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SubscribeNewly Planted 20G
kj fishy-finn
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I just planted my 20 gallon 5 weeks ago and now it is being infested with algae. How do I get rid of the algae and the green glow??? I just changed the lights so that they run for 8 hours. Is there anything else I can do??? Is fertilizing the tank going to make it any worse???

Also I have Egeria densa and Lugwigia repens as my background plants. I do also have some Vallisneria americana but it didnt take the shipping as well and all died off in past weeks. Some of it has started to grow again, but it just doesnt look as nice and I am not liking it as much anymore. Would it look weird if I did E.densa then L.repens then E.densa then L.repens then E.densa again along the back??? Or should I get a third plant to fill in spaces??? If so, what would look good with E.densa, L.repens, Echinodorus quadricostatus and Cryptocoryne becketti???

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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Post InfoPosted 13-Sep-2008 22:23Profile PM Edit Report 
keithgh
 
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Algae Infomation
I suggest you go here first before you do any thing to the tank there is some very useful info here for you.
You say you have just changed the lights and now run for 8 hrs.
What type and size of lighting do you now have and does it differ from the previous lights?
Hrs should not be a bother unless they are not suitable for plants mine are on for 12 hrs a day.
Plant ferts are you using any if so what are you using and how much are you using?

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

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Post InfoPosted 14-Sep-2008 03:34Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kj fishy-finn
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I have not started using any plant ferts yet.

Yes, the lights are different from the one I had on the tank for the last like 5 years. I changed them because I needed different lights in order to do live plants. I believe there is like 3 wpg, but the lights are raised on legs so that not all the light goes into the tank. The light is a fluorescent Coralife Freshwater one. Maybe 6700 whatever the units are.

I believe my problem is actually the green water, but there is a layer of algae on the plants' leaves and it grows on the glass too. So how do I cure that???

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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Post InfoPosted 14-Sep-2008 18:18Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Gone_Troppo
 
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What are you using for substrate? an enhanced plant substrate or just plain gravel?

It sounds like at the moment you are driving the plant life in your tank with lots of light (I consider 3WPG reasonably high). Without the addition of food for them in the form of fertilisers and carbon the plants you want to be growing are probably unable to make use of all the light and the algae is stepping in to fill the gap.

As an immediate treatment for the green water you could try a blackout of a couple of days or a UV sterilizer maybe combined with a water change or two but you will need to look at the underlying cause of the algae to prevent it from making a comeback.

As far as plant choices that's up to you - with 3wpg you have a fairly wide choice of plants - have a look around, see what appeals to you then research it to see if it fits in with the look you are trying to achieve and if it will grow in your conditions.

Good luck

G_T



Never be afraid to try something new. Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
Post InfoPosted 14-Sep-2008 18:37Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kj fishy-finn
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So if I were to start dosing the tank with fertilizers this would help the plants by giving them a boost and help them be able to use more of the light which would rob the algae of it?

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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Post InfoPosted 17-Sep-2008 17:09Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Gone_Troppo
 
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plants and algae need the same nutrient to thrive. Imbalance between lights, CO2, Macro and Micro elements will lead to algal growth. You see, when plants have all those elements balanced they are much faster in up-taking nutrient from water than algae are.
Since algae are nutrient scavengers and much simpler life form than plants, they will take an advantage in unbalanced systems. So, all we need to do is to make sure our plants have enough lights, CO2, Macro and Micro nutrients.
(from http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/)

From what I can tell you have the light part under control, but maybe not the CO2, Macro and Micro nutrients. My suggestion would be to get rid of as much algae as possible by manual removal, water changes and blackouts (a few days with lights out) then get back to it with the lights and ferts and CO2 in some form.

Good Luck

G_T


Never be afraid to try something new. Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
Post InfoPosted 18-Sep-2008 08:16Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Wingsdlc
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Here are a couple links you might want to read. They deal with dosing fertilizers and managing a planted tank. I and a handful of others here have use this. I personally am sold with it as my plants grow really well and I have little algae issues if any. If you can oder dry macro ferts it is super cheap in the long run.
EI Dosing
EI Light

Besides dosing fertilizers make sure you are giving your plants the carbon source they need for photosyntheses. Plants really need three things for photosyntheses: they are water (not a problem I hope), light (looks like you have that covered), and CO2 (seems to be missing).

55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric
Post InfoPosted 18-Sep-2008 12:12Profile AIM PM Edit Delete Report 
kj fishy-finn
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EditedEdited by kj fishy-finn
http://www.barrreport.com/estimative-index/2819-ei-light-those-less-techy-folks.html
For this link, is there any way to change it around for doing a water change every two weeks by any chance?
For a 20 gallon, should I do the first suggested dosing or the second one?
Is there a way I could do this without CO2?
Any suggestions on brands etc for dry fertilizers?
Do they sell dry fertilizers at Petsmart or Petco by any chance?

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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Post InfoPosted 18-Sep-2008 17:59Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
Wingsdlc
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EditedEdited by wingsdlc
Lets see here....I will try and start from the beginning.

~Water Changes - I guess you could try doing water changes ever two weeks if that is your normal schedule. I think as long as you are consistent and don't stock too heavily you might be alright.

~Which dosing option - If you are not running pressurized CO2 then I would do the first one then dose only during water changes and the day after then again one week later.

~I would not really recommend doing a tank with this high of lighting without any carbon source. There are a couple of different options out there for you though being your tank is not super huge.

+Try DIY CO2 (Yeast,Sugar, and Water mix)
or
+Flourish Excel (Found at most pet stores) - Dose everyday.

~Where to get your ferts - I got might from this place the last time or two. A pound will last you at least a year for maybe $20 with shipping. I have not seen dry ferts at any of the chain stores or LFS.


I think that does it.



55G Planted tank thread
19G Container Pond
[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Wingsdlc/Ric
Post InfoPosted 18-Sep-2008 23:11Profile AIM PM Edit Delete Report 
kj fishy-finn
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So if I were to do Flourish Excel dosing everyday and a 50% water change every two weeks you think I could get by?

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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Post InfoPosted 19-Sep-2008 03:43Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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I am having a small fight with Algae on my small Crypt Nevilli (a very small & slow grower)
I am doing about a 40% weekly water change and using a litle extra Flourish excel.
Remember I am referring to a 40lt water capacity tank I have increased the dosage by 1 drop three times a week and it is making a very slow progress.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith

Near enough is not good enough, therefore good enough is not near enough, and only your best will do.
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Post InfoPosted 19-Sep-2008 08:30Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kj fishy-finn
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Because of lack of attention from being at college and rushing without really thinking of everything, I think I am going to have to restart my planted tank with new plants.

Algae has just continuously been getting worse and worse even with water changes happening every other week or every third week. It has gotten to the point where it is entirely covering the plants that are barely hanging on and managing to stay alive without actually growing more.

On April 11, I pulled out what was left of my Egeria densa. The only plants left are some algae covered Echinodorus quadricostatus and a Cryptocoryne becketti. The Vallisneria americana and Ludwigia repens that I started with also were removed a while back because they slowly were being driven away by algae.

I had been dosing the tank with Flourish Excel with one capful every day but to no avail.

When school gets out and I am actually able to give my tank time and attention (which is in like 4 weeks) I would like to have a new plan set in place so that I can get started right away at the beginning of summer and have it all figured out before I start back up again in the fall.

Tanks Stats:
2-3 inches of regular gravel
2 pieces of driftwood
3 wpg light

I think my problem may be that I need to inject CO2. I started looking around at sites telling how to DIY CO2. I have come across some good ones, but are there any really good ones I should know about?

I think I am going to rethink my plant selections over again. Maybe get some plants that do better in high light conditions. Any suggestions on plants?

With the CO2 being added in eventually what will I have to do fertilizer wise?

Plan of attack:
1. Good gravel/water change - pull out rest of plants or save those I can?
2. Set up DIY CO2
3. Get new plants and plant in tank

This is all I can think of for now. What do you think about this? Anything I need to know more? Any more details/information?

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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Post InfoPosted 16-Apr-2009 23:22Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
brandeeno
 
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If you are going for a low scale DIY CO2, check out the jungle labs DIY CO2 system... its simple and easy, but you might be pleased with it... I use it in my small bayfront and my newer 29g. It works pretty well and keeps algae at bay.
Also try some new ferts, API or Tetra make ones that work well, but try switching them up.
-Brandon

\\\\\\\"an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of the cure\\\\\\\"
Post InfoPosted 18-Apr-2009 02:51Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
FRANK
 
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Hi,
Actually, I think you should stick with a low light tank,
and driftwood along with low light plants (Anubis, crypts,
etc.)

You don't say if you have this tank at home and you go to
school in the same town, or if you are setting it up and
then tearing it down to transport it to your residence
while in classes, and then reversing the process for summer
vacation. Who will be caring for the tank while you are
gone?

The academic rigors of school, and added extracurricular
activities all add up to easily neglected tanks that
quickly become algae filled eyesores.

You probably won't have time for religious weekly water
changes, gravel vacuuming, among other chores such as
shopping and laundry.

Keep the tank simple, low light, low light plants, and
very few fish. That type of setup will be far more
forgiving than what you are currently talking about.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 18-Apr-2009 06:40Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kj fishy-finn
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This tank is at my house that is a 1.5 hour drive away from where I am going to school currently. I am planning to fix this tank up and get ahead in the game once school is out in like 4 weeks. I have been going home every other weekend to maintain it and do a water change, but it doesnt give me enough time to really sit down and do anything major to try to combat my algae problem etc. My mom feeds the fish and was putting in however much liquid fertilizer based on my instructions, but it isnt enough when I cant see it everyday to judge its progress.

I would really rather go the route that will be easier to maintain but with the least amount of work/money drainer.

My light is the Coralife FW Aqualight 65W 6700K Flourescent bulb currently if that is any help. If its a matter of being able to buy a bulb that isnt as bright etc then I would be willing to switch to that so it is a lower light tank and easier to maintain like Frank said about a low light tank.

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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Post InfoPosted 23-Apr-2009 02:08Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
FRANK
 
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Hi,
based on your comments, you have 3.25wpg on that tank which
means that you need to provide carbon in some form.

I'm not surprised to hear of the demise of your Val.
I don't know why, but it seems like Val and SeaChem's
Excel just do not mesh and the plant dying off is generally
the case. That leaves you with the injected CO2 route.

The only DIY system that might work is a commercially
available system that runs off tablets that dissolve in
water and give off CO2 gas. That gas is, in turn, passed
through a ladder system that exposes the gas to the tank
water. Properly run it will establish the CO2 saturation
of around 30mg/l that is considered good.
This is what it looks like and where you can get it on-line:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3747+8981&pcatid=8981
The best part is that your mom should be able to recharge
the system when it quits while you are away at school.

Your tank needs to have weekly water changes and gravel
vacuuming as well as (possibly) daily top offs to compensate
for any evaporation.

The bulb is a great bulb, and with injected CO2 you could
have a terrific planted tank. But you need to be there
to shepherd it toward that goal. You would probably be
better off changing the bulb out (put it on a shelf some
where safe) a lower wattage bulb. The least expensive one
would be a standard 18 watt or 20 watt regular old
fluorescent bulb from the nearest hardware store that is
labeled SUNLIGHT or DAYLIGHT. That, and the Crypts plus
the Anubis attached to some driftwood, would survive the
away periods. And, you could continue with the liquid
fertilizer dosing.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 23-Apr-2009 08:27Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kj fishy-finn
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For the link provided, if I order it do I get what is in the picture or what?

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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Post InfoPosted 23-Apr-2009 22:28Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
FRANK
 
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Hi,
Actually, I was showing you what the system looked
like with that link. Call them on their 800 number
and ask about an entire system.

On a similiar line, also from Drs FosterSmith, here is
another option, again using the tablets.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3747+6318&pcatid=6318

Ask them which they would recommend for your size tank,
plants, and fish.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 24-Apr-2009 02:17Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
plantbrain
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I'd stick with Frank's advice.
I have folks that often think more is better, with light, then less is better with nutrients, then neglect and ignore CO2.

These are about the worst things that can be done.

Best to use less light and not wast the energy/cost/electric bill, and keep things growing, but at a slow pace.

Excel can be used, but a couple of species are not that good with it, that's fine, you have 500 other species to chose from.........

Excel and say EI dosing at 1.3 the typical amounts and water changes every 2-3 weeks works very well.

But I still have yet to find any plants I cannot grow well at 2w/gal........

They just grow faster at higher light and require more work, and balancing nutrients becomes more demanding and particularly CO2 demand goes up.

So you have a lot more play and wiggle room with lower light.

You can do a black out to kill off ALGAE FOR 3 DAYS, 50% WATER CHANGES DAILY AND NO co2. Excel will help.
Dose that daily if possible.

You need to be as specific as you can about algae, species, etc, and the CO2 etc.........

Regards,
Tom Barr
Post InfoPosted 27-Apr-2009 05:44Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
kj fishy-finn
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So basically it comes down to 2 options:
Replace my fluorescent bulb
OR
Add one of the 2 CO2 systems with tablets

I would prefer the system that is easiest for my family to maintain when I am back at school in the fall after I get this whole thing under control. I am leaning more towards the CO2 system because the plants I originally had were plants that were supposed to thrive in high light like Ludwigia repens (love the red color it turns when exposed to high light), but I dont know which one I should go with. Are there any specific pros and cons with either choice that I should consider?

Either way I have to try to kill off the algae completely before I add plants or make any adjustments. How do I go about doing that?

I ended up just removing the few plants that were left today when I was home for the weekend and able to do a water change. I figured it would be easier to just restart with all healthy, algae free plants by the time I get this project under way once school is out for the summer.

I adjusted the lights to only run a few hours a day so that in 3 weeks the algae isnt completely out of control when I come home to my tank.

There are only some pieces of driftwood in there and fish. Is there any way to really get the algae off the driftwood for good?

kj fishy-finn <*)))><
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Post InfoPosted 27-Apr-2009 06:09Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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