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SubscribeCO2 Controller
mattyboombatty
 
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Well I've been thinking about getting a digital pH moniter/controller for my setup. It seems like the only one out there is made by Milwaukee and ranges from $80-120 without shipping. I've been frustrated by not knowing what the pH (and therefore CO2 level) is in the tank and just doing guesswork. I also feel that I can't get a great setting on the needle valve. When I have time to check pH, it actually seems too low, then I adjust the bubble count and a couple days later it's too high. I'd like to set it and forget it.....late night infomercial just slipped out.

Anyways, I was wondering if anyone uses one, what type you use and what you think about it.

Thanks,
Matt



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Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 08:06Profile Homepage PM Edit Report 
LITTLE_FISH
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Matty,

When I bought my CO2 system I went all out and got the regulator AND the Milwaukee ph controller. As of today, it is still in the box (there is a good $100 investment). After I ordered the gang here convinced me that it is just one more thing to worry about.

What regulator do you have? I haven't had any bubble counter issues in months. Can you give us more specific numbers on that you mean by ph being too low. What is your tab ph and your KH?

Ingo


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Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 12:26Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
bensaf
 
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I've been frustrated by not knowing what the pH (and therefore CO2 level) is in the tank and just doing guesswork.


A pH test kit

A controller is not neccessarily the answer to your problems, they go wonky (build up on the probe etc) and need to be calibrated etc.

A solenoid on the same timer should allow you not to have to touch the needle valve again once set.


Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.
Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 15:38Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
mattyboombatty
 
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What regulator do you have? I haven't had any bubble counter issues in months. Can you give us more specific numbers on that you mean by ph being too low. What is your tab ph and your KH?


I have a blueline regulator, it's just like the milwaukee one. Maybe it's a little cheaper made, because the needle valve is weird. I can get the bubble count down to a little more than 1 bps, then when I try to nudge it down a little more it actually speeds up.

pH out of my tap shouldn't matter, in fact I don't recall what it is. All I know is it's above the highest reading on my test kit which is 7.6 I think. The KH is 7 right now. That fluctuates between about 5-7. The pH in my tank last night(in my best guess at shades of bluegreenyellow) was below 6.4. So you don't have to go to the chart, that's 84ppm or more of CO2. Last night I noticed my fish freaking out, that's why I tested. Then I tried to lower the bubble count, got ticked off and started looking at expensive equipment.

A pH test kit

Hard to read, could be 6.6, could be 6.4, or lower. Maybe instead of the controller, I'll just get a handheld pH meter. Those are pretty cheap.

they go wonky (build up on the probe etc) and need to be calibrated etc.


Now this is kind of what I was looking for. Have you used one, how long, what one, your experience? How often do you need to calibrate them or get rid of the build up? It probably takes less time alltogether than testing the pH every week does.
A solenoid on the same timer should allow you not to have to touch the needle valve again once set


I have a solenoid, but for the sake of not having another timer on the tank, I just plug it in and leave it. It's almost a waste having one of these IMO, cause I never use it. If I had a controller, then I could properly use the solenoid.

Anyways it was just an idea, I guess they aren't what they are cracked up to be. I'll go fiddle with the needle valve a little more.



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Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 17:04Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
LITTLE_FISH
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Matty,

One thing you can try before you go out and buy anything would be to change the pressure that goes to the needle valve, the "main wheel" (forgot the name). This may change your needle valve's adjustment and the little turns on it may actually work. I hope I described this in a way that you understand what I mean.

You go from 7.high (tab) to 6.6 (or 6.4) with only one bubble per second? Wow, that sounds really odd, in particular because you say you have a KH that would be a sufficient buffer (7dH, right). I don't think GH has anything to do with this, but do you happen to know that value?

Ingo


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Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 17:21Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
NowherMan6
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Matty,

First of all, nice to see you back in the Planted tank forum. I'm waiting for new pics on your Log thread

Second, perhaps the best piece of equipment you can buy right now is a new regulator/ needle valve set-up. A very good one can be had for 100 bucks or so. For example, here


Back in the saddle!
Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 17:23Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
FRANK
 
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EditedEdited by FRANK
Hi,
Because I'm of the school that believes in just adjusting
the CO2 injection rate with the needle valve, and then
leaving things alone, I never bothered with a controller.
Instead, I purchased a "Pinpoint pH Monitor" from Drs
Fostersmith.com. I leave the probe in the tank in
the corner out of sight, and set the meter off to
the side, and glance at it whenever I walk into the
room. It runs off a single 9V battery that
I occassionally have to change, and tells me
constantly what my pH is.
An occassional test 12-24 hours after a water change tells
me what the KH is, and from the meter reading and knowing
what the pH is tells me what my CO2 saturation is.

Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--
Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 17:33Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
mattyboombatty
 
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change the pressure that goes to the needle valve


I getcha here.....what do you keep the second pressure valve at? Mine is at 20psi. That is the pressure going to the needle valve and I adjust from there. Is this a good spot, should I raise that or lower it?

that would be a sufficient buffer (7dH, right)


Yes, tested last night twice, it was 7dKH or 125.3ppm. The

I don't think GH has anything to do with this, but do you happen to know that value?


GH I tested out of the tap a long time ago and was much higher than the KH. I tried to test this just now for you but my kit is old and corrupted. Either way, the buffers are doing their job, I just have too much CO2 going into a small-medium size tank.

First of all, nice to see you back in the Planted tank forum. I'm waiting for new pics on your Log thread


Thanks NowherMan, I'll get a pic up there in a few minutes, but it aint purdy.

Second, perhaps the best piece of equipment you can buy right now is a new regulator/ needle valve set-up.


You mean something like this?:


Instead, I purchased a "Pinpoint pH Monitor" from Drs
Fostersmith.com.


Hi FRANK, I like this idea, sounds accurate to me, as long as I can get the regulator to do what I want it to. Does this seem pretty accurate to you? What brand do you have?

Thanks for the help guys, I'm sure I'll figure something out.



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Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 22:47Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
NowherMan6
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Swing and a miss!

I guess you already have that one... but if the needle valve is still wonky it does you no good, a new set-up may help still...


Back in the saddle!
Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 23:14Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
mattyboombatty
 
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Yep it would probably help, but I'm not going to pay for another one. Call me stubborn I guess.



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Post InfoPosted 21-Feb-2006 23:28Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
LITTLE_FISH
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Matty,

20 seems right, that is about what I have. But I am sure it doesn't matter if this is 18 or 22. Just give it a try, crank it up a notch and see if you can wiggle the neddle valve into the right position. One other thing that I noticed on mine is that there is a difference if I just notch it a little or if I turn it way up and then lower it to the desired level (or way down and then raise it again).

Ingo


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Post InfoPosted 22-Feb-2006 01:14Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
mattyboombatty
 
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Well I did as you suggested and I have a slower bubble count. This should be close to what I'm looking for. We'll see. I certainly don't hear as many bubbly noises in my reactor right now unless I get really close.



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Post InfoPosted 22-Feb-2006 02:14Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
bensaf
 
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I'll throw a cheap $10 idea.

If I read right your main problem is too much gas going in and stressing the fish.

From your describtion your are using a reactor.

Try using a glass diffuser. If there's too much gas going in they tend to produce bigger bubbles which won't dissolve as well. Also the fish seem to be better able to handle a lot of gas bubbles bouncing around then they can handle highly saturated water.

It should give you a nice saturation level but not overboard stressing the fish.

Get a timer for the solenoid !


Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.
Post InfoPosted 22-Feb-2006 03:38Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
mattyboombatty
 
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Get a timer for the solenoid !

This I might do. It also means I'll have to get another power strip.

I'll think about the glass diffuser, but while it might be invisible in larger tanks, in my tank it's goig to be seen. Even if it's in the back corner. I've even been thinking about an external heater, that's how much I want to get things out of the tank. But, if I can't get the right setting on the needle valve, I may try this out instead of a controller.



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Post InfoPosted 23-Feb-2006 17:28Profile Homepage PM Edit Delete Report 
bensaf
 
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This I might do. It also means I'll have to get another power strip.


Ok I'll re-phrase it. Stick it on the same timer as the lights !


Some days you're the pigeon and some days you're the statue.

Remember that age and treachery will always triumph over youth and ability.
Post InfoPosted 24-Feb-2006 03:37Profile PM Edit Delete Report 
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