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This will be my first real tank. I had a few when I was younger and knew nothing about tanks, so they didnt turn out to well. I have now done a good bit of research and think im ready to start it up. Here is what I am thinking of.

I have a 29 Gallon tank.
2 20 watt lights
1 inch of 1/16in Gravel
1 1/2 inch of laterite/peat mix.
DIY CO2 system

Plants
dwarf anubias and some regular ones
and some crypts

Fish
1 school of tiger barbs
Um not sure what else but some bottom feeders for sure.

What you think? Am I missing something? Also would like a few other plants that could go well in there with my lighting. Like coverish low growing types, small leaves.

Thanks

Hi,
In looking at your list I think you might be mixing
a bit of apples and oranges here.

Your list shows 2, 20 watt lights on a 29G tank.
That equals 1.4 watts of light per gallon. 1-1.5 wpg
is considered low light and I'd recommend that you
stick with strictly low light plants such as crypts
and Anubis. You could grow some of the "medium" light
plants but success would be a hit and miss situation.

Your list shows that you are considering a "layered"
substrate consisting of laterite and peat mix. I'm not
too sure why you are mixing the clay and the peat. Peat
is generally used for spawning purposes, or to lower the
pH of the tank. Unless there is some circulation through
the substrate, I doubt that you will have much lowering
of the pH by the peat. You might consider just a 1 to
1.5 inch layer of laterite, and cap that with a 1 inch
layer of gravel. To help keep the pH down into the upper
6's and low 7's you might, instead, keep the peat moss in
a compartment of the filter with filtered water flowing
through it and back into the tank.
Include also in the tank some MTS snails to help keep
the substrate aerated.
Keep in mind that with a capped substrate, every time
you uproot a plant or vacuum the gravel too actively,
you run the risk of pulling the clay particles through
the cap layer into the circulating water and making it
cloudy. That cloudy water will need a Diatom filter
to remove the clay particles and make the water crystal
clear again.

Your list shows that you are going to be running a DIY CO2
system. I'm not too sure why. The plants that you mention
(crypts & Anubis) are not only low light plants, they are
also considered "slow growers." About all you would need
to do with the tank is keep the filter return below the
water's surface so as not to rile it. Breaking the surface
with the filter return or an air stone, breaks the surface
tension and allows accumulated CO2 to escape to the
atmosphere. By maintaining the integrity of the surface,
you allow the CO2 concentration to build up above the
normal 5 milligrams per liter. It's only when you have
light that is around 3+ wpg, or 2 wpg with fast growing
plants (most stem plants) that the CO2 is necessary and
will produce a visible difference, in a short time.

I don't normally comment on a person's choice of fish
as that is up to the individual.
http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/detail.aspx?aid=9663&cid=53&search=

Generally speaking, the foreground or "lawn" type plants
such as Glosso, require extremely bright light in the
3+ wpg range. You might be able to duplicate the "look"
with shorter varieties of the crypts instead.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Again I am backing every word Frank has told you.
Without conflicting what frank has stated but I can see one major concern and that is your research it seems all over the place, lights, plants and substrate. I strongly suggest you do a lot of rethinking and more related research. I also dont comment on fish unless I see any mistakes.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW

If you are only going to have anubias and crypts, you won't need CO2 or high lighting, as these plants don't grow fast enough to make use of either. However, if you ever want plants with higher light requirements, it's best to start with what you'll need later because even the smaller light fixtures can be pretty pricey. You'll feel like you wasted your money if you have to replace yours later.

Another plant that would work with the low lighting would be the many varieties (normal, windelov, narrow leaf...) of java fern. "Coverish low growing types" pretty much exclusively require very high light (and CO2), but the foreground could be nice with smaller anubias or crypts.

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I have decided to go with 60 watts of lights, and a laterite bottome layer with gravel top. As per your guys suggestion going to skip the CO2. Also going to put some hairgrass in there as well.

I have some driftwood and rocks to tie my anubias to, so I think everthing should be good. Any other things I missed or am messing up?

My 5ft tank is full of Anubias and I have found over the years that they grow a lot better on old DW. Yet I do have a large clump of A Nana growing on several small rocks in the Cardinal Shrimp tank.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
I VOTE DO YOU if not WHY NOT?
VOTE NOW VOTE NOW