FishProfiles.com Message Forums |
faq | etiquette | register | my account | search | mailbox |
Sand vs. pebble/rock | |
captonize Posts: 5 Kudos: 7 Votes: 2 Registered: 25-Mar-2012 | so this should get some interest back into the forums . what should we use in setting up a fresh water aquarium shall we use sand as sand wont let the bi products or food collect down in rock like when we use the normal pebbles. and which sand to use, because some sand will raise the ph scale and others are tuned to growing algae fast. there are a lot of pros and cons, what are your opinions? |
Posted 26-Mar-2012 09:12 | |
FRANK Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 | Hi and Welcome to Fish Profiles! Probably, the worst substrate consists of pebbles or the small polished pebbles, or marbles. These, when used as substrates, allow all sorts of detritus to settle in the large gaps between them and there they rot and pollute the tank. Normal aquarium gravel is a #2 or #3 size grain. provides a good balance between appearance, and the needs of the plants to give them a place grow roots to anchor the plant and a nutrient sump for the roots to draw from. Sand can be used as a substrate, but with it comes a variety of problems that with attention can be overcome. The general depth of a substrate should be between 3 - 4 inches. If you use sand, that deep, over time, it will compress itself, and the bacerial film that grows around each grain will close off any circulation and form a barrier between the upper half inch or so of the bed and the lower reaches. This will create an anaerobic area within the bed that is toxic to the aerobic bacterial colonies that live within the substrate and also kill off the roots of the plants. Most folks choose sand for its resemblance to the "white sunny beaches" It can really look nice, and some use it to form features, such as a "stream" running through a darker substrate. Another problem is that sand, over time, will stain and discolor due to any iron in the water, and some organic compounds that are created in the water through the breakdown of waste products. Even with constant maintenance, the sand will gradually loose its "nice" white color and have to be replaced. Another problem with sand is that with the bright color, very small grain size, and very small gaps between grains, any solid waste will become obvious and it needs constant cleaning to, well, keep it clean. The bright white color will reflect the light, and many fish will remain huddled under something that gives them shade, or some ob flying predators. For some, it is simply too bright, and they stay in the shaded portions of the tank. Sand is Silica and sand can cause outbreaks of diatoms, (commonly called "Brown Algae." These single cell critters actually thrive on the silica floating around in the water (it's a real banquet for them) and it can give way to an amazing agal bloom. Great food for baby fish, but a real headache for the hobbiest. Sand can be a problem when trying to grow some plants. Because of the small grain size, there is not enough "weight" to hold the plant down and they constantly break free and float to the surface. It's good for small foreground plants but larger plants can become problematic. Another problem with sand, due to its small grain size is that it is easily disturbed. Fish suddenly changing direction, water changes, and cleaning can cause the grains to float up into the water column where currents can carry them around the tank and they are sucked into the filters where they will easily grind up the impeller blades of the filter pump. You can resolve this problem by keeping intakes high up in the water column instead down closer to the substrate. Also, wrap a piece of sponge pad around the filter intake and secure it with a couple of rubber bands. This forms a "prefilter" that will keep the grains of sand out of the filter. It's hard to clean sand. The siphons, such as the python style, will empty the tank of sand in a heart beat, where with regular aquarium gravel it will just swirl around in the intake tube knock off any clinging detritus to be carried off, and the cleaned gravel will settle back down to the bottom of the tank. If you are going to use sand, then I would not use more than an inch for the substrate thickness. Use foreground to mid tank plants, house some corry catfish, and/or the MTS burrowing snails in the tank to keep the substrate "loose" and aerated. One can purchase aquarium gravel that is inert, and is actually quartz. You can purchase sand that varies from beach white through shades of brown, to jet black. for the most part, these are all varieties of quartz (Silicon dioxide, SiO2). To increase the hardness and pH of the water you can use any substrate that is a carbonate. Substrates such as crushed coral, dolomite, or limestone will all dissolve in the water and bring your pH into the "8s" and increase the hardness into "liquid rock" perfect for Rift Fish, live bearers, and such. Some rocks, when put in the water will do the same. Collecting rocks for the tank can be great fun, and can also cause problems. When collecting rocks for the tank in the wild, you must scrub them well with a good stiff brush and wash them to remove any dirt, roots, and "critters" that might be living on them. Then take a pocket knife or something to scratch the surface and scrape off a small piece of the rock to get rid of the weathering. When you have a fresh surface exposed place a drop or two of vinegar on the newly exposed surface. Vinegar is a weak acid (acetic acid) and if the rock is a carbonate, it will give off bubbles (fiz). If you are concerned about your pH, then do not use the rock if it fizzes. If if does not then chances are it will be just fine in the tank. Don't use any rocks that have iron in them or especially copper. Some substrates are "plant friendly" in that they have nutrients in them that are like time release capsules. These feed the plants over time. The problem is that the "over time" is generally about a year, and after that, all the nutrients have leached into the water and then they become just like any other substrate, just something for the plants to anchor themselves in. One exception to that is the various clays, such as Laterite and SeaChem's fluorite. This is an iron rich clay that the plants can draw on for their iron needs from for years and years. Substrates for planted tanks should be 3-4 inches thick and generally should be a #2 or #3 grain size. This gravel and grain size will allow you to grow virtually any size plant from tiny foreground plants to tank busting plants like jungle val and huge amazon swords. If you aren't going to grow large plants then you don't need that kind of depth and one to two inches would be fine. Sand can be a problem but use a shallow bed no more than an inch thick. Keep it clean, and aerated. Any of the plant friendly "soils/substrates" are designed specifically for plants and encourage their growth. Some last for years, and others peter out after 6 months to a year. By themselves, pebbles and marbles are not a good substrate plants will be stunted, if they grow at all, and that type of "bottom" is a septic tank in the making. Hope this helps... There are all sorts of books and hundreds of articles that have been written on the subject. Do some research... Frank -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
Posted 27-Mar-2012 07:25 | |
Babelfish Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003 | Even having done all my research into using sand I still had a long series of unfortunate events () with it. Won't have sand in any tank again because of it. We have regular aquarium gravel in all of ours now. ^_^ |
Posted 27-Mar-2012 23:06 |
Jump to: |
The views expressed on this page are the implied opinions of their respective authors.
Under no circumstances do the comments on this page represent the opinions of the staff of FishProfiles.com.
FishProfiles.com Forums, version 11.0
Mazeguy Smilies