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Hello Everyone!
Its been awhile since ive posted anything, i dont know if thats a good thing or a bad thing...So I am seaking help. Over the past few months my fish have been dropping off drastically. I have a 110gal tank, probibly at the time 40-50 fish. Nothing specail just platties and tetras etc. Ive been dosing dry ferts for my plants as well as running the "hi tech" setup of 3.6wpg, co2 and all that. I think i have a high phosphate level. On the dr.wellfish phosphate test kit (at least i think its that brand) my level of phosphate is through the roof, way darker then the level on the test kit. I know planted aquariums are suppose to have some, but how much? I think ive been over doing it with my additives to the tank. It might be a combination of over feeding (the wife's fault) and too much plant matter that is laying around.
With that being said, i do once a week 15-30% waterchange. Ive had some issues where my biological field gets screwed up and now my tank is cycling far worse then it should be.

so my dosage for phosphate is 1/2 tablespoon every other day. I dose Potassium sulphate 1/2 table spoon every other day, same with KNO3, and trace elements. I buy my dry ferts at my locl hydroponics store. Is there a difference is strength to these chemicals or is it the same across the board?

My issue is this to recap: Every time i do a water change my water is cloudy for a couple days, the fish are all at the top gasping for air (so it seems) I thought it was a phosphate issue, i am not too sure if it is, my ammonia gets thrown off a bit, which i believe is the cause of the cloudy water. My Phosphate is off the chart, which leaves me to believe that i have too much.

Any input guys would be really appreciated. I am at a loss for what is happening. I am getting tired of having to scoup up dead fish after each water change.

here is my tank specs again

110gal
3.6 watts / gal
ehiem 2028 pro 2 filter
co2 injection
plants are low to medium light. amazon swords and a few hygros and some others.
ferts:

1/2 tbsp of phosphate every other day
1/2 tbsp of KNO3 every other day
1/2 tbsp of Mono Potassium Sulphate every other
1tsp of trace elements evey other day, and a day rest
on occasion epsim salt
I use water conditioner every waterchange
and Biological additives for the tank.

As far as your ferts go, I think you are adding way too much of everything, your target should be 1-3 ppm PO4, 10-20ppm of NO3, and enough K to make the plants look good. The ferts you buy at the store will have the same concentration of nutrients as any other bought as dry ferts. Liquid ferts will vary.

You are adding 12 ppm PO4 every other day. If you did the EI water changes 50% every week you'd still end up with approximately 36-72 ppm or so in your tank during the week. I'd recommend maybe adding .25 - .5 teaspoons of KH2PO4 per WEEK. This equates to 2-4ppm of PO4 during the week.

For KNO3 I'd add about 3-4 teaspoons per WEEK. The same or less KSO4 can be used as the KNO3. That will give you between 10-20 ppm during the week. Again, that was all for doing 50% water changes a week. Add less if you continue to do smaller.

You are also running a bit low with only 1ppm of micros 3x a week. I'd slowly increase that to at least 5ml 3x a week.

As for the water change issues, it sounds like there is something wrong with your tap water. I'd run the gamut of tests on it. pH, ammonia, nitrIte, nitrAte, and PO4. I'd also assume ammonia if your tank clouds up.

Also it could be that maybe you do a little too much all at once, I try to alternate filter cleanings and water changes. Always make sure that some of the bio media is left untouched in the cannister.

---

Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Hey Matty!
Thanks for posting your comments on it. I usually alternate when i do my water changes to when i clean the filter pads. I have gone that route before and have had some floaters... Ill also look at the tests again for the tap water. Ill post them in a few. Also ill cut back on the ferts as you recommended... you know its funny i have an abundance of ferts but little algae.. Thanks again for your input. I didnt mention it before but good job on your frog setup looks awesome.

I did a overhaul a few weeks ago too here is before and after..

Before:

Attached Image:

after:

Attached Image:

Sorry about the smaller pic of the different views...anyhow here are my levels

no2 =.3ppm
no3 = 10ppm
ph = 6.8ppm
phosphate = 10ppm
ammonia = 0
Kh = 4dkh
Gh= 13dgh
co2 = approx 20ppm
Fe = .25

So from what i gather Matty, Me adding the amount of Phosphate to the tank that i am, i enessance poisioning the fish? The cloudy water only stays for a bout 2 days.. I will cut way back on the phosphate and see how my fish are doing.

Attached Image:

Hi,
It also looks like you redid the entire left half of the
tank, stirring up the gravel and what not.

With nitrite showing, your tank is mini cycling as well
A fully cycled tank should have zero ammonia and zero
nitrite. If you have any, then the overhaul was too large
at one time and the tank is recycling.

Where did you put those large swords that were on the left?
Or is that them moved to the back and the depth perception
is what I'm seeing?

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Hey Frank! They were massive swards and i ended up selling them to the local fish store. Made some good money on them too! one of the swards had runners on them so thats what i plante on the left side of the tank. Thats not all gravel on the left hand side there is stuf there to take up some space. Yeah i know my tank is cycling with the nitrate present. Just odd to see cloudy water for so long even when i dont change that much water out. We have a 30gal tank amost 45degrees from this one, and the tank is crystal clear the next day... mind you there is no live plants in it... With the 110gal I did a complete overhaul on it. I know my aquascape isnt anything like what is out there, one of these days.

THanks again for your input Frank.

Another question i have is where is the best placement of my bubble ceramic diffuser for my co2, Ive read both ways either infront of the spray bar to carry the bubbles through out the tank or inline wih the intake to allow more contact of water to co2 bubbles.. is there a better more effecent way between the two?

I think the guys on the site here that use diffusers put them under a source of water movement like the output of a filter, powerhead, or the spraybar as you mentioned.

---

Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients

Hi,
Put the diffuser under the spray bar so the currents carry
the tiny bubbles throughout the tank. The longer that the
bubbles stay below the surface, the better the transfer
of CO2 to the water. Ya want to keep them swirling around
and away from the surface.

Don't place them near the filter intake. They can get
into the filter and clog it making an airlock.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--