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Can South American Chichlids be housed in the same tank as Africans? Just a thought and I cant find any info on it.

IME, no. African chichlids tend to need specific water requirements (salts and minerals) that most other fish cant handle.

It's really not the best for either african or american to be added to the wrong water.


^_^

Yea i figured. I like Cichlids from both! I guess I can still dream right

Well you can always get multiple tanks to appease your african and SA cichlid desires. though then you risk becoming infected with MTS, which isn't all so bad really.

Not the rift lake cichlids, but some of the riverine cichlids (ie. Kribensis) have water requirements more similar to that of SA cichlids.

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The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian.

I'd argue that they show and display aggression and other behavior in different ways still, though.

I have a 40gallon tank thats currently empty at the moment. I was looking at Electric Yellows and was wondering if a male with 2-3 females would be comfortable in it. Also, which fish are compatable with an Electric Yellow?

PaulO, Yellows tend to be fairly territorial (at least mine are) so although a 40 gallon for 4 of them should not be an issue, you will want to watch how many other fish and what type you add. With Cichlids the old rule of 1" per fish = 1 gallon in the tank really doesn't apply as Cichlids like to claim territories. Now to your original question... I have a 75 with 5 Electric Yellows, 2 Salvini's, 2 Firemouth, 2 Raphael Catfish, and some Bolivian Rams. With Yellows being from Africa and the others being Central American I can say that they can be mixed, but as other stated I would not recommend it as they get larger. Mine are not fully grown so I haven't seen the temperments yet. I will be buying a tank to split them up geographically in the next few weeks. Hope that helps.

75gal Malawi-Electric Yellows, Demasonis, Elongatus Mpangas, Red Top Hongis, Auratus, Red Zebras, Clown Loaches

180gal C/A-1 Green Terror, 1 Red Devil, 1 Jack Dempsey, 2 EB Jack Dempsey, 2 Salvini's, 5 Firemouths, 1 Striped Raphael, Common Pleco

Hi,
The African Rift fish come from the rift valley system
in Eastern Africa where a hot spot in the earth's mantle
has caused the land to lift up and split into three
distinct valleys, with some very large lakes. The water
in those lakes has upwelled through the rocks and has a
unique chemistry. The pH is 8+, and the GH and KH is
between 11-22 degrees, or 200-400 ppm. It is so high that
many hobbyists call it "Liquid Rock." To maintain those
high levels one should use a carbonate substrate such as
crushed dolomite, crushed limestone, or crushed oyster
shells, or least favorably - crushed coral.
The hardscape (caves & decorations) should be made of
pieces of limestone. As the water ages with that substrate
and hardscape, its chemistry will rise so the pH is in the
8+ range and the hardness is in the desired range all
without the need of additional additives.

Cichlid from South America, come from water that ranges
from a pH of 5-7 and a GH and KH reading that ranges from
3 to 6 degrees, or 50-100 ppm.

Here is a site for the Striped catfish mentioned:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Striped_Raphael_catfish
Note the pH range of 5.8-7.5 and the Hardness range of
2-20 degrees. The two types of fish are vastly different
in their requirements.

If the fish are "wild caught" then their requirements
should be strictly adhered to for them to thrive.
If they are generations removed from their home environment
then the lines become blurred and you might be able to
mix them. How long they might live compared to being
in tanks specifically set up for them is generally a
different matter. Trying to mix a species of fish at
the lower end of their limits with other fish at the very
upper end of their limits, is probably not the best of
ideas.

Frank

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Frank, That is some EXTREMELY useful information, thanks! I didn't take the wild caught scenario in to scope when I replied and for that I stand corrected. My fish (purchased through LFS) are no where near wild specimens and all of the fish have done great in 78 degree water with 7.6ph. My water is naturally pretty hard so that may be helpful to the yellows but detrimental to the SA's. Have to figure out that one as I didn't consider that... maybe Reverse Osmosis the water for the CA's??? Again, thanks for the info as I already knew I needed to set up geographic tanks but never would have thought about your suggestions for rock or substrate. Now I am armed with the knowlege to do it properly...

75gal Malawi-Electric Yellows, Demasonis, Elongatus Mpangas, Red Top Hongis, Auratus, Red Zebras, Clown Loaches

180gal C/A-1 Green Terror, 1 Red Devil, 1 Jack Dempsey, 2 EB Jack Dempsey, 2 Salvini's, 5 Firemouths, 1 Striped Raphael, Common Pleco

Hi,
Thank You and I'm glad I could help.
RO water would work just fine. I hope you already have
an RO filter and aren't planning on purchasing one just
for the fish tank... That might be a bit of a hard sell
to your wife. On the other hand, RO water used in brewing
coffee will extend the life of the coffee machine.. (hint!)

When you are ready to make the switch and set up the SA
tank, first, draw a gallon of water from your tap, let it
degas for 24 hours and then test it for pH, GH, etc.

Then try pouring out a 1/4 gallon and refill the jug with
RO water. Shake well, and let it set for 24 hours and
test again. See where the pH and GH are now. If you
need to lower the values, dump the jug, and refill with
say, a 1/2 gallon of RO and a 1/2 gallon of tap water.
Shake well, and let stand for 24 hours to degas and test
again. Are you still too high in pH & GH? or, is it just
fine. If too much, try 3/4 RO and 1/4 Tap.

The idea is to get the ratio of RO to tap water that will
give you your desired values and then use that ratio for
filling the tank. Pour in 20 gallons of tap and 20 of
RO. The same when doing a weekly water change use the
same ratio. 10 gallons of Tap and 4 of RO, etc...

It makes it easier if you change out 10 or 20 or 30
gallons when computing the replacement water, and also for
full refills.

You do not want to use straight RO water. That water is
almost as sterile as Distilled Water. There are no
minerals or nutrients that the fish need in RO or DI water.
Always add some tap to the tank for the minerals and
nutrients that the fish need.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Frank, one more question regarding the Malawi set up... I generally fill a 5 gallon buckets up with tap water and then use TopFin Water Conditioner which is supposed to neutralize Chlorine, Chloramine, and Heavy metals for water changes. based on your statements above about the water needing to be very hard and the fish having needs for minerals am I using something I should not be? What (if anything) do you recommend for water conditioner for a Malawi setup?

75gal Malawi-Electric Yellows, Demasonis, Elongatus Mpangas, Red Top Hongis, Auratus, Red Zebras, Clown Loaches

180gal C/A-1 Green Terror, 1 Red Devil, 1 Jack Dempsey, 2 EB Jack Dempsey, 2 Salvini's, 5 Firemouths, 1 Striped Raphael, Common Pleco