it will open the door for algae.

As far as the wood, that's a personal thing, but I do agree with littlefish that it's big and too close to the front. I do like working with big pieces so it can work with the right plants to support it, but is does need to be moved back from the front.



Last edited by tetratech at 30-Dec-2005 16:18

My Scapes

The "Nano" tanks usually have the heater and filter built into the back ?

Looking at the pics the light does appear very blue so they probably do have saltwater bulbs. Change them to daylights. The saltwater bulbs will just make the plants look radioactive !

See how big your hands look in that tank ? You don't want them going in there often to uproot and replant. I'd avoid almost all stem plants.
I wouldn't be keen on DIY Co2 on such a small tank, way too unstable. For what I'd do with it Co2 would be unneccessary anyway.

The wood as tetra pointed out is very thick. If you intend to use it there's really one layout that would work IMO.

Go for a mound type aquascape.

Use rocks to support the wood in whatever layout you decide. Cover some of the rocks with moss. Taiwan moss is a good option , it's smaller neater and bit slower growing then others.

Cover up that wood with Anubias Nana Pettite, you'd get away with the regular Nana but nothing bigger. Use the Anubias on the lower parts of the wood and create a mound. Some patches of moss on the upper portions.
Alternately use Narrow leaf fern or Wendelov Java Fern to crate the mound (avoid other ferns, they're too big) and fill in gaps in the rocks or between wood and rock with the Anubias Petite. You can add a Crypt at the back or corners.

Glosso will be a bit of work, stuff grows real quick and when it reaches critical mass needs to be up rooted and replanted. Something like Cryptocorene Parva would work well.Or you can just leave the foreground empty or fill with small river rocks, this will complement the rock/wood/Anubias/Fern mound nicely.

Use Excel. It's cost effective on a small tank, one bottle would last a good few months. It'll help keep algae away from the slow growing plants. Work out a good fert routine.

This would be a very attractive and almost zero maintenance tank. You'd hardly ever have to put those huge hands in there.

For fish , keep to really small ones. A school of Microrasboras would work well.
Alternately a group of Female Bettas, or Sparkling Gouramies. These are slow moving "prowling" fish, they'd love hunting around the mound and wood/rocks. A few nice shrimp like cherries would add interest.

Forgot to mention the snails. Don't worry about them. They are hard to avoid anyway. As long as you don't overfeed and keep the tank clean they'll go pretty quickly anyway. Female Bettas will snack on them especially the small young ones.

Last edited by bensaf at 30-Dec-2005 21:59

Last edited by bensaf at 30-Dec-2005 22:03

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

Yes, Bensaf you are right about he light. It's obviously blue.

I think that mound arrangement is a nice idea, but with that plant selection isn't he better off with just 2wpg.

BTW - What's the deal with the temp probe. Did that come with the tank. I never understood all those wires just to track temp.



My Scapes

The fluorite is an excellent substrate but it is difficult to rinse and therefore you will generally have quite a bit of suspended particles in the water.

My recommendation for working with this substrate is to place it in the aquarium with just enough water to make it moist. Position your hardscape, rocks and wood. Then plant the aquarium starting with the low growing plants to the background plants.

Slowly and carefully fill the aquarium. If you think it is filling too slowly then slow down even more. Use a shallow bowl or plate to disperse the water onto the substrate. Once the water has reached a depth of 4 or 5 inches, you can increase the flow ever so slightly as you are trying not to stir up the substrate.

Fuorite becomes much more workable after a period of time in the aquarium, it's just a pain when you want to really make some progress.

__________
"To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research."
researched from Steven Wright

Hello all

Little fish-

Ive seen your critcism of 'nano' in another thread so I should say 'nano cube 12 dx' is the trade marked name of this aquarium.

The aquarium has a false back where the filtration is and there is space for the heater to be hidden back there. I was doing an equipment check at that point to make sure it worked.

You have a rather good eye looking at the background. It is an intersting illusion you saw. I had just filled the tank for the first time and there were lots of bubbles sticking to the sides, these create the texture you see in the background. The lines which made it look like brick are the fill lines at the end of a bucket of water. The actual background is just black plastic of the false back.

To be honest, while I knew the measurements of the wood it looked rather skinnier in the ebay auction picture. I was supprised by it but am going to try to work with it anyway, though it will probably create a bit of a chalenge. I am not planning on relying on magic to hold up the wood. I got some slate and stainless steel screws to hold the wood at whaterver angle I decide.

Tetratech- You are absolutly right about the light. I thought the 50/50 bulbs were an upgrade and assumed I would be getting freshwater ones. I will get that fixed in the next week or so.

Bensaf- I think I am following that you mean about the mound but I am not compleetly sure. is it something like these but focused around the wood?

http://www.aquabotanic.com/images/birgitglosso.JPG

http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi?&Scale=514&op=showcase&category=0&vol=0&id=36

If I follow you the mound will make the wood the centerpiece and the plants more like a decoration, this makes sense because of the size of the wood. Trying to minimise the wood would probably be futile. Surrounding the wood with a low lying grass like plant like the one in the very front of this http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi?&Scale=514&op=showcase&category=0&vol=0&id=18 may be good. Let me know If i understand the idea correctly.

Im going to play around with the wood layout and try to decide about where it should go, particularly the verticle piece.

At the moment for fish I keep thinking about lemon tetras or von rios. these are about the smallest tetras I can find around here (not counting neons which I think might be upset by the bright light)

Bob- Im glad Im not the only person who has had trouble with this substrate. I got the water clear again with a bit of filtering and will be carefull with the flourite in the future.

Thanks all

Chaos


__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Chaos

I can already see that we will have lots of fun with you in our planted group.

Reasons:

- You are funny and witty
- You do your homework
- You are ambitious (as can be seen by the tanks you selected as possible models)

You said you read the other thread where I criticize “Nano”, don’t take that as belittling to your tasks at hand, that is not my intention. I just have a different vision of what small means as I am trying hard to someday soon get a “true” Nano with maybe 3G up and running.

Have a Happy New Year, and I hope we will have lots of fun and excitement next year when we (hopefully) see your tank being set up and blossom.

Ingo

---

Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

All hail Chaos Maximus !!!

You're not quite getting me on the mound idea. The samples you posted are examples of a style known as "iwagumi", surprisingly difficult to pull off.

The design I'm thinking of is like the one below, which is a tank by Jeff Senske, one of my favorite scapers.

The advantage is it's esay to do and more importantly maintain. It's the type of tank that stays looking good for years. I think it's ideal for the tank size/shape you have and is really the only way to ustilise that thick wood effectively.

You can see the rocks wood and plants are piled up in the center creating a mound. Note the foreground is not planted to cut down on maintenance. The Anubias hide the wood well with just enough showing to create a natural effect. Very very little work to keep the shape.

You wouldn't need the full amount of light you have but it won't harm either. I'm assuming it's something like 2 X 24watt bulbs which is not a huge amount of light. The excel would help avoid a lot of algae issues especially with plants like Anubias.But if you went with mainly Anubias moses I'd err on the side of caution and just use half the light.
Again note the amount of lights on the tank below.There's 3 x 20 watt bulbs. Not sure of the tank size , anyone take a guess ???
bensaf attached this image:


Last edited by bensaf at 31-Dec-2005 23:38[/font]

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

That looks like a 40g oceanic cube, so not alot of light at all. Also it's a deep tank so the foreground would probably be a major headache from a maint. and growing prospective.

What type of hairgrass is that in the back that would grow in that light?








My Scapes

I guess the plant is Eleocharis acicularis. Although it looks like it grows new leaves out of the base in the Amano tanks I think to remember that Bensaf mentioned that they acrually have new shoots on various heights of the original plant.

Ingo

---

Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

All hail me indeed

Bensaf, i really think Ive got the idea now and Have attached a HD rendering of what I think this would look like in my tank.

http://picshosted.com/v/5794/untitled.bmp

This seems like a good to deal with the wood. A big question for me is while you said this will be easy to maintain will this be easy to move? I will be moving the aquarium from here (was dc) to boston, an 8hr drive in septemeber. This is a ways away but I feel I should consider this.

If you still think I should go for the mound, given the move, I have some questions.

First, for the structure, it will be composed of just rocks and wood? or will there be peat as well. Either way I will be doing rock collecting near my house most likley (depeding on how the creek water looks). If there is no peat are all the plants attached to the rocks ones that survive on liquid ferts alone?

For lighting, should I keep the 50/50s. Im sure I can kind of trade em in with the aquarium company but I shouldnt wait long to do that.

If the foregound was planted with a short grass of some form would that in fact be more maitnece? If there was grass then there would be no need to vacume that gravel so that would be less matinence? Just wondering.

Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

I love your drawing

A square cinder block with fins sticking out, plus little plugs that look like my hair in front of it, lovely

Traveling is never easy, I am most certain it will get messy no matter what you do.

Many plants survive on liquid ferts alone, only a few species require explicit fertilization through the substrate. These usually have an elaborate root system anyway and that wouldn’t be feasible for your tank in the first place, IMHO. In the worse case you would be able to add root tabs (or spikes) in the substrate for the plant that needs it.

I would not keep the 50/50 as the actinic is for sure not doing you any good and actually might (not sure) help the algae. A good K range to get would be 6,700K to 8,000K, 5,000K and 10,000K are ok as well.

Well, foreground or not, maintenance would have to be done. No foreground = gravel vacuuming, foreground means trimming and vacuuming the yuckies out of the plants. To sum it up, plain gravel would be less maintenance.

Ingo

---

Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

Yeah, well I assume you actually understood the drawing. Ill assume that I do need a few rocks and will go looking tomarrow.

I guess ill deal with weather or not to plant the front in a while and try to manage the mound thing first.

Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

A big question for me is while you said this will be easy to maintain will this be easy to move?

It doesn't get any easier ! Just pull out the rocks and wood. No plants to uproot. Most will be attached to the wood rocks very strongly by that stage. There's no need to silicone the rocks and wood together. Just pile them on top of one another in a fairly stable manner.

First, for the structure, it will be composed of just rocks and wood? or will there be peat as well.

There's no need to use peat anywhere in the tank. All plants will draw nutrients from the water column through their leaves , they only use their roots if the water is too lean in nutrients. Anubias,Ferns and Mosses are specifically build to draw nutrients from the water. The roots are more for anchoring them to the woods and rock.

Either way I will be doing rock collecting near my house most likley (depeding on how the creek water looks).

Just make sure they are the same color/type. Don't worry about the atwer , you can wash/boil/bake the rocks to get rid of any nasties.

If there is no peat are all the plants attached to the rocks ones that survive on liquid ferts alone?

Ok time for your first fertilizing lesson ALL plants will do very well by just ferilizing the water.No need for fancy substrates or peat. In fact unless you really know what you are doing avoid Peat like the plague.
BUT do not confuse fertilizing the water with just using a liquid fert. A typical liquid fert only provides micronutrients. These are a wide range of nutrients that the plants require small quantites of , hence the micro. You will also need to add macronutrients. These are the ones that the plant needs in abundance and must be present all the time - Nitrate, Phosphate, Potassium,Calcium. We also add these to the water, either in powder form or in liquid form if you use the Seachem range. How much or how often is added is dependent on a number of factors,light/fishload/plant mass - mainly is carbon added and if so, how. We'll get to that later. For this tank I would definately reccomend the Excel approach. Use Co2 later when you've becaome a sick sick junkie like the rest of us and have got some experience under yopur belt and want to build that huge planted tank of your dreams. You will succumb, it's a when not an if

For lighting, should I keep the 50/50s.
Get rid of them. They will make the tank look like complete and utter crap ! We are not building a boring mass of grey rock like the salty folks Can you get a K reading from the bulbs. If one of the bulbs is 10K that would be usable, it has a nice white light, anything above that will be too blue and will wash out the colors of your fish and plants.

If the foregound was planted with a short grass of some form would that in fact be more maitnece? If there was grass then there would be no need to vacume that gravel so that would be less matinence? Just wondering.

Yes a foreground grass would be more maintenance. BTW you'll quickly find that vacumning a will be the least of your work worries in a plants tank ! The joy of a planted tank is it's dynamic, it's always growing therfore it's constantly changing. The grassy plants while way less work then fast growing stem plants still require maintenance. They spead throughout the tank by producing new plants on runners, eventually you'll have too many and need to tidy them up and remove some. Noramally this not too much work, it's just in such a small tank it'll happen quicker and you don't have much room for your hands to do the delicate work required. I'd aim for something that never needs your hand to go in. But it's your call.

BTW, that's about the worst rendering of tank design on MS Paint I have ever seen but I catch your drift.

Tetra , yeah Ingo's right about the plant. Unlike the Dwarf Hairgrass it produces runners very high up the leaf. Some people like this , others hate it and trim the runners off immediately. Maybe that's what Amano does. Or as it's him, he's probably using a completely different plant then we think !!! The plant he uses looks very much like a plant I picked up in Singapore and love - Vallisnera Nana. Very very thin, almost hairgrass thin, but much less "stiff" looking then hairgrass, more flowy and a richer color. I have some pics of mine if anyones interested , you can compare.

Last edited by bensaf at 01-Jan-2006 21:12

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

Hey,

Things are making sense. I feel like I can move forward a bit at least.

For the creek water I am not worried about biological things, Its the chemical ones that concern me. There is sometimes an oily look to the water. I will have to decide if I think i can remove any chems.

Ill post a picture of a dry run of the mound asap.

Thanks for the advice. Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Hello all,

Ive got both the rocks and wood in my tank. Below is a photo of the dry run of the formation. The rocks and wood are in the tank, but because of the gravel the water is still a bit too cloudy to allow a picture to be taken. The mound looks moderatly big in the tank but there is some foreground left which is good.

http://picshosted.com/v/6705/DSCF00221.JPG

Also, I have found a version of annubis which looks ideal for my tank:

http://www.tropica.com/productcard_1.asp?id=101H

Possibly also something like this:

http://www.tropica.com/productcard_1.asp?id=002C

or for the foreground (which i know some are recomending against, but im thinking about it)

http://www.tropica.com/productcard_1.asp?id=067B

Also, java moss or some other moss was mentioned. Any suggestions are welcome, particularly for small plants or somthing in the background, though I am fine sticking with the black background at the moment.

I am wondering where I should expect I can find these specific plants, in particular, the tiny anubis plant. [if a web site they need to ship to washington dc] Also, If these are going to take a while to arrive should I get some fish in the tank. I dont know if it is a bad idea to leave the tank without any biological activity that I want (i.e. will anything bad accumulate if I wait much longer to introduce fish?) I have biospira so I think I should be able to introduce two lemons without any problems.

Input on any of this would be helpful, thanks all,

Chaos

Last edited by chaosmaximus at 05-Jan-2006 11:58

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

For the grass, I would be looking for somthing much shorter than the one above, 5cm tops

Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Almost any fish store should carry anubias nana, I found it out here in the middle of nowhere, in the north, you get where I'm coming from? Anyway, I would stick with the mound and not try the grassy foreground as it looks much cleaner without. I love that tank Bensaf showed. The rock arrangement looks great. That liverwort and the nana would look great on it. There are two java ferns that would also fit, the regular and the 'windelov' variety. I love that plant! And mosses are great for coverage as well. Good luck and keep the pics coming, I'm looking forward to seeing this nano cube emerge.

"If you're afraid you'll make a mistake, you won't make anything."
-Family Circus

Maximus,
Ya know what I think you did I good job with the hardscape. It's not always easy to arrange the wood and rock together. Once the green grows in it should look very nice.

All those anubias are good. I'm not familiar with Monosolenium tenerum, but Bensaf might be. There are alot of mosses you could use on the mound including xmas, java, taiwan,etc. Here's a link to a good moss website.

http://www.aquamoss.net/

My Scapes

Almost any fish store should carry anubias nana

True, BUT the Nana would just be a tad too big IMO, the Anubias Petite would be a much better choice.

The Monosellium (Pellia) is a nice choice too. Treat it preety much like Moss, tied it down and it will attach to rocks or wood, easy but slow growing.

Any type of moss will do but my own preference would be Taiwain, it's just a bit prettier, smaller and slower growing. Less maintanence, looks good longer.

The sword you linked too would be too big for the foregound. Tenellus or Dwarf Sag would be better choices.

Another forground option would be Riccia. Tie to some flat rocks or piece of slate with hair net. A few of these will give a thick grassy appearance. For maintaining just pull out the rocks give the Riccia a "haircut" plop back in.

All these plants are easy enough to find but really buying on-line would be your only option, they will not be available in your average LFS.

Those are nice rocks and you've done a real good job on the arrangement. I think this tank could be a keeper.

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

Oh good, I was really worried I would have to throw this tank back.

I was looking at the petite version of the anubias and think I pointed at that link.

As for the liverwort, it seems like that is more solid a plant than the java moss which allways looks kind of fluffy and structureless. The dust from my substrate gave me a very good look at the currents in the tank and I think, even tied down, the moss might not stick well. Ill look at the website dedicated to moss though just to be sure.

Ill post pics tomorrow of the hard scape in the tank which luckily doesnt look oppresivly full.

Also, and this one is important, Practically speeking If i am going with the petit and the liverwort how many should I purchase, any suggestions on the placement pattern or plant ratios would be helpfull. Im going to keep that cube bensaf attached as a guide unless someone has suggestions.

Chaos,

Any votes on adding fish now or in aprox a week when I should be able to have plants?

Last edited by chaosmaximus at 06-Jan-2006 02:55

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

Chaos,

I would say add the fish after the plants. Reasons:

1) Why stress new fish (less than a week in your tank) by making an additional major mess when adding the plants to their tank?

2) Less chance of a mini cycle.

3) After all plants are in you might change your mind on what kind of fish might look good in the tank.

I completely understand the urge to have something moving in there, but I would suggest to resists and wait just that one more week. What is one week anyway in the live span of a tank

Ingo

---

Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

True, BUT the Nana would just be a tad too big IMO, the Anubias Petite would be a much better choice.

hey bensaf, how much does a. b. v. nana petite cost where you live? You suggest it so often and you obviously think highly of it, but here in the States in most of the online places I've seen it's expremely expensive for such a small slow growing plant. A little quarter to half dollar sized bit of it can cost 8-10 dollars - and it's not as if you can bu a little and grow it out in areasonable amount of time! Just curious how much it goes for by you.

Also, Chaos, nice job on preparing your tank. Small tanks seem like a lot of fun to set-up, several of us are knawing at the bit waiting to work on our own... well, one of us is, anyway...

But i agree with LFs suggestion #3 - really wait until the tank is set up and grows in a bit before adding fish, it can save you a lot of trouble, and you very well might change your mind as to what you want in there after seeing the tank actually set up

---

Back in the saddle!

The wet version:

http://picshosted.com/v/7010/DSCF0044.JPG

I suppose I will show resolve and wait on the fish. The company I bought the tank from is going to trade me the 50/50s for the 6500k bulbs. I only need to pay shipping which is great.

Ill try to find a plant store that has the species we were talking about but I did see hight prices one the liverwort I think, so I will have to decide on what Im willing to pay.

Chaos

__________________________________
- - - Humorous Bit of Wisdom - - -

I like it! It will look really good with the nana petite and moss growing on it!
Get lots of moss and the anubias, enough to cover most of the mound. I'd also try not to have more than three species of plants, it will add to the drama of the mound.

I see salt there beside the tank, you may want to hold up on that and not use it. Some have said that the salt is not good for the plants, so far I have had no problems with it but just warning you. In my case the salt was there before the plants in the 25g, but the plants went in the 10g and I have not added as much salt to it. In fact I no longer add salt to the tank and my fish seem to be fine. Keep it handy though it definitely has it's uses.

"If you're afraid you'll make a mistake, you won't make anything."
-Family Circus

Chaos,

I Like the way you have that big rock in the front, it gives you a good base to plant groundcover in front of and still see some rock, my only critism is that it looks like the driftwood on the left is touching or just about touching the glass. If so, that would not be a good look it will make the tank look much smaller and unnatural. It looks like your wet mound is slightly more open than your dry mound pic was.

My Scapes

Chaos,

I know it is very hard to make a judgment of how something will look when planted while there are no plants there yet. But I will try anyway .

I think that the center area is expanding too far to the sides, in particular to the left (similar to what tetratech said). I try to imagine a layer of about 2 inches of plants all around the rocks and I think it will look too strong and voluminous. Like having the large open foreground and then some big chunk of something blocking almost the entire tank width. This, I think, will make the tank look much smaller then providing open spaces left and right where the observer can lurk around the mound and hash some of the depth. Do you know what I mean?

But, as said in the first sentence, it is hard to imagine how it will be once plants are actually in there .

Ingo

---

Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club

hey bensaf, how much does a. b. v. nana petite cost where you live? ,

Ok I have to admit it's pretty cheap here, $5 will get you a good clump of about 5" by 5"

You suggest it so often and you obviously think highly of it

I do. For a reason. It's a very unique plant in terms of size, looks and ease of use. In some applications, like nano tanks, there's simply nothing else that can do the same job.
It shares all the advantages of Anubias but it's size makes it even more versatile.
Anubias are expensive, but they are a very worthwhile investment IMO. There's no reason they shouldn't last a lifetime. They are easy and undemanding to grow and require almost no maintenance. They ARE a plastic plant that grows.
The fact that they can be tied to rocks, wood or simply planted and kept shaded by other plants gives them a versatility of use that no other plant can offer.
As I say the small size of petite just makes it more attractive and versatile in my book.

If you want to be serious about a 'scape you need the best quality stock you can afford. This is especially true for plants. Try to get the best most attractive plants you can.

The pros not only set up a tank with a layout in mind but they will have very very specific plants in mind and won't start until they have those plants in their hands. Not a luxury most of us can afford but we should try our best nonetheless.
If you want something tall to fill the back most will settle on one of the common Vals because they are easy to find. But there are many other plants that will do the same job much better and much more attractively, the good guys will make the effort to seek out these plants. Their tanks are always going to be better because of it.

Another plant I keep harping on about is Narrow Leaf Fern. For the same reasons. It's one hundred times better and easier to use in a scape then regular Java Fern. I know it's not as easy to find but making the effort will be rewarding.

Blyxa Japonica is the same, as I'm sure tetra will testify. I bet he's glad he made the effort to get that plant rather then "settle" on something else.

Another plant I'm really getting to like is Blyxa Aubertii. I'll be pushing that one next. Don't know why you'd let a val or sag within a 100 feet of your tank if this plant is available. At first glance it's just like a val but it maxes out at about 18", doesn't have the runner chaos of vals, much prettier more delicate leaves then vals, and will easily take on a deep red color.Just as easy to grow. So does the same job as the Vals but a handful of added advantages. So well worth the extra effort to seek it out.

so I will have to decide on what Im willing to pay.

See all of above.

You need a lot of Anubias and Moss/Pellia. They are slow growing so you need to start with a lot.


Last edited by bensaf at 06-Jan-2006 20:38

Last edited by bensaf at 06-Jan-2006 20:42

---

Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.

Chaos,

I will give you the link if you promise not to give up on your new tank

His tanks can be very intimidating at first and can make one feel a total loser

[link=Here]http://www.adaeuro.com/gallery.asp" style="COLOR: #ff6633[/link] it is

Ingo

---

Proud Member of the New Jersey Aquatic Gardeners Club