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mrwizerd Big Fish Posts: 360 Kudos: 197 Votes: 75 Registered: 24-Oct-2005 | I have finally setup my 100g Reef. I have a wet dry sump of about 30 gallons, I have 2.5 Gallons of bioballs and a pump with a mechanical filter that contains charcol for finishing the filtration proces. I have four nozzles on the return and 130 pounds of live rock. This is a new tank and has one hermit crab and two damsels the Live rock is already cured and I will be letting the system stablize for a month before I start adding any more. Oh I also have a seaclone skimmer and two 150 watt heaters and have a 60inch 720w MH/CF light that will be here within the next 4 days. Filtration wise for water prep I am using a 6 stage RO/DI and am curious if any of the following would be usefull. Calcium Reactor Nitrate Reducer Ozone Generator and ORP Controler Kalwizzer Top of thing UV Filter Additonal Chemical Filter (phosban generator, etc) Fluidized Bed Filter I just want to make sure that I have everything I need. Also The tank I am using for some reason the interior glass is foggy the glass itself it isnt something on it it was that way when empty and I couldnt get it off any idea of what it may be? |
Posted 03-May-2006 20:27 | |
Garofoli Big Fish Posts: 337 Kudos: 143 Votes: 27 Registered: 12-Apr-2006 | Protein Skimmer? Chris |
Posted 03-May-2006 22:00 | |
mattyboombatty Moderator Tenellus Obsessor Posts: 2790 Kudos: 1507 Votes: 1301 Registered: 26-Mar-2004 | Protein Skimmer? Looks like a seaclone. I'd wonder myself if it would be sufficient for that size tank. The sump is also a bit smaller than I'd use, but might work out ok. Doesn't allow for any of the other nice features like a DSB or a fuge. Personally I'd get rid of the bioballs. Even with a prefilter, some stuff gets through and will gunk them up over time. The amount of live rock should easily be enough biological filtration provided the circulation is good. On a tank that size a calcium reactor and a kalk topoff would probably be nice - especially if you can hook them up to a controller. I think the fluidized bed, nitrate reducer(don't even know what this is?), and uv filter would be unnecessary. The phosban reactor might be unnecessary, but time will tell there. I don't think ozone is used commonly, so probably isn't really needed. I like that you are going to let things mature a bit before adding anything else. I let my LR sit in my tank for a month and a half while finishing cycling - my rock was "cured" but showed slight levels of ammonia and nitrite. There was nothing in there with it, and I was able to get a nice population of critters going before I added anything. Sounds like a nice setup really. I'd like to see some pictures. With the lighting you will have, you should be able to have a wide variety of corals, sounds like it will be nice! What did you do to try to get the haze off the glass? I'm not really sure on this one. I hope the actual glass isn't bad. Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients |
Posted 03-May-2006 23:20 | |
dthurs Ultimate Fish Guru Posts: 4340 Kudos: 4170 Votes: 529 Registered: 18-Feb-2003 | I noticed that you have two heaters in the tank. I have heard of problems doing this because teh heaters can fight each other. Your best bet is to get a thermostate to run a controler for both heaters. This way they will work together. Dan |
Posted 03-May-2006 23:24 | |
dthurs Ultimate Fish Guru Posts: 4340 Kudos: 4170 Votes: 529 Registered: 18-Feb-2003 | Ok as for what you have listed there. Either the calcium or the kalk, I see no need for both The problem with a UV filter is it kills everything, even the stuff you want to keep Fluidized bed filters, Hmm, make sure you have a deep sand bed of 2" to 3", this will remove your nitrAtes. Dan |
Posted 03-May-2006 23:28 | |
mattyboombatty Moderator Tenellus Obsessor Posts: 2790 Kudos: 1507 Votes: 1301 Registered: 26-Mar-2004 | I run two heaters and while haveing them hooked up to a thermostat is ideal, I just set one a little lower than the other. This way usually only one heater will be working, unless the water temp slips down to where the second heater is set. The second heater will turn off when the temp gets back up to where the first heater can maintain it. Usually a degree is the best you can do this way. Set one at say 78 and one at 77. It's important obviously to watch and make sure that they aren't fighting each other like Dan said. Critical Fertilator: The Micromanager of Macronutrients |
Posted 03-May-2006 23:47 | |
mrwizerd Big Fish Posts: 360 Kudos: 197 Votes: 75 Registered: 24-Oct-2005 | I have done a lot to try to get the glass clean and nothing worked, bleach, vinegar, etc nothing much worked. I think the glass has absorbed something, I am going to have to get another I think I am going to deal with this while I learn then go larger and transfer. I have switched to one 300w for now, it is in my sump. I am going to get one that is thermostat controled I am just waiting for the one I want to get in. I am still building the plumbing for this it just isnt the way I want it. The thing about the top off is if I infact do that I will have to run poly from the garage fish room were the RO is to the other side of the house which will do it fine but it may be unattractive. I think that I am going to end up with a calcium reactor though I plan to add a lot of coral and I want hard ones as well as soft ones Right now I am seeing a bit of stuff pop up on the rocks. I bought a live rock that had a baby purple anemone on it and it is growing well, and I also have some mushrooms, I am actually hoping to learn to cut them so I can make more and spread them out. Anyways, I have some photos, I will get them up soon. |
Posted 27-May-2006 19:21 | |
Garofoli Big Fish Posts: 337 Kudos: 143 Votes: 27 Registered: 12-Apr-2006 | What kind of fish are you putting in there? Chris |
Posted 28-May-2006 01:34 |
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