FishProfiles.com Message Forums

First I want to say Hi everybody and thank you for the useful information you guys posted here
Like 2 months ago, this forum (and you guys) starts me up again to make a tank.
I did a 10g tank with 2x 27W florescent compact bulbs Day Light (6500K).
DIY CO2
Since i start the thank I use to have Ph 7-7.2 with Kh 6 - 8. This is the only water checks i ever did.
WC every week
Flourish E 5ml once a week after WC and 1ml everyday since 2 weeks ago.
I had 4 gupys and 2 Otos.
2 hours ago when I came from work i found just 3 gupys( and they are not doing well) the other fishes are death and, in water is a lots of very small white WORMS:%).
Please if anyone can help me .
Is look like is not enough CO2 in water. Ph 7.6 and Kh 6
Or maybe too much Flourish Excel

PS

Please excuse my English language I’m ESL

You'd probably do better if this was in the hospital rather than planted .

While it could be a sudden drop in ph that caused the deaths it could also be something else. If possible could you please get some water tests done either with your own kit or through a LFS?

Read through [link=this sticky]http://www.fishprofiles.com/files/forums/The%20Hospital/43725.html?200407200128" style="COLOR: #EB4288[/link] and answer as many of the questions as possible.

We'll be better able to help you with that information .

^_^[hr width='40%'][/font]

hi
juat wondering...why r u putting flourish excel when u have a diy co2 in there??? and 5ml is too much in a 10g.
do u have enuf water movement on the surface??

Last edited by tankie at 16-Dec-2005 23:38

Hi,
From the initial sound of things, I'd guess that you
have not been doing weekly water changes, have not been
cleaning your filter (if you have one) regularly, have
been feeding too much food or too often, and have perhaps
been too busy to attend to the tank. Either some of the
above, or all of the above.

The white worms are nearly always in a tank, but you
almost, to never, see them in a well maintained tank. They
are the result of the accumulation of fish waste, excess
food, and dead/dying plant material in the substrate.

You probably do not need to dose the tank with the "Excel"
choice of Flourish. They make several types of Flourish,
each with its own specialty. Some come with extra iron,
others with extra carbon, etc. A good one, that is kind
of like a multi-vitamin is simply labeled Flourish.
Be sure to use the dropper that comes with the bottle and
in a small tank, it only takes a few drops to dose the
tank. Read the label and then do the math to determine
how many drops it will take.

You should purchase a comprehensive test kit such as the
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. Freshwater Master Test Kit.
It will allow you to test your water and determine the
pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, GH, and KH of the water. All are
important and the values of each should be kept within
certain limits. For instance, for most fish the pH should
be somewhere around 6.8 to 7.2. The Ammonia should always
read "Zero" in an established tank. The Nitrite should also
read "Zero" in an established tank. The GH (General
Hardness depends upon your tap water, its source, and
sometimes upon what ornaments you have in the tank (rocks
etc). The KH is the Carbonate Hardness, and it too depends
upon your tap water, its source, and again on any rocks
or even what your substrate (gravel) is.

You should make a habit of testing your tank every week
to start off with. Later, as you have more experience,
you could get by with testing more infrequently.
Purchase a test kit, and then publish your numbers here
in this thread. They (the water values) will help us all
in giving you specific advice.

For now, generally speaking, you should to about a 50%
water change (be sure to match temperatures of the tank
and the replacement water). Be sure to mix in chlorine and
chloramine remover in the new water before you add it to
the tank.
While draining the 50% of the tank with a siphon, use it
to vacuum any unplanted parts of your tank. If you have
no plants or very few plants, then only vacuum 1/2 of the
tank this time. Vacuum clear down through the gravel right
to the bottom glass.
Next week, drain out 20% of the tank, don't touch the
other half of the gravel, and of course test the water
first.
Next week drain out 50% of the tank, and this time
vacuum the other half of the gravel.
Next week drain out 10% and lightly vacuum the first half
of the gravel.
Next week drain out 10% of the tank and lightly vacuum
the second half of the gravel.
Then each week after drain 10% and continue with the
vacuuming of the gravel on schedule. If you add more
plants, then cut back on the gravel cleaning and divide
the tank into quarters or thirds, and only vacuum a section
at a time.

This should get the tank back to normal, and establish
a routine for you and the fish. Feed lightly. A fish's'
stomach is only about as big as one of its eyes!
Feeding twice a day, only a little, so that non hits
the bottom of the tank or better yet so that all that is
fed, is eaten, is all you need to add.

Hope this helps...
Frank


-->>> The Confidence of Amateurs, is the Envy of Professionals <<<--

Thank you Frank

I just re did the tank this morning (it is just 10g). The test kit will come next week.
My tap water is:
Ph 7.2
Kh 3
Gh 2
I must have fishes in tank?

BTW all my plants are doing great just the fish are death
:#(