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Thanks Dan, this is gonna come in handy when it's time for me to get my false percula.. Are the fish types pretty stringent about following that anemone guideline or will they take others than the ones on the list??

I agree on both accounts that anemones are not for beginning saltwater keepers.

But after a little experience, they make a great addition to any tank. But with anything in saltwater... read, read and more reading is required.

[img src='common/images/biggrin.gif' border=0]

Thanks Shinigami & ACIDRAIN for the input! [img src='common/images/smile.gif' border=0]
And a thanks to cmoreash for the compliments.

Yes, anemones are deffinitely not for the begginner SW aquariust. As there is much to learn about when doing SW, the anemones are for the advanced and some even for the specialist. Most all require specific conditions and specific lighting. They have to be fed and since they cannot go out and get the food like the fish, they have to be hand fed or the food taken right to them. Now on the flip side, they are a wonderful addition to an aquarium. They have their own little active way about them and many have coloration that is simply out of this world.

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There is always a bigger fish...

Yeah, I'm aware that anemones can be successfully kept in captivity, but I think it's safe to say that most are still not for the beginning saltwater aquarist, although I guess I should leave it to the more experienced to give advice on the subject. I have heard on many occasions that anemones are not for beginners.
[Edited by Shinigami, 10/08/02 00:42 GMT]

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The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian.

I notice alot of talk about anemones. As far as "possible" compatible clownfish/anemone combinations the following indicates the most preferred to least habitats for each type of clownfish.


False Percula Clown
Amphiprion ocellaris Carpet anemone,
Ritteri (Maroon) anemone
Saddle anemone
Bubble anemone

Percula Clown
Amphiprion percula Carpet anemone,
Ritteri (Maroon) anemone
Saddle anemone
Bubble anemone

"Sebae" Clown
Amphiprion clarkii Sebae anemone
Long Tentacle anemone
Ritteri (Maroon) anemone
Carpet anemone
Saddle anemone
Bubble anemone

Tomato Clown
Amphiprion frenatus Bubble anemone
Long Tentacle anemone
Sebae anemone

Maroon Clown
Premnas biaculatus Ritteri (Maroon) anemone
Bubble anemone
Long Tentacle anemone

Pink Skunk Clown
Amphiprion perideraion Long Tentacle anemone
Sebae anemone
Ritteri (Maroon) anemone
Carpet anemone
Saddle anemone
Bubble anemone

Bubble anemone = Entacmaea quadricolor
Long tentacle anemone = Macrodactyla doreensis
Sebae anemone = Heteractis malu
Ritteri (Maroon) anemone = Heteractis magnifica
Carpet anemone = Stichodactyla gigantea
Saddle anemone = Stichodactyla haddoni

As well it should be noted as Shinigami has replied on more than one occassion. Keeping anemones is possible, feedings are required, as often as once a week or as little as once a month. Anemones get approximately 80% of their nutrition from photosynthetic processes, but they do require physical feedings of shrimp, squid to maintain an equalized balance with their zooxanthellae.

Anemones are actually fairly complex creatures, and lighting requirements need to be met before purchasing one.
Before considering placing one in a system, it should be noted that they will limit your choice of corals in future (should you feel you are interested in corals later on).
Anemones move on a regular basis, eventually finding a semi-permanent location in the tank, but sooner or later they will wander again.... this is a consideration, as anemones are VERY aggressive creatures, and they will NEVER fail to try and sting a competing coral into submission.
I have personally had a bubble tip sting my finger corals to death... this being the only incidence in 3yrs, I consider it minor... but others have had far more serious failures with placing an anemone in a coral tank... so it does need to be noted.

When picking an anemone from an LFS... they should show immediate retraction when touched, and they should be physically attached to something within the tank... and have colouration within their bodies... a translucent anemone may mean that it has expelled its zooxanthellae... and a starving anemone may take 3 or more months to die... and studies have shown that even naturally white coloured anemones do poorly in captive systems... so any anemones purchased should be of the pink,brown,yellow,red,green variations.

The balance between the anemone and its symbiotic relationship with zooxanthellae... is precarious at best, and unstable water conditions, salinity will result in an upset of that balance... causing the anemone to expell the zooxanthellae... should this happen, the zoo needs to be immediately removed from the tank, and subsequently so should the anemone... as a dying anemone is toxic... but expelled zoo is even more toxic.
However... much like many corals... anemones will always have a period of "cleaning" for lack of a better term. During this period the anemone will retract its tentacles into itself, and a small amount of zoo will be expelled along with waste matter (usually brown in colour, with notable balls of matter within)... this period can last 48 hours... should the anemone be retracted for any longer a period of time, then it is very likely that it is dying.

If this all sounds too complicated... then it is probably best not to keep anemones... however, the relationship between anemones and clownfish is remarkable, and with enough diligence healthy anemones can be maintained.

In regards to the compatibility list... it should be noted that captive clowns will not always take to an anemone, regardless of the fact that the chosen anemone is a suitable host. It is best to try and pick a clown that is already living with an anemone in the LFS... otherwise it is not a sure bet that they will accept eachother.

Strange as it sounds, I'm working on my very first marine tank right now. I've only had it for a month and one of my first additions was an anemone for my Percula Clown. I didn't know that they were supposed to be difficult because then I would have been nervous to get one, but apparently my lighting is up to par and I've been feeding it well because it's still alive one month later. yay for me! [I just feed it shrimp]

1 Ocellaris Clown: $14.95...1 Pink Dottyback: $12.99...1 Three Striped Damsel: $4.50...1 Blue Velvet Damsel: $8.95
The Problems that come with them: Priceless