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I live on Florida's West coast where the aquifer is lined with limestone and phosphates I think.. I want to keep Apistogrammas and possibly freshwater angelfish but these call for much softer water than I have. Hence, I began research on RO units. I see two stage to six stage offers along with "DI" feature. I'm pretty lost about what I need-- took advice from my best pet store and treated my 55 gallon with Proper PH 6.5.. went well after double-dose for a couple days-then it snowed crystals after I turned filters off(to see why it had got so cloudy). I think no more chemicals. So if I want to maintain a 55 gallon, a 29 gallon and maybe a 40 simultaineously...what sort of unit do I look at? Thanks- Jim

Chems are bad, they usually cause the ph to swing more than anything else, and fluctuations of ph or temp are bad when it comes to fish.


You may want to as what ph your store keeps its angels at. Sometimes they're close to what your tap water is. Do you know your actual Ph out of the tap?

Driftwood and peat moss can also help lower ph as well.

I'd suggest finding out what ph the fish are at before stressing too much about changing your own ph.


^_^

Hi Jim,
The "snowed crystals" means that when you turned off the filters the water became supersaturated and the chemical precipated out in the form of crystals that fell to the bottom of the tank.

Babelfish is correct and offers some sound advice when she suggests that you check with the dealers who are selling the fish and find out what their tanks are maintained at. If you can find out their sources for those particular fish and write the the breeders they will also let you know the parameters of the water that they are raising their fish in. Unless you are purchasing "Wild Caught" fish, the chances are that they are "Farm Raised" and are used to more moderate water qualities.

You will be maintaining 124 gallons of water, total. Your RO or RODI unit will need to provide enough water to make at least a 20 -50% water change weekly. If you want to change the water daily say for breeding enticement purposes, then that amount of water required increases dramatically. The "DI" unit cuts down on the Total Disolved Solids (TDS) that are in the processed water product.

Investigate the fish first to see if you need to add the RODI system. If you do, then you will need to purchase a system that will provide you with the number of gallons of water that you will require for your tanks (Gallons Per Day- GPD). Realize that it can take 10 gallons +/- of tap water to provide 1 gallon of processed water. Your water utility bill (some companies charge for both water used and water returned (sewage)) could soar with its use.

Frank

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Thank you, Babelfish and Frank-- I am listening to you very closely and agree(especially we are not water wizards so stay away from chemicals) to slow down and find out where my fish come from. Babelfish... My ph out of tap is near 8; thus my concern.. esp. with Apistos. Ordering driftwood and java moss this week, likely put peat in small filter and monitor for a few weeks as to see what does what. I'll relax and use parameters within reason. And Frank..you make it a little simpler as to RO; I think the DI accessory is a good idea ,no? But thank goodness I have my own well so I will just be wearing out my pump and some electric bills. Um, yes I am having a hard time not wanting the RO, but we'll see. Thank you guys very much...Peace... Jim

Hi Jim,
The drift wood and peat moss ideas (especially the peat moss) do work. However, the drift wood only leaches acids into the system until the "zone of depletion" expands to form a barrier and then the wood ceases to affect the waters' pH. The wood contains acids and when immersed the acids leach out into the water. This can affect the water greatly by turning it yellow and dropping the pH, over time the process slows as the acids have to travel a further distance from deeper inside the piece of wood to the point where its just too far (zone of depletion) and the acids cease to migrate.
This is why folks soak "drift wood," not only so that it will stay submerged, but also so the acids stop leaching out and affecting the pH and in some cases coloring the water.

Frank


Peat moss works, but over time, it too "wears out" and must be replaced, on a regular basis. Be sure to purchase only "true peat moss." No additives!

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

First, I'd recommend you figure out the quality of water you need. RO produces pure water (with a TDS of < 10% of the feedwater), and RO water that then runs through a DI stage is even more pure.

I wouldn't worry too much about the number of stages. For RO, go with a default of 3, and for DI, go with a default of 4. Add more stage ONLY if you are trying to treat specific water quality issues.

Common RO membrane capacities for this hobby range from 24 to 150 gpd. Remember that unless you have factory spec pressure and water temperature, you'll not get the full factory specified production rate.

Russ

Realize that it can take 10 gallons +/- of tap water to provide 1 gallon of processed water.

If it does, then your RO needs some attention. You should be down near a 4:1 in most circumstances. If you're not, the ratio can be adjusted with minimal expense.

Russ

For Buckeye Field Supply- Thanks for your help... I am worried about water pressure- Due to old, smallish pump combined with scale in incoming lines. I may be alright though. Can you advise on how I can measure my pressure? Jim

Hi Jim,
I'm on a well also. There are several sites that are
devoted to well owners and well maintenance.
This might help you:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Plumbing-Home-1735/pressure-tank-settings.htm

My pressure tank has an internal rubber bladder. On the
top of the tank is a fitting much like the valve that
sticks out of the rim of your automobile tires. A simple
tire pressure gage will tell you what pressure you have
in the tank. Another way is to obtain a pressure gage
(dial type) and attach it to your faucet (remove the
screen aerator from the faucet and thread the gage onto
it, then turn the faucet on and read the pressure.

Frank

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Frank.. Intend to look at pump tomorrow for fitting for tire guage. Whew, I'm trying to catch up on important projects without taking time off work! That's why I really appreciate your spot-on help. Again.. Thanks, Jim

Yah, work always seems to get in the way of fun!!

Frank

-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--