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![]() | CO2 and airpumps |
fry![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Enthusiast Posts: 243 Kudos: 195 Votes: 3 Registered: 27-Jul-2004 ![]() ![]() | got a DIY CO2 rig working fine (bubling continuously) now, but now i came to think of another problem: should i turn off the airpump? on one hand, the air bubbles help release the desolved CO2 back to the atmosphere. on the other hand, i need that oxygen, aspecially at night. i could disconnect the CO2 rig at night, but that will jerk with the Ph. should i turn the airpump off while the lights are on? should i turn it off at night? should i turn off the CO2 at night instead? |
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jake![]() ![]() Fish Addict Posts: 594 Kudos: 875 Votes: 2 Registered: 21-Mar-2004 ![]() ![]() | should i turn the airpump off while the lights are on? Yes. on the other hand, i need that oxygen, aspecially at night. Run the air pump at night when the lights are off. |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, The normal CO2 saturation in a tank at equilibrium is about 5mg/l. Plants seem to prefer something between 15-19mg/l saturation. If you use an airstone or a filter return that riles the surface, then you are breaking the surface tension that is helping to hold the CO2 that you injected, within the water. The aeration drives off the excess CO2 sending the tank back to near equilibrium. With the ideal CO2 saturated tank, especially one that is DIY CO2, you don't want airstones, nor do you want the filter return to be riling the surface. You want a quiet surface. With Bottled CO2, you can increase the CO2 injection to compensate for the agitated surface and still maintain the desired saturation. Unless your tank is heavily overstocked, you do not need to shut off the CO2 injection. Yes, with the lights out plants switch to using O2 instead of releasing it, but that effect is way, way over stated. The only time you NEED to shut off CO2 injection, is if you find the fish gasping at the surface first thing in the morning. If they are not doing that, then leave the CO2 injection, and rate of injection, alone. It takes a while for the CO2 saturation to build back up to the desired level after you shut it off, and the tank returns to equilibrium, and that is just wasting gas. Frank ![]() -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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jake![]() ![]() Fish Addict Posts: 594 Kudos: 875 Votes: 2 Registered: 21-Mar-2004 ![]() ![]() | with the lights out plants switch to using O2 instead That depends on the amount of plants, does it not? I've seen a tank with a kh of 4 degrees go from a ph of 7.4 to 7.0 an hour after lights off, with no co2 running. I know of many people that have diy co2 that have an airstone on a timer, set to go on a couple hours after lights out and to shut off a few hours before lights on. I've never used anything besides pressurized co2, but I thought this was the norm for diy people? [span class="edited"][Edited by jake 2004-08-02 22:22][/span] |
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DaMossMan![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Fish Guru Piranha Bait Posts: 2511 Kudos: 2117 Votes: 359 Registered: 16-Nov-2003 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Unless you use pressurized systems, no way to shut off the co2. If filter disturbs surface too much you can stick a piece of sponge in the pickup tube to reduce flow. Airstones defeat the purpose of co2. The Amazon Nut... |
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jake![]() ![]() Fish Addict Posts: 594 Kudos: 875 Votes: 2 Registered: 21-Mar-2004 ![]() ![]() | So diy co2 people just leave their co2 going all night and don't use an airstone AT NIGHT to outgas it? |
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FRANK![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Moderator Posts: 5108 Kudos: 5263 Votes: 1690 Registered: 28-Dec-2002 ![]() ![]() ![]() | Hi, As I mentioned in my earlier post, there is no sense in spending the day building up the CO2 saturation only to rid the tank of it during the night. That is a needless waste of the gas. Unlike with a bottled system, there is no way to shut off the chemical reaction that produces the CO2 in a DIY system. Plugging the system or using a valve to shut it off would cause tremendous back pressure that would result in leaking at weak points in joints, or explosion of the container. The only other way would be to shunt it off into the atmosphere with a valve. Jake's post does touch on an important value, the KH of the tank. KH is a measure of the Carbonate Hardness of the tank's water. In tanks with low KH the pH will swing over a greater range between hours of light and hours without light. Between times of CO2 injection and no injection. The KH buffers the acid (pH) and the higher the KH, the smaller the pH swings. This can be a double edged sword however. If the CO2 output drops off, it won't make a "dent" in the pH if the KH is high. On the other hand, with DIY CO2 the output is "fast and furious" in the beginning, and with a low KH the pH would drop like a rock at first, and then slowly climb as the concoction ages and the production drops off. It's better for the fish and the plants to have a higher KH. If your KH is low, simply add regular, unscented, baking soda to the tank ( a little at a time and test) to raise just the KH. If you are using bottled CO2 injection, IMO you should have a KH of 3 at the very, very, least, and preferably have a KH around 5. If, and only if, your fish are gasping at the surface first thing in the morning, then you need to add an airstone as the O2 is below the level where they are comfortable. Jake also makes comment about the pH shifting .4 within an hour of lights out in a tank. He mentions nothing about the surface of that tank and is it being disturbed by the filter return. Actually, whole lakes shift that .4 and even more when the sun goes down and the fish in the lake are perfectly fine with the pH swing. With a basic bottled system, you have a regulator and secondary regulator the needle valve. You open the tank, and then adjust the first stage for about 1bar, then you adjust the needle valve to deliver a specific number of bubbles per second. Turning off the system should, for safety, be carried out by backing off the 1st stage to zero and then opening the needle valve to allow the exess gas out, then turning off the tank. That is alot of valve twisting and can wear out the gaskets, valves, and valve seats. Additionally, the chances of getting the right settings the next day, are not very good which means that you have to "fiddle" with the needle valve for a while to get back to your origional setting (pH) What is usually done, is to shut off the gas with a solenoid valve. This valve is connected to either a controller, or a timer. If a controller is used, it also has a pH probe connected to it. The controller is set so that when the pH raises to a given point, the gas is turned on, and when the pH drops to a set point, the gas is turned off - all automatically. With a timer, the solenoid is turned on with the lights and off with the lights. Frank ![]() [span class="edited"][Edited by FRANK 2004-08-03 09:47][/span] -->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<-- |
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