FishProfiles.com Message Forums

just wandering at petco and found some java moss for 2.49, so i bought 2 good size bundles. yeah a lot of them were a little yellow and brown, but most still look liveable. so i broke them into 7-8 smaller bundles and anchored them to my drift wood. now how long is it going to take before i can remove the lead?

Well I tried to get Java moss to attach to DW and rocks on several occasion, and It just would not attach. Only one or two strands have ever attached for me and I had it tied on for almost a year at one point. Good luck.

mts.gif" border="0"> I vote do you?
My Tanks at Photobucket

when i first got it, the bottom portion (lfs burried in gravel) were all attached to pretty large size pebbles and wouldnt come off... i can only hope... lol

I do that with Java ferns, and Anubias. Makes it real easy to adjust where they are if they bring their own anchors.

mts.gif" border="0"> I vote do you?
My Tanks at Photobucket

ive had several java ferns and it indeed is a hassle to get it to attach to something. but at my LFS he sells them already attached to the wood so you buy a big ole hunk for 20 bucks..its privately owned buy this one guy tho and never seen it like that at chain stores...good luck

i like feesh

Java moss is growing wild in my Betta tank. It attached its self to a well weathered piece of DW I have never tried to attach it to any thing at all except the back glass and it never did after at least two years of trying.

I think it prefers a well matured piece of DW so that it can attach its self. The best way is to just tie it on using 15lb nylon fishing line it will cover it very quickly and pieces just break of and float around the tank until it can find a host to attach its self.

I also use Seachem liquid ferts this might also help.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info

Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

The amount of light, fertilizer, and CO2 will play a role in the time it takes to take off. In a tank with a lot of light, good supply of fertilizer and CO2 java moss will take off rather quickly.

Could you give us some more information about your tank?

55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric

drift wood been in the tank for over 7-8 years now so i think its mature enough... or i hope

lighting is 3wpg @ 5500k for 10.5 hrs
CO2 injected at roughly 16ppm
no liquid fertilizer at the moment but gravel is onyx which has nothing to do with the moss since moss are on he DW

Hi,
Green, I suspect your light may be the problem.
If I were you, I would toss that yellowish looking
5500K light in favor of something in the 6700-8800K
range. I think it's simply too "dim" for the moss
to really thrive.
BTW, 10 hours is a good light cycle.

Frank

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

i had 6700k bulbs before, and now i am looking at both types, they look identical as far as i can tell. but compared with the 4000k or lower ones i can definitely see the yellowish tint in them. 5500k is white, and i researched it a little online, people said that 5500k is fine, but yes most people go with 6700+ bulbs. i hope this wont be a problem at all. very little bits of the moss are pearling right now, i am going to add a bit of liquid fert see if that helps too.

ps.. actually now i am thinking about it... i have a mix of 6700k and 5500k bulbs in there. about half and half actually now i remembered, though the 6700 bulbs need to go in a couple months.

Being you are running 3WPG and have CO2 the factor you are missing is the fertilizers. The more light you have, the more need for a CO2 supply you have, the more need for fertilizers.


Below are a few different ways to go about adding fertilizer to your tank.
http://www.barrreport.com/estimative-index/62-estimative-index-dosing-no-need-test-kits.html
http://www.barrreport.com/estimative-index/2819-ei-light-those-less-techy-folks.html
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/pps-analysis-feedback/39491-newbie-guide-pps-pro.html

I have never tried using the last one but I think many people have. It does have some interested stuff about lighting schedules in it though that I liked.

I basicly use this for my 55G from the EI side of things.

40-60 Gallon Aquariums
+/- 1/2 tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- 1/8 tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- 3/4 tsp GH booster once a week(water change only)
+/- 1/8 (10ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change

55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric

my java moss took about a two months to set in a thrive... i just tossed it into the tank and it attached it self to the large grained substarte and grew rampant... i have since divided it and attached it to other rocks and such with cotton sewing thread... the thread will disolve eventually, but the java moss SHOULD attach itself before the thread is gone... also toss any yellow or brown peices as it will foul the water.

dosing regular ferts and or having roots tabs halp increase the ability for any plant matter to attach itself and grow. java moss will brown in very high light conditions so attach it in a more shaded area, eventually it will grow towards the light and browned or too long peices can be pruned like a standard gardener would... my java mos grows in heaps, but many have good luck with it growing rather controlled...

also keep up on pruning and you will have less floating peices...

GOOD LUCK! java moss is such a good addition to any tank!!! adds color and protection for smaller fish and fry!

\\\\\\\"an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of the cure\\\\\\\"

Hi Wings,
I would argue that the last link has some misleading
information in it.

First, the CO2 saturation level of 15 is moderate, but
not what is normally found in nature. The ambient CO2
saturation is normally 5mg/l +/- "a tad."
Many are using 30mg/l as their goal and normal saturation
level. The only time one has to worry about the fish, is
if the owner has exceeded or pressed the bio-load for that
tank. If one is concerned about the higher values of
saturation, come down and look at the tank just before the
lights come back on after being off all night long. IF
the fish are gasping at the surface for air, then you have
exceeded the limit and should back down your bps a bit.
If that is the case, then of course immediate action is
required and the owner should add an operating air-stone
to the tank set at a high rate of bubbling.

Second, while one bubble per second (bps) is a good
place for a new person to set their rate of injection, it
is by no means THE place to leave it. That rate, depending
upon the pH, and KH of the tank can either have a huge
effect (low KH) or next to no effect (high KH). The only
real way to measure the saturation short of a lab, is to
measure the pH and know your KH and plot the two values
on a chart such as this:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm
If you use this chart, or any of the dozens of others that
are on the Internet or published elsewhere, and keep your
saturation levels in the "green" area, you will
be perfectly safe and are furnishing the optimum CO2
for the plants.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Frank I am with you on both accounts. I have not tested my CO2 in a very long time. Mainly because my plants are growing fine and my fish are not getting, say light headed. Before I moved I had my CO2 cranked up to about 80 pmm. The fish and shrimp were fine.

I put that link up because it is a little different view on dosing and also I liked the lighting durations.

55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric

i liked everything you guys said... except that "java moss will brown in very high light" is 3wpg considered VERY high light? well what i am worrying about is that will they brown? lol

i just added in the seachem flourish liquid fert... lets wait n see

it should do ok.. i was referring to like 3.5+wpg...

i heard this from a member a while back who had trouble keeping java moss... most people have no problem with it...


\\\\\\\"an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of the cure\\\\\\\"

My noon burst lighting on the 55G is just over 4WPG. The moss is growing just fine, nice and green with no browning. I could see if you had hight light and the moss grew really fast and one did not thin it. You would probable get some browning and die off underneath. Moss just like other plants needs some trimming from time to time.

55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric

greeb, the main thing is the moss needs to acclimate to its new enviroment... once acclimated it will use its storede and newly produced energy to work on propagation and growing...

so just be patient and your moss will be beautiful in no time!

\\\\\\\"an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of the cure\\\\\\\"