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  L# Treating Ich In A Planted Tank
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SubscribeTreating Ich In A Planted Tank
fishfool35
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Fingerling
Posts: 46
Votes: 1
Registered: 23-Aug-2004
male usa
I rearranged my planted tank recently, stirring up the substrate quite a bit and moving all the hardscape. Its been about 10 days and now a couple of my fish seem to have ich...I assume the rearrangment may have stressed some of the fish and weakened them??? It doesn't say on the bottle of my ich treatment if it can be used on planted tanks; Its a formalin/malachite green combo. I normally salt my quarantine tanks and raise the temp, but I know plants obviously don't respond well to high salt concentrations. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Post InfoPosted 05-Apr-2009 15:28Profile PM Edit Report 
FRANK
 
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male usa us-colorado
EditedEdited by FRANK
Hi,
Unless you really stressed the fish in the process,
a minor rearrangement of the plants would probably
not have caused the Ich outbreak.
Pulling up a couple of plants and replanting them should
be no big deal. Pulling everything and replanting them
with the fish in the tank, is a big deal and could tip
the balance in favor of high stress and an Ich outbreak.

Not knowing the plants in your tank, You are right,
I'd omit the use of salt in the treatment for Ich.

As an aside, using salt to treat for Ich or as an Ich
preventative went out in the latter part of last century.
Salt, in freshwater causes the fish some stress, and in
response to the stress, the fish's metabolism changes
so that it does not become dehydrated. As one of the
changes due to the metabolism shift the fish steps up
the production of the mucus that coats its body.
The thinking at that time was that with the increased
mucus production that the parasite would have a more
difficult time burrowing through that thicker, fresher,
mucus coat to get at the actual fish itself and burrow
its "head" into the fish.
Actually, stressing the fish weakens its immune system
making it open to some more aggressive infections and
diseases, and can shorten its live span.

Today's medications do the job most efficiently and
the use of salt is no longer necessary or even recommended.

Check the instructions on the medication, the amount of
copper in it should not affect your plants. Do, remove
any carbon (charcoal) from your filter. The carbon will
adsorb the copper from the medication, effectively
removing it from killing the parasite. Do, increase the
temperature of the tank as the increased temperature
will increase the speed of the life cycle of the parasite.
This will cause the encysted parasite to "hatch" into the
free swimming stage, where it is affected and killed by
the formalin and copper in the water, faster and thus
shortening the time needed for treatment. The only time
the parasite is vulnerable is in that free swimming stage.
The rest of the time it is either encysted or burrowed
into the host.

While I'm mentioning it, you don't say anything about how
you actually did the "rearrangement" of the tank. If you
are using Fluorite or one of the "plant soils" for substrate
You undoubtedly made quite a mess inside the tank as the
small clay particles were pulled up into the water column.
Likewise, even in a tank with regular aquarium substrate,
you can turn the tank opaque with detritus.
Next time you are overhauling, you might want to partially
drain the tank into a clean bucket, transfer the fish out
of the tank into the bucket, do the deed and once done,
fill the tank with new water, allow it to reach normal
temperature, and then after the tank becomes clear again,
float the fish in some plastic bags for temperature
equalization, and then pour the fish and water through
a net over a sink, and add the netted fish back into the
rearranged tank.

You might also think about owning, or renting a diatom
filter. I've a 30G tank filled with a 3-4 inch thick
Flourite only, substrate. When I get done you cannot see
a half inch into the tank it is so cloudy with clay particles.
Two to three hours with a diatom filter and the tank is
crystal clear, and ready for the fish.

If you are removing all the fish from the main tank into
the QT tanks, then just turning up the temperature of the
main tank will kill off the parasite in it while you treat
the fish in the QT tanks. You won't need to medicate or
treat the main tank. With no host for the parasite,
the main tank will be free of the parasite in the time that
it takes you to run the medication cycle in the QT tanks.


Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 05-Apr-2009 19:16Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
keithgh
 
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*Ultimate Fish Guru*
Posts: 6371
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Registered: 26-Apr-2003
male australia au-victoria
EditedEdited by keithgh
I agree with Frank about the alterations it is highly unlikely that the Ich started off that way. It is more likely to have come through your water supply.
I have collect my water directly from a instant hot water system and store it for a week because of the Ich that is in my water supply.

Salt is completely out because of the plants.
You could use the medication at half strength if you are concerned. Also if you have scaleless fish make sure it is the correct medication for them.

Have a look in [link=My Profile] http://www.fishprofiles.com/forums/member.aspx?id=1935[/link] for my tank info
Look here for my
Betta 11Gal Desktop & Placidity 5ft Community Tank Photos

Keith


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Post InfoPosted 06-Apr-2009 03:28Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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