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	To scrape or not to scrape....
harleysiber Fish Addict Posts: 591 Kudos: 554 Votes: 47 Registered: 11-Aug-2003	I'm a month into the cycle of my 55g, and brown algae is forming on everything. As I live in a basement and have had this problem in my other tanks, this comes as no surprise. The nitrItes are starting to drop, and the nitrAtes starting to climb. Is it safe yet to scrape the algae off the glass (not completely remove), or will this affect the bacteria growth?
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:23
Bob Wesolowski Mega Fish Posts: 1379 Kudos: 1462 Registered: 14-Oct-2004	Harley, feel free to clean off the diatomaceous algae. It won't affect the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate cycle. Just raise your lighting either length, intensity or both to knock down on the problem. __________ "To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research." researched from Steven Wright
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:23
harleysiber Fish Addict Posts: 591 Kudos: 554 Votes: 47 Registered: 11-Aug-2003	Cool. Bye-bye brown. The brown algae/basement syndrome seems to be attributed to how long the room lights are on, also. I noticed this in my 30. If the lights are contstantly off, the tank will "get used to" the low light after a while. Currently, the 55 has high strength SW lights, as it used to be a reef tank. I suppose a bulb change is in order, but I've somewhat gotten used to the "yucky brown stuff" and routine deep tank cleanses. I think the main issue here is that the 55 is in the living room, where the bright room light is off, on, off, on, off all day. (basement apartments stink)
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:23
victimizati0n Banned Posts: 1217 Kudos: 1105 Votes: 31 Registered: 29-Apr-2004	you could of scraped it off a long time ago. I dont really see how it could effect the cycling.
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:23
fishyhelper288 Fish Guru Posts: 2161 Kudos: 1951 Votes: 137 Registered: 29-Feb-2004	why mot leave it, and when ur tank is stable get 7 ottos, ur tank will be perfect in a week or 2
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:23
harleysiber Fish Addict Posts: 591 Kudos: 554 Votes: 47 Registered: 11-Aug-2003	Can't have ottos in that tank unfortun ately. Currently houses 2 African Cichlids and will be home to more once fully cycled. I would never wish being a meal onto any fish.
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:23
Babelfish Administrator Small Fry with Ketchup Posts: 6833 Kudos: 8324 Votes: 1570 Registered: 17-Apr-2003	Just raise your lighting either length, intensity or both to knock down on the problem. IME the photoperiod being a cause of diatoms is just an oldwives tale. If after waterchanges and increased lighting you're still having a problem with it I suggest picking up a phosphate remover that also removes sillica. I use phosguard from seachem. It cannot be used in some tankes (for instance it aparently kills clown loaches). It may either be in your water source or have excess phosphates and sillica from your food. It doesn't take much "overfeeding" (I've had it in tanks that don't get fed much ) to get the brown stuff. ^_^ [hr width='40%']"I'm alright, I'm alright It only hurts when I breathe"
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:23
harleysiber Fish Addict Posts: 591 Kudos: 554 Votes: 47 Registered: 11-Aug-2003	Thanks, Babel. I never thought of phosphate, and I've been cursing the lighting situation in my bedroom tank for almost two years now??? Something I should probably look into, now that I have a showpiece for the livingroom. Are there any phosphate testers out there? I've never seen them at the LFS, and I noticed that the LFS can only do the normal water parameter checks (I've got more testers at home than I've seen there). Or would a reef specialty store be able to test for me? Found a really great one by work that's making me want a 125g. One at a time, I know. Last edited by harleysiber at 26-Mar-2005 13:54
Posted 26-Jan-2006 11:23


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